tm - honestly, I didnt even test it. Five coil on cobra with 28g is autopilot for me. I just threw it on a mechanical and pulse it to get an even coil glow...But Tomcatt's coil calculator (PV Web Apps) says it should be ~.8 or .9 ohms.
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tm - honestly, I didnt even test it. Five coil on cobra with 28g is autopilot for me. I just threw it on a mechanical and pulse it to get an even coil glow...But Tomcatt's coil calculator (PV Web Apps) says it should be ~.8 or .9 ohms.
You probably already tried it if you ever use a standard atty. This foam is used in all the standard attys we have used for years. Alloy? 99.9%NI
Happy to see you guys having some success. Looking forward to getting mine. Still want the 1.6mm in the future.
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Great posts to all of you mad scientists. I haven't tried it yet, but, I am going to try the rolling paper/petar k method. I don't do low ohm, so I will go for around 1.4 with 30 gauge round in an Igo L or maybe my aga t. If I have any luck I will post pics.
You probably already tried it if you ever use a standard atty. This foam is used in all the standard attys we have used for years. Alloy? 99.9%NI
Happy to see you guys having some success. Looking forward to getting mine. Still want the 1.6mm in the future.
it's in stock now!
here Nickel Foam for Battery Cathode Substrate (1m length x 300mm width x 1.6mm thickness) - EQ-bcnf-16m
but not suitable for individual orders
but not suitable for individual orders
You probably already tried it if you ever use a standard atty. This foam is used in all the standard attys we have used for years. Alloy? 99.9%NI
Happy to see you guys having some success. Looking forward to getting mine. Still want the 1.6mm in the future.
That being said, I've never seriously used a standard atty for long.
Ordered some. Should be here soon.
OK folks. My feeble attempt with this stuff:
Using 33mmx10mm strip. Rolled semi tight to fit a rsst.
torched business end to burn off any residue.
inserted into tank
wrapped a 4/3 wrap with torched,twisted 32ga k1, 1.1 ohms.
pulsed for about 1 minute
filled with well steeped juice
seems to be working very well, so far.
Lacking flavor, but I think it will come around when broken in.
Will report later with all day use.
Had to add, this was my first attempt
Pics, before and after
Using 33mmx10mm strip. Rolled semi tight to fit a rsst.
torched business end to burn off any residue.
inserted into tank
wrapped a 4/3 wrap with torched,twisted 32ga k1, 1.1 ohms.
pulsed for about 1 minute
filled with well steeped juice
seems to be working very well, so far.
Lacking flavor, but I think it will come around when broken in.
Will report later with all day use.
Had to add, this was my first attempt
Pics, before and after
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That looks nice. Keep us posted on how it works for you. Do you have to tilt it for it to wick, any dry hits?
Success! 1/8 inch foam, #30 Ga round Kanthal A-1 , 5/6 wrap over a single thread of boiled cheesecloth. After pulsing for about a minute to burn-off the cheesecloth & set the coil - no hot-spots. This gave me a 1.9 Ω coil, which is more than I usually run, but I want to use it in some VV/VW mods to give it a good test.
So far, wicking like a champ - no tilting required, and no dry-hits, even with a half-filled tank. Nice vapor production, and flavor isn't bad at all, but from my previous experience with stainless wicks, will probably get a little better.
So...here's what I've noticed so far;
Ribbon wire may not be the best for these wicks because it seems to "bite" into the foam & cause shorts. Round wire works very well.
Don't wrap them super tight (see above). I'm so used to trying to wrap ceramic wicks as tight as I can, that I was actually screwing these wicks up ... even contact across the coil & wick are ideal - either a cheesecloth wrap, or your favorite thin insulating materiel work well to keep the shorts to a minimum.
The Petar-K/drillbit method is ideal for this materiel - trying to wrap them on the foam will just lead to frustration & crumbled wicks....and shorts.
NO vape-lag -(a common problem with larger ceramic or stainless wicks). Hit the button - instant vapor. The foam wick gets hot immediately, and cools down just as fast. It might eliminate the darkening/burned-juice in the tank problem due to the hot wick cooking the juice...but won't be able to confirm that until I go through a tank.
