New member with inquiry.

[DiscoPotato]

Hello everyone.


A brief introduction, I've been smoking for 7 years now and thanks to a common friend at work introduced me to vaping.
I started vaping using the ego twist for about 2 weeks now (total beginner) and is trying to move into the mods.
I bought myself today a K100 vape set, and base on what I read online, the atomizer it comes with is disposable to I decided to grab along an Ego CE5 clearomizer and I find it more convenient to have a refillable tank rather than constantly putting juice on the disposable atomizer.
So far I'm totally satisfied with how it handles the flavor and vapor. But my main concerm is the time that I would need to replace the wire and the thread thing.


My question are:
1. What is the recommend wire and thread to use.


I honestly have very little idea which one to use. The K100 set I purchase came with a size 32 wire (2 feet long) and a thread about the same size of the thread with the Ego CE5.


2. If I were to replace the thread and wire, how many coils do I need?
My Ego CE5 says "2.4 ohms" and I have a battery of 18350 and 18500.


3. Does the size and number of the thread determines the amount of vapor it produce?
The juice that I got is a Vaporetto Delinquente with 6mg of nicotine and Extreme RY4 Low 50/50


I would highly appreciate all help you may share. And btw, I vape to help me quit smoking permanently.

 

[Steam Turbine]

I'm not sure I understand.

You got a K100 and a CE5 clearo and than some wire and "threads".

Does the wire and threads that they sent you looks like this?

or like this?

 

[DiscoPotato]

Sorry for the confusion. Actually I got both. When I received the package, it includes 1 extra device (picture at the bottom)
And yes, that's exactly the wire and thread I'm referring to. (picture at the top) It was labelled "For rebuilding" but does not include any instructions. I was thinking that it's what I need to use to replace the thread once it gets burned out.
I googled it and think that this might be what they called Kanthal. Im just lost as to how many times should i wrap or coil the wire on the thread in order to reach the 2.4ohms. I'm afraid that if i coil too much it might damage my K100.

 

[SuperTaz]

Hello DiscoPotato. I cannot help but I can say welcome to the club. This is the best place to get your answers !!

 

[bacc.vap]

First off, as you may already know, you don't have to rebuild if it doesn't suit your vaping style. You could just buy new atty heads and replace/clean them when they don't perform well any more.

As far as rebuilding goes it's best to have a mutimeter, then you can check the resistance of the wire and get the ohms just right. In this situation, assuming the wire and wick that was sent was for rebuilding, it's probably the same as what's already in the atty head, so take apart the atty head, look at the coil, and make the same number of wraps. I'll stress once again though that it's best to use a meter.

 

[Rsunderl]

The "atty heads" that bacc.vap is referring to is the picture at the bottom. They can be purchased rather inexpensively online or at a vape shop. they just screw into the bottom part of the CE5.

 

[djsvapour]

I feel for you. The K100 is fun/nice mechanical mod. What they bundled in with it (CE5) sounds pretty illogical to me.

If you want to rebuild stuff, a CE5 is an odd choice.

As bacc.vap says - you don't have to rebuild and you can just use a really great tank like Kanger Aerotank Mega or Aspire Nautilus if you want.

If you want to rebuild, that is different. The shop has let you down. i.m.o. and sold you a mismatched mod, tank and accessories.

 

[BoomerFZ1]

I agree with djsvapour...that is an odd pairing for a beginner. Perhaps the "pimp hand" is required at that B&M. Did they discuss battery safety in any way when they sold you this mod? I'd have to suggest getting something like a eLeaf iStick or MVP 20w and putting that mech mod aside for the time being. It might end up being a great purchase down the road but right now, being new to vaping, a safe, reliable mod that you can stick anything on as you decide what you like and don't like would be best.

 

[klynnn]

The last part of this video will show you how to rebuild the heads that are in Steam Turbines second pic. They are pretty similar to vivi nova heads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6_b-uUKVJg Definitely get an ohm meter or dmm when rebuilding.

 

[Stephenst4470]

I agree with djsvapour...that is an odd pairing for a beginner. Perhaps the "pimp hand" is required at that B&M. Did they discuss battery safety in any way when they sold you this mod? I'd have to suggest getting something like a eLeaf iStick or MVP 20w and putting that mech mod aside for the time being. It might end up being a great purchase down the road but right now, being new to vaping, a safe, reliable mod that you can stick anything on as you decide what you like and don't like would be best.

+1
I would have to agree with the above. This is an extremely odd combination to sell to a newbie coming from an eGo kit. I'm seeing this lately from time to time, brick and mortars pushing newbies out the door with mechs and RBA's. To the OP, until you have a pretty firm understanding of OHM's law, battery safety, a resistance tester or a VOM of some sort, and a bit of time to learn about wrapping coils, you should leave that Kanthal and Silica alone. You would be a lot better served get a Vamo or some sort of cheap VV/VW device and an Aerotank or Nautilus or similar to move your vaping experience forward and let the mech and RBA sit for a while. I'm also not sure why he got Kanthal and wick with a CE5, rebuilding tiny coil heads like that is possible but certainly not the best introduction into rebuildables, and certainly not worth the cost of just replacing a 1.50 coil head, unless you are really financially challenged.

