New to the forums and sub ohm!!

[HuntTheHunter]

Hey ecf! I've been around a while, but never made an account or posted. I've been vaping a couple years now and would really like to get into sub ohm builds. I've researched a lot and know ohms law and proper safety/battery care! I would like to get everyone's opinions on what to buy for my specific desires.
rda/rta:
1. Rebuildable
2. Holds a fair amount of ejuice
3. Affordable/ accessible

Mod:
1. Variable wattage
2. Safe
3. Reads ohms/volts
4. Affordable/ accessible
(Or just a nice mech mod)

By affordable I mean total costing <$200
Any help will be greatly appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dmwalker24]

RTA: I know it's not really like a full blown rta but the best vape I've got atm is the Subtank running a 0.7 ohm build on the rba deck. The Subtank plus holds quite a lot of juice as well. The Lemo and Lemo 2 both have great reviews although I've yet to get one myself.

Mod: If we're talking under $200 then there are a load of options. IPV3, IPV4, Segelei 50w/100w/150w. If you understand your batteries and builds then there's no reason not to get a mech. I love the nemesis personally. Also there are a lot of really good unregulated dual 18650/26650 boxes.

 

[Moaufan]

Hello hunt and welcome to the gang!

 

[ImSoToxik]

My current setup is the IPV3 150 Watt box, and a Little Boy RDA. I love this setup and it's not bad for price nor juice holding capabilities.

 

[TKS]

If you want a little future proofing and don't mind the slightly higher than expected price tag. You will hardly find more things that check off your list as much as a subtank mini or plus, paired up with a vaporshark dna40 mod.

Subtank for tons of flexibility and juice capacity/performance. And a vaporshark for great ergonomics and feel, with a good chip to make things hassle free as possible. Or if you want to take a plunge for under budget, substitute the vaporshark for an IPV4, cheaper and in my opinion better more quality controlled chip manufacturer based on my experience using an IPV3 device, and I think it does now more wattage than a DNA40 device.

At $90 dollars or so, that looks to be a great mod, hoping that the chip is non faulty (doesn't seem like they will use users as beta testers like the DNA40 did) and the hardware like magnet cover stays put fully unlike the vaporshark dna40(which is sad for a nearly $200 dollar device).

edit: correction, the IPv4 slaughters the DNA40 chip with 100 watts compared to 40. I believe 100 is a very nice sweet spot if you want to be safe and chuck clouds like a competition vaper, without having something blow up in your face hopefully.

Also I think the IPV4 is less than $90 in some places. And it holds 2 18650s!

 

[Baditude]

Rda/rta:
1. Rebuildable
2. Holds a fair amount of ejuice
3. Affordable/ accessible

Mod:
1. Variable wattage
2. Safe
3. Reads ohms/volts
4. Affordable/ accessible
(Or just a nice mech mod)

By affordable I mean total costing <$200

You realize you're all over the board in your preferences.

The only thing in common that a RDA has with a RTA is they are both use user made coils & wicks. User wise they are two entirely different animals. Do you know the difference? Information Resources for Your First RBA

The main differences in drippers is the number of posts (single, dual, quad) to attach the wire. Some have a deeper juice well to accommodate more wick/liquid. Some have adjustable air flow.

Tanks can be either a Genesis style (tank on bottom, building deck above the tank) or Kayfun style (tank on top, building deck below the tank). For all pratical purposes, a Kayfun is an improved design over a Genny, especially for a beginner to rebuildables.

You start out saying you want a variable wattage mod (a regulated APV), then say "Or just a nice mech mod".

A decent regulated mod "should" be safer than any mechanical mod, but there may be exceptions. istick 50 watt exploded

A safer mechanical mod would be an AltSmoke Silver Bullet, mainly because of its recessed fire button. Most mechs have a bottom firing button which could autofire the atomizer if the user is careless.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup

For my daily use, I use both a Silver Bullet with a Patriot RDA, and a Provari with a Kayfun Lite Plus RTA.