It seems to deliver nicotine VERY efficiently... you might have to cut back your percentage of nic..or it might just be me, but I noticed this phenomenon after vaping with it for about 15 min....
Overall, not bad. I think with some different techniques to take advantage of the unique properties of this stuff could deliver major dividends. I don't know if it will match the white ceramic wicks with some more tweaking...but IMHO, it already beats Stainless Steel as a wicking material hands-down.
As an "acid test" - I'm running it with a juice that can be pretty nasty with some wicks (a pear/pineapple/tobacco DIY). With this wick, the flavors are very clean, with no metallic taste at all - with stainless, this juice tastes like you're vaping aluminum foil.... good sign. I also noticed that it delivers a much cooler vape, but that might be due to running a higher Ω coil than I'm used to..
So far, so good....
Addendum: Almost one tank down and flavor getting better, juice still the same color as I started. Liking this stuff more & more, but the jury is still out as to whether this is better than the white ceramic.
One caveat: how you roll this stuff into a wick will make all the difference in the world as to how well it works. I've been playing with a few excess pieces trying to wrap it different ways - When you roll it up, try to keep from compressing it to the point where you start breaking up the internal foam structure. Start with a solid crimp along one edge (like when you fold over one edge of a stainless steel wick), and then lightly roll it in your fingers, trying not to crush it as you roll....or its wicking capabilities will suffer.
You will probably only be able to do about one & 1/2 rolls..or less for a 1/8 wick. This actually makes me think this thinner material might be better than the thicker stuff....or we might need a different technique for that. Don't know for certain - just throwing it out there.
Keep the feedback coming...& have fun!
So far, wicking like a champ - no tilting required, and no dry-hits, even with a half-filled tank. Nice vapor production, and flavor isn't bad at all, but from my previous experience with stainless wicks, will probably get a little better.
So...here's what I've noticed so far;
Ribbon wire may not be the best for these wicks because it seems to "bite" into the foam & cause shorts. Round wire works very well.
Don't wrap them super tight (see above). I'm so used to trying to wrap ceramic wicks as tight as I can, that I was actually screwing these wicks up ... even contact across the coil & wick are ideal - either a cheesecloth wrap, or your favorite thin insulating materiel work well to keep the shorts to a minimum.
The Petar-K/drillbit method is ideal for this materiel - trying to wrap them on the foam will just lead to frustration & crumbled wicks....and shorts.
NO vape-lag -(a common problem with larger ceramic or stainless wicks). Hit the button - instant vapor. The foam wick gets hot immediately, and cools down just as fast. It might eliminate the darkening/burned-juice in the tank problem due to the hot wick cooking the juice...but won't be able to confirm that until I go through a tank.
It seems to deliver nicotine VERY efficiently... you might have to cut back your percentage of nic..or it might just be me, but I noticed this phenomenon after vaping with it for about 15 min....
Overall, not bad. I think with some different techniques to take advantage of the unique properties of this stuff could deliver major dividends. I don't know if it will match the white ceramic wicks with some more tweaking...but IMHO, it already beats Stainless Steel as a wicking material hands-down.
As an "acid test" - I'm running it with a juice that can be pretty nasty with some wicks (a pear/pineapple/tobacco DIY). With this wick, the flavors are very clean, with no metallic taste at all - with stainless, this juice tastes like you're vaping aluminum foil.... good sign. I also noticed that it delivers a much cooler vape, but that might be due to running a higher Ω coil than I'm used to..
So far, so good....
Addendum: Almost one tank down and flavor getting better, juice still the same color as I started. Liking this stuff more & more, but the jury is still out as to whether this is better than the white ceramic.
One caveat: how you roll this stuff into a wick will make all the difference in the world as to how well it works. I've been playing with a few excess pieces trying to wrap it different ways - When you roll it up, try to keep from compressing it to the point where you start breaking up the internal foam structure. Start with a solid crimp along one edge (like when you fold over one edge of a stainless steel wick), and then lightly roll it in your fingers, trying not to crush it as you roll....or its wicking capabilities will suffer.
You will probably only be able to do about one & 1/2 rolls..or less for a 1/8 wick. This actually makes me think this thinner material might be better than the thicker stuff....or we might need a different technique for that. Don't know for certain - just throwing it out there.
