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Ok Darchand.
Could you get your e-pipe prototype built, tested, re-build, checked, verified, signed off, considered, re-considered and finally put into full production by Fathers Day!!!!!
If so put me down for the first off the production line....
Peter.....
Could you get your e-pipe prototype built, tested, re-build, checked, verified, signed off, considered, re-considered and finally put into full production by Fathers Day!!!!!
If so put me down for the first off the production line....
Peter.....
Ok Darchand.
Could you get your e-pipe prototype built, tested, re-build, checked, verified, signed off, considered, re-considered and finally put into full production by Fathers Day!!!!!
If so put me down for the first off the production line....
Peter.....
Oh how I wish I could. Of course in about 12 or so days the first prototype will be built and in my hands
Sadly I don't know anything about getting something into production and I am sure it takes some money to do so. As far as the second prototype goes it won't even be the same style and it will be its own unique monster.
Can't wait to get the parts in so in the mean time I will do a cut away of the design (the over all build is a simplistic one). Then I also have a little poster that I made that I will post tomorrow. Later into next week I will do a design and a cut away on the next model.
Again thanks to every one for the support
Thanks antism. I can't wait to see how the prototype works to.
For now a drawing of the first pipe and the layout of how it is all wired. I know it is a rough drawing and simplistic but it does the job.
How much did the Shapeways 3-d printout cost? I wonder if you can let people just purchase a shapeways copy, and then sell them a kit of the electrical parts for them to install themselves.
This is more of a general comment about e-pipes, rather than about your own design. I don't smoke pipes, so perhaps it is the engineer in me that is bothered by this.
In engineering, when you have a heavy weight you need to support, the further off to the side it is from the support, the more of a strain it is on the support structure. In other words, by putting the battery in the bowl of a straight pipe, you are either asking the user to hold the bowl in their hands at all times, or accepting that they will put a lot of stress on their teeth.
One approach is to minimize that horizontal distance, either by making the pipe short if it were a straight pipe, or using a curved design, like the one Darchand has, but perhaps making it even deeper of a curve and more S-shaped at the top part. This way the pipe hangs more vertically in the user's mouth, and largely removes the cantilevering.
Another approach might be to put the battery in the stem, closer to the mouth, but then, of course, a wide battery wouldn't do, and you would have to have a fairly straight stem.
The atomizer might be moved to the bowl, but that would need a lot more design. Something in me is just very satisfied by seeing a wisp of smoke rising from a pipe bowl. If the atomizer (obviously a custom one) is in the bowl, then perhaps the atomizer can come on automatically for a second or two every minute to generate a bit of vapor. That feature should automatically shut off after 5 or 10 minutes ... but now I have gone off topic from this already off-topic post.
Joe Dunfee
This is more of a general comment about e-pipes, rather than about your own design. I don't smoke pipes, so perhaps it is the engineer in me that is bothered by this.
In engineering, when you have a heavy weight you need to support, the further off to the side it is from the support, the more of a strain it is on the support structure. In other words, by putting the battery in the bowl of a straight pipe, you are either asking the user to hold the bowl in their hands at all times, or accepting that they will put a lot of stress on their teeth.
One approach is to minimize that horizontal distance, either by making the pipe short if it were a straight pipe, or using a curved design, like the one Darchand has, but perhaps making it even deeper of a curve and more S-shaped at the top part. This way the pipe hangs more vertically in the user's mouth, and largely removes the cantilevering.
Another approach might be to put the battery in the stem, closer to the mouth, but then, of course, a wide battery wouldn't do, and you would have to have a fairly straight stem.
The atomizer might be moved to the bowl, but that would need a lot more design. Something in me is just very satisfied by seeing a wisp of smoke rising from a pipe bowl. If the atomizer (obviously a custom one) is in the bowl, then perhaps the atomizer can come on automatically for a second or two every minute to generate a bit of vapor. That feature should automatically shut off after 5 or 10 minutes ... but now I have gone off topic from this already off-topic post.
Joe Dunfee
Two more ideas, but this time directly related to your design;
Create two separate designs for mouth pieces. One as is, and the other more curved, to hang from the user's mouth.
Make a charging base that has the connector inside, so that the act of setting the pipe down automatically makes the connection. If you want to get sophisticated in terms of electronics, do it inductively.
Joe Dunfee
Create two separate designs for mouth pieces. One as is, and the other more curved, to hang from the user's mouth.
Make a charging base that has the connector inside, so that the act of setting the pipe down automatically makes the connection. If you want to get sophisticated in terms of electronics, do it inductively.
Joe Dunfee
well honestly I was thinking oh great just the same pipe just a different body.... but after seeing the break down I definitely love the idea of the separate atty housing... and if the mouthpiece held a huge cart (just incase I decide to use one and not drip )
I would totally get one of these.
also cadcoke5's charging suggestion would seal the deal
bottom quote to provide reference
)I would totally get one of these.
also cadcoke5's charging suggestion would seal the deal
bottom quote to provide reference
Just a suggestion. Get rid of the separate switch and make it so that pressing on the jewel cap with your thumb activates the atomizer. Less things to break.
