New Hybrid: The Noble1 from Vapor Craze

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Calikev

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I thinking once I get the sheet of high temperature rubber plastic in that I can make a gasket to go under the top plastic washer that sits just bellow the spring. I believe the sheet I got is 1/16th of an inch thick.

I figure I'll cut a small circle out of the sheet around the same size as the plastic washer, then poke a super super small hole in the middle with a pin. Then force the positive post through the new gasket and tighten everything down so the plastic washer that comes with the nobel will squish the newly made gasket down. The super small hole in gasket will be tightly stretched around the positive pin to make a liquid tight seal on it, then the washer will squish it all down against the deck.

The issue with the top plastic washer that comes with it is that the inside diameter of it doesn't make a seal around the positive post... so no matter how tight you get the washer to the top deck, it will still have room in-between the post and inside of washer for juice to crawl down the possive post and onto the battery.

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This sounds like a great fix. Thanks! What do you think of using gasket makers in a tube? I have some high temp gasket maker in a tube that I use for rebuilding the heads on cars. The small dab being used and the area the gasket would form shouldn't make using this harmful I don't think but ??? Not sure. This stuff isn't for consuming but the tank is isolated anyway. I may try this but i want some opinions. Basically it's like a glue but forms a gasket of any shape and size once applied and after it dries. A dab would positively seal this up and there would absolutely be no leaks but is it safe to use on a device like our mods in this area is the question
 

jasl90

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This sounds like a great fix. Thanks! What do you think of using gasket makers in a tube? I have some high temp gasket maker in a tube that I use for rebuilding the heads on cars. The small dab being used and the area the gasket would form shouldn't make using this harmful I don't think but ??? Not sure. This stuff isn't for consuming but the tank is isolated anyway. I may try this but i want some opinions. Basically it's like a glue but forms a gasket of any shape and size once applied and after it dries. A dab would positively seal this up and there would absolutely be no leaks but is it safe to use on a device like our mods in this area is the question

No clue. May be worth checking MSDS on it. I'd also squirt some out on a sheet of paper and let it dry. Once it's fully dried or cured, give it a sniff & taste test.
 

Calikev

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I will add pics when I get home but..... I WAS ABLE TO STOP ALL LEAKING LASTNIGHT!!!!

I had some thick stretchable rubbery type tape that I cut into very small rounds and then used my multimeter lead to poke a very very small hole in a few pieces. I then disassembled the tank. The brass rod that runs through the tank had heat shrink on it that stopped before the o ring and nut at the bottom. THIS WAS THE 2nd BIGGEST CAUSE of the leaks. I added 2 tiny rounds of the tape to this area between where the heatshrink stopped and there was bare brass rod showing. The tape will slide over the rod in a tiny hole you cut NOT wrap the rod.

I then filed the brass rod end to make it flat so the contact would be better and not ruin the battery top and put the same o ring back on, but I did torque it down tighter and make the o ring and nut reach to heat shrink by using the 2 tiny tape rounds I had already installed. The brass rod protrudes approx 1 - 1.5 mm from the base of the brass nut and it's perfectly flat so there will be no issues with me ruining my batteries from this constant contact between the brass rod and the battery head.

Now to remedy the MAJOR CAUSE OF THE LEAKING ---How the juice is getting to the base of the rod.

Install the brass rod back into the tank. I took "1" more tiny round of this stretchy, rubbery tape I had and poked the same small hole in it with the lead from my multimeter. I installed this tape round on the deck of the tank 1ST. Then re-installed the plastic o ring that came with the Noble on top of it. I DID NOT, put any tape or anything between the top of the plastic o ring and the spring or the bottom nut. I torqued the bottom nut on and didn't go too aggressive with this. The tape is very tacky and thick so there is no need to over torque the bottom.

THE GOOD NEWS is you should now have the leaks cured and the rattle from the spacing between the brass rod and the battery will be gone too. (Again, this is the reason the rod must be flattened with a file)

The spring and top nut and everything else went back on as usual. I vaped like a madman the rest of the night and have had absolutely "0" drips and also feel very confident that this has fixed the problem.

Good Luck to everyone with these same issues with their Noble 1. This worked very, very well for me...give it a try
 
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Calikev

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BTW...if I have even 1 drop of a leak in the future I will use the gasket maker glue type stuff in a tube I discussed earlier, but will ONLY use it in the brass nut on the BOTTOM of the tank. I will lay the brass nut flat and drop a dab of the gasket maker in the nut, wait a minute for the gasket to begin to form and then screw the nut in place so the gasket forms after the nut is already installed. It will only take a mm or 2 of gasket maker to do this so it should be no issue. The bottom nut never comes in contact with juice anyway. I wouldn't use this on the top nut because it is too close to the wick and gets juice on it that does get vaped. The bottom SHOULD be of no concern. PLAY AT YOUR OWN RISK THOUGH These are just my humble suggestions/opinions of what has worked for me and/or what I will/may do.
 
