Nope! Just popped it on to test it and see how it works. It's a two piece type of design. The silicone piece prevents juice to the channels, and on top of that goes the metal piece that block the airflow.Have you run it single coil?
Nope! Just popped it on to test it and see how it works. It's a two piece type of design. The silicone piece prevents juice to the channels, and on top of that goes the metal piece that block the airflow.Have you run it single coil?
Any chance you would be willing to run a single and let us know how compares?Nope! Just popped it on to test it and see how it works. It's a two piece type of design. The silicone piece prevents juice to the channels, and on top of that goes the metal piece that block the airflow.
I would, but to be honest, I'm a dual coil kinda guy. So I really wouldn't be able to give you an unbiased opinion on it lol.Any chance you would be willing to run a single and let us know how compares?
Don't like TC either, or I'd test it out for you guys too (too cold of a vape for me)
Yea lol. My ideal build is a dual coil .3 24ga kanthal. My taste buds suck, so I need a real warm dense vape to get flavor to pop.That warm huh?
Yea lol. My ideal build is a dual coil .3 24ga kanthal. My taste buds suck, so I need a real warm dense vape to get flavor to pop.
I threw an ni200 build in my KS RTA last night to give TC another chance, and I bumped it to 60 watts, 550 degrees and that was -okay- lol. But I can't help but feel that there's no point in doing that, because if cotton burns at ~420 degrees and I have it set to 550 - it can still burn up cotton like kanthal, right? I dunno, maybe it's just me!
No it's not just you. I do like temp builds, but they don't give that same vape kanthal does. For me nickel is a very clean, predictable and safe vape, kanthal is a bit rougher and a bit more of an animal that you need to know how to handle, but once it's trained can be a joy to work with.Yea lol. My ideal build is a dual coil .3 24ga kanthal. My taste buds suck, so I need a real warm dense vape to get flavor to pop.
I threw an ni200 build in my KS RTA last night to give TC another chance, and I bumped it to 60 watts, 550 degrees and that was -okay- lol. But I can't help but feel that there's no point in doing that, because if cotton burns at ~420 degrees and I have it set to 550 - it can still burn up cotton like kanthal, right? I dunno, maybe it's just me!
How do you like that KS RTA? I thought about getting a tobeco clone at a B&M near me, but the draw seemed a bit tight for my liking.I actually used an ni200 build in my KS RTA for 2 weeks and was in love with it. Then I figured out why - it was a .15 build that, when I locked in the resistance the first time, I must have hit the fire button for a fraction of a second (sigelei 75 watt is tricky locking resistance) and the device was reading it at .17. At 460 degrees, that was warmer than my kanthal build in there, with ridiculous flavor.
I'm assuming that since the resistance was off, so was the temperature reading. I realized it when I went to rebuild it with the exact same build and locked in the resistance properly lol.
I like it. Don't pay more than ~$15 for it tho. I've broke 3 of the tanks lol.How do you like that KS RTA? I thought about getting a tobeco clone at a B&M near me, but the draw seemed a bit tight for my liking.
Yeah, I think they wanted $25 for it, so I passed. I have too many RTAs as it is, and the Bellus pre-ordered.I like it. Don't pay more than ~$15 for it tho. I've broke 3 of the tanks lol.
It's made of PMMA as opposed to polycarbonate, so it's more fragile. Each time I've broken it, it's not from tank cracking liquids, it's from applying pressure to it (pressing on it to screw it into place, popping the snug drip tip on it etc). It's fine as long as you're very careful with it.
It's a tighter draw than I like normally, but a .5 24g build in there gives me a nice warm vape. Pretty good flavor too. It's a very restrictive lung hit/airy MTL. Great $15 RTA to me!
It's not a massive problem though, 20 second job if that. At least you can access the deck without draining the tank, which is a big pro in my bookSeems you'll have to unscrew the tank from your mod in order to access the build deck. Am I correct? That's a definitive con for me.
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
I prefer to not have to remove the tank from the mod at all. I basically don't use tanks where I have to do that anymore. Just my preference I guess.It's not a massive problem though, 20 second job if that. At least you can access the deck without draining the tank, which is a big pro in my book![]()
I know what you're saying, but I guess the way I look at it, because it's top fill, the only time you'd need to access the deck is to re wick/coil which wouldn't be that often compared to filling.I prefer to not have to remove the tank from the mod at all. I basically don't use tanks where I have to do that anymore. Just my preference I guess.
I too prefer tanks where the deck can be accessed without draining the tank. Phasing out ones where that can't be done, and refuse to use anything that needs a screwdriver to fill.
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk