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Waddle

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Ni200 sucks - try the mesh with Titanium. If it works with Titanium then that will be exciting :)

Or I will try it soon - best case I will get my mesh on Tuesday.

I am not sure how to work out the resistance of the mesh. The mesh I am looking at says it uses 46 or 48G wire. But that cannot be the way to work out the resistance, as 46G Stainless Steel should have a resistance many times higher than Kanthal. So if that was the only factor, it would not need oxidising with Kanthal either.

Maybe because it has only small holes in it, and only some 30-40% of the mesh is open space, it is equivalent to a much thicker wire.


Hmm..I use 28awg Ni200 with [HASHTAG]#500[/HASHTAG] mesh on my Taifun GT II and it beats the hell out of cotton. What is it that you find sucks? If your build is not working with Ni200 then I'm not sure it will work with Ti either.
 

TheBloke

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Hmm..I use 28awg Ni200 with [HASHTAG]#500[/HASHTAG] mesh on my Taifun GT II and it beats the hell out of cotton. What is it that you find sucks? If your build is not working with Ni200 then I'm not sure it will work with Ti either.

Well I am only talking of the difference in general of ni200 vs Titanium. I have not yet used any mesh.

Ni200 is soft and often hard to work with, it has extremely low resistance which limits some builds - and wire sizes - and uses excess power, and many people report a worse taste with it (I have not noticed this.)

In my view Titanium is better than Ni200 in every respect, with the only possible exception being able to use Ni200 with mesh without oxidising. If also Titanium works with mesh also without oxidisation then that will be great and I could see no reason to use Ni200.

Actually even better than Titanium is Resistherm NiFe30 / NiFethal 70 / Alloy 120. Available easily (but quite expensively) as Dicodes Resistherm wire. This has lower resistance than Titanium and is therefore even more likely to work. I will test this as well. The only downside of Resistherm (besides cost) is that is only available as 29G / 0.28mm. Hence I twist mine to make it a bit thicker and stronger. Then it is the best wire I have used, because it has all the TC advantages of Titanium plus it can also be dry burnt like Kanthal.
 

cindycated

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Genesis users have always sworn by mesh. Also many use it in RDAs. However I'm not so sure there are that many rta atomizers where mesh can be utilized otherwise. The Taifun is one I know of,but I think it would be difficult to use mesh in the Squape. It has also been used in Pinoy style atomizers like the Blackwood, the FEV, the Taifun GS, and the Horizon . Sorry to go off topic here since this is a Squape thread.
I thought I read somewhere that you could use mesh in the SQR, using the S deck...
SQR-std.jpg

in their "technical specs and sample builds" PDF off their site. In their example, they used [HASHTAG]#300[/HASHTAG].
 
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TheBloke

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I thought I read somewhere that you could use mesh in the SQR, using the S deck...
attachment.php

It was in their "technical specs and sample builds" PDF off their site. In their example, they used [HASHTAG]#300[/HASHTAG].

Cool that's good to hear. And if you can use S I think surely you could use W, which is the same just wider.
 
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Waddle

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I thought I read somewhere that you could use mesh in the SQR, using the S deck...
attachment.php

It was in their "technical specs and sample builds" PDF off their site. In their example, they used [HASHTAG]#300[/HASHTAG].

Right you are...a quick Google search turned up numerous hits!
 
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cindycated

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Actually maybe C would be the best deck. On C, the juice channels curve upwards towards the wick - rather than there being an L shaped drop from horizontal to vertical.

I would think that would enable liquid to more easily rise up to where the straight horizontal mesh is.
Yeah, I thought that with rayon too - at first I thought the C deck would be perfect for it, but never got it to work right.
 
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roxynoodle

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Right, I was talking about mesh feeder straws mainly, and as a wick in a genny.

And I did say I don't know yet how the 400 feeder straws will do with high vg in the Taifun GS2. I have about 10ml of a 50/50 juice I'm trying to finish before it expires. Then I'll try the higher vg and let you know.

I have a 400 wick in my Origenny v2, and the genny people are telling me I wouldn't have to tilt if I used a higher pg juice, or used a courser mesh for the 70vg I put in it. As long as I tilt, its working fine. They just feel I wouldn't have to tilt if I changed things up. Gennys are not my strong suit so I'll have to take their word for it. My first genny was a Sat22 clone. I had no idea what I was doing, and did what I do with all my RTAs; I built it and used it without looking at any tutorials. It worked fine, but the super tight airflow wasn't for me. I didn't have much interest in trying another genny. Then the Origenny appeared in my mailbox a few weeks ago. A friend had bought it, and freaked out when she saw all the parts, and sent it to me. So now I'm playing with that one.

I think one could use a mesh U wick in the Urba and Nectar. I kind of tried it, but gave up on attempt one because I did a terrible job with rolling the wick. Now I know what I did wrong so may try again.
 

TheBloke

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OK thanks @archimede and @roxynoodle . I have just had a conversation with a vendor of the Horizon, who has told me that he uses [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG] as his feeder wicks and is able to use this with any % VG. The only difference is that with higher VG, he lifts the mesh up a bit higher so it is not buried in the cotton wick but only just touching it.

So that's reassuring, there's a good chance that just one kind of mesh will work. But I ordered several types (80,140; 200; 300 x 2 kinds; 400 x 2 kinds) so I can experiment. I will also try some straight mesh wicks in the Taifun GT2, Ubertoot and Squape Rs'. And any other RTAs I can find that can have a straight wick. I might try an RDA or two as well, as it'll definitely work there.

I think one could use a mesh U wick in the Urba and Nectar. I kind of tried it, but gave up on attempt one because I did a terrible job with rolling the wick. Now I know what I did wrong so may try again.

Damn I forgot about the URBA in my recent RTA hunt. And I'd not even heard of the Nectar. Must. Not. Buy. Any. More!

At the moment i am using 400 mesh in my Taifun GS2 as feeder. The juice in GS2 is 95% VG 5% water (No Flavor) and there is no problem about feeding.

Doesn't that get a bit boring? :)
 
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cindycated

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Right, I was talking about mesh feeder straws mainly, and as a wick in a genny.

And I did say I don't know yet how the 400 feeder straws will do with high vg in the Taifun GS2. I have about 10ml of a 50/50 juice I'm trying to finish before it expires. Then I'll try the higher vg and let you know.

I have a 400 wick in my Origenny v2, and the genny people are telling me I wouldn't have to tilt if I used a higher pg juice, or used a courser mesh for the 70vg I put in it. As long as I tilt, its working fine. They just feel I wouldn't have to tilt if I changed things up. Gennys are not my strong suit so I'll have to take their word for it. My first genny was a Sat22 clone. I had no idea what I was doing, and did what I do with all my RTAs; I built it and used it without looking at any tutorials. It worked fine, but the super tight airflow wasn't for me. I didn't have much interest in trying another genny. Then the Origenny appeared in my mailbox a few weeks ago. A friend had bought it, and freaked out when she saw all the parts, and sent it to me. So now I'm playing with that one.

I think one could use a mesh U wick in the Urba and Nectar. I kind of tried it, but gave up on attempt one because I did a terrible job with rolling the wick. Now I know what I did wrong so may try again.
I would think that the difference between genny wicking and feeder straws would be gravity, no? One going up, the other going down? So maybe going up (gennies) would work better with coarser mesh where it feeds faster, whereas going down (feeder straws - dunno how those work, I'm thinking like Herons?) would work better with finer mesh (like [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG]).
 

TheBloke

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Hello

Is there anybody who know what manufacture did this clone?
SQuape Rs 100%Clone RTA Five-piece Set - Ocean Vapor[/S]

Thanks for the link!

That's interesting. It's possible it's another new one.

