NextGen Atomizer

[TrollDragon]

The 510 threads needs to be real tight, but then the post is too small to make it so. When I unscrew the cap to refil there is a real possibility that I am loosening the deck or even the 510 thread, making it leak.. Could this be a design flaw?

Yes it is a poor implementation, but I have not found a problem with it yet.

The top cap really does not need to be cranked on that tight. You could always use a little Loctite thread locker on the post just where the base threads and the 510 post mesh, but I don't think that is necessary.

I use a little lip balm on all my o-rings in my tanks as it makes them much easier to get apart.

The Nivea Men Active Care which has no fragrance, flavor, color or shine components. I searched for a Burt's Bees like Qorax uses on all of his o-rings, but cannot find an unflavored one locally.

Just put a little around the top o-ring and install your cap.

 

[TrollDragon]

Rebuilt the NG this evening with a new unoxidized 400 mesh wick measuring 18x40mm. I used a small piece of torched 2.5mm Ekowool as a sleeve over the mesh and wrapped that with 5 wraps of 30g. It measures 1.5Ω and is nice stable vape at 15W, resistance has not jumped and no hot spots or legs. We will see what happens to that when it comes time to dry burn and rinse under water. The quality of vape is very good from the NG but the amount of work involved to get it built is just not worth the hassle IMHO.

I had high hopes for this atty and probably won't seek out a Yeahsmo version or any other one down the road. The no leak feature is excellent but my Origenny provides a much better vape is easier to build and I am quite used to keeping it upright when taking it with me. I do have a Kraken and Sat22 coming so they will be taking up my future genny building and tinkering time.

 

[cobalt327]

Good job sciencing out a 30g build that actually vapes! But I agree- too much time and trouble for no actual advantage over the attys I use daily (Aqua v2 and KFv4 mostly). I'll pull it back out when I get a TP mod built, until then I'm parking it.

 

[cobalt327]

So after waiting for the Ultra slow shipping from Gearbest, a bit over a month, and I paid $5.00 extra for the so-called express, USPS took 3 days rest of the time was GB Express shipping. The SXK which was FALSELY advertised as a Yeahsmo Nextgen arrived today. To add insult to injury it arrived as shown below

As far as I know they still have the Nextgen advertised falsely as a Yeahsmo when it is indeed the SXK. So just be aware, you won't be getting what you paid for from these Crooks.

I just realized that the presale KFv4 (Kayfun V4 Style E - Cigarette Atomizer-16.49 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com I bought from GB way back in Dec. of 2014 is not the same as the one shown. Mine is not bead blasted- it's 'as-machined', i.e. shinier than the one shown. And my tank is polycarbonate, whereas the one shown is PMMA (although the now-available black and gold versions show PC tanks). In this case, the differences are actually in my favor- but the fact remains they did falsely represent what they were selling.

 

[cobalt327]

I decided to give the NG another go. I used torched Ecowool over just the exposed portion of the recycled-from-the-last-build 18mm-long 400 mesh wick. Followed that up w/5 turns of 30g Kanthal and it came in at 1.8 ohms. That's actually higher than I wanted so next time I'll go w/4 turns of 30g or even back to 6 turns of 28gfor around 1.4-1.5 ohms. But for proof of concept, it's a success.

This atty would be a natural for a mod that had a Yihi board w/the "Powerful" setting because the coil is a little slow to get up to vaping temp due to the heat sink effect of the mesh wick unless I bump up the wattage higher than I normally use for a given build. That's not an issue unless I take a long draw, which can get a bit too hot at the end.

 

[TrollDragon]

Excellent!
I am glad to see you have a working non sub ohm 30g build. The Ekowool is not the answer but a really easy workaround.


I even put a wick of Ekowool in my Origenny the other night. I left a little extra in the tank bottom and made a small mesh straw to go inside the top. Wrapped in 0.5mm ribbon, it wicks great, has excellent flavor and you don't have to tilt it to vape the tank dry.

 

[cobalt327]

Basically copied your build except I didn't use Ecowool over the whole length of the mesh. And maybe you used the wool on just the exposed mesh in which case I copied you almost exactly! I think the difference in resistance is because my wick is fatter at the top where the Kanthal is wrapped.

 

[WattWick]

Silly idea of the day: Given a high enough resistance wire, it could be possible to coil around the center post, wrap mesh around it - enough to contact the center tube... and... well... profit? If the mesh wants to conduct... Why not just let it?

 

[TrollDragon]

Basically copied your build except I didn't use Ecowool over the whole length of the mesh. And maybe you used the wool on just the exposed mesh in which case I copied you almost exactly! I think the difference in resistance is because my wick is fatter at the top where the Kanthal is wrapped.

I just put the Ekowool over the exposed mesh at the top as well. My 30g is probably a 5/4 wrap on 3mm and if yours is a 5/4 wrap on 3.5mm that would give you the 1.8Ω.

Either way it's better than those annoying 0.5Ω builds.

My Origenny with the Ekowool over mesh wick was given a dry burn and rinse today, cleaning off gunky juice mess. The wick survived nicely so I am assuming that the NG will do the same when it's time comes.

It is absolutely amazing how much juice a 2.5mm hollow Ekowool wick holds when your trying to vape a tank dry.

 

[cobalt327]

Silly idea of the day: Given a high enough resistance wire, it could be possible to coil around the center post, wrap mesh around it - enough to contact the center tube... and... well... profit? If the mesh wants to conduct... Why not just let it?

I'll have to give this some thought- who knows, you could be onto something! But I have to say using the Ecowool over mesh (EOM?) build TD came up with seems to be what works best for me- at least so far. In any event now I can do a build with the resistance I want that "comes in" immediately instead of doing that frustrating *pulse/hot leg/pulse/check atty/pulse/burned out coil* BS I was going through before, in order to get the coil to heat evenly.

The 1.8 ohm 30g single strand EOM build gunked up a lot after a couple tanks but I chalk that up mostly to the custardy juice I used. I just changed from the 1.8 ohm build to a twisted 32g 1.3 ohm EOM build (rinsed and reused the Ecowool and mesh w/o retorching as an experiment) and it's doing fine so far.

 

[TrollDragon]

Excellent!
We shall call it the NextGen EOM build.

 

[ccwaters]

Fasttech has listed another Nextgen, does not appear to be Yeahsmo, it does however appear that it may have a PEEK insulator.

 

[TrollDragon]

And the largest air hole is just one big hole and not two this time.
So who is going to get one to check out?

 

[cobalt327]

Not me- the one I have from GB has satisfied my curiosity. But if I didn't have it I would buy the FT version- I think it has more potential.

 

[TrollDragon]

A little thread resurrection...

I fixed my spinning pin with a little JB Weld Kwik but regular JB Weld would work as well, just take longer to set.

1. Pushed out the center pin / insulator out of the 510 connector.
2. Cut a little notch on the end of the nylon insulator to provide a sort of keyway, this should stop the insulator from turning if the JB Weld does not stick to the nylon.
3. Unscrew the insulator from the center pin, make sure the pin threads, insulator and 510 connector hole are clean and dry.
4. Mix up your JB Weld and apply a little to the inside of the plastic insulators threads at the 510 connector end. (Shown in red on the picture.) Screw the insulator back onto the pin and clean up the excess JB Weld on the end.
5. Put some JB Weld around the sides of the insulator no more than half way up the length.
6. Push the pin / insulator back into the 510 connector, clean up the excess from the end and make sure there isn't any JB Weld on the 510 connectors threads. You can clamp the center section in a small vise applying pressure inwards on the pin till set with a small vise if you wish.
7. After the JB Weld is set, clean off any excess epoxy from the 510 pin with a small file or emery cloth.

Here is my base, it's a little rough but it does not leak anymore or spin.