 

[HecticEnergy]

Just like everyone else is saying here - K100 is a good starter mech mod. But mech mods are better paired with rebuildable atomizers (RBA). the CE5 is not an RBA. You can rebuild the coil heads (2nd picture in Steam Turbines post).
Everyone's vape journey is different. If you want to get into reubildables now, there is nothing to stop you, but please read up on battery safety and ohms law before picking up that K100 again. Personally I started building on regulated mods (like Vamo or iStick, or MVP20w) before going to a mechanical. They have alot of safety built in to keep you from blowing your face off (that's mostly said as hyperbole, but you could burn yourself, cause your mod to explode, or a ton of other bad things if you fire a build that causes your battery to go thermal and vent). With Mechanicals, you are the safety - so make sure to test your builds and know what you are doing.
Mechanicals have a nice sleek look, but beyond that most regulated mods can out perform them.
You can rebuild that ce5, but as a previous poster said, it doesnt make much sense. You could pick up a cheap RBA for around $20 and rebuild with a ton less frustration as you have a much larger space to build your coils.
There is a lot to learn with rebuilding, just like when you started with egos - different build materials, build methods, attys, batteries, mods, etc. I'd say stick with a regulated mod and a good clearo for now (not sure how the CE5s rate, but Nautilus seems to be a top performer). after you get comfortable with that, you can start researching rebuilding... but I'd learn more about clearomizers and how they work before jumping into that.
I really question the quality of service you got from that B&M... seems like those guys dont know what they are doing... Next time check here first
Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

The ce5 is not the easiest one to rebuild. In any case, you will need to have a multimeter or am ohm reader if you're going to rebuild and use a mech mod. You can check steam-engine.org to calculate wrap count depending on your wire gauge and goal resistance. Make sure that you have good batteries and read up on battery safety.

 

[HecticEnergy]

The ce5 is not the easiest one to rebuild. In any case, you will need to have a multimeter or am ohm reader if you're going to rebuild and use a mech mod. You can check steam-engine.org to calculate wrap count depending on your wire gauge and goal resistance. Make sure that you have good batteries and read up on battery safety.

What he said ^
only want to add:
Steam-Engine.org (and similar sites) are just to give you an idea of how many wraps of what wire around what size rod to get a target resistance. You NEED an ohm reader (or multimeter) to tell you what your final is resistance is after installed, and tell you if you are shorting out or not.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

What he said ^
only want to add:
Steam-Engine.org (and similar sites) are just to give you an idea of how many wraps of what wire around what size rod to get a target resistance. You NEED an ohm reader (or multimeter) to tell you what your final is resistance is after installed, and tell you if you are shorting out or not.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Exactly! Steam-engine is great for estimating what kind of a build you need to do, but it's a really, really bad idea to rely only on that estimation. Even if the calculation is correct you may have a short in the build. A short = possible catastrophic failure of the battery.

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF!

 

[BoomerFZ1]

Welcome to ECF!

Oh yeah...definitely...Welcome! And while we all pretty much questioned the integrity of this B&M, it may well have just been an inexperienced employee who sold you this set up so please don't really break out yo' pimp hand, yeah (tough puttin' mine away when it comes out...LOL)? It might be wise to speak with the manager or owner about it though. Someone should be aware their staff is slingin' mech mods with whatever they can find that screws on and fires. Oy vey!

 

[twgbonehead]

Hi, DiscoPotato, welcome to ECF!

Just for clarification:

What you are calling the "thread" is usually called the "Wick". In the picture, that's a silica wick, although wicks can be made of other materials (cotton, rayon, and stainless-steel mesh are other common ones).

The "Wire" is either kanthal or nichrome. 32 gauge is pretty high (small) for most coils... (The higher the gauge the smaller the wire; most people use between 30 and 24, with most in the 30-28 range unless you're sub-ohming).

 

[deach]

Welcome to ECF I can only mirror what's been said here so far. #1 that device is mismatched for that mod, #2 a good multimeter is paramount for you for your own safety and the others around you, #3 the steam engine site is awesome but that doesn't in any way eliminate the need for a meter to double check things after the coil is wound especially in that CE5, #4 Battery safety is again paramount for not only yourself but those around you. This is a great place to learn and get some great advice. Seems like you're off to a good start. Again, Welcome!!!

 

[HecticEnergy]

Oh yeah...definitely...Welcome! And while we all pretty much questioned the integrity of this B&M, it may well have just been an inexperienced employee who sold you this set up so please don't really break out yo' pimp hand, yeah (tough puttin' mine away when it comes out...LOL)? It might be wise to speak with the manager or owner about it though. Someone should be aware their staff is slingin' mech mods with whatever they can find that screws on and fires. Oy vey!

True, but it does say something about the shop... Like they don't train their employees, or evaluate the employees knowledge before putting them out on the sales floor.
Defiantly take it back (unless you want it collecting dust until you may use it later) and discuss an exchange/refund with the manager.




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[Steam Turbine]

Yeah, like everyone else said, why the hell would they sell you a mech a ce5 and wick and wire? It makes no sense.

Selling a mech as a first mod to a clueless customer is ridiculous and irresponsible. I would strongly recommend you putting this mod aside as mentioned earlier.

Get yourself a nice safe electronic mod like the eLeaf iStick. Not only will it be safer but the vape quality will be much better. A k100 and a 2 ohm ce5 is a very weak and unsatisfying vape for most people.

You absolutely do not need to wrap coils yourself on a ce5, just buy some prefab heads (bottom picture).

Take things slowly, know how and what you like to vape before stepping in the realm of mech mods and rebuildable attomizers. Mechanical mods require more knowledge to be operated safely than a electronic mod like the iStick.