Keep the feedback coming...& have fun!
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Don't wanna be Debbie Downer, but before everybody gets too excited....as Dan pointed out in the interest thread (long since deleted)....vaping directly off Nickel anything (could) be toxic.
Might be wise to actually use the Nickel wick in the same manner as a standard atomizer....by using a thin silica sleeve over the coil's surface.
So you'd be vaping directly off the silica sleeve rather than the Nickel.
(And here's comes the Nichrome debate!)
Might be wise to actually use the Nickel wick in the same manner as a standard atomizer....by using a thin silica sleeve over the coil's surface.
So you'd be vaping directly off the silica sleeve rather than the Nickel.
(And here's comes the Nichrome debate!
)
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Don't wanna be Debbie Downer, but before everybody gets too excited....as Dan pointed out in the interest thread (long since deleted)....vaping directly off Nickel anything (could) be toxic.
Might be wise to actually use the Nickel wick in the same manner as a standard atomizer....by using a thin silica sleeve over the coil's surface.
So you'd be vaping directly off the silica sleeve rather than the Nickel.
(And here's comes the Nichrome debate!
Ecowool sleeve is better IMO. It holds more juice and doesn't mute the flavor.
Hard to tell how well a silica sleeve would work since you're not using it to wick through the tank....might not mute the flavor at all considering the very short distance your juice would be traveling.
A good sleeve to test though would be from a discarded cartomizer.
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given the high % of people who have nickel allergies I would be careful vaping off nickel
That's where the nichrome debate comes into play....
Every single atomizer/cartomizer/clearomiser that's coming out of China is using a nichrome coil.
80% nickel and 20% chromium
The question I ask though, which metal is exposed on the surface of the resistence wire?
Is it an 80/20 mix or does the chrome sit on the surface with the nickel below?
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I don't know scrap about Ekowool, so what do ya think would work the best in this case?
Ekowool Fabric?
Maybe the KT-11-TO with the 290 thread-count?
Good point about the nickel Shek, but it's still better than the stinkies that I did for 50 years.
A little early for a follow-up post from earlier as it's only been 1 tank and less than 1 day, but there is quite a bit of interest, so here goes. Using a 50/50 blend and results may vary.
1. With the set up described in post #31, there was no detectable funky taste or flavor.
2. Wicks more on gravity than capilliary action, need to hold at about 4 o'clock.
3. If you get a dry hit, tilt for a few seconds and wick will get rejuiced.
4. If your atty starts gurgling, just hold at 6 o'clock for a couple of hits and good to go. (See PBusardo's you tube"the many angles of vaping")
5. Flavor returned after only about a half a tank to what is expected (as good as anything I've used to date)
6. Conclusion: me likey.
a. suits my vaping style( I usually hold about 4 o'clock anyway)
b. does not wick as well as mest--to be determined by BJ's scientific tests.
c. No flow back into the tank so juice stays looking fresh and not gunky.
d. reasonably prices. Using the above set-up I'll get 15 wicks with the rsst.
No game changer here, but I would buy some more if a good price.
Overall Thumbs up but no street shout.
Thanks again Tibs for a good product.
A little early for a follow-up post from earlier as it's only been 1 tank and less than 1 day, but there is quite a bit of interest, so here goes. Using a 50/50 blend and results may vary.
1. With the set up described in post #31, there was no detectable funky taste or flavor.
2. Wicks more on gravity than capilliary action, need to hold at about 4 o'clock.
3. If you get a dry hit, tilt for a few seconds and wick will get rejuiced.
4. If your atty starts gurgling, just hold at 6 o'clock for a couple of hits and good to go. (See PBusardo's you tube"the many angles of vaping")
5. Flavor returned after only about a half a tank to what is expected (as good as anything I've used to date)
6. Conclusion: me likey.
a. suits my vaping style( I usually hold about 4 o'clock anyway)
b. does not wick as well as mest--to be determined by BJ's scientific tests.
c. No flow back into the tank so juice stays looking fresh and not gunky.
d. reasonably prices. Using the above set-up I'll get 15 wicks with the rsst.
No game changer here, but I would buy some more if a good price.
Overall Thumbs up but no street shout.
Thanks again Tibs for a good product.
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