I still cannot get a mesh only build on this atty, I played with it half the day today trying numerous mesh wicks with no joy. So I went back to the working EOM build and it is now full and vaping perfectly. There is no taste from the JB Weld as it only goes halfway up the 510 connector and the juice does not come into contact with it. Also JB Weld can withstand 500F so dry burning and rinsing is ok. (JB Weld FAQ's).

Here is my EOM build with 0.5mm x 0.1mm ribbon Kanthal at 1.6Ω, working great with MaxVG juice and 20W.

 

[cobalt327]

I'm still vaping on the coil and wick I built 06-16 (also EOM, 32g two strand twisted @ 1.3 ohms/14.5 watts). I have torched/dry burned it three times now (just finished the third cleaning today). I'm getting about four tanks before cleaning the wick/coil. This is a LOT better than what I was getting in the beginning when I was struggling to use a 'traditional' mesh and coil build- using just mesh and coil w/o Ecowool the flavor would begin to drop off after just half of a tank. Not to mention the hassle getting the damn thing to heat evenly, etc. I can honestly say if not for the EOM build, I'd have parked my Nextgen- most likely for good. But that tiny bit of Ecowool has made it into an enjoyable atomizer that stays in rotation and holds its own compared to my KFv4s and Aqua v2s. The only mod I made was to open one of the two largest air holes to 1/16". The juice holes are stock and have been working w/juice as thick as 30/70, which is the thickest I use in any of my tanks.

 

[northhar]

I have a build 1.6ohm 30g kantal with a 200mesh/400mesh I managed to get working at the end of may.. I have cleaned it, dry burned it 3 times and it has stayed true.. It vapes great..
I ordered another rec'd that one middle june.. tried a 400 mesh build 30g and could not get it to settle down.. I did try the mesh in mesh build again, but it would not settle also.. Figured I got lucky the first time.. So I went with the EOM build and have been using it since without further problems.. So Thanks for the idea @TrollDragon.. It makes for a simple build ..
I am very happy with these nextgens, just fill and vape daily for weeks..

 

[TrollDragon]

You are most welcome @cobalt327 and @northhar but I think the veteran Genny users have run EOM builds for years. I just got tired of fighting with something that should have been easy to build and vape.

If they would have coated that center post with an Ematal type non conductive coating like the Squape has, or moved the center post off center so it could be wicked like any other Genny with only the mesh in the hole. That would have been so much better and easier to work with. Maybe on the Nextgen V2, but I doubt there will be one of those.

So we have an easy fix called EOM, it works first time and the vape is excellent.
Enjoy!

 

[cobalt327]

I decided to use a coil made from triple 34 gauge twisted Kanthal to see how it works. It's working okay but truth be told I like the 32 gauge double twisted Kanthal a bit better. Three turns of 3 x 34 gauge wire gave me 0.7 ohm, the 2 x 32 gauge wire was 1.3 ohm. The biggest problem for me revolves around the large 'heat sink' effect this atty has. It takes a lot longer to heat up compared to a normal build unless I jack the power way up. If not for that it would score higher with me. I want to try some ribbon- that seems like the logical next step. All I have on hand is 0.3 x 0.1mm (I use this for Protank 2 heads) so I need some wider ribbon.

 

[cobalt327]

The 3 x 34 g just didn't pan out. So I went back to the 2 x 32 g until I get some different ribbon to try. I don't have any real genesis atty experience, so I don't know what the difference is between the NG and another genie atty but I suspect the NG design will always be limited by the heat sink effect- the price paid for having that centrally located post. But if having that type center post means not having to tip it and to be leak-free, it's a good tradeoff for how I vape. That's if I understand how a regular genesis atty works. But like TD mentioned, making the center post non conductive except for the attachment points for the coil and battery would make the NG as close to perfect as it can be.

Off topic, I have a Kraken that I've always wicked using rayon. I think I'll dust it off and try a mesh build on it...