Jim, I dont know if you have mentioned it yet but will Poldiac be numbered?
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
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Can we see the brass one 
What is the resistance difference between the ss and brass?
How much harder do you think it would hit?
Tony
What is the resistance difference between the ss and brass?
How much harder do you think it would hit?
Tony
For me Tony is esthetical the point !
Let say I buy a new car that when I do ecodrive then I will make 100 klm with 4.5 liters
Can anyone drive with the ideal conditions?
If you will see a nice chick and you let your foot from pental you missed some micro quantities!
Did you ever think this way?
So if we want to speak about contactivity we have to be sure that we have ideal/perfect setup!
and the difference will be some more draws maybe?
Let say I buy a new car that when I do ecodrive then I will make 100 klm with 4.5 liters
Can anyone drive with the ideal conditions?
If you will see a nice chick and you let your foot from pental you missed some micro quantities!
Did you ever think this way?
So if we want to speak about contactivity we have to be sure that we have ideal/perfect setup!
and the difference will be some more draws maybe?
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Sorry about asking so many questions but I can't help myself! If you order the top piece in brass, will the 510 connector still be SS or will it be brass as well?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Brass has a IACS rating of 28% where as SS has a IACS rating of between 3 and 15% depending on its composition, but it's unclear how much series resistance is actually added from the material used in the full ground connection (ie the body of the mod). Here are the results of a very elementary test I just ran. In trial #1, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but SS components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In trial #2, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but brass components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In both trials, I used the same battery and atomizer.
Trial #1 (SS)
Unloaded voltage: 4.12v
Voltage under load: 3.21v
Voltage drop: 0.91
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Trial #2 (brass)
Unloaded voltage: 4.03v
Voltage under load: 3.42v
Voltage drop: 0.61v
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Considering that the resistance of the meter I was using was 0.02Ω, it's safe to assume that 0.081v of the total voltage drop in both trials was a result of added series resistance from the meter. If we extrapolate accordingly, then we can assume that the voltage under load in the 2 trials would have actually been closer to 3.29v and 3.50v respectively.
So as you can tell, the brass is undoubtedly a measurably better conductor than SS in both theory and practice, meaning that an all brass mod will perform more efficiently.
The next set of tests I'm going to do will be comparing the loaded voltage in trials where I use the same mod, atomizer, and battery, but with different contacts, the point of which will be to start to get an idea of whether the total ground contact (the mod itself) is the root of the performance increase, or rather if the material that the contacts themselves is made of is what's responsible. On a final note, I should be getting my new Fluke 114 multimeter in the mail sometime next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start recording some more accurate tests where I won't need to factor in any additional series resistance as a result of my meter! I really hope at least one person found this helpful or informative, b/c I know I did
Trial #1 (SS)
Unloaded voltage: 4.12v
Voltage under load: 3.21v
Voltage drop: 0.91
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Trial #2 (brass)
Unloaded voltage: 4.03v
Voltage under load: 3.42v
Voltage drop: 0.61v
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Considering that the resistance of the meter I was using was 0.02Ω, it's safe to assume that 0.081v of the total voltage drop in both trials was a result of added series resistance from the meter. If we extrapolate accordingly, then we can assume that the voltage under load in the 2 trials would have actually been closer to 3.29v and 3.50v respectively.
So as you can tell, the brass is undoubtedly a measurably better conductor than SS in both theory and practice, meaning that an all brass mod will perform more efficiently.
The next set of tests I'm going to do will be comparing the loaded voltage in trials where I use the same mod, atomizer, and battery, but with different contacts, the point of which will be to start to get an idea of whether the total ground contact (the mod itself) is the root of the performance increase, or rather if the material that the contacts themselves is made of is what's responsible. On a final note, I should be getting my new Fluke 114 multimeter in the mail sometime next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start recording some more accurate tests where I won't need to factor in any additional series resistance as a result of my meter! I really hope at least one person found this helpful or informative, b/c I know I did
Can we see the brass one
What is the resistance difference between the ss and brass?
How much harder do you think it would hit?
Tony
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Brass has a IACS rating of 28% where as SS has a IACS rating of between 3 and 15% depending on its composition, but it's unclear how much series resistance is actually added from the material used in the full ground connection (ie the body of the mod). Here are the results of a very elementary test I just ran. In trial #1, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but SS components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In trial #2, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but brass components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In both trials, I used the same battery and atomizer.
