Ody flooding....

[unloaded]

I had some similar problems with my V1 Odys. Here's what I figured out I was doing. The threads on the ceramic housing are so fine that the gaps for ceramic gives enough space to have the nut or mouth piece "cross-threaded" but still thread together smoothly. If either one is like this you will get the leaking you mention. I pay close attention when assembling, comparing both pieces to ceramic channel as they are being threaded on. Both should be perpendicular to the channel. If they are off by one thread you can see it if you are looking for it. It will cause a gap between base and nut or nut and mouth piece. At first I thought the gap was from the NR wire under the nut, but it turned out not to be the case. Since I've started checking for this I haven't had a single leak. Have a close look at yours and hopefully this will solve your problem.

 

[Natron]

thanks all...im going to try not tight housing to base as tight...that seems to be new thing ive been doing and maybe too tight.after that ill try other suggestions and get back in a bit.

 

[pimpe]

I had similar issue a week ago..
What happen with mine was that the outer tank was not 100% straight and when i was putting the top cap on it was pushing against the mouth peice and it was making a very very small gap between the core and the base, which it leaks throught.

 

[Natron]

ok...i reverse flooded it. meaning i put all together minus the tank,plugged the bottom hole in pin with toothpick and filled up through mouthpiece with water....leaks right away from under locking ring...have tried both wrapping wire around insert and just straight out(like i usually do).not crossthreaded......

 

[unloaded]

How far is center pin sticking out?

 

[Natron]

View attachment 130282

not too far...

 

[Natron]

i dont know how to upload pics bigger.....

 

[unloaded]

I thought you were using 510 base, I don't have any experience with Ody base yet. Sounds like its got to be something with oring between ceramic housing and where the positive wire attaches. Either not squeezed enough or it's cracked, torn or worn. Do you have a spare you can try?

 

[Natron]

oh i mean locking ring up on the insert..the one that holds wick,the one where neg wire

 

[unloaded]

For the water to get from inside of the cup to the threads on the locking nut there are two paths it could take. One is through the hole in bottom of ceramic and ceramic housing. If its taking this path there is an issue with the small oring between ceramic housing and positive nut/center pin. The oring is either compromised or not compressed enough. The only other path it could be taking is the slots for ceramic channels. The V1 doesnt have have an oring inside or beneath the ceramic cup, the liquid could be taking this route although none of mine have leaked here. You could try a small oring inside like V2 but I'm not sure you'd have enough thread on top part of center pin for the nut. Another reason liquid could be taking this path is a cracked or chipped ceramic. Reverse flooding idea is interesting but it's a little different than what is going on normally with the Ody. There are pressures positive and negative that come into play when the Ody is properly assembled, also the placement of orings would be different depending on if you are trying to keep liquid in or out of the cup.

 

[Natron]

Hi unloaded. Im saying its leaking from the thin ring up around ceramic housing not the locking nut underneath...my bad explaining.

 

[unloaded]

Yea, but to get there it's got to follow one of the paths I mention, unless you are filling it over the top of cup.

 

[Natron]

oh. i just screwed mouthpiece on and filled from there till water came out... it came out beneath the ring.
so it probably was overfilling cup

 

[The Yeti]

I've been fighting leaking issues ever since getting my Ody - especially with BIG mode Ody. From my experience, it's one of two things - juice getting under the nut that holds the neg wire to the base, or too much wicking and juice dripping from the wick into the ceramic cup, thus making it's way down the air hole to drip out the stem.

I've tried not putting the neg wire under the nut with mixed results - I get little to no leaking, but I get an 'iffy' connection, sometimes a good connection, sometimes none at all, sometimes intermitent. Sometimes I'll think I have a good connection, then I adjust the juice control and it jostles the neg wire somehow and I got a bad connection.

One thing I tried a long time ago and need to re-visit is putting an o-ring under the nut that holds the neg wire, trapping the neg wire between the o-ring and the base. With the o-ring forming itself around the neg wire, it SHOULD create a better seal. I think I saw this a few months ago on the Greek forum. Kind of a pain though to have to put that o-ring on every time you rebuild.

I'm hoping I can figure out a way to keep the neg wire in the channel AND get a good connection - with the sanded ring, and a better seal, I think that is the holy grail of non-leaky-ness.

This would all be a moot point with a V2 Ody of course. The V2 has metal all the way down the channel for the neg wire.

 

[Supacrazyguy]

out of curiousity , what thickness NR are you using?

 

[The Yeti]

Dunno, I'd have to look when I get home. I know it's silver.

I'm sure I couldn't get a big enough gauge to actually FILL the channel though.

 

[Natron]

Im using 30 silver.
I like the idea of trying an o-ring around ceramic housing..I may try that before my v2 stuff gets here.

 

[Supacrazyguy]

Im using 30 silver.
I like the idea of trying an o-ring around ceramic housing..I may try that before my v2 stuff gets here.

not that I'm some sort of expert but that seems a little thick , maybe try some 36 SWG . btw don't bother with silver , get some nickel , the resistance it adds is so little due to short length that silver isn't worth it ( would bet my left uhhh ..... arm in a blind test that you can't tell ). also buy a spool , cheaper in long run

 

[imeothanasis]

make a turn with NR wire around the wick that goes inside channels yeti. Its the best trick to stop any leackage

I've been fighting leaking issues ever since getting my Ody - especially with BIG mode Ody. From my experience, it's one of two things - juice getting under the nut that holds the neg wire to the base, or too much wicking and juice dripping from the wick into the ceramic cup, thus making it's way down the air hole to drip out the stem.

I've tried not putting the neg wire under the nut with mixed results - I get little to no leaking, but I get an 'iffy' connection, sometimes a good connection, sometimes none at all, sometimes intermitent. Sometimes I'll think I have a good connection, then I adjust the juice control and it jostles the neg wire somehow and I got a bad connection.

One thing I tried a long time ago and need to re-visit is putting an o-ring under the nut that holds the neg wire, trapping the neg wire between the o-ring and the base. With the o-ring forming itself around the neg wire, it SHOULD create a better seal. I think I saw this a few months ago on the Greek forum. Kind of a pain though to have to put that o-ring on every time you rebuild.

I'm hoping I can figure out a way to keep the neg wire in the channel AND get a good connection - with the sanded ring, and a better seal, I think that is the holy grail of non-leaky-ness.

This would all be a moot point with a V2 Ody of course. The V2 has metal all the way down the channel for the neg wire.

 

[Natron]

i will try that supa...(thinner) Ive just use the 30 silver because the shop selling is down the street from me and i get about 100' for like 20.00.