 

[Cannon from NJ]

My new setup is the istick 50w because it can accommodate a wide range of vaping styles and excellent battery life. I got the Subtank Mini for the tank and the option to rebuild, and the Mutation X V3 because of the deep juice wells and nice deck to build on. These are all high quality products with not so high price tags.

 

[Asbestos4004]

If you want a little future proofing and don't mind the slightly higher than expected price tag. You will hardly find more things that check off your list as much as a subtank mini or plus, paired up with a vaporshark dna40 mod.

Subtank for tons of flexibility and juice capacity/performance. And a vaporshark for great ergonomics and feel, with a good chip to make things hassle free as possible. Or if you want to take a plunge for under budget, substitute the vaporshark for an IPV4, cheaper and in my opinion better more quality controlled chip manufacturer based on my experience using an IPV3 device, and I think it does now more wattage than a DNA40 device.

At $90 dollars or so, that looks to be a great mod, hoping that the chip is non faulty (doesn't seem like they will use users as beta testers like the DNA40 did) and the hardware like magnet cover stays put fully unlike the vaporshark dna40(which is sad for a nearly $200 dollar device).

Lol...you went from vaporshark fan to vaporshark hater all in one post!
I love the vaporshark.....but if I needed to stay under 200 for a sub setup with ve, I'd probably look at the sigelei 150 with a Steamboat RDA. Its a tugboat v2 with a lower price tag.

 

[TKS]

@Asbestos4004

Funny how that works eh? =P

I am impartial to all until folks ask for a comparison. But pioneer4you has been delay gating the hell out of their new device so I couldn't remember how much they have changed since the initial offering.

 

[itskohler]

If you understand your batteries and builds then there's no reason not to get a mech. I love the nemesis personally. Also there are a lot of really good unregulated dual 18650/26650 boxes.

I'm going to have to disagree with this part right here. There are plenty of reasons not to get a mechanical mod over any regulated mod. For starters, power delivery is far more consistant with a regulated device. Mechanical mods will start at 4.2V then drop to 3.7V rather quickly and stay there for a while until its time to charge. Secondly, being your first time getting into rebuildables, a regulated device will prevent newbie mistakes from turning into disasters.

I love my mechanical mods, and have about 9 or 10 on the rack with just as many RDAs. But I also enjoy the smooth power delivery of a regulate mod. Then throw temperature comtrol in the mix and I really can't see why I would ever want to go back to a mechanical for anything other than looks.

I'm waiting for the IPV4, as a lot of people are. It cost me ~$75. For an RTA, I would highly recommend the Goblin, or Silverplay if you can find them.

 

[dmwalker24]

I don't disagree with the points you've made there itskohler. You're right about power drop and about protection and the tools built in to verify your build. I will say that I have no interest in nickle builds personally, and I find something about the way an unregulated device hits to be very satisfying. I find I'm still using a mech mod when my 50w regulated mod is sitting fully charged. It's just subjective preference I guess, and I can't really say why I find myself preferring the mechs.

 

[itskohler]

Ni200 is quite challenging, that is for sure. But once you get it down, it does quite well. I've ordered Titanium wire to give it a go, as it will function in the same manner as Ni200 on a temp sensing chip.

I do miss the simplicity and cloud chasing that my mechs provided. I get clouds, and flavor now, with the DNA40 chip, and a mech just can't match that with my line up.

 

[VapeSomaThis]

For juice capacity, you'd want an RTA, but for clouds you definitely want an RDA. As far as mods, its really depends on how you want to build. If you prefer higher ohms (0.5+), a variable wattage box mod is the way to go, but if you plan to build super low, it might not be worth the time unless its like 150-200W.

My suggestions:
RDA: Doge (clone?)
RTA: Too many good ones, search YouTube for RipTrippers or GrimGreen for a suggestion.

Mod:
Unregulated: Something with a Mosfet switch
Regulated: Sigelie 150W
Mech Mod: There's a lot of nice ones, but unless you're trying to get every ounce of performance from it, they're all going to work just as well. Just find a style and price-point that you like. I prefer something that I can set down without needing to lock