New Youde RTA the Bellus

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TheKman

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Nov 12, 2015
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John, colour me impressed... 65W into two 2mm coils is some serious wicking power. I pushed my two 3.5mm coils to 75W, and it performs, but with the restricted air flow the vape was to hot for me.

I get what you mean about the surgeon thing, will post picks of what I mean before I try your build next. :)
 
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Filippo

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Nov 17, 2015
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Hi guys i'm back!!
So I kinda found i way to prevent my bellus from leaking!
Basically i can say this:
Build wide (from post to post) enough to cover the whole length of the air hole!
Now if you're using 50/50 vg-pg I recommend long wicks to the bottom of the deck
If using higher vg juices short wicks!
This is my deck when using 80-20 vg pg

485048948236969d564b90366c522f26.jpg



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roxynoodle

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Jun 19, 2014
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Those coils are too small 2.4 mm 26g so i get dry hits at 55-60 watts

I was thinking at something around 3mm maybe a bit more and 24 or 22 G
what do you guys recommend trying??


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Why do you need to vape it at 55W? If the flavor is good below that, isn't that ok? I'm vaping mine at 50W, but if it vaped well at less I wouldn't mind.
 
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Croak

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Right behind you...
I reckon that's too much cotton Filippo. I'm pushing 70W through two 2.7mm coils at the moment (iteration 764...) with what seems like half the cotton you have.

That's five spaced turns of 26g titanium @ 0.12 Ohms, btw.

Are you REALLY getting 70 steady watts out of that (fairly small coil mass) build? On the Bellus I usually run 8-10 2.5mm wraps of 26ga Ti01 (0.16 to 0.18 ohms) and with temps just north of 500F mark. That's a warm to hot vape depending on airflow, and almost twice your coil mass. Even so, 35-40 watts (or joules) is more than enough, and once it's up to temp it only takes 20ish watts to maintain, if you have a mod with preheat or initial strength boost it ramps quick too.

I'm assuming you're using temp control and not wattage mode with your Ti build.
 
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TheKman

Master of the Obvious
Nov 12, 2015
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Melbourne, Australia.
Are you REALLY getting 70 steady watts out of that (fairly small coil mass) build? ...
I'm assuming you're using temp control and not wattage mode with your Ti build.

Yup, circa 65W on a mech, 70W tc steady. Just trying to find the optimal power for this unit. I built it for a mech and use tc to test the configuration. The goal is to get the mech build to vape the same as it does on a tc mod.
 

roxynoodle

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I might actually try a build today that will use less power than the one I have in my silver Bellus. I know this atty is capable of tootling so why do another 50W or higher build? Maybe I'll use that 28/32 clapton wire I made and 2.5mm coils. Then again those would be the builds in the Crius' so maybe I'll come up with something I haven't done.
 
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TheKman

Master of the Obvious
Nov 12, 2015
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Melbourne, Australia.
@Croak: What I think you're trying to say is that a constant power configuration won't work the same as a tc mod configuration, which is, of course, correct.

What I'm attempting to do is use titanium in a pseudo tc configuration for mechs. Not a constant power built. Bearing in mind that the power drawn by the coils will vary based on the temperature they reach (temperature dependent resistance), which is a function of how much juice and air reach the coils. More juice flow to the coil/wick and more air contact through flow/pressure means the power drawn with vary widely in a constant voltage configuration (well, as close as is practical in a mech). In this way we can design with both TC and mech in mind. Titanium given me a fast ramp time for reaching temperature and once I start drawing air through, it quickly reaches acquiescence. I haven't developed a formula for this design, there are too many variable to consider, but through trial and error I can hone in on the optimum power for a given tank using a tc mod as the test bed.

So far I've optimised power for six tanks this way, all of which can be used on a mech or TC mod and perform more or less the same with air flow wide open. Subtank Nano (rebuilt V2 coil), Subtank Mini RBA, eGo One, eGo One Mega (both rebuilt CLR coils), Zephyrus and Goblin Mini. The Bellus is simply the latest addition.

I could wring 75W out of this unit, but I wouldn't be able to top fill it without leaking using a wick density capable of this power. Balancing air flow, coil size/area, wick area, wick density, juice viscosity and power has lead me to the current configuration: dual 2.7mm ID 26g titanium coils of five wraps @ 0.12 Ohms (0.124 according to the design calculations), filled with a very light, #400 stainless steel mesh reinforced Japanese cotton wick trimmed to the lower lip of the juice channels. In this configuration I can push 70W through it in tc mode @290 degrees Celcius, or what I estimate to be about 65W on a full charged tube mech.

By reducing the coil size to 2.5mm I could reach a target resistance capable of 70W, but so far I haven't been able to wick enough juice through a coil this size to handle it. The only other way I can see this workingon a mech, is using a dual parallel battery mech to reduce voltage sag under load. Unless John can educate me on his mega wicking power! :)
 
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roxynoodle

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That's a sexy looking tank now Roxy.

My black Youde glass finally came in from FT today, took over a month. And one of the two was crushed to powder. :(

I'm always amazed when glass tanks from FT arrive as they're supposed to. They did a horrible job packing that 5pk of clear glass. I was sure all that clinking as I began unpacking was broken glass and was quite amazed it was all good.

Now that I see the black glass fits well and the black doesn't wash off the glass, I'll get another 1 or 2.
 

nmeuvdast8

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Oct 28, 2015
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So Ive decided to rebuild my Bellus tank with a single coil Gauge 24 SS wire, 8loops on a 2.5mm diameter jig. Checking the resistance with my ohm meter, it was around 0.32ohms. Wicked it, primed it and assembled it onto the tank. Once installed on my mod, it read a resistance of 0.07ohms. So I tried to test the reading again with the ohm meter and it was the same 0.07ohm.

I disassembled the deck and tried to read the resistance with my ohm meter and it was 0.32ohms. Assembled it again and check the resistance with the ohm meter and it was again 0.07ohms! I disassembled it again and srewed the deck on to the ohm meter and check the resistance, it was 0.32ohm. LOL

Turned the ohm meter off and snapped the tank (without the base cap) then check the reading, it was 0.32ohm. I removed the deck and screwed the base cap then check the reading again, it was 0.07ohms. I unscrewed the base cap and put the deck on to the ohm meter, guess what, it read 0.32ohms. I decided to snap the tank on to the deck and still it was 0.32ohms. I tried pressing down the tank on to the deck while installed on my ohm meter, it read 0.07ohm. It seems that the variance in resistance was due to the tightening of the base cap.

I tried adjusting the coil by centering it through the AFC, and I still got the same 0.07ohms reading. I retightened the pole screws and nothing changed. In the end, i decided to recoil and and it was fine at the first try.

Did any of you encountered this? I am dumbfounded on what caused this variation in reaistance with the base cap on.

Also, I tried changing juice (different brand but same composition of 80VG and 20PG), using the same wicking method, I get dry hits on the new juice. It seemes that with the new juice, the tank is losing pressure with this new juice which is quite unusual.

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