Official DNA 40 introduction

Status
Not open for further replies.

KGie

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 13, 2014
328
282
Tampa, FL USA
Would a digital hot plate helps us determine the vaporizing point and the burning/charing point of ejuice?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NV43C4?pc_redir=1414184411&robot_redir=1

Why not just pour a sample into a test tube, stick a thermometer or thermocouple in it, and heat it gently with a bunsen (or alcohol) burner? Probably more accurate, definitely a lot cheaper.

Now that you mention it, that might be an interesting little experiment that could return some useful real world results quickly and cheaply. Hmmm...
 
Last edited:

want to quit

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 26, 2011
2,252
3,784
Germany/ Atlanta, GA
See, that kind of crap is something you should not have to deal with at $250-$300. I never talk bad about a company but from own experience and the horror stories I keep reading Hana sucks and that is of course only my own opinion.


My Hana 40 pin "floats" down but not back up. I have to coax it back up if I put an atty that doesn't touch
 

350ZMO

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 7, 2014
662
721
Alabama
www.ecigarette411.com
Why not just pour a sample into a test tube, stick a thermometer or thermocouple in it, and heat it gently with a bunsen (or alcohol) burner? Probably more accurate, definitely a lot cheaper.

Now that you mention it, that might be an interesting little experiment that could return some useful real world results quickly and cheaply. Hmmm...

Yes but, be careful with VG and an open flame, it does have a flash point.
 

KGie

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 13, 2014
328
282
Tampa, FL USA
:)
Yes but, be careful with VG and an open flame, it does have a flash point.

Thanks, yes, 320 to 350°F, to be exact. A(nother) good reason to do it under a hood (or outside).

Anyone want to make bottle rockets with me? :) (It's late, I'm getting punch drunk. (That's my story and I'm sticking with it.))
 
Last edited:

idioso

Full Member
Jun 15, 2013
35
21
United States
The dreaded Hana 510 center pin, rearing it's ugly head!
Pete .. it actually makes connection. I never get a "check atomizer" message when I press the button. I really think it's that my coil resistance jumps around so much that the baord thinks I've screwed something new on.

Hana hater ;)

edit: I think I fixed my issue. I think I might've removed and replaced my atty while it was still warm. I just let it set off of my Hana for a while. Put it back on a little bit ago chain vaping the crap out of it and it's not doing it now.
 
Last edited:

Pete54

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 30, 2009
2,637
3,412
Clearwater, Florida
Pete .. it actually makes connection. I never get a "check atomizer" message when I press the button. I really think it's that my coil resistance jumps around so much that the baord thinks I've screwed something new on.

Hana hater ;)

edit: I think I fixed my issue. I think I might've removed and replaced my atty while it was still warm. I just let it set off of my Hana for a while. Put it back on a little bit ago chain vaping the crap out of it and it's not doing it now.
I thought perhaps it might be making a good enough connection not to say "check atomizer" but not good enough to show a stable resistance. If it's back to working, great!
 

MordorMongo

Full Member
Jun 29, 2014
25
19
Indiana
Has anyone else noticed some coil sag after use with nickel so far besides me? Some of mine are almost beyond the point of repair, after 4-5 days or so...maybe 20-30ml of juice.

I know I've seen some mention of it other places but just wondering what you all have noticed.

Biggest factor in my limited experience seems to be longer legs = more sag, makes me wonder just how much hotter the legs are getting than the coil.
 

DejayRezme

Super Member
ECF Veteran
  • Mar 22, 2014
    910
    523
    Europe

    EuroChris

    Senior Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jul 24, 2014
    261
    207
    Norway
    Yeah. Have you seen the video? Not 100% professional science :D

    I think though the problem of non identical coils will be slightly less of a problem for nickel because if one coil gets hotter it increases in resistance and will equalize. A bit at least.

    Yeah, I saw the video. It could have been the cotton that was tucked in harder in one coil, but it was the same with both regular cotton and KGD.

    It's a good point that the resistance increases in the one that gets hotter, but still it's the average temperature that gets read. It's not a problem for me, since I mostly use single coils, but I imagine this can be a problem for other people.

    I'd like to see the same test done with one coil. :)
     

    spewny

    Senior Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Feb 27, 2014
    184
    121
    Atlanta, GA
    Finally getting solid touching builds on contact coils...THANK GOD!!! Trick for me has been a slight burn at 600F to make sure it is heating well, then a VERY gentle threading of the cotton to keep from deforming. Took me a few days to get it right with 28awg ni200 so don't give up. When it's right, this thing is friggin perfect :)
     

    want to quit

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 26, 2011
    2,252
    3,784
    Germany/ Atlanta, GA
    I think 600F is the melting point for nickel so I am not sure if that's pushing it a bit but as always don't listen to me I am an idiot with technical stuff. :)


    Finally getting solid touching builds on contact coils...THANK GOD!!! Trick for me has been a slight burn at 600F to make sure it is heating well, then a VERY gentle threading of the cotton to keep from deforming. Took me a few days to get it right with 28awg ni200 so don't give up. When it's right, this thing is friggin perfect :)
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread