Lemme know if you decide to attempt. It's pretty easy, the only caveat being you loose the warranty sticker. I was willing to forego it. The negative batt contact spring/disc will take flight if you're not careful. Don't ask me how I know. Lol
New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox
- Thread starter blivey
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So sorry to keep dragging out this
item. 
But last one:Do you have to set all those parameters manually, or does it have an "auto" mode?
Thanks ephilbe, that's very kind of you! There's a good chance you'll be hearing from me when the second versions come out and I feel more comfortable about taking these apart.
I'm really surprised at how much I like these units. There's something to be said for dead simple mods. I initially bought them for travel/work due to ease of use and price point, but I find that I'm using them a LOT.
Mine is manually set for both charge mAh and voltage.So sorry to keep dragging out this
Do you have to set all those parameters manually, or does it have an "auto" mode?
I am dying for a silver-colored version! Stainless steel or not. The color of the original kbox would actually be perfect to me, so it's not all fingerprinty.
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Anyone having any problems with the white Kbox Mini?
So I ordered the black and white Subox Mini Kits from MVD back on 6/12/15, they advertised back then 5 day shipping.
The next day I went to a vape convention in Pittsburgh and ended up buying a Black Subox kit and my friend got a white one.
They both worked fine up till a few days ago the white one stopped working. He is new to vaping so he gave it to me to look at.
Anyways I got it down to the Base won't work. The device itself works fine.
Put it on a ohm meter, tried different coils and still got nothing.
The only thing I can tell is the air control ring don't click anymore when you spin it.
The center pin slides up and down smooth and I don't see any splits or cracks in the insulator around the pin.
I should of got the two I ordered from MVD by Tuesday (6/22) but instead I got this email,
Sorry about the delay.
Since the white kanger subox mini may have some bugs,the kangertech shortage the supply,
and the expected shipping date for the modified version will be 28th,June.
We now have the black version in stock,
Will you want to change the color or waits for the white version?
MyVapeDeal - Vape Quality at The Best Price
That is copied and Pasted from the email.
So I was wondering if there was something going on with the White Kbox Mini's or is that statement in the email, "may have some bugs", just an excuse from them for selling stuff they don't have in stock ?
So I ordered the black and white Subox Mini Kits from MVD back on 6/12/15, they advertised back then 5 day shipping.
The next day I went to a vape convention in Pittsburgh and ended up buying a Black Subox kit and my friend got a white one.
They both worked fine up till a few days ago the white one stopped working. He is new to vaping so he gave it to me to look at.
Anyways I got it down to the Base won't work. The device itself works fine.
Put it on a ohm meter, tried different coils and still got nothing.
The only thing I can tell is the air control ring don't click anymore when you spin it.
The center pin slides up and down smooth and I don't see any splits or cracks in the insulator around the pin.
I should of got the two I ordered from MVD by Tuesday (6/22) but instead I got this email,
Sorry about the delay.
Since the white kanger subox mini may have some bugs,the kangertech shortage the supply,
and the expected shipping date for the modified version will be 28th,June.
We now have the black version in stock,
Will you want to change the color or waits for the white version?
MyVapeDeal - Vape Quality at The Best Price
That is copied and Pasted from the email.
So I was wondering if there was something going on with the White Kbox Mini's or is that statement in the email, "may have some bugs", just an excuse from them for selling stuff they don't have in stock ?
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I have the white Subox Mini and have only used the white Subtank Mini on it. The only issue that I have come across with it is every so often, when I push the fire button, it doesn't fire. I let go and push the fire button again and it works.
This has come up before as a very random problem on the KBox Mini. I don't think there was ever a clear resolution for it. If your brave, like @ephilbe, there's a single screw that will remove the face plate. The button pad may not be aligned perfectly under the faceplate. @ephilbe may be able to give you more details.
I would be interested in getting my hands on a malfunctioning Kbox mini. Might be a bit harder to diagnose one with such an intermittent problem, but one with a higher frequency of misfires could probably be sussed out. Given the malfunction was of a mechanical nature, i.e. button alignment.
Expected minor wear. I work construction and my box goes to work with me everyday and rides in the ruler pocket of my carpenter jeans. I also have minor wear inside the cage from from the RBA cap serrations. I'm not disappointed at all, still works like a champ.
Looks like Sweet Vapes is going to have some silicone cases for the KBox Mini soon. It might be a handy way to protect it in a harsh environment. I'm going to get one for the sole purpose of making it easier to hang on to. Like the iStick, they can be a little slippery, especially with a heavy tank attached.