Trial #1 (SS)
Unloaded voltage: 4.12v
Voltage under load: 3.21v
Voltage drop: 0.91
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.2Ω
Trial #2 (brass)
Unloaded voltage: 4.03v
Voltage under load: 3.42v
Voltage drop: 0.61v
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.2Ω
So as you can tell, the brass makes a pretty huge difference in terms of how efficiently the entire setup will perform! Next test I do will be comparing the loaded voltage from using both SS and brass contacts in an all brass mod, and then the results of using ss and brass contacts in an all ss mod, so we can start to get an idea whether the total ground contact (the mod itself) is making a measurably significant difference. I should be getting my new Fluke 114 multimeter in the mail sometime next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start recording some more accurate tests! Hope at least one person found this helpful or informative
Been thinking about this issue a lot Rick. I've been playing with the idea of an ultimate mod tube build and researching materials. As you say the actual tube itself may have a minimal effect due to it's high mass and relatively low resistance, which is great because silver would be expensive for this amount of metal, copper would tarnish and smell as a result and a copper silver alloy which would have great conductivity and could be tarnish and wear resistant would be a pain to organize. So the best place to throw the high conductivity parts may be the contacts, switch contacts, positive pole and clamping nuts. As all contacts benefit from regular cleaning and polishing, copper or silver copper alloy would seem an ideal chioice for the contacts and switch with a silver/nickel or other low toxicity hardish silver alloy( or sterling silver)for the positive pole and nuts. Silver is far from toxic and actually has antibiotic and antibacterial healing properties. Maybe for a minimal amount of extra outlay we could achieve a substantial gain in performance.
I will look forward to your SS tube with brass contacts results with great interest.
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Brass has a IACS rating of 28% where as SS has a IACS rating of between 3 and 15% depending on its composition, but it's unclear how much series resistance is actually added from the material used in the full ground connection (ie the body of the mod). Here are the results of a very elementary test I just ran. In trial #1, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but SS components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In trial #2, I used a GGTS that contained nothing but brass components (both the body of the mod and all of the contacts). In both trials, I used the same battery and atomizer.
Trial #1 (SS)
Unloaded voltage: 4.12v
Voltage under load: 3.21v
Voltage drop: 0.91
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Trial #2 (brass)
Unloaded voltage: 4.03v
Voltage under load: 3.42v
Voltage drop: 0.61v
Resistance of atomizer: 0.57Ω
Resistance of atomizer+load meter: 0.59Ω
Resistance of load meter: 0.02Ω
Considering that the resistance of the meter I was using was 0.02Ω, it's safe to assume that 0.081v of the total voltage drop in both trials was a result of added series resistance from the meter. If we extrapolate accordingly, then we can assume that the voltage under load in the 2 trials would have actually been closer to 3.29v and 3.50v respectively.
So as you can tell, the brass is undoubtedly a measurably better conductor than SS in both theory and practice, meaning that an all brass mod will perform more efficiently.
The next set of tests I'm going to do will be comparing the loaded voltage in trials where I use the same mod, atomizer, and battery, but with different contacts, the point of which will be to start to get an idea of whether the total ground contact (the mod itself) is the root of the performance increase, or rather if the material that the contacts themselves is made of is what's responsible. On a final note, I should be getting my new Fluke 114 multimeter in the mail sometime next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start recording some more accurate tests where I won't need to factor in any additional series resistance as a result of my meter! I really hope at least one person found this helpful or informative, b/c I know I did
A very interesting read. And absolutely very good to know.
Good to know that I'm not the only one out there wracking my brain trying to source the absolute best balanced combination of efficient conductivity, practicality, and cost efficiency! Hit me up on skype (if you use it), I'd love to go a lot deeper into the topic with you, but this probably isn't the best venue to do so. My username on there is rick.wechslerBeen thinking about this issue a lot Rick. I've been playing with the idea of an ultimate mod tube build and researching materials. As you say the actual tube itself may have a minimal effect due to it's high mass and relatively low resistance, which is great because silver would be expensive for this amount of metal, copper would tarnish and smell as a result and a copper silver alloy which would have great conductivity and could be tarnish and wear resistant would be a pain to organize. So the best place to throw the high conductivity parts may be the contacts, switch contacts, positive pole and clamping nuts. As all contacts benefit from regular cleaning and polishing, copper or silver copper alloy would seem an ideal chioice for the contacts and switch with a silver/nickel or other low toxicity hardish silver alloy( or sterling silver)for the positive pole and nuts. Silver is far from toxic and actually has antibiotic and antibacterial healing properties. Maybe for a minimal amount of extra outlay we could achieve a substantial gain in performance.
I will look forward to your SS tube with brass contacts results with great interest.
Thank you, but don't read too much into it! It's possible that any number of lurking variables could be at play here, so until we can devise a much more controlled environment in which to conduct these comparisons, there's no way for us to measure exactly how accurate the results are, not to mention that my understanding of the nuances of DC circuitry is extremely finite! But I'm trying to learn as much as I can on the subject so I can hopefully start turning up some substantial answers to open ended questions that have existed in the vaping community for quite some time now.A very interesting read. And absolutely very good to know.
Very nice RW ! most excellent comparison test with valuable information. I would love to see the same like test with a Aluminum and a Nickel Mod. I have heard that the Aluminum hits harder than any other metal used. Far as the least resistance for electrical flow.
I do know that changing the SS switch fire button to the Brass one , made a huge difference in my SS-GGTS. Like misfiring , carbon build up , heat exchange , voltage drop......ect. The Brass contact switch is much more efficient in my observation.
And I did find your resistance testing very helpful or informative ! Thank You !
I do know that changing the SS switch fire button to the Brass one , made a huge difference in my SS-GGTS. Like misfiring , carbon build up , heat exchange , voltage drop......ect. The Brass contact switch is much more efficient in my observation.
And I did find your resistance testing very helpful or informative ! Thank You !
Very nice RW ! most excellent comparison test with valuable information. I would love to see the same like test with a Aluminum and a Nickel Mod. I have heard that the Aluminum hits harder than any other metal used. Far as the least resistance for electrical flow.
I do know that changing the SS switch fire button to the Brass one , made a huge difference in my SS-GGTS. Like misfiring , carbon build up , heat exchange , voltage drop......ect. The Brass contact switch is much more efficient in my observation.
And I did find your resistance testing very helpful or informative ! Thank You !
Thank you! Ahh, looks like you've been lWell as it so happens, I actually do also have an aluminum Rev2 GGTS! And while some of the the Rev2s came with aluminum contacts and others with brass, about 6 months ago I actually had 6 sets of custom GGTS positive posts and battery posts made out of aluminum! So I will be able to do an entire round of testing with that as well I suppose! The only aluminum part I don't think I have is an aluminum button post, but watcha gonna do?
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For me Tony is esthetical the point !
Let say I but a new carthat when I do ecodrive then I will make 100 klm with 4.5 liters
Can anyone drive with the ideal conditions?
If you will see a nice chick and you let your foot from pental you missed some micro quantities!
Did you ever think this way?
So if we want to speak about contactivity we have to be sure that we have ideal/perfect setup!
and the difference will be some more draws maybe?
Thanks. I will go for the looks.
. Can't wait o order. Tony
I adore brass even if i'm fully aware it's a nightmare to keep it polished and clean. But i also find a 100% brass mod a little too "heavy" to the eyes. My sweet spot is a two-tone mod (80% brass 20%SS).
I also really enjoy two-finish mods, say 80% satin 20% polished, where the polished parts (caps, rings) do not come in contact with my greasy fingers
I also really enjoy two-finish mods, say 80% satin 20% polished, where the polished parts (caps, rings) do not come in contact with my greasy fingers
OK
A day after tomorrow I will start button contacts production!
So tell me what material you want me to make them with?
Brass?
Brass silver plated?
Coper silver plated?
alouminium
alouminium silver plated?
A day after tomorrow I will start button contacts production!
So tell me what material you want me to make them with?
Brass?
Brass silver plated?
Coper silver plated?
alouminium
alouminium silver plated?
Sweeet! That's good to know, about the DID20 lining up. I can't believe I keep forgetting to try lol.
Good luck with your wick experiments!! (be sure to keep a journal).
Been thinking about this issue a lot Rick. I've been playing with the idea of an ultimate mod tube build and researching materials. As you say the actual tube itself may have a minimal effect due to it's high mass and relatively low resistance, which is great because silver would be expensive for this amount of metal, copper would tarnish and smell as a result and a copper silver alloy which would have great conductivity and could be tarnish and wear resistant would be a pain to organize. So the best place to throw the high conductivity parts may be the contacts, switch contacts, positive pole and clamping nuts. As all contacts benefit from regular cleaning and polishing, copper or silver copper alloy would seem an ideal chioice for the contacts and switch with a silver/nickel or other low toxicity hardish silver alloy( or sterling silver)for the positive pole and nuts. Silver is far from toxic and actually has antibiotic and antibacterial healing properties. Maybe for a minimal amount of extra outlay we could achieve a substantial gain in performance.
I will look forward to your SS tube with brass contacts results with great interest.
+1on this. I was about to post something similar. I was curious how the SS GGTS would proform with brass contacts.
I have to wait to order mine, (Christmas for the kids comes first now that my Geminii is on it's way lol).
But, when I order, I hope to receive Silver Polish over .... probably Brass, because brass is sturdier than copper, but if the copper is just as sturdy, then make it copper.
How's that for a clear as mud response. lol
As far as button contacts go, my preference would be for whichever surface provides low maintenance and durability along with decent conductivity. I've heard that Rhodium (platinum) provides both features but I don't know if that's doable. The fact that you'd even ask for the input of your customers is why your customers are so loyal.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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