Newbie Sub-Ohm Questions

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Frenchfry1942

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I went to the website and took a look. If I understand correctly, I attach the volt meter, via 510 connection, to the Mech mod that has a battery in it. The volt meter will detect the battery and display the current volts? If that is the case, I use a calculator to adjust based upon y ohms and volts to determine where to set my watts.

Is that correct?
 

edyle

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Well yall convinced me, I probably wont use the battery or charger that came with the kit. I plan on checking out a local ecig store to see what they got battery and charger-wise. I also need an ohm reader so I will check that out too. How much should I spend on that (does it need to be a very nice one)?

I think you said you bought an rda and a mech mod? But I don't think you mentioned which rda or mech mod.

Also, I am wondering what gauge of kanthal wire you have; I'm not seeing that either.

And do you have a regulated mod.

For a first rda, I recommend using a regulated mod, 30gauge kanthal, single coil, 7 wraps on 2mm diameter.
Good safe place to get started; no fuss, no worries, and no jumping in the deep end.
 

edyle

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I got a Panzer clone and Nimbus RDA clone. 28 gauge kanthal. Organic cotton. The mod hasnt come in yet but I have been doing as much research as I can the past couple weeks to jump the upgrade to mechs from a couple cheap ego style mods.

The upgrade from an ego style battery is a regulated replaceable battery mod, such as a vamo, svd, zmax, provari, sigelei100 etc.

Going to a mech, is by no means an 'upgrade'.

If you have a regulated mod and you feel like checking your ohms, you just check it.

If you have a mech and an ohmmeter at home, then when you're out and about and feel like checking your ohms, you have to wait till you get home; or if you're home, you just don't bother because you don't feel like taking your topper off the mech to put it on the ohmmeter to check.
 

Rymesis

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A Mech is still an upgrade though....
After I've made a coil I can't say I've ever had the need or desire to check ohm's on my build;
If I feel like it's tasting weird, or been long enough for my OCD to kick in because of how my wick looks then I pull the wick out
dryburn the coil, wash with water, dryburn again until glowing orange then cool with a little water and rewick, in under 5 minutes it's good as new!

On the other side of things! You could get the CF mod or SubOhm battery from Aspire and get an Atlantis, 0.5 ohm and I'm satisfied with it and I was using a Magma dripper.
Prebuilt coils, and I do believe the CF mod and the Sub Ohm battery both have short protection.
 

xfrancis333

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Dec 15, 2014
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So if I purchase some 18650s, will the charger I got with the kit work for any battery? Or do I also need to purchase a charger?

This is exactly what I bought: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=191442628712

Also, what resistance coils can I build for the battery that comes with the kit? Just for if I use that battery a couple times. Im not planning on using it permenantly.
 

edyle

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So if I purchase some 18650s, will the charger I got with the kit work for any battery? Or do I also need to purchase a charger?

This is exactly what I bought: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=191442628712

Also, what resistance coils can I build for the battery that comes with the kit? Just for if I use that battery a couple times. Im not planning on using it permenantly.

The charger should charge at 4.2 volts for lithium batteries; yes it should work.

resistance for a mech mod: depends on the gauge of kanthal you are using

28 gauge - about 1 ohm
30 gauge - about 1.5 to 2 ohm
32 gauge - about 2 ohm
34 gauge - about 2.5 to 3 ohm
per single coil
 

edyle

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But resistance is also dependent on how long the kanthal is and a few other factors. But I cant seem to figure out how many Amps the battery with the kit can take. So I guess that is my real question.... How many amps is that battery? And the charger that comes with the kit is safe to use with say a vtc4?

The worst batterys in lithium would be like 2 amp batteries.

Chargers are something you'd want to get a good reputable charger in the long run; I like the ones that display voltage; there's the ones that actually cut off after charge and don't trickle charge.
 
I posted a similar question last week and what I have learned since then (largely due to the members on this site) may have saved me from blowing my teeth out of my mouth or blowing my hand off.

First, make sure you have a genuine battery, there seems to be more counterfeit batteries out there than genuines and they typically come included with a mod purchase.

Next make sure you have a good charger. A lot of cheap chargers will overcharge your battery and will shorten its lifespan and reduce its efficiency.

Third, keep asking questions and get second opinions on things. I was hustled big time by the place that sold me my mechanical mod on almost everything. Then found a pro shop that fixed and explained everything to me and was able to back it up with scientific proof, for free. They were truely concerned about my safety.

Anyways good luck. You're doing the next best thing coming here and asking questions.
 

edyle

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Thanks every one so much for the help! I ended up purchasing two efest purple 35a and am almost certain they are genuine. Also a trustfire-001 charger so I believe I got some pretty decent stuff maybe? Planning on buying some vg and some flavors to make my own juice. Hopefully Im not getting too far ahead of myself haha.

well maybe not the trustfire; don't trust a charger with fire in it; (I don't care much for the flame in the efest logo either but the efest's seem to work);

nitecore
xtar
pila

i think efest has a "Luc' charger with digital voltage display.
 
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