I was experimenting with installing my black STM on a different fixed pin mod. I discovered afterwards that the center pin in the base was pushed up to where it was barely making contact with my Kbox mini 510.
I proceeded to remove the coil and push the base pin back out a bit. At this point, it would not make a connection with the coil pin. So (with coil installed) I pushed the base pin just far enough up to make contact with coil pin again. I stress, with just the slightest of force until it made contact. Now it makes good contact with both the 'Box mod and coil.
My theory is that the base insulator can create enough friction to hold the contact pin in place favoring, as it were, one direction or the other. I believe this could also account for some earlier complaints of contact issues regarding the new RBA's.
In hindsight, I would have taken it one step further and pulled the coil pin out slightly so that it would all "settle in" upon reassembly.
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No issues with my white one so far that haven't been attributed to user error. I have been using it for 10 days now.
As for the battery, i popped in a fresh 25r yesterday morning. It lasted me all day and actually died on the very last puff that I took for the night. I am not sure on the exact ml I went through yesterday, I know it was a lot for me though. Somewhere between 6-9 ml. I was wrenching on my bike most of the day then went out drinking that night so I was using the hell out of it.
As for the battery, i popped in a fresh 25r yesterday morning. It lasted me all day and actually died on the very last puff that I took for the night. I am not sure on the exact ml I went through yesterday, I know it was a lot for me though. Somewhere between 6-9 ml. I was wrenching on my bike most of the day then went out drinking that night so I was using the hell out of it.
Good observation. I'm having difficulties with the pos pin in the STmini base as well. The base insulator holds it very tight. So tight that the spring loaded 510 in my evic vt60 has trouble moving it upwards to keep good contact with the rba pos pin. Res fluctuations are causing temp control issues.
When you swapped out the buttons in your two kbox minis did you notice how the fixed pos pin was held in place? Silicone grommet? Foam pad? Or maybe a hard stop? Back in the days of ego twists and evod spinners we would gently rock the pos pin back up to the correct height with a small screwdriver to fix "dropped pos pin" probs.
@ephilbe
@cigatron
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@DCBD
@blivey
I may have experienced the reason Kangers is making "accuracy" changes for the V2. I'll preface this by stating I have no way of quantifying this or measuring what happened.
I purchased my first dripper yesterday, Mutation x V3, Dual 28g coils at .3 ohms. Runs fine on my mech. I decided to try it on the Kbox and see how it performed at different watts. Cranked it up to 50 watts and had a couple clouds, bad flavor. Unimpressed, I put the subtank back on and dialed it back down to 30watts where I normally Vape with the subtank RBA . Hit the fire button and it sounded like my tank was at way higher watts than 30 and I got horrible burnt flavor, much like trying to run this tank at say 50 watts. It's like it was internally stuck at 50 watts. Turned it back down to 10 watts, vaped, tasted normal, and the same process at 20 and 30 watts, now it's fine.
I could probably replicate the problem if need be but I don't want to damage any of my equipment.
Any reasonable explanations?
@cigatron
@hashtag
@DCBD
@blivey
I may have experienced the reason Kangers is making "accuracy" changes for the V2. I'll preface this by stating I have no way of quantifying this or measuring what happened.
I purchased my first dripper yesterday, Mutation x V3, Dual 28g coils at .3 ohms. Runs fine on my mech. I decided to try it on the Kbox and see how it performed at different watts. Cranked it up to 50 watts and had a couple clouds, bad flavor. Unimpressed, I put the subtank back on and dialed it back down to 30watts where I normally Vape with the subtank RBA . Hit the fire button and it sounded like my tank was at way higher watts than 30 and I got horrible burnt flavor, much like trying to run this tank at say 50 watts. It's like it was internally stuck at 50 watts. Turned it back down to 10 watts, vaped, tasted normal, and the same process at 20 and 30 watts, now it's fine.
I could probably replicate the problem if need be but I don't want to damage any of my equipment.
Any reasonable explanations?
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Thanks for the heads up, unfortunately the silicone makes anything a bear to get from my pockets. I don't mind my Kbox gaining character. With as many times as it comes in and out of my pocket daily I consider the wear normal.
At that price I may try one just for grins, it'd be nice to see a cover for the USB to keep trash out.
Did you verify your Stmini build res after you screwed it back on? If it had a temporary bad connection the mod would see a higher res and throw more voltage at your atty than normal to achieve 30w.
Could be your mutx pushed the kbox pos pin down further than your STm does and took a little time to return to it's normal height to reestablish good connection.
Fwiw, I always make sure my mods read the correct build res after swapping attys. FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!!
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