I've been pulsing ni200 coils briefly at low watts to check for even firing. When I don't I get metal flavor.
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Sorry to hear of your pains with it. The nickel coil was built outside of the veritas. I used a 3mm driver and 30awg. I use another tool in my wrapping hand to hold the wire for tight wraps. Once satisfied with the result, I hold the coil with my thumb and lay the driver flat behind the two screws. Do one wrap around the post and screw. Cinch down the hardware. Position the coil with the driver still in place. Position leads with another tool if necessary. Remove the driver and you should be done at this point.
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Great way of doing it and that is exactly how I do it but my issue is more the springyness of the wire itself. Even if I build the perfect coil it just moves so much all over the place. I'll however give it another shot clear headed tonight.
A few days ago I spoke to Brandon and I certainly didn't expect him to call me (nor did I request a call) in response to a support ticket I submitted on an unrelated issue (my website) What I will say about this conversation is that Brandon is a good guy and is 100% aware of our respective issues and learning curve. He plans to release a video far far sooner than later and I'm very very confident that this video will clearly explain many unanswered questions and additional details that will help all of us. Since I don't work for Evolv /lol and have no "skin in the game" I would respectfully suggest that you give Evolv time and yes I understand it can be frustrating. Respectfully, if your not comfortable with Ni200 then just use your device with a Kanthal build until this video is released. Life is way way way to friggin short to endure high levels of frustration. OK?
Lets start with this: What wicking material are you using and or have available and what is the size of same?
I have been "work hardening " the Ni200 wire for about 5 minutes and it has really helped in making the wire easier to coil.
I hope I (we) can find a source of non-annealed or tempered nickel without it becoming too brittle.
I also think 29g would be perfect.
I hope I (we) can find a source of non-annealed or tempered nickel without it becoming too brittle.
I also think 29g would be perfect.
Brandon is awesome and I told him that several times. All is well I am just a bit frustrated thats all. But than again, I have been frustrated since I started vaping 4 years ago LOL.
I have all Gauge wires and all wicking materials. Cotton, Ribon, Koh gen doh, hamp, Pima, ekowool, silica, RXW and whatever else is out there. I think the next logical step would be to go Basil style and heat up my coil which will make it way easier as it's not so springy or just try to wrap some coils around 2mm ekowool and give that a go.
I have all Gauge wires and all wicking materials. Cotton, Ribon, Koh gen doh, hamp, Pima, ekowool, silica, RXW and whatever else is out there. I think the next logical step would be to go Basil style and heat up my coil which will make it way easier as it's not so springy or just try to wrap some coils around 2mm ekowool and give that a go.
I just ordered some more wire at temco and said to myself "29g would be a dream to have". Of course it's nowhere to be found lol
This is weird. The nickel that I have is very soft. There is some very minor spring effect on the two end coils when done. I thought it was a bit easier to work with than other wire types. Are you heating the nickel before trying to build with it? I did not apply any heat until it was in place.
I am not sure where the information came from to not torch NI200. But if you think about it for a second, pre-firing a coil is the same as firing a coil. At some point electricity will hit the coil and it will fire, or at least we hope it will.
So, why would pre-firing and pinching be any different than firing it? Am I missing something?
When I have flat out torched something it is usually already wrapped into a coil, which to me would also be the same as firing,
I'm wondering if there is a variance in what we are using. The stuff I have came from the auction place. It has a white and blue label on the spool.
The temperature the wire gets up to. With TC of (or with a torch), the wire gets a lot hotter than the max 600F the DNA40 will allow in TC mode.
Be prepared to wait 13 weeks if you order direct from Temco. At least that's what they quoted the shipping time as when I checked again just now.
Sedge, could you give us the gory details on exactly how you're working hardening it?
OK...that is sensible but with a pre-fire are we in the same boat? I am referring to the point at which we are working the coil, pulse firing. If we turn TC off and watts down, can the temp be controlled enough to get a good pre-fire?
And I am not sure I ever caught why getting the wire too hot is an issue. What is the problem with over heating the wire?
HonestlyI didn't put much thought into it. I started with the intention of a series config and ended up just doing a single. It's difficult to count the coils but it looks like 11-12 wraps at .18Ω .
Interesting....I do same thing but it seems like the nickel stretches or something. I can get it in fine but one of two things happens : either 1. In tightening the negative screw or positive nut it pulls the legs and misshapes the coil or 2. I think it is in fine but after 30 mins or so of vaping the coil gets looser and looser causing ohms to bounce, then if I just try and tighten it again I get back to number 1 and it misshapes coil way too easily, even when wicked.
This is only atty it is happening in and I just assumed it was a product of the MUCH longer legs than anything else I have built.
I will try again tonight to figure out what is going wrong as I have built the thing dozens of times with kanthal (single and dual) and never had the issue.
Driving can't quote for some reason. I would like to know what wite you use that isn't so springy because my 30-32 is the biggest pita I have ever worked with. I use a coul machine and once the pressure is off the cool springs apart leaving huge gaps.
That is the frustrating part. The only wire that works well enough for me is the 28g but I was never able to get it above 0.18ohm
That is the frustrating part. The only wire that works well enough for me is the 28g but I was never able to get it above 0.18ohm
Before
After 20 ml of a 50/50 pg/vg sweet, amber colored Malted Toffee. Rayon wick. Much better than without temperature protection.
After 20 ml of a 50/50 pg/vg sweet, amber colored Malted Toffee. Rayon wick. Much better than without temperature protection.
Why are you trying to get the resistance above 0.18Ω? The specs say 0.10Ω is fine and I have heard of many people having no issues as low as 0.65Ω.
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