New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox

[IXIShogunR1]

@ephilbe
@cigatron
@hashtag
@DCBD
@blivey
I may have experienced the reason Kangers is making "accuracy" changes for the V2. I'll preface this by stating I have no way of quantifying this or measuring what happened.

I purchased my first dripper yesterday, Mutation x V3, Dual 28g coils at .3 ohms. Runs fine on my mech. I decided to try it on the Kbox and see how it performed at different watts. Cranked it up to 50 watts and had a couple clouds, bad flavor. Unimpressed, I put the subtank back on and dialed it back down to 30watts where I normally Vape with the subtank RBA . Hit the fire button and it sounded like my tank was at way higher watts than 30 and I got horrible burnt flavor, much like trying to run this tank at say 50 watts. It's like it was internally stuck at 50 watts. Turned it back down to 10 watts, vaped, tasted normal, and the same process at 20 and 30 watts, now it's fine.

I could probably replicate the problem if need be but I don't want to damage any of my equipment.

Any reasonable explanations?

the only thing i can come up with after playing around to try and see what might of happened there is,
it was reading your ohms too high so the voltage went up
.7ohm at 30 watts 4.58 volts
.5ohm coil at 4.58 volts is 42 watts

not saying this is what happened exactly, but its what i saw as a possibility
when i just unscrewed my tank to do some test for you and put it back on it showed at .7 ohms, after i fired the button a couple times it went back to .5 ohms
the accuracy issues might be more with the ohm meter

 

[DanJiblets]

the only thing i can come up with after playing around to try and see what might of happened there is,
it was reading your ohms too high so the voltage went up
.7ohm at 30 watts 4.58 volts
.5ohm coil at 4.58 volts is 42 watts

not saying this is what happened exactly, but its what i saw as a possibility
when i just unscrewed my tank to do some test for you and put it back on it showed at .7 ohms, after i fired the button a couple times it went back to .5 ohms
the accuracy issues might be more with the ohm meter

This is what my mvp 3 is doing with my rba. It's frustrating. The rba is fine on my other mods, and the mvp reads my other tanks fine.

 

[IXIShogunR1]

This is what my mvp 3 is doing with my rba. It's frustrating. The rba is fine on my other mods, and the mvp reads my other tanks fine.

do you only have the one RBA? whats the build at?
really odd when it does it for one thing, but not the others

 

[SUPER K]

Did you verify your Stmini build res after you screwed it back on? If it had a temporary bad connection the mod would see a higher res and throw more voltage at your atty than normal to achieve 30w.

Could be your mutx pushed the kbox pos pin down further than your STm does and took a little time to return to it's normal height to reestablish good connection.

Fwiw, I always make sure my mods read the correct build res after swapping attys. FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!!

STM read .5 which is what it read before installing the mutation. I had to slowly back out the positive pin on the mutation to make contact, so I don't think it moved the Subox connection at all.

 

[DanJiblets]

do you only have the one RBA? whats the build at?
really odd when it does it for one thing, but not the others

I have another rba but not in use currently. It reads at .6. I think it is something with the connection somehow with my mvp. The occs read perfect in it, and the rba reads fine in the evic-VT down to an istick 30. The ohms jump from .6 up to 2 in the mvp. It was still working then I got the worst dry hit of my life yesterday. Because it read at say 2 ohms so I cooked the crap out of it. It's gotta be something with the connection, just don't see why everything else is okay.

 

[blivey]

@ephilbe
@cigatron
@hashtag
@DCBD
@blivey
I may have experienced the reason Kangers is making "accuracy" changes for the V2. I'll preface this by stating I have no way of quantifying this or measuring what happened.

I purchased my first dripper yesterday, Mutation x V3, Dual 28g coils at .3 ohms. Runs fine on my mech. I decided to try it on the Kbox and see how it performed at different watts. Cranked it up to 50 watts and had a couple clouds, bad flavor. Unimpressed, I put the subtank back on and dialed it back down to 30watts where I normally Vape with the subtank RBA . Hit the fire button and it sounded like my tank was at way higher watts than 30 and I got horrible burnt flavor, much like trying to run this tank at say 50 watts. It's like it was internally stuck at 50 watts. Turned it back down to 10 watts, vaped, tasted normal, and the same process at 20 and 30 watts, now it's fine.

