Got one in the mail, did ya lead-foot?
Kinda sounds like it. Doesn't it? And he thought just not washing the car tag would fool them.
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Kinda sounds like it. Doesn't it? And he thought just not washing the car tag would fool them.
Hey wiseguy,,,, don't let me come over there, I know where you live...
Glad to have ya over, Dave!
Make sure ya bring the Mrs. with ya so we can all sit down and talk about the little "trist" you had last month!
And make sure you wash your socks this time!
Smell like burnt rubber....
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LOL...wow, dead silence!
Don't take any of that seriously, Dave and I are friends.
We're slapping each other with "out of context" e-mails from HIS site, and laughing.
So everybody just relax and go about "finding the secret chip"....
Don't take any of that seriously, Dave and I are friends.
We're slapping each other with "out of context" e-mails from HIS site, and laughing.
So everybody just relax and go about "finding the secret chip"....
Feel like you been left out to dry?
LOL, it wouldn't be the first time Rocket.
Dave has a way of just "clamming-up" at the right moment.
He's "Watching TV, and checking back once in awhile..."
He's really enjoying this thread, though....
Are your still here Shek? Go make something or better yet go find me some more secret converters my friend...
P.S.
sssshhhhh, Don't tell the others. It's just between you and me. okay?
Hope they are all asleep by now
Sssssshhh...don't tell um I found the secret chips, Inspector Clue-seau!
It was just starting to get interesting....
http://redroom.com/files/images/dangling carrot_0.gif
It was just starting to get interesting....
http://redroom.com/files/images/dangling carrot_0.gif
breakthru, isn't that circuit limited to 6 amp through the switch?
Inductor switching current might be much higher than output current.
I think it is somewhat related to I(output max)= I(switch max) X (V(in/Vout).
Wouldn't that circuit be limited to about 3.75 amp @ 6 volts with 3.7 volts in
(with optimum L and C)?
Inductor switching current might be much higher than output current.
I think it is somewhat related to I(output max)= I(switch max) X (V(in/Vout).
Wouldn't that circuit be limited to about 3.75 amp @ 6 volts with 3.7 volts in
(with optimum L and C)?
Current capability can be increased by adding an external mosfet switched by the internal mosfet.
I was initially surprised by the increase in loss I saw on the bench as switching frequency went up. At one point, I wanted to build a booster with a very small inductor. I saw efficiency go down the toilet when switching frequencies got into the MHz. I've found the ideal frequency to be around 600KHz. Much higher and you sacrifice too much efficiency. Much lower and things start getting too big. We're talking about a buck converter here not boost, but I imagine you'd see the same thing since the only difference between them is the placement of the inductor, rectifier, and switch.
Buck and Boost both suffer switching losses, that's why the commercial devices are all around the 600kHz range, it seems to be the "sweet spot". I tend to lean towards the 300kHz range for higher efficiency still and remain in the .50 x .75 pcb area.
Do you mind sharing the type of booster for a single battery that could handle 1.5 ohm dual coils at around 4.5 volts that is only .50 x.75 in size sounds very interesting thanks.
I don't know of a commercial "off-the-shelf" module with that kind of power output. The PTN04050C is good for 12W, but you're looking for 13.5W. I build my own boost converters with 30W output capacity using one of the myriad of controller chips you can buy, that and a high drain LiPo flat cell to support the large input currents. Sounds like CapeCAD is also building his own DC-DC converters.
Craig is correct, I have been designing my own line of DC-DC converters. I have worked on Boost, Buck-Boost, and Sepic designs.
Component costs in small quantities for a miniature converter that achieves acceptable performance are prohibitive.
Component costs in small quantities for a miniature converter that achieves acceptable performance are prohibitive.
Yes, it is relatively expensive to make your own. You'll spend twice as much just on the parts. Then you need to make the PCBs or pay to have them made. However, if you want something custom, that's what you have to do. The modules you can buy are quite a deal if they suit your needs, highly compact too. Unfortunately, I have yet to see an off-the-shelf boost module with higher output power. You'd think there'd be a demand for that kind of thing, but I guess not.
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