Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

[mamu]

Not sure if someone has stated this before but what is the best gauge wire to use for this build? I have 16, 18, and 20 all stranded. I've seen 22, 20, and 18 used in different parts of the build all from different people.

Wiring gauge guide written in the lower right corner of the wiring diagram posted in the OP.

18AWG: input/output (+/- atty connector, +/- batt, P-FET Drain and Source, and Vin/Vout/GND at the board)

All remaining wiring: 24AWG

 

[sdbam21]

Wiring gauge guide written in the lower right corner of the wiring diagram posted in the OP.

18AWG: input/output (+/- atty connector, +/- batt, P-FET Drain and Source, and Vin/Vout/GND at the board)

All remaining wiring: 24AWG

Thanks Mamu!! I didn't see that. This will be my first build so I'm a little nervous and want everything to be right.

 

[sdbam21]

I have a few questions regarding some issues that I have with my wiring. I know Mamu said 24g and 18g are the best for the build. I have 22 and 18 on hand. My local Home Depot doesnt have anything smaller than 20. I haven't tried Radio Shack. When I was soldering this weekend the 22g was was melting inside out. It's left over wire from installing ceiling fans. They are rated at 600v and 105C. The only soldering iron I have is a 110v at 60w. Logic tells me I'm getting the core too hot. But if I don't get it hot enough the solder won't melt or hold to the wire. Can you give me some guidance or point me in the right direction to get the guidance.

Next question how do I wire the below button?? I've search but can't find a diagram for it. I couldn't find one on mouser or digiKey. There are 4 prongs. A + - and not sure what other 2 would be wired to. Please help!

Digikey PN: PV6F240SS-341


I wanted to have it done so could enjoy this awesome build. I'm determined to get it and can't give up.

Thank you in advance!!!

 

[carlsoti]

Try "tinning" the wire and all solder points first. Then, all you have to do is tack the parts together.

 

[carlsoti]

This may be a dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. Is there a dropping resistor used on the FET, as one would with an unregulated set-up? I haven't seen any reference to it, but there are a few pics in the thread where people have used one.

 

[nattyboh]

Mamu, after all of your better testing which one would you recommend for use and where did you get it?

Do you still only recommend the batteries in the Op? What about the VC4 for a little more mah over the vc3?

 

[mamu]

This may be a dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. Is there a dropping resistor used on the FET, as one would with an unregulated set-up? I haven't seen any reference to it, but there are a few pics in the thread where people have used one.

There is no resistor across G-S on the P-FET. There is a 47K resistor across G-S on the N-FET though if you're using the no idle current drain circuit.

Mamu, after all of your better testing which one would you recommend for use and where did you get it?

Do you still only recommend the batteries in the Op? What about the VC4 for a little more mah over the vc3?

The current batteries I use are Sony VTC3, VTC4, and LG HE2. There are others that seem to be equally good (Samsung 20R, Samsung 25R, and several re-branded VTC and LG HE2).

 

[nattyboh]

Thank you Mamu. I went with the VC4 batteries.

 

[carlsoti]

Thanks, mamu. I am using the SUP75P03 P-ch MOSFET. Am I correct in the belief that I still need the 4.7k dropping resistor between the "on/off" and "gnd" tab on the board as shown in the OP? My intent is to build it "mostly" per that diagram. I'm using the fuses, but omitting the reverse polarity LED and master switch. I have a tendency of pulling my batteries out of the mod any time I'm not using it, even in unregulated and fully mechanical mods. Once this first build is done, I'll look at packing in some of the other features. FWIW, this is for personal use only. You should have no concerns that I'm sending "unsafe" mods to unsuspecting customers.

 

[wavefanatic]

First of all, thanks to Mamu and all the contributors on this thread for sharing all the info on this build..

I have already built my first Raptor mod, but ran across space issues on a Hammond 1591A box. I was planning on using a 4 cell lipolys at 7.4v. Unfortunately, I only have space for maybe 3 cells. If i configure the batteries to 3 cells in series going to 11.1v, the only thing I would have to change from the originally designed circuit would be the zener, right? Maybe a 10v or 9.3v zener ?

On another note, would running this on batteries configured at 11 volts 800mah significantly last longer than 7.4 volts at 800mah? That could be a dumb question, but thought I would ask anyway.