Alright long post incoming my replies are green (zero carbon emissions). Thank you for all the ideas and support. I hope I have helped with all your questions and suggestions. Doubt it but I hope it helped non the less.
P.S.
I might still be a little tired so bear with me.
P.S.
I might still be a little tired so bear with me.
well honestly I was thinking oh great just the same pipe just a different body.... but after seeing the break down I definitely love the idea of the separate atty housing... and if the mouthpiece held a huge cart (just incase I decide to use one and not drip
Sadly I didnt build a cart for this design but I think I might later on and see how it works. You are right though the cart would be huge. I still prefer dripping though.
I would totally get one of these.
also cadcoke5's charging suggestion would seal the deal
In the end I am hoping you will be happy with the design but keep in mind this design is made for me and also made for me to test out 3d printing. If all goes well I will take everything into account
Just a suggestion. Get rid of the separate switch and make it so that pressing on the jewel cap with your thumb activates the atomizer. Less things to break.
This would have made life so much easier for me why didnt you mention it before! Just kidding I actually thought of that and thought of where I would like the button placed. I also did this to test another thing out that will be on the next design but in that case it would have made more sense to make the jewel cap the button. You will see
I've been thinking about a charging stand for my own pipe.
The Atty's outer case, is usually visible which is wired as the -ve so all you need is to drill a small hole at the bottom of the bowl and attach a conductive stud connected to the +ve.
And there you go. Already setup for a custom charging stand.
Darchand
I hope you don't mind me modding you Picture.
The Atty's outer case, is usually visible which is wired as the -ve so all you need is to drill a small hole at the bottom of the bowl and attach a conductive stud connected to the +ve.
And there you go. Already setup for a custom charging stand.
Darchand
I hope you don't mind me modding you Picture.
I've been thinking about a charging stand for my own pipe.
The Atty's outer case, is usually visible which is wired as the -ve so all you need is to drill a small hole at the bottom of the bowl and attach a conductive stud connected to the +ve.
And there you go. Already setup for a custom charging stand.
Darchand
I hope you don't mind me modding you Picture.
Not at all feel free to change it however you want. I want you to keep in mind that I am not well versed in the area of electronics. My major is in game arts (sadly I have yet to find a job
).Anyways if I did what you are suggesting I might need a little more help and advise and it is very nice to know that I am surrounded by so many people that are very knowledgeable about these electronics.
Awesome design Darchand, the proportions are nicely done. That 3D printing is very interesting. I'm glad to see it is now becoming available to the average consumer. I remember seeing this a couple years ago and the cost was incredibly high. It was primarily used for 1 off protoypes to create molds and such. I see HP is now looking to market these printers for home use, now that would be sweet. Again nice job.
Thanks Charged I appreciate it.
Little update status not much to share right now. I just got my UPS tracking code from the Netherlands where shapeways is located. Don't know how long it should take but I think it should be here Monday or Tuesday.
I have been looking into doing other things as well seeing how 3d print isn't what you could call cost effective. Next design I make I might only order half the model and try my hand at making a mold of the design. I don't expect I will do that until maybe March or April though but as always I will keep the updates coming.
Little update status not much to share right now. I just got my UPS tracking code from the Netherlands where shapeways is located. Don't know how long it should take but I think it should be here Monday or Tuesday.
I have been looking into doing other things as well seeing how 3d print isn't what you could call cost effective. Next design I make I might only order half the model and try my hand at making a mold of the design. I don't expect I will do that until maybe March or April though but as always I will keep the updates coming.
Actually, At $30, I think the rapid prototyping is quite cost effective. If you were to make a mold, you would spend a LOT more money in your own time. By the way, ordering half the prototype (I assume you meant like slicing it down the middle), would not give you what you need for a mold, because you need mirrored halves.
With rapid prototyping, you can get extremely detailed and model threads, holes and slots where you needed them. The plastic would be done, except for any color you wanted to add. If you could find an off-the-shelf battery case, you would only need to solder the wires to the correct places, and then insert the parts where they need to go. It would almost be a no-brainer for someone to assemble such a kit, though a lot of thought and work would go into the design sent to Shapeways.
By the way, I started asking about how some atomizers work, in the context of making a new atomizer design. However, I think my design would work for a pipe, and so wrote about that. I can't start a new thread, since I am a new member. But, here is the thread I commented... oops I can't even link to another thread until I have made 15 posts! Anyway, the thread was titled "disposable-autopsy"
Joe Dunfee
With rapid prototyping, you can get extremely detailed and model threads, holes and slots where you needed them. The plastic would be done, except for any color you wanted to add. If you could find an off-the-shelf battery case, you would only need to solder the wires to the correct places, and then insert the parts where they need to go. It would almost be a no-brainer for someone to assemble such a kit, though a lot of thought and work would go into the design sent to Shapeways.