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LKSkang

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Hey guys, I just tried something new and it's worked so far overnight.

I just looked at what I had to work with on me last night and figured I'd give it a try.

1) Cleaned up my my unit, took out the centre post and dried everything.

2) Cut out the tip of an old ejuice bottle I had (I attached a picture of the one I used, it's the pointier kind but not a needle-nose).

3) Took the wider part of the opening and inserted it on the bottom of the post.

4) Went up as high as where the shrink-wrap let me at the bottom.

5) Inserted the centre post from the top (and because the pointier end is facing down it went through but didn't come out the other end).

6) Put it all together and over 12 hours with no drops.

I'm not sure if what I did ACTUALLY fixed it or me taking it apart again and putting it back together this time was just luck. Either way, no leaks.

I'll try to post a picture later of the post but right now, I'm enjoying my non-leaking noble 1 too much to take a chance and take it apart :)

here's the pic of the tip I used though and I only cut like 1mm - 1.5mm off the top.

photo.jpg
 

LKSkang

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that's good... there are many fixes, I'm just lazy and clumsy so I prefer the easier way and I can re-do easily if need be. I was trying the teflon tape and man was it every hard to get the right size and for it to even stick :facepalm:

I figured the tip is made of silicon and it's far away enough from the wick anyway so it shouldn't have any health concerns about vaping something harmful... I'd might as well go back to analogs then lol
 

Gummy Bare

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I got my o-rings in the mail, used two different sizes and completely removed the plastic washer and bottom o-ring that came with the mod.... so far it's dry as a bone.

In gonna test it for a few days to a week and if all goes well I'll post what I did and the sizes of o-rings needed.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
 

CaliJeff

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Funny how all of our fixes cost less than a dollar and Vapor Crazy is to stupid to figure it out.... or so damn cheap they don't wanna send their product with a few pennies of extra parts so it works right.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

All that is really needed is a small step up on the deck around the positive post. 5 minutes of code for the CNC.
 

Gummy Bare

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Okay, here's what I did and this thing is working perfect with no a single leak whatsoever... I compleatly threw out the top plastic wash and button o-ring that came with the Nobel.

I used two different size o-rings that I ordered from eBay. I will attach pictures of the paperwork I received with the o-rings that state the sizes used, and the company I bought them from. Both o-rings are high temperature o-rings commonly used in paint ball guns and scuba diving equipment.

I'm sorry I don't have pictures of me putting the o-rings on during the modding process, but I do have pictures of the finally product. I used the same process for the top of the positive post as I did for the bottom of the post. On each end of the post, I used two different sized o-rings (the sizes are in the picture of the paperwork attached to this post).

I first places one of the smaller o-rings around the brass post... this o-ring is a bit hard to get on because it has to stretch to get around the post... but this is exactly what we want because it makes a liquid tight seal. The other perfect thing about the o-ring is It's diameter once stretched is the same size has the hole that travels up the center of the tank (the hole the brass screw/post slides into. Then I place the larger of the o-ring onto the post and screw it down with the nut. This o-ring further helps is making a juice tight seal, and also keeps the nut from touching the aluminum body which would cause a hard short if it didn't.

For the top of the post, I did the exact same thing... put the super small o-ring on first, then the bigger one second. Then I tightened down the nuts into the o-ring. in the tightening process, the smaller o-ring that went on first gets squished and jammed around the post, and also into the center hole that travels up the center of the tank area. This makes a perfect seal around the post and the center tube. The bigger o-rings keep everything nice and pretty and insure the brass post doesn't come into contact with the aluminum of the mod in anyway, Plus since the bigger one is also an amazing tight fit around the brass post it makes a second barrier to keep juice from leaking.

Here's some pics, now your only going to see the top bigger of the two o-rings in the pictures because the smaller on that went in first in squished perfectly around the brass post and in-between the center shaft/tube the brass post slides into:

use5ytus.jpg

banasa7e.jpg

suna7yhu.jpg

qavyqamy.jpg


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Gummy Bare

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So, It's been a week of solid vaping from my noble 1 with the leak fix I posted and the think is still bone dry. Not a single drop of juice.

All I did was throw out the o-ring and plastic washer that came with the mod, and added two new o-rings to the top and bottom. Works like a charm. I posted pictures of the exact same size o-rings needed for the fix.

You can order them from eBay for cheap... and you end up getting a bag of 50 of them. They are handy to have around since I've also used them to fix leaks in rsst's and other atty/mod fixes here and there. You can never have enough o-rings when dealing with mods and things that hold liquid.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
 
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