For now, I'm running this on 2s lipolys and loving it.
Thanks again...

 

[carlsoti]

if you calculate the difference in watt hours between the 2s and 3s packs, you can see that there may well be a difference in how long it would last, but in practice, it might not be as much as the math says. I seem to recall from the spec sheet that the raptor chip is more efficient at higher input voltage, but I could be wrong about that.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Buck converters are almost all if not all more efficient when the input voltage is closer to the output voltage. Less losses in the inductor and switch (mosfet)

 

[carlsoti]

My second mod build ever. First was an unregulated mosfet dual 18650 in a Hammy 1590g box. This one is regulated with a Naos Raptor 20A chip. It's a custom enclosure that I'm trying to get mass produced. It's kinda like pulling the teeth of a drunken chimpanzee. After completing this build, I realized I don't really like building these. I just can't make it as tidy as I'd like to be able to. It's been over a decade since I laid wires in the guts of Hafler Professional amps. Maybe I just need to kick out a few dozen of these a day and get my practices and procedures nailed down. Or maybe I need to make a PCB that all the guts mount to, and the wires just plug into the board....

 

[rhelton]

Looks good, and if you check over on reddit there are break out boards for 2 or 3 bucks each I think.

 

[carlsoti]

thanks. I still haven't figured out how to use reddit. I'm getting old.

 

[rhelton]

Buck converters are almost all if not all more efficient when the input voltage is closer to the output voltage. Less losses in the inductor and switch (mosfet)

Im not sure what you mean. With a Raptor which is a buck converter its most efficient when the input voltage is 6v and you have it set for 6v. I think that the higher the IV the more stable the OV will be.

Maybe not

 

[rhelton]

Here is a 10a https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/2pwhnj/revised_okr_breakout_board/

and here's a 20a https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/2ooto8/raptor_breakout_board/

there is a few more I remember seeing them just have to poke around im getting tired so.

Goodnight!

 

[texanator]

Last August I contacted Keystone Electronics and urged them to make dual 26650 caddies.
After discussing the details in few emails, they eventually offered to make them and sell
me 1000 of them... Quite a few too many... So I declined.

Well, I just received this email from them:

NEW IN 2015!

(Digikey and Mouser taking advance orders now - they both should have stock in several weeks.)
Keystone Part numbers
-1109 (Dual 26650 Sled with Solder-Mount Contacts)
-1108 (Dual 26650 Sled with Surface-Mount Contacts)
-1047 (Dual 18650 Sled with Solder-Mount Contacts)
-1044 (Single 18650 Sled with Solder-Mount Contacts)
-1107-1 (Solder-Mount Contact)
-This contact will be included on the 1109, 1047, and 1044. It is especially made for vaporizers/box mods.
The design makes it easier to attach wires to the sled and the plating is more resilient to allow for multiple battery insertions.
-1098 (Dual 18350 Sled)
-1096 (Single 18350 Sled)


Current Keystone Sleds and Clips Used in Vaporizers & Mods
-1048 (Dual 18650 Sled) *TOP SELLER*
-1049 (Dual 18650 Sled)
-1042 (Single 18650 Sled)
-1043 (Single 18650 Sled)
- 54 (18650 Clip)
- 86 *uninsulated* and 87 *insulated* (26650 Clip)
- 58 (Polarity Label)
Polarity is indicated on the sleds themselves but as it is molded into the nylon and is black-on-black,
it is not visible enough for users who switch out batteries multiple times. These stickers help prevent
users inserting the batteries in the wrong direction and frying the unit.


I don't have their dual 26650 sled on hand, so I can't verify dimensions and how it fits in a Hammond 1590-B.

 

[erwincl56]

Great Mod mamu, most of the diagram is clear except I can't figure out where the 2x22uF capacitors go. I assume the have something to do with input, and how do you wire in the voltmeter. I hope it's not stairing me right in the face, but I'm not seeing it. Thanks

 

[Greg Figlar]

Great Mod mamu, most of the diagram is clear except I can't figure out where the 2x22uF capacitors go. I assume the have something to do with input, and how do you wire in the voltmeter. I hope it's not stairing me right in the face, but I'm not seeing it. Thanks

Yes it does it goes from the v in to the grd and the volt meter you wire one power lead to pos batt the other to v out and ground to 510