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Opinionated

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I'll pop over to a vape store near my work tomorrow and see if they have one.

Hey.. your endura is a fine mod,but it puts out a constant 14 watts, which means, your coils need to be able to vape at 14 watts without burning up. Try the 1.2 ohm coil, and if your still having problems with your coil burning up, you can try a VW device.

I don't want you walking into a vape shop and getting sold something you don't need, like a smok alien. If you do go to get a variable wattage device, I'd go with a Pico, you can buy a kit for 27.00, or just the mod for around 20.00. (You do need batteries and a charger for those though, so they are a higher price point than what you own, so if we can get what you own working for you, then it's better all the way around)
 
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redeuce

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You mentioned that you "primed" the T22 coil. In the T18 and T22 the coil is also the air shaft. You don't squirt juice in the coil to prime it. Just install the coil, fill the tank, and let it naturally wick for 5 or 10 minutes. Look for a reputable vape shop with knowledgeable employees to help you.
 
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BeardyMun

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You mentioned that you "primed" the T22 coil. In the T18 and T22 the coil is also the air shaft. You don't squirt juice in the coil to prime it. Just install the coil, fill the tank, and let it naturally wick for 5 or 10 minutes. Look for a reputable vape shop with knowledgeable employees to help you.

Only have the T22 mod. It's an Aspire K3 tank so different coils which I prime as per instructions from the guy in the local vape shop.
 
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BeardyMun

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I have a T22. The kit with the Prizm tank and 1.5 coils are designed to work together as a unit. I've had nothing but good luck, using light colored liquids at 70 vg. I'm hoping to get 14 days out of current coil. Maybe you have a defective mod. How are you vaping? This is strictly a mtl device. If you go direct lung, not only will it use up your coil, it could burn your lips.
A defective mod is plausible tbf. I vape mtl.
 

BeardyMun

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Hey.. your endura is a fine mod,but it puts out a constant 14 watts, which means, your coils need to be able to vape at 14 watts without burning up. Try the 1.2 ohm coil, and if your still having problems with your coil burning up, you can try a VW device.

I don't want you walking into a vape shop and getting sold something you don't need, like a smok alien. If you do go to get a variable wattage device, I'd go with a Pico, you can buy a kit for 27.00, or just the mod for around 20.00. (You do need batteries and a charger for those though, so they are a higher price point than what you own, so if we can get what you own working for you, then it's better all the way around)
This is an awesome response thank you. I'm going to look up what a pico is etc. I'll try the 1.2 ohm coil first.
 

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I do the pull without firing but don't believe I can alter the airflow. Now I look at it with all these awesome responses, my vape restricts what I can and can't do!

Take it off your tank and put your finger over the bottom pin when you take that pull.. that is where air is coming from..
 

BeardyMun

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It's not defective, it's too high of a wattage for a 1.8 ohm coil. I can't vape those any higher than 10 or 11 watts without burning them up. Your going to need either a .7 ohm coil or a 1.2.
I'll see if I can get hold of either of those tomorrow. Do you think I would have better luck with the .7 over the 1.2?
 
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redeuce

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What did you do with the Prizm tank? That is a good tank and meant to be paired with the T22 mod. Coils are available online for 1.75. I wouldn't give up on that setup. It's the perfect mtl experience. There are good and bad vape shops. A good one should be able to analyze your prob. Could be bad box.
 

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I came across this video that he takes the coil apart to show whats inside. There is a lot of cotton inside that coil head, so its going to take more than a little bit of juice and a few minutes to properly saturate the vast amount of wicking. The mod is designed to only fire those particular dual coil heads, trying a single coil thats more than 1.2 ohm in order to fire that mod, its going to burn from becoming too hot too fast and with the little airflow thats on the bottom of the atty your never going to be able to keep the airflow fast enough not to burn the coil, even with the factory dual coils IMO your going to have to pull like hell not to burn the coil.
I would just for fun take one of the spent heads apart, the shaft should wiggle off the base like cartomizers do without wrecking the threads like the dude in the video. There also could be too much cotton so your choking the coil, many variables to why its burning.
I kind of get around that by building a 1.3ohm 28/34 clapton and that runs at 14.0 watts so unless you build a coil that can utilize the single non adjustable setting of the mod or buy the I assume quite expensive heads you should like said already buy a setup that is more versatile and research first, many shop employees don't know enough to make a informed decision for you on whats the best setup for you.