  • It has five decks, like the Ivogo.
  • But it does not have the Ivogo bell cap.
  • It has a fake serial number on the base like the SXK.
  • The engraving is not the best quality, matching the SXK.
  • It comes with two 'wicks' like the SXK

Either it's a new one, or it's the SXK with all five decks supplied. Maybe SXK have two packages, one with only one deck, and one with five decks. Or maybe they have changed the package to include all five.

My guess is that it's the SXK with all five decks included.

EDIT: Yes, now I am sure it is. Because Ocean Vapor have a separate, cheaper package, with one deck: SQuape Rs Rebuildable Tank Atomizer Clone - Ocean Vapor

So it might not even be SXK including the extra decks. It might be an Ocean Vapour thing - they add the extra four decks themselves.

Either way, I am sure it is the SXK. That is a good thing, apart from the engraving I expect it to be slightly better than the Ivogo (because of Ivogo's resistance problem, and because of availability of different colour tanks for the SXK.)
 

TheBloke

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I would think that the difference between genny wicking and feeder straws would be gravity, no? One going up, the other going down? So maybe going up (gennies) would work better with coarser mesh where it feeds faster, whereas going down (feeder straws - dunno how those work, I'm thinking like Herons?) would work better with finer mesh (like [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG]).

Oh yeah good point - I had forgotten that the Genesis wicks up. That could be a big difference.

What I do now know regarding the Horizon - a down flow with the tank sitting above the deck - is that [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG] should work. Since we started discussing I had a discussion with a Dutch vendor of the Horizon. He told me that he uses [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG] and it wicks great with any % VG. The only difference that thicker makes is that he raises the mesh tubes up a little - ie not buried in the cotton wick below, but just brushing them.

Probably there's a range of different meshes that work in different situations. Ii thought it interesting that the Dutch vendor said that the same mesh works with higher VG just by not pushing it too hard into the cotton.
 

TheBloke

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OK, as promised but somewhat belatedly, here's a comparison of the SXK vs Ivogo Squape Rs':

Differences

Tanks
Ivogo comes with a free bell cap. This is much easier to fill, but does not look great.

SXK only comes with a stainless tank, but optional coloured (aluminium) tanks are available for purchase, making for a greater range of available tanks at extra cost.

Ivogo bell cap:
Stainless Steel Tank weights (excluding chimney)
  • Ivogo: 25.2g
  • SXK: 26.3g
I don't know what this means for whether they are 304 vs 316. Is there a clear weight difference between these metals? If so, then I suspect they are both the same, which would mean they should both be 316.
Screws head widths
  • Ivogo: 3.22mm
  • SXK: 3.52mm
Slightly easier to trap a wire with the SXK.
Engraving
Left to right: SXK stainless; Ivogo stainless; SXK red



The Ivogo engraving is 'crisper', better defined. At first I assumed it was the better copy.

However now I look on Google Image, I think the SXK may actually be closer to the original:


Positive pin
As previously discussed, the SXK is fractionally longer, and the Ivogo suffers from fluctuating and poor resistance. Whether the tiny difference in the positive pin is the explanation, I am not sure.

But the Ivogo definitely needs a longer pin, and it is not recommended to use it for TC without changing the positive for an M3x16mm.​
Serial number

SXK has one on the base, Ivogo does not.


Compatibility

Decks, Screws, and Removable Deck Post
Interchangeable
Chimneys
Interchangeable
Positive pin
SXK can be used in the Ivogo; Ivogo should not be used with either the Ivogo or the SXK!
AFC ring
Interchangeable
Tanks
SXK tanks can be used with the Ivogo.

Ivogo stainless tank does not fit fully on the SXK - there is a slight gap. I suspect it will still vape. It must not be tightened too hard else it will easily jam tight.

However the Ivogo bell cap does fit on the SXK base without any gap.

Ivogo stainless tank on the SXK base:
 
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