Some other suggestions: I'm running a little Atomic dripper atty as MTL at 7.4 watts. I've used #32 and #30 wire in it so far. It actually stays so cool doing this, I'd try a bigger build in it if it had better juice capacity.
For a tank even smaller than the Nautilus, the single coil Kanger series is semi-rebuildable. e.g. Mini Protank 2 (not 3), EVOD (not 2). Some wind their own coils but I don't recommend it, should use pre-welded coil assemblies with nonresistant leads, but these can be had for less than 5 cents each. Really fiddly to do at first but by now it's in a sense easier than rebuilding a RDA.
Nectar dripper tanks. Really small chamber with the coil right under the drip tip. Too hot a vape with anything over 10 watts, if that.
Yes. With mech type devices, resistance basically was your power setting (in inverse), and there has been a holdover of that, which is not entirely meaningless but causes confusion.
For a small vapor output and small power requirements, you need a small coil. That can be a medium length of thin wire or a short length of thick wire. The total surface area of that wire is what you have to heat and therefore sets how much total power is needed.
As an example that may help or cause more confusion, Right now I'm trying a .6 ohm #28 stainless steel coil in my main RDA with the iStick 30, which except for using spaced coils I made the same as my regular Kanthal 1.3 ohm coils. The vape is almost identical, because the mod can send in the exact same amount of power. The mod gets a tad hotter running this way because it has to convert its internal battery voltage to a higher current, lower voltage output, but even that I probably wouldn't notice if I didn't know already it's different.
For a tank even smaller than the Nautilus, the single coil Kanger series is semi-rebuildable. e.g. Mini Protank 2 (not 3), EVOD (not 2). Some wind their own coils but I don't recommend it, should use pre-welded coil assemblies with nonresistant leads, but these can be had for less than 5 cents each. Really fiddly to do at first but by now it's in a sense easier than rebuilding a RDA.
Nectar dripper tanks. Really small chamber with the coil right under the drip tip. Too hot a vape with anything over 10 watts, if that.
Yes. With mech type devices, resistance basically was your power setting (in inverse), and there has been a holdover of that, which is not entirely meaningless but causes confusion.
For a small vapor output and small power requirements, you need a small coil. That can be a medium length of thin wire or a short length of thick wire. The total surface area of that wire is what you have to heat and therefore sets how much total power is needed.
As an example that may help or cause more confusion, Right now I'm trying a .6 ohm #28 stainless steel coil in my main RDA with the iStick 30, which except for using spaced coils I made the same as my regular Kanthal 1.3 ohm coils. The vape is almost identical, because the mod can send in the exact same amount of power. The mod gets a tad hotter running this way because it has to convert its internal battery voltage to a higher current, lower voltage output, but even that I probably wouldn't notice if I didn't know already it's different.
that is a question the other half keeps asking! 
