Now, that's definitely user error
Max temperature is 600F, that temp would fry a nickel coil, you sure you have a functioning TC device?
Not a huge fan of TC
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Max temperature is 600F, that temp would fry a nickel coil, you sure you have a functioning TC device?
Sounds like an issue with setting the base resistance of the coil. If your base resistance is not set correctly, the device can incorrectly think the coil is up to temperature when it actually isn't.
I thought so at first too, but after getting used to it I think kanthal actually tastes weird, and nickel gives a cleaner flavor. Regardless, you could always use Titanium for temperature control.
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Try Titanium grade 1 then, it can be used on any TC device with or without TCR control,.
If your TC device doesn't have TCR control, just set temp about 60-90 degrees lower then with nickel (adjust to taste)
If your TC device doesn't have TCR control, just set temp about 60-90 degrees lower then with nickel (adjust to taste)
FWIW, if the SX Mini is your first mod using 18650's (and going from an internal battery mod using LiPo's) you will definitely notice a drop in battery life. That's because Li-Ion batteries simply don't last as long as Li-Po's with the same mAh. I use a Samsung 25R in my SX Mini and it will last me about half a day. It's a 2500 mah battery and the joule counter will show about 29k-30k before I need to swap batteries. On my Snow Wolf 200w, with two VTC5's at 2500 mah each), it lasts me just about a day. My evic-VT has a 5000 mah internal Li-Po and it can last me about 2.5-3 days before recharging.
Don't think so. Its know that the evic vt temp mode isn't accurate.
Thats the thing. I went from an ipv2 and atlantis to the sx mini and herakles with ni200 coils. I used the same batteries for the sx mini as i did with the ipv2. People are saying my battery life is supposed to last a little longer in temp mode compared to wattage, but instead its the opposite. Im not sure why. I was thinking i got a dud coil, but im not sure what else. All my settings are correct. I set the resistence at .24 ohms and its at 390 degrees @28j. I'm still getting a hot vape and battery life sucks.
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Ok ... please forgive my sideways answer.
1. A temperature limited vape suffers substantially when the wicking does not keep up.
2. I don't trust a prefab coil producer to do their best work with any consistency.
3. In general, to get a good temperature controlled vape, one has to provide a well built and well wicked coil (repeat of #1).
4. I don't know how one will know they have built and wicked effectively if they haven't built a traditional (kanthal, nichrome) coil on that deck and discovered what actually works well. This is because the temperature limiting firmware will mask a build deficiency and simply provide a weak vape.
5. I don't trust that any prefab coil head is built optimally. I can offer several examples of crap Ni200 and Ti coil heads; I can't provide the converse.
To the original poster, I would give up on the prefab coil heads before I would discount temperature limited vaping. My experience with temp limited vaping is that I enjoy thick, rich, flavorful vapor which is produced consistently. I vape rebuildable tanks and drippers which I learned to coil and wick traditionally.
I recognize that you may not have an interest in building. But, before you blame the firmware, I'd implore you to seek out a coil head that is working effectively. If the effective coil head is elusive, it is possible that temperature limited vaping is not for you - for that reason.
1. A temperature limited vape suffers substantially when the wicking does not keep up.
2. I don't trust a prefab coil producer to do their best work with any consistency.
3. In general, to get a good temperature controlled vape, one has to provide a well built and well wicked coil (repeat of #1).
4. I don't know how one will know they have built and wicked effectively if they haven't built a traditional (kanthal, nichrome) coil on that deck and discovered what actually works well. This is because the temperature limiting firmware will mask a build deficiency and simply provide a weak vape.
5. I don't trust that any prefab coil head is built optimally. I can offer several examples of crap Ni200 and Ti coil heads; I can't provide the converse.
To the original poster, I would give up on the prefab coil heads before I would discount temperature limited vaping. My experience with temp limited vaping is that I enjoy thick, rich, flavorful vapor which is produced consistently. I vape rebuildable tanks and drippers which I learned to coil and wick traditionally.
I recognize that you may not have an interest in building. But, before you blame the firmware, I'd implore you to seek out a coil head that is working effectively. If the effective coil head is elusive, it is possible that temperature limited vaping is not for you - for that reason.
