I heard from a beta tester, and can anyone confirm, that reverse battery protection only works on single cells, but in mods like the Vapor Flask, you can still fry the