I could probably replicate the problem if need be but I don't want to damage any of my equipment.

Any reasonable explanations?

I will keep an eye out for instances of anyone else having this problem. Do you have the white kit? I know there have been a few reports of "malfunctions".

 

[IXIShogunR1]

I have another rba but not in use currently. It reads at .6. I think it is something with the connection somehow with my mvp. The occs read perfect in it, and the rba reads fine in the evic-VT down to an istick 30. The ohms jump from .6 up to 2 in the mvp. It was still working then I got the worst dry hit of my life yesterday. Because it read at say 2 ohms so I cooked the crap out of it. It's gotta be something with the connection, just don't see why everything else is okay.

yeah sounds like its just not working right with that mod.... still odd

 

[DCBD]

Thanks for the heads up, unfortunately the silicone makes anything a bear to get from my pockets. I don't mind my Kbox gaining character. With as many times as it comes in and out of my pocket daily I consider the wear normal.

At that price I may try one just for grins, it'd be nice to see a cover for the USB to keep trash out.

I understand the problem silicone creates with pockets. As for trying one out, this cover is designed to be left on, all the time. It has a cutout for the tank and the USB port for charging, making it more of an iStick type of device. If you prefer external battery recharging, this cover may cause more trouble than it's worth.

 

[blivey]

I understand the problem silicone creates with pockets. As for trying one out, this cover is designed to be left on, all the time. It has a cutout for the tank and the USB port for charging, making it more of an iStick type of device. If you prefer external battery recharging, this cover may cause more trouble than it's worth.

Link?

 

[DCBD]

Link?

It's one page back, this post.

 

[blivey]

It's one page back, this post.

Thanks!

 

[ephilbe]

When you swapped out the buttons in your two kbox minis did you notice how the fixed pos pin was held in place? Silicone grommet? Foam pad? Or maybe a hard stop? Back in the days of ego twists and evod spinners we would gently rock the pos pin back up to the correct height with a small screwdriver to fix "dropped pos pin" probs.

Unfortunately, no. I was in such a big yank to see the finished product that I didn't spend nearly enough time checking out the module construction. Lol

But it's interesting that you ask, because that's exactly what crossed my mind last night after going to bed. I'm going to open her back up and have a much closer looksie. Will post some close ups.

 

[hashtag]

@ephilbe
@cigatron
@hashtag
@DCBD
@blivey
I may have experienced the reason Kangers is making "accuracy" changes for the V2. I'll preface this by stating I have no way of quantifying this or measuring what happened.

I purchased my first dripper yesterday, Mutation x V3, Dual 28g coils at .3 ohms. Runs fine on my mech. I decided to try it on the Kbox and see how it performed at different watts. Cranked it up to 50 watts and had a couple clouds, bad flavor. Unimpressed, I put the subtank back on and dialed it back down to 30watts where I normally Vape with the subtank RBA . Hit the fire button and it sounded like my tank was at way higher watts than 30 and I got horrible burnt flavor, much like trying to run this tank at say 50 watts. It's like it was internally stuck at 50 watts. Turned it back down to 10 watts, vaped, tasted normal, and the same process at 20 and 30 watts, now it's fine.

I could probably replicate the problem if need be but I don't want to damage any of my equipment.

Any reasonable explanations?

I'll play with mine today and see if I get anything like this. I have a mutation x v3 so I can try to do the same setup and see what happens.

 

[ephilbe]

So, disassembly starts with removing these two phillips head screws. One of them will be covered by a Kanger trademark sticker. I found that a [HASHTAG]#0x25[/HASHTAG] jewelers screwdriver fit well.

 

[ephilbe]

Next, using your index fingers, pull up gently at each end using the battery contacts while holding mod body with thumbs.

 

[ephilbe]

You'll want to mind the little cap that holds the batt contact spring in. If you're not careful, it'll take flight. Lol

 

[ephilbe]

 

[ephilbe]

The heart of it all...

 

[ephilbe]

Looks as though the 510 center pin is insulated by the white rubber stuff. And it would appear mine is pushed down a bit. Would def account for some connection issues.

 

[cindycated]

Yikes, that's "fixed" alright...guess I'll be waiting a tad longer...
Not liking that white grommet business...