By the way, I started asking about how some atomizers work, in the context of making a new atomizer design. However, I think my design would work for a pipe, and so wrote about that. I can't start a new thread, since I am a new member. But, here is the thread I commented... oops I can't even link to another thread until I have made 15 posts! Anyway, the thread was titled "disposable-autopsy"
Joe Dunfee
$30 might be somewhat cost efficient but there are some little things that bug me. The largest problem I have right now is this little part under shapeways site. Here is the quoted text
"The models should not come in contact with electricity or food & drinks and should be kept away from heat."
So with an electric pipe that clearly uses a battery, a switch, wires run through the model, an atomizer to heat liquid and of course the liquid itself. How many of these things am I doing that go against what they are saying I shouldn't do? I think I pretty much have them all covered don't you?
I would like to find a better way of producing one of these pipes. Not only more cost efficient but also something that uses safer material.
I am currently looking for something that would provide a seal on the material that isn't toxic and gives a smooth finish. Any ideas are welcome.
"The models should not come in contact with electricity or food & drinks and should be kept away from heat."
So with an electric pipe that clearly uses a battery, a switch, wires run through the model, an atomizer to heat liquid and of course the liquid itself. How many of these things am I doing that go against what they are saying I shouldn't do? I think I pretty much have them all covered don't you?
I would like to find a better way of producing one of these pipes. Not only more cost efficient but also something that uses safer material.
I am currently looking for something that would provide a seal on the material that isn't toxic and gives a smooth finish. Any ideas are welcome.
Shapeways offers a variety of different materials. But even if I knew which one you were getting, I don't know that I could help much. Some of the materials have technical details listed, and some don't.
However, I suspect a lot of their statement is them saying that they can't certify the material is acceptable for whatever the user chooses to use it for. Regarding electricity, if a material is porous, it may retain enough moisture that it becomes conductive. 120volts would be a bad thing in that situation. But, you are safe with the low voltages you are using
I do suspect that painting it is a good idea, even if just for longevity so that UV light doesn't make it brittle over the years. They indicate that a lot of paints will work.
Your mouth piece is a separate issue. I don't think paint is good, so you may need to leave it plain or perhaps dye it. I see there was some talk about this on their forums. Just be sure to "set" any dies, so they don't bleed onto your mouth. Heat is the normal method use to set dies on fabrics, but you would need to stay within the heat tolerance of your plastic.
I am also uncertain if the strength of the plastic will stand up to being gripped with your teeth if you were to bite down on it at all. Perhaps the ideal situation is to use the mouth piece from a regular pipe. I think you need space in your design for the cartomizer to stick into the pipe mouthpiece. I just did some web browsing, and see that some pipes have space for filters. Perhaps those have mouth pieces that could accommodate the space for a cartomizer. But, I don't know where the filter's go, nor the size of the filters.
Sorry for all the ideas, without any specific help. I know that can be frustrating, since all that does is add to the never-ending list of possibilities that take time to pursue.
Joe Dunfee
However, I suspect a lot of their statement is them saying that they can't certify the material is acceptable for whatever the user chooses to use it for. Regarding electricity, if a material is porous, it may retain enough moisture that it becomes conductive. 120volts would be a bad thing in that situation. But, you are safe with the low voltages you are using
I do suspect that painting it is a good idea, even if just for longevity so that UV light doesn't make it brittle over the years. They indicate that a lot of paints will work.
Your mouth piece is a separate issue. I don't think paint is good, so you may need to leave it plain or perhaps dye it. I see there was some talk about this on their forums. Just be sure to "set" any dies, so they don't bleed onto your mouth. Heat is the normal method use to set dies on fabrics, but you would need to stay within the heat tolerance of your plastic.
I am also uncertain if the strength of the plastic will stand up to being gripped with your teeth if you were to bite down on it at all. Perhaps the ideal situation is to use the mouth piece from a regular pipe. I think you need space in your design for the cartomizer to stick into the pipe mouthpiece. I just did some web browsing, and see that some pipes have space for filters. Perhaps those have mouth pieces that could accommodate the space for a cartomizer. But, I don't know where the filter's go, nor the size of the filters.
Sorry for all the ideas, without any specific help. I know that can be frustrating, since all that does is add to the never-ending list of possibilities that take time to pursue.
Joe Dunfee
Love the design. I've been wanting a pipe myself, but something other than those currently available. I'd be really happy if you can up with an automatic battery as I prefer to walk around with my pipe during the day without holding it very much. The only time I'd really be interested in a pipe with a switch is if I had a really long pipe like ole Gandalf there. Actually, I wouldn't mind having a vape pipe like Gandalf.
As for materials, if you were to have the pipe made in easily moldable sections, that would be the way to go. Smooth-on.com would have about everything you'd need for molding and casting including food grade resins that should hold up well to atomizer heat.
Keep us posted!
As for materials, if you were to have the pipe made in easily moldable sections, that would be the way to go. Smooth-on.com would have about everything you'd need for molding and casting including food grade resins that should hold up well to atomizer heat.
Keep us posted!
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