I understand what you're saying, and you're absolutely right. For me, im not much of a builder, so I rely on prebuilt coils to get the job done. Temp control for prebuilt coils isnt just there yet. I wasnt trying to blame anyone for temp control being a waste, i was just trying to find a solution to my frustrating problem. I'm speaking from my experience. However, you're right. I'm not gonna completely trach TC. Ill try the left over herakles ni200 coils, then try building on an RDA, and if all that still doesnt work, then ill trash it. Its frustrating when you do so much research on tanks and coils with temp control capabilities, and people speak so highly of it, but when you actually go to use it, it doesnt work as described. Even with the right setting.
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It's the tank and how you're using it. If you're vaporizing more liquid you're using more energy, i.e. more wattage. Subohm clearos are known for being able to handle plenty of wattage. What tank are you using in vw mode and what is your wattage setting with it?
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For wattage mode, i use my atlantis with the .5 ohm coils @28 watts. For temp mode, i use my herakles with the .2 ohm ni200 coils at 380 degrees @28j. People are saying battery life is supposed to be shortned in temp mode, but for me thats not the case.
and this type of frequently given, arrogant forum response from the TC fanboys makes me so want to keep trying TC
Like a couple others expressed, I too get a weak cool vape with TC. I do wrap my own builds as far as Kanthal, but for the TC Nickel coils, I had the guy at my local vape shop build it for me, and as I mentioned, I get a weak cool vape. He set the ipv3 Li temp control at 50J. What do you think could be the problem?
Sorry that you think it's arrogance, I call it electrical properties 101 and mod building experience.
TC is measured by resistance changes caused by heat (TCR). these variances are minute, and require a steadfast solid connection from the battery, to the chip, to both sides of coil, and a wire that has a measurable TCR (NI200, Titanium grade 1).
Once done correctly, and using a good chip ( I've built a bunch of DNA40s and also have a temporary build of the DNA200), your coil is pre-heated to the approximate temperature you set it to using the full power of the chip, so by the time you get the mod to your mouth, you're vaping at the temperature you set, try that with a VV/VW and Kanthol.
Again, the warmth of your vape is in your total control once you have a device that actually works.
I have a dozen or so that I've built, all squonkers, all work fine from 26g NI200 to 30G Titanium, single, dual and quad coils.
you do need some skillz though
My guess is your device has a poor connection somewhere, and you are running into erratic TCR readings, causing temp limits to be reached in error
I've vaped many stable builds at 580 on my DNA 40, and the vape doesn't compare to a Kanthal build under 0.5 running 40-50w, and god you even have to be arrogant in your second response. I was the first vaping personality to have my own line of eliquid, conceived in 2010 and on the market in 2011, and you don't see me going around talking down to people on ECF, or anywhere. Well, except the arrogant ones like you that imply multiple times that I don't know what I'm doing. Grow up and accept that TC is not a one size fits all solution for all vapers, and that opinions that differ from yours are not necessarily incorrect. I do not like TC, it does not give me the warm, satisfying vape that I get from Kanthal. I do not care what you think about that, nor should you care that TC was not for me. This isn't a contest where someone wins a prize at the end.
TC is not a one size fits all solution, but if the connection is stable and the resistance is read correctly 600f should be plenty warm. In fact, at that temperature you should be experiencing some burnt taste, at least after a while. While I do like tc I don't expect everyone to like it, but if the vape is not warm enough, even at higher temperature settings, it does seem like something is off in the build or the settings.
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On my Snow Wolf, I get better battery life with TC. Running Watts on Kanthal, it is a little, not much, shorter interval between battery changes. With the .5 ohm Kanger SubTank coils, I run 22 watts. Using the rba with a .1 28awg Ni200 build, I set it at 40 watts with a 450 degree temp setting. Vape temp is about the same, but I get more vapor with the temp control. Better flavor with temp control as well. I've been trying to see which uses more juice, but it is very close. The rba is bigger and lowers the tank capacity slightly, so I've been measuring amounts used out of my bottles. Gets confusing because I use multiple flavors from multiple vendors with different sized bottles. However it works out, I prefer using tc and nickel coils at this point, maybe I will try Ti sooner or later. Just what I have experienced, ymmv...
Does the SX Mini show total used joules in both tc and vw mode? You could compare those to get a better estimate of actual battery life (I think).
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