New to mechs and box mods, not vaping. Still need help

[TomBacardi]

So I've got a provari, and am looking for a mech mod and a vv/vw box mod so I can drip with coils that aren't 11-13 wraps.
Mech wise I was looking at the tesla m7, I know about battery safety, ohms law, and such mostly, but still find myself nervous to try it out. Any tips?
Also as a side note box mod I've almost got no clue. I was looking at sigelei raptor, but heard some complaints (along side a lot of appraisal). So tips for that would be nice as well

 

[Warpigs]

Box mod = MVP2 or God Box hehe.

 

[ukeman]

Haven't had a Provari in years but loved them when they first came out.
Did go through a lot of mech tubes.
And now have lots of regulated "box mods"
and a Reo.

By "not vaping..." do you mean you are vaping the provari but not the mech or box ?

I'm not familiar with the specs on the Provari anymore but I'm sure they can be configured to give you a super vape (with flexibility) unless you mean you want to try higher wattage and batt outputs than what the provari does? (sub ohms).

Tips ? have fun...
there are a ton of different things you can do with all these types of devices... I'll say its taken me years to learn all of them.

I'm sure your going to go to the sub forums and threads that chat about each different type and find out what vapers are doing with each.

The newer box mods in company with the Sig 100 seem to be greared to give a vaper whatever type of vape they desire, from mid range coil resistances, down to sub ohms (higher wattage), and back up to high voltage with higher ohms coils.
There's differences, pros AND cons to each, strengths and weaknesses, but imo all are worth trying out.

 

[Susan~S]

What's making you nervous?

1. Do you have good batteries & charger?
2. Do you have an ohm reader and voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries?
3. Do you understand ohm's law and how the continuous Amp rating of your battery determines how safe your build is?

If you feel a little "wobbly" on the above, check out this post from late last night regarding Baditudes Blogs. If you have all this covered, there is nothing to be nervous about. Build a simple single 1.0 to 1.5 ohm micro coil and have some fun! Once you get all the kinks out then you can dive in a little lower.

Here are a few links for you regarding building coils and getting the resistance just where you want it:
1. Steam Engine
2. Coil Toy Calculator

Make sure to check your build with an ohm reader or DMM before putting it on your mod and firing it.

 

[TomBacardi]

By "not vaping..." do you mean you are vaping the provari but not the mech or box

Yes, I did mean that I've been doing the provari for a few months now, have tried it with clearomizers and rda's and am now looking to get both a mech and a box

Also the provari does not allow sub ohms

 

[TomBacardi]

What's making you nervous?

1. Do you have good batteries & charger?
2. Do you have an ohm reader and voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries?
3. Do you understand ohm's law and how the continuous Amp rating of your battery determines how safe your build is?

If you feel a little "wobbly" on the above, check out this from last nights BlogsIf you have all this covered, there is nothing to be nervous about. Build a simple single 1.0 to 1.5 ohm micro coil and have some fun! Once you get all the kinks out then you can dive in a little lower.

Here are a few links for you regarding building coils and getting the resistance just where you want it:


Make sure to check your build with an ohm reader or DMM before putting it on your mod and firing it.

It's not that I don't know those things, I know about voltage drop and I have a few rda's that I use with my provari. That's why I want both a mech and a regulated box, because the mech is literally just to have one and obviously use, and the box mod would be so I can use something vv/vw that I doot have to worry so much as to keeping up with it during the day.
Sorry I butchered your quote it wouldn't let me post with the links

 

[Susan~S]

It's not that I don't know those things, I know about voltage drop and I have a few rda's that I use with my provari. That's why I want both a mech and a regulated box, because the mech is literally just to have one and obviously use, and the box mod would be so I can use something vv/vw that I doot have to worry so much as to keeping up with it during the day.
Sorry I butchered your quote it wouldn't let me post with the links

Gotcha! Didn't realize you were already into rebuildables.

I too am interested in a vv/vw box mod. I have held out this long just to see where the technology is going. Almost jump at the IPV2 (50watts) but am waiting to see all the reviews from the box mods using evolvs new temperature control DNA-40 board. I am REALLY INTERESTED in this.

Here's an interview with PBusardo and Brandon from Evolv.

 

[Rwb1500]

I'm in love with the DNA chip, haven't tried the 40 yet but the the 30 is amazing, even the clones. You can pick up a DNA 30 clone box mod from $50 and up. That'll allow you to vape down to .3 ohms, and up to 8.3.volts.

 

[10fttapeworm]

DNA 40 would that still be worth getting a box mod if I was interested in sub ohming or rebuildables if I already have a sigelei 30 watt?

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk

 

[ukeman]

DNA 40 would that still be worth getting a box mod if I was interested in sub ohming or rebuildables if I already have a sigelei 30 watt?

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk

The DNA 40 is a different paradigm. If you have the DNA30 , the 40 (used with kanthal wire = turns off temp protection mode) is only going to give you 10 more watts = 40 of course, and if you want to sub ohms with thicker wire, atomizers that are made for it (dual coils, dual air i.e.) don't bother spending over $200.
It's strength is Temp Protection using (Nickel wire) which will be super low resistance, but NOT anything like sub ohms as we know it. You have to build nickel coil below .3 ohms. which is easy because nickel is also known as "no resistance" wire. The wire is thin too; 28g 30g, 32g.
DNA40 prevents the wick from burning your juice, which gives better flavor (imo).

If you sub ohms with thick wire (26g 24g) kanthal, below .8 ohms (.2x, .30 ohms i.e.) you need high watts. If you use ohms law calculator you will see what kind of watts a .3 ohms coil will produce at 4v.

The DNA30 can handle .5 and up imo you know, like 20 to 30w, but its strength imo is that its voltage can go up to 8v.... !
So what i've been loving is a 30g kanthal micro coil in LR ranges (1 to 2 ohms). Lots of wraps for surface area (better flavor), and about 7v.
Awesome flavor and vapor; the thinner wire cools down fast too so no burnt juice. The watts are around 18w and amps are low too (3amp) good for battery.

I like a good .25 ohms dual on a dripper too, 26g kanthal, at like 65w (4 volts) on a mechanical or high watt box too... but just saying its good to have choices and imo the DNA 20 and 30 types have this (above) kind of power (higher voltage for higher resistance and the benefits of that).