OBS Crius RTA?

[Hightech Redneck]

You mean where the circles are silver? Lol, yes they are fully open... I've even resorted to closing the AFC off and take some hard puffs to prime it just so I can vape it without getting dry hits for a hit or two... Yeah, about my replacement, WetVapes emailed me back three days after my inquiry, asked me to reply with pictures, did immediately, and I haven't heard from them for days. I'm pretty disappointed with their customer service or at least their response time after all the good I've heard about them.



I've been using my Crius mostly on my Evic VTC Mini and a few times on my VT200 and I get the same poor results on both mods. The resistance doesn't fluctuate but by a hundredth on the evic every now and then. I don't think it's running hot. Prior to the Crius I was using my Crown with SS 0.25 coils in TC at same temp and wattage in both evic and VT200 back and forth. I know the Crown isn't a good example because of the nickel-legged coils of the SS coil heads, but I also ran the Crown in power mode in both mods interchangeably at 60 watts with the same results. So, yeah, I don't think my mod is running hot.

The only thing I can think of doing now is using even less cotton. I just can't believe that I would have to use even less cotton than the Billow V2 to wick the Crius. That damn tank is so picky with its wicking and I believe I mastered that. I really didn't expect this trouble from all I've heard about the Crius.

Maybe I'll try a regular old Kanthal build in it next. I don't see how the wire and/or resistance could be the problem if the wattage is maintained at a reasonable level but who knows... I just don't think I'll be satisfied with the flavor from a Kanthal build anymore.

Never used a vtc mini but while thinking outside the box, does it lock the resistance when a new device is installed? I have to do it manually on my ipv and if I forget I will get a dry hit as a reminder. Especially if atleast a .1 difference between coils.

 

[jefx]

While my experience with the Crius is somewhat limited, i do use an evic vtc mini. You do have to manually lock the resistance, as im sure jj is already aware of.

Anyway, i've experienced some similar experiences with the vtc mini paired to my Bellus. It turns out the 510 post had backed out a bit over time, probably from unscrewing the tank from the mod every night. A quick tightening resolved the issue.

However, thats not an option on the Crius, since the post is press fit.

Im curious how easy it is for the post to spin (with a screwdriver) in jj's Crius...... if it spins easily, than maybe the "press" fit between the post and block are not making a very solid connection.

 

[maxxoKL]

Hey first post,

while the insulator on my white V2 isn't cracked, I have a spinning afc ring. Is there any way to fix this?

 

[jj6404]

While my experience with the Crius is somewhat limited, i do use an evic vtc mini. You do have to manually lock the resistance, as im sure jj is already aware of.

Anyway, i've experienced some similar experiences with the vtc mini paired to my Bellus. It turns out the 510 post had backed out a bit over time, probably from unscrewing the tank from the mod every night. A quick tightening resolved the issue.

However, thats not an option on the Crius, since the post is press fit.

Im curious how easy it is for the post to spin (with a screwdriver) in jj's Crius...... if it spins easily, than maybe the "press" fit between the post and block are not making a very solid connection.

So I tried turning the post with a screwdriver and I could barely get it to budge.

On another note, I rewicked it yet again this morning...and so far no dry hits. Still vaping it at 45 watts and too scared to go higher but I will incrementally increase the wattage to maybe 55 or so since my build is now 0.17 (24g SS316L 9 or 10 wrap 2.5mm ID contact coils). So I used just enough cotton to barely provide resistance when pulling through the coils. But this time instead of folding the ends down into the channels (I was essentially ensuring the end of each strand made it into the juice channels), I fluffed the ends a bit and just placed the very bottom corners of the wick ends into the channels. So about 60% or so of the cotton on each end of the wick is just sitting on top of the juice channel. I would of thought that this wicking method would either not wick well (because a big portion of the wick is not touching the juice channel at all) or lead to leaking (because so little of the wick is actually "plugging" up the channels).

I guess I was wicking it like an RDA where I made sure that the cotton looked like an upside down U and each end was pointed down and into the juice channels. Currently my wicks look more like just fluff balls on each end with a tiny bit showing through the circles. I experimented with both wicking methods with my Billow V2s and the latter (and currently successfully performing method) always led to dry hits in the Billow.

I feel like an idiot now, lol. But, the verdict isn't out yet on if this method will promote leaking or not.

 

[Greeneagle]

So I tried turning the post with a screwdriver and I could barely get it to budge.

On another note, I rewicked it yet again this morning...and so far no dry hits. Still vaping it at 45 watts and too scared to go higher but I will incrementally increase the wattage to maybe 55 or so since my build is now 0.17 (24g SS316L 9 or 10 wrap 2.5mm ID contact coils). So I used just enough cotton to barely provide resistance when pulling through the coils. But this time instead of folding the ends down into the channels (I was essentially ensuring the end of each strand made it into the juice channels), I fluffed the ends a bit and just placed the very bottom corners of the wick ends into the channels. So about 60% or so of the cotton on each end of the wick is just sitting on top of the juice channel. I would of thought that this wicking method would either not wick well (because a big portion of the wick is not touching the juice channel at all) or lead to leaking (because so little of the wick is actually "plugging" up the channels).