 
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Coastal Cowboy

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There seems to be some misconception here (and it may well be mine). I've never used or seen the device in the discussion so take what I say in light of this.

It is more likely that at any given voltage, you will overpower a lower ohm coil than a higher ohm coil. If a burnt taste occurs at 1.8, the problem will be made worse by dropping to 1.2 Ohm's.

This is why a variable wattage device is so useful to newcomers breaking in a new coil.

It is the wattage that determines the likelihood of scorching the wick. At any fixed voltage, wattage increases as resistance decreases.

A fully soaked wick that has a large surface area and high resistance is what you want at higher voltage, if the goal is to minimize scorching.

As voltage drops, the chance of scorching decreases and the device is better able to produce vapor by creating more suction and moving more liquid across the coil.

I believe that the OP's problem can be addressed by using the higher resistance coil, priming the wick to the point of saturation, and taking very small draws over a much longer period of time during break-in than people with VV/VW devices are used to.

The T22's chip pegs the power of the device at 14w. Neither wattage nor voltage are set or changed by the user. For this device, the only user input variable in the Ohm's Law formula is resistance.

This site is a Godsend for newcomers and worth considering a donation:

Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 

BeardyMun

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What did you do with the Prizm tank? That is a good tank and meant to be paired with the T22 mod. Coils are available online for 1.75. I wouldn't give up on that setup. It's the perfect mtl experience. There are good and bad vape shops. A good one should be able to analyze your prob. Could be bad box.
I have the prizm tank still but struggle getting coils in town and I've gone through so many duds when ordering online I got fed up with it.
 

djsvapour

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*Moved from earlier in the thread.*

The Endura T22 is configured to deliver 14w with the factory 1.5ohm coils. That means the battery must output 4.5v.
The K3 tank uses BVC coils, as you say, and the Endura will power those at 4.5v as well.

4.5v using the 1.6ohm BVC coil will make a 12-13 watt vape, which is all well and good but could easily explain issues as you wouldn't normally start a BVC coil off at 13 watts.

That's my first concern for you.

Basically.... too much power on both systems. The Innokin T (Endura) series coil heads can run at these powers, but not fresh out of the box.

New coil + new charged battery = risk of burn. (Not every time, but yes... too often)

Its the same with many of the newest AIO systems. I'm dealing with this today with the Joyetech Penguin. Either I need to 'pull' on it lots between vapes or wait for the battery to reduce in power, or for the coil to break in.
 

redeuce

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I came across this video that he takes the coil apart to show whats inside. There is a lot of cotton inside that coil head, so its going to take more than a little bit of juice and a few minutes to properly saturate the vast amount of wicking. The mod is designed to only fire those particular dual coil heads, trying a single coil thats more than 1.2 ohm in order to fire that mod, its going to burn from becoming too hot too fast and with the little airflow thats on the bottom of the atty your never going to be able to keep the airflow fast enough not to burn the coil, even with the factory dual coils IMO your going to have to pull like hell not to burn the coil.
I would just for fun take one of the spent heads apart, the shaft should wiggle off the base like cartomizers do without wrecking the threads like the dude in the video. There also could be too much cotton so your choking the coil, many variables to why its burning.
I kind of get around that by building a 1.3ohm 28/34 clapton and that runs at 14.0 watts so unless you build a coil that can utilize the single non adjustable setting of the mod or buy the I assume quite expensive heads you should like said already buy a setup that is more versatile and research first, many shop employees don't know enough to make a informed decision for you on whats the best setup for you.




COIL.JPG
 

Coastal Cowboy

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The Endura T22 is configured to deliver 14w with the factory 1.5ohm coils. That means the battery must output 4.5v.
The K3 tank uses BVC coils, as you say, and the Endura will power those at 4.5v as well.

Yeppers. Remember our old little ego batteries were configured so that the little chip in the device delivered a constant 3.7v input throughout the battery's charge life.

The T22 and others like it peg the wattage and let the voltage increase as the charge drops.

That's kinda sorta maybe a daring concept when you think about it.
 
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