My O ring broke for the top cap so I went to Home Depot and bought 11/16 OD x 9/16 ID x 1/16". It's probably a tad smaller than the stock O ring but it worked out for me because taking the top cap off was a huge pain. I imagine they are the same size for the tank.
New Hybrid: The Noble1 from Vapor Craze
- Thread starter sofauxboho
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
My O ring broke for the top cap so I went to Home Depot and bought 11/16 OD x 9/16 ID x 1/16". It's probably a tad smaller than the stock O ring but it worked out for me because taking the top cap off was a huge pain. I imagine they are the same size for the tank.
Does anybody have any tips on keeping this thing wicked? I have 45mm of 400 mesh that was wrapped around a paperclip pretty tight but not snug when inserted in the wick hole. I have a 4 wrap of of the wider ribbon that measures out to 1.0-1.1 ohms. vaping on a fully charged battery is pretty harsh. The first vape is sometimes good but I can hear the wick kind of lose steam after a couple good vapes.
I have to use 30mm of 500, with a larger hole down the center for it to wick well, but still have to tip it every couple of hits.
Here lately I seem to have transitioned almost completely over to Nextel ceramic. Right now my Nobel is wicked with a doubled up piece of XC-132 and 30 gauge Kanthal.
No wicking problems at all. It'll wicks better than anything I've used before. No long need to tilt or even have the wick side toward the floor.
No wicking problems at all. It'll wicks better than anything I've used before. No long need to tilt or even have the wick side toward the floor.
Does anyone using the noble experience leaking juice onto the batt from the bottom of the atomiser? Is this normal. I get about 1 drop or two of it settling on the batt.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
I did when I first started using it. The key seems to be a matter of getting the compression correct on the positive post. You want it tight enough to clamp everything into place but not so tight that it squashes the top o-ring. Basically it's the seal between the top deck, top o-ring and nut that seals out the juice.
Also... I replaced the heat shrink on my positive post. It's a little thicker than the original (but not thick enough to actually create a seal) and I have it far enough down the post to make a seal with the bottom o-ring. I don't imagine that it's really contributing to the good seal but I figured that I'd mention it being that I had the leak before I did it and it hasn't leaked since.
Another thing... I was also getting a slight leak around the tank. I replaced the tank o-rings with slightly larger ones and fixed that too.
Also... I replaced the heat shrink on my positive post. It's a little thicker than the original (but not thick enough to actually create a seal) and I have it far enough down the post to make a seal with the bottom o-ring. I don't imagine that it's really contributing to the good seal but I figured that I'd mention it being that I had the leak before I did it and it hasn't leaked since.
Another thing... I was also getting a slight leak around the tank. I replaced the tank o-rings with slightly larger ones and fixed that too.
Any tips on removing the tank? I would like to clean it but am afraid of breaking the glass.
I've removed it a few times for cleaning and hadn't any issues. I don't recall having to do any special.
If it's stuck to the point that excessive force is required... Try filling the tank with warm soapy water and submerge the tank itself in warm soapy water. Also, get the tank to rotate as you pull it off, as opposed to trying to pull it straight off.
If it's stuck to the point that excessive force is required... Try filling the tank with warm soapy water and submerge the tank itself in warm soapy water. Also, get the tank to rotate as you pull it off, as opposed to trying to pull it straight off.
Last edited:
Looks good. I like the flat black. What kind of paint did you use?
anybody know if these are safe to use in the noble
Amazon.com: (2 Pieces) IMR 18350 800mah 3.7v High Drain Li-mn Rechargeable Battery with Button Top: Electronics
Amazon.com: (2 Pieces) IMR 18350 800mah 3.7v High Drain Li-mn Rechargeable Battery with Button Top: Electronics
If they're not, I'm in trouble... I've got 4 of them. Actually, they are surprisingly good batteries. I don't have the AW's to compare them to as far as performance, but in terms of safety, I've had no issues, nor have I heard of anyone else having issues.
Speaking of batteries in the Noble 1, I do have one major safety issue... The lack of an insulator on the switch. If the heat shrink cracks or peals on the battery it'll bypass the switch and short out. My solution was to grind down a nylon washer and glued it to the top of the switch.
I'll post a pic once I get home.
efest are decent 18350's you should have no problems w/the noble 1. Just don't go below 1 ohms when building your coil.
I also use an o-ring underneath the battery similar to jasl90
Doh! Forgot to add a pic last night. Here it is...
An o-ring is certainly better than nothing but bear in mind that your sealing off the vent hole when you do it... If a battery vents, it will be from the top (positive end).
As for sub-ohm builds... I regularly use these batteries with 0.8 & 0.9 ohm builds and never experienced any sort of heat rise from the battery.
An o-ring is certainly better than nothing but bear in mind that your sealing off the vent hole when you do it... If a battery vents, it will be from the top (positive end).
As for sub-ohm builds... I regularly use these batteries with 0.8 & 0.9 ohm builds and never experienced any sort of heat rise from the battery.
- Status