I guess I was wicking it like an RDA where I made sure that the cotton looked like an upside down U and each end was pointed down and into the juice channels. Currently my wicks look more like just fluff balls on each end with a tiny bit showing through the circles. I experimented with both wicking methods with my Billow V2s and the latter (and currently successfully performing method) always led to dry hits in the Billow.

I feel like an idiot now, lol. But, the verdict isn't out yet on if this method will promote leaking or not.

I taper my ends if the wicks. Taper the ends by cutting them at an angle.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[Hightech Redneck]

So I tried turning the post with a screwdriver and I could barely get it to budge.

On another note, I rewicked it yet again this morning...and so far no dry hits. Still vaping it at 45 watts and too scared to go higher but I will incrementally increase the wattage to maybe 55 or so since my build is now 0.17 (24g SS316L 9 or 10 wrap 2.5mm ID contact coils). So I used just enough cotton to barely provide resistance when pulling through the coils. But this time instead of folding the ends down into the channels (I was essentially ensuring the end of each strand made it into the juice channels), I fluffed the ends a bit and just placed the very bottom corners of the wick ends into the channels. So about 60% or so of the cotton on each end of the wick is just sitting on top of the juice channel. I would of thought that this wicking method would either not wick well (because a big portion of the wick is not touching the juice channel at all) or lead to leaking (because so little of the wick is actually "plugging" up the channels).

I guess I was wicking it like an RDA where I made sure that the cotton looked like an upside down U and each end was pointed down and into the juice channels. Currently my wicks look more like just fluff balls on each end with a tiny bit showing through the circles. I experimented with both wicking methods with my Billow V2s and the latter (and currently successfully performing method) always led to dry hits in the Billow.

I feel like an idiot now, lol. But, the verdict isn't out yet on if this method will promote leaking or not.

That is basically how I do it and posted earlier. I look at it as the small amount on the well holes keeps the main "ball" in the chamber wet. Also will help keep it seated versus just laying on the deck or choking the wick by stuffing into the wick holes. It has worked for me and hopefully you will be good to go now.

 

[Marc411]

It always amazing me how a build will work great for one person and provide a bad vape for the next person.

Every build I've done so far has been with the channels loosely filled with cotton to the deck. I work it into the channel and don't force cotton into the channel. I trim anything off that won't fit. Looking through the juice hole the wick is on the deck. The build is similar to the Aqua V2.

I've had no leaking or dry hits yet (jinxed myself) and the tank has performed real well to 55W

 

[ashtrayogdc]

Well I've gone through 6 tanks so far and all I have to say is this thing is fantastic! My build is 26 gauge 6 wraps 2.5 id comes to .35 ohms and vape it at 45 watts. Have been using the wicking method pretty much the same as just mentioned in the last 2 posts. Cut at an angle and put the thin tails in the channels.

Hits very good and it's very tasty. No dry hits or leaking.

It sucks that the insulators were cracked though. I have been using the deck that just had one crack through it though and it's working just dandy. Don't think I want to even try the other deck with the smashed insulator. Still waiting on Efun to respond about the insulator issues.

 

[Marc411]

Once you get the build they way you like it the tank is great. It's a flavor machine!

I picked up one of the FT clones to see what the insulator was made of and see it they fit on the original. I think it was HTR that pointed out they had the adjustable 510 pin so their deck sounds promising. For $16 it's worth a try and if they are built the same I can use the chimney on the Black one's that had the dimples on the chimney.

 

[arh32]

Mine is in the mail today. Gonna wick like posted in this thread and see how she blows!!

 

[ashtrayogdc]

Once you get the build they way you like it the tank is great. It's a flavor machine!

I picked up one of the FT clones to see what the insulator was made of and see it they fit on the original. I think it was HTR that pointed out they had the adjustable 510 pin so their deck sounds promising. For $16 it's worth a try and if they are built the same I can use the chimney on the Black one's that had the dimples on the chimney.

I'm very curious about those FT clones. Can't order any until the new year personally but am anxious to hear the results.

 

[Johan55]

Just got one in the mail today, and the insulator is cracked. Appears the crack goes all the way across but no gap so it might work. We'll see. WetVapes sent me a copy of the OBS response to their query about this issue. Don't laugh too hard....

"
1, this ceramic material is more evirenment than others , but it is friable.
2, the insulator is always to be cracked while producing , but it won't effect its works and will not leek.
3, we have fixed this problem already, the cracked number will be less , but still exist."

 

[Heartsdelight]

You mean where the circles are silver? Lol, yes they are fully open... I've even resorted to closing the AFC off and take some hard puffs to prime it just so I can vape it without getting dry hits for a hit or two... Yeah, about my replacement, WetVapes emailed me back three days after my inquiry, asked me to reply with pictures, did immediately, and I haven't heard from them for days. I'm pretty disappointed with their customer service or at least their response time after all the good I've heard about them.
I had the same issue when emailing them, try calling, that's what I did. Somehow calling is more effective. They sent out a replacement (deck only) but guess what? The deck has a crack too! Now what? Don't know if I should bother to call & let them know.


I've been using my Crius mostly on my Evic VTC Mini and a few times on my VT200 and I get the same poor results on both mods. The resistance doesn't fluctuate but by a hundredth on the evic every now and then. I don't think it's running hot. Prior to the Crius I was using my Crown with SS 0.25 coils in TC at same temp and wattage in both evic and VT200 back and forth. I know the Crown isn't a good example because of the nickel-legged coils of the SS coil heads, but I also ran the Crown in power mode in both mods interchangeably at 60 watts with the same results. So, yeah, I don't think my mod is running hot.

The only thing I can think of doing now is using even less cotton. I just can't believe that I would have to use even less cotton than the Billow V2 to wick the Crius. That damn tank is so picky with its wicking and I believe I mastered that. I really didn't expect this trouble from all I've heard about the Crius.

Maybe I'll try a regular old Kanthal build in it next. I don't see how the wire and/or resistance could be the problem if the wattage is maintained at a reasonable level but who knows... I just don't think I'll be satisfied with the flavor from a Kanthal build anymore.

 

[Heartsdelight]

Just got one in the mail today, and the insulator is cracked. Appears the crack goes all the way across but no gap so it might work. We'll see. WetVapes sent me a copy of the OBS response to their query about this issue. Don't laugh too hard....

"
1, this ceramic material is more evirenment than others , but it is friable.
2, the insulator is always to be cracked while producing , but it won't effect its works and will not leek.
3, we have fixed this problem already, the cracked number will be less , but still exist."

Mine from wetvapes is cracked too. Are you going to let wetvapes know?

Omg.... Never mind the English but are they for real?

 

[ashtrayogdc]

Just got one in the mail today, and the insulator is cracked. Appears the crack goes all the way across but no gap so it might work. We'll see. WetVapes sent me a copy of the OBS response to their query about this issue. Don't laugh too hard....

"
1, this ceramic material is more evirenment than others , but it is friable.
2, the insulator is always to be cracked while producing , but it won't effect its works and will not leek.
3, we have fixed this problem already, the cracked number will be less , but still exist."

Evirenment? Hmmm. My best assumption is that it's better for the environment producing ceramic than it is for peek?

I can't believe they are going to stick with the ceramic. Also am dumbfounded they are claiming that they are "always is cracked while producing"

Perhaps they aren't aware of some cases like @jefx where it is so badly cracked they are sucking shards up through the chimney.

This is ridiculous...

 

[Greeneagle]

Just got one in the mail today, and the insulator is cracked. Appears the crack goes all the way across but no gap so it might work. We'll see. WetVapes sent me a copy of the OBS response to their query about this issue. Don't laugh too hard....

"
1, this ceramic material is more evirenment than others , but it is friable.
2, the insulator is always to be cracked while producing , but it won't effect its works and will not leek.
3, we have fixed this problem already, the cracked number will be less , but still exist."

I love #3
They have fixed the problem but cracks still exist. If cracks exist then doesn't it mean that they still have yet to fix the problem? haha

 

[izen]

Lol!

I've seen the term "sweating" used quite often, not just by izen. And not just in this thread.

Oh gee, (I thought I originated the term but seriously), come on now; I never said I was the only one to use it. Just referenced it a lot.

It seems it has become a term for "acceptable, low amounts of leakage".

Apparently so.

Condensation, like what happens to the outside of a glass of ice water on a hot day, is the formation of water droplets caused by drastic changes in temperature of air.

This is nostalgic. I feel like I'm back in 7th grade science class. Precision does keep us on track towards understanding what's actually going on with these devices, so it's a helpful reminder.

Condensation on the inside of a tank is fully reasonable and can be seen when using a glass drip tip. But moisture on the bottom of a tank (unless it is actually water) is a leak, even if it is a small amount.

Have experienced a small amount of this. Very small. And it's been intermittent. I don't know what to make of it. Vape's great for hours & hours and then sometimes "sweats" (Haha lol), Not going to say "leaks" , but ok, if so, I can only think it's the wicking and I don't get it because it stays dry for so long initially. It's mostly been great though, and dry - but not always.

 

[izen]

What am I missing here? Too many are 'cracked'. Maybe they're not cracked. Maybe the insulation platform is assembled that way for a reason.

Just got one in the mail today, and the insulator is cracked. Appears the crack goes all the way across but no gap so it might work. We'll see. WetVapes sent me a copy of the OBS response to their query about this issue. Don't laugh too hard....
"
1, this ceramic material is more evirenment than others , but it is friable.
2, the insulator is always to be cracked while producing , but it won't effect its works and will not leek.
3, we have fixed this problem already, the cracked number will be less , but still exist."

Lolol

 

[ashtrayogdc]

Lolol

They don't say they did it on purpose. They say the way it is manufactured causes the cracks because it is a fragile material. They even say the cracked number will be less, as to say they don't mean to crack them.

 

[izen]

They don't say they did it on purpose. They say the way it is manufactured causes the cracks because it is a fragile material. They even say the cracked number will be less, as to say they don't mean to crack them.

I dunno... See point #2 above. lol.