Just to let y'all know, I did a nice interview with John and Brandon from Evolv that I'm putting up tomorrow. I found it very enlightening, and I'm sure many others will too. Will post back when it's ready......
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My experience thus far says the beta testers and Evolve got it right for how it works IMHO. My V5 build likes 18W. When I set it to 40 it immediately hits TC and I get TP messages, also there is a popping sound in the atty. That's droplets of juice cooking off. If I set it to 20W it ramps up and immediately hits TC and starts sagging the power and gives TP messages sooner but no popping. If I set it at 18W it ramps to above 20 comes back to 18 and I can draw a 3s puff before it starts sagging. It's like the volume setting ie power is a start point for the ramp up function and affects TC response. So I gotta adjust the power to my atty/build/fluid level which for me, is quite frequent. Another set of buttons for taste ie temperature may be ok but I have yet to see a need to change it as the taste is spot on for me at 410, only curiosity has me wanting to change it. Where as when I swap attys from a KF to a V5, there is definitely a need to change volume ie power. YMMV.
Get 'r up there! =)
Did you get a chance to ask about #1 temper nickel wire? I can't find it anywhere. I think they couldn't find it anywhere either which is why Brandon said he guesses it would work lol
The reason you need to limit the power setting is that, unless Evolv have implemented a very good control algorithm that can learn to tune itself, the temperature will overshoot. Take a look at this graph:
The blue line is the required temperature, rising to a set position when the fire button is pressed. The black line is the temperature if too much power is available. It overshoots and then over corrects. The red line is where the power setting is too low, it gets to temperature too slowly. The green line is the power set correctly, the overshoot is minimised and the temperature settles quickly around the set value.
(Ignore the text on the diagram. It is actually demonstrating a more complex algorithm, but the lines are right.)
The blue line is the required temperature, rising to a set position when the fire button is pressed. The black line is the temperature if too much power is available. It overshoots and then over corrects. The red line is where the power setting is too low, it gets to temperature too slowly. The green line is the power set correctly, the overshoot is minimised and the temperature settles quickly around the set value.
(Ignore the text on the diagram. It is actually demonstrating a more complex algorithm, but the lines are right.)
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A building question: I'm thinking of possibly making a DNA40 mod (might attempt with a cheaper clone chip first) out of a Stingray clone (if it'll fit, well see - using a 3 cm + 1 cm tube should fit the the chip). The positive out obviously goes to the 510 connector positive, the ground to the 510 negative, the battery positive to a pin (or something) that is isolated from the tube and only connects to the battery's positive pole. I'm unsure of the battery negative though. Is it ok to simply wire it to the tube body? Or will that short the mod? I mean, the ground (output negative) and battery negative would make direct contact. Hope I explained all of this in at least a semi-comprehensive way 
A building question: I'm thinking of possibly making a DNA40 mod (might attempt with a cheaper clone chip first) out of a Stingray clone (if it'll fit, well see - using a 3 cm + 1 cm tube should fit the the chip). The positive out obviously goes to the 510 connector positive, the ground to the 510 negative, the battery positive to a pin (or something) that is isolated from the tube and only connects to the battery's positive pole. I'm unsure of the battery negative though. Is it ok to simply wire it to the tube body? Or will that short the mod? I mean, the ground (output negative) and battery negative would make direct contact. Hope I explained all of this in at least a semi-comprehensive way
Ambitious!
Preliminary report. Just fired up the device.
Protovape XPV DNA40
Topper: Magma Clone by Infinite
First Build: single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice!
Wicking material: choices choices choices. /lol Lets go quick and dirty with 3MM Ekowool since I'm a little nervous about using wire I can barely see and need a beefy wick first. Wrap on a jig first. I did not preheat the coil to sqeeze the wraps. Matter of fact I forgot to wash the coil in my excitement. Then install the wick before I mount on the Magma clone. I wanted to make sure I did not distort the coil and this seemed a bit safer for my newb first try. Almost like starting over. HA! Wow that was easy. Lets squeeze the wraps together with my finger nail. Nice! /lol Coil with wick cut and installed in my Magma. Very very carefully tighten the post screws. Prime/fill and vape! Nice!
NO Nickel 200 wire taste! That was a concern of mine. I'm vaping Halo's Southern Classic 50/50 6MG and comparing it's taste to the same juice on my KF + Provari 2.5. Seems about the same. Tunning for taste via Tempature and currently set for 30 watts with 480F. Tons of vapor using the smallest air hole and a single coil. Removed the topper and installed again just for kicks. It did ask me if it's the same one or new one.
Protovape XPV DNA40
Topper: Magma Clone by Infinite
First Build: single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice!
Wicking material: choices choices choices. /lol Lets go quick and dirty with 3MM Ekowool since I'm a little nervous about using wire I can barely see and need a beefy wick first. Wrap on a jig first. I did not preheat the coil to sqeeze the wraps. Matter of fact I forgot to wash the coil in my excitement. Then install the wick before I mount on the Magma clone. I wanted to make sure I did not distort the coil and this seemed a bit safer for my newb first try. Almost like starting over. HA! Wow that was easy. Lets squeeze the wraps together with my finger nail. Nice! /lol Coil with wick cut and installed in my Magma. Very very carefully tighten the post screws. Prime/fill and vape! Nice!
NO Nickel 200 wire taste! That was a concern of mine. I'm vaping Halo's Southern Classic 50/50 6MG and comparing it's taste to the same juice on my KF + Provari 2.5. Seems about the same. Tunning for taste via Tempature and currently set for 30 watts with 480F. Tons of vapor using the smallest air hole and a single coil. Removed the topper and installed again just for kicks. It did ask me if it's the same one or new one.
Particularly as this would be my first attempt at any modding, and I expect to be terrible at it
That's why it would probably be best to try with a cheap clone board first.
The reason you need to limit the power setting is that, unless Evolv have implemented a very good control algorithm that can learn to tune itself, the temperature will overshoot. Take a look at this graph:
The blue line is the required temperature, rising to a set position when the fire button is pressed. The black line is the temperature if too much power is available. It overshoots and then over corrects. The red line is where the power setting is too low, it gets to temperature too slowly. The green line is the power set correctly, the overshoot is minimised and the temperature settles quickly around the set value.
(Ignore the text on the diagram. It is actually demonstrating a more complex algorithm, but the lines are right.)
You are right, however while I don't think it learns over time, I do think they have implemented a fairly good predictive algorithm which minimizes overshoot. At times it can be hard to tell the difference between max wattage and lower wattages.
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I got mine today too...same experience only cotton.....32g on a 2mm about 14 wraps got me to .33. I don't think you can or need to pinch anyway.
There is no metal taste. I get more of a metal taste from torched Kanthal. Fired up one of my Kanthal builds on it too. I definitely get a nicer vape off of the nickel TCed!
Congrats Senior...happy vaping! I also love the wheel to dial the temp and voltage up and down...LOL still learning some settings. This baby feels nice in my hand, I like the tactile feel around the window and the button. I will never have trouble finding the button in the dark. And it does not roll! haha!
The reason you need to limit the power setting is that, unless Evolv have implemented a very good control algorithm that can learn to tune itself, the temperature will overshoot. Take a look at this graph:
The blue line is the required temperature, rising to a set position when the fire button is pressed. The black line is the temperature if too much power is available. It overshoots and then over corrects. The red line is where the power setting is too low, it gets to temperature too slowly. The green line is the power set correctly, the overshoot is minimised and the temperature settles quickly around the set value.
(Ignore the text on the diagram. It is actually demonstrating a more complex algorithm, but the lines are right.)
Rurwin, this isn't a scope trace of an Evolv 40, is it? Or is it ?
I'd give it a go with a DNA 20 or 30 chip on a stingray clone, and if it works well, I'd get an authentic stingray and put the dna 40 in thatParticularly as this would be my first attempt at any modding, and I expect to be terrible at it
YEA! I was worried about that wheel thingy since that's a first for me. I likie! Easy peasy with a nice feel.
I found Narvana! LOL Kept vaping with my Magma waiting for death aka that harsh dry hit which makes me cough and caused me not to use my gaggle of drippers a great deal. Bingo! A non event. What does happen for me is the taste of the vape begins to fade as in it's no longer that bright yummy that Ive been vaping for over a year. It's a weak flavor. I also noticed my vapor production drops. No dry hits. Just fill/drip the beast. That's a game changer for me.
BTW, congrats to the Evolv Beta geeks and Evolv for a job well done!
Looks like a standard controls theory chart I had in college 30 years ago, showing underdamped, overdamped and critically damped cases.
It appears to me the 40 is purposely overshooting to get the coils warmed up faster, then it falls under closed loop control and it also appears the amount of overshoot is determined in part at least by the wattage setting and resistance.
That's it exactly, great explanation, great words. That's where I adjust my draw and power down until I get that yummy taste for the entire length of the draw, even if that draw is short. Better to take a couple shorter yummy draws than a long weak one.
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A building question: I'm thinking of possibly making a DNA40 mod (might attempt with a cheaper clone chip first) out of a Stingray clone (if it'll fit, well see - using a 3 cm + 1 cm tube should fit the the chip). The positive out obviously goes to the 510 connector positive, the ground to the 510 negative, the battery positive to a pin (or something) that is isolated from the tube and only connects to the battery's positive pole. I'm unsure of the battery negative though. Is it ok to simply wire it to the tube body? Or will that short the mod? I mean, the ground (output negative) and battery negative would make direct contact. Hope I explained all of this in at least a semi-comprehensive way
I urge everyone to try a DIY, its not that hard. There are two skills needed, the use of simple hand tools like drills and files and soldering. While the mechanical work may result in a gimpy looking rig...like mine LOL, the soldering skill has to be solid. And you need a soldering station with a 2mm or smaller tip. If you don't have that, phone a friend.
There is a pdf on Evolv's website that shows all the connections to the board and what wire to use. Using the case as ground is fine but unless it is copper or brass, you will need a mechanical ground connection, ya cant solder SS or aluminum.
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@350ZMO
I'm planning to use 2x 3.7v 1200mAh LiPo on my next box mod using DNA40. Previously on my DNA30 mod I'm using 4 3A fuses as secondary precaution and my question is on DNA40 chip, do I need to use 6 3A fuses?
I'm planning to use 2x 3.7v 1200mAh LiPo on my next box mod using DNA40. Previously on my DNA30 mod I'm using 4 3A fuses as secondary precaution and my question is on DNA40 chip, do I need to use 6 3A fuses?
Good to see more folks in here getting their mods in and enjoying the vape. Ya'll have better words and can explain it better than I have.
You know there is a really good expert on this topic here in the forums, they posted in a DIY thread but I don't remember where, I'll try to find it. In the mean time I don't consider myself an expert and I've yet to fuse mine but I have thought about doing it so I'll tell you what I would do. First, the only reason for a fuse is to protect the battery(s) in case of an internal short or putting in one battery of two in opposite polarity. The board doesn't need it. Second, are you paralleling the fuses? I don't do that, I don't think that's a good idea, I would use one fuse per battery that has a little margin and not slow blow either. Littelfuse mini automotive fuses are popular but realize that a 7.5amp will blow at ~10 amps in less than one second. So you really need to know the fuse specs as well as the battery specs before selecting. According to the datasheet on evolv's website, the DNA40 draws 16A max so I would use a fuse that blew instantly at 20A for some margin. Realize the fuse may be rated lower, just depends on the fuse. And make sure the LiPos can withstand 20A continuous discharge.
Found it:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/518846-about-fuses-choosing-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html
Looking at the time current characteristic curve from littlefuse it looks like a 15A will blow at 20A in 10 seconds. That's not what I would call a fast blow but it is what is. That's probably what I would use if using an automotive type. Finding a resettable PTC would be cool too.
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/automotive/datasheets/fuses/passenger-car-and-commercial-vehicle/blade-fuses/littelfuse_atof_datasheet.pdf
Trip current is a little high but its the only PPTC I could find with a 16A hold.
http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/BD280-1130-20-16/?qs=bZ3KlHYEm0Y61%252bMNFrrJgA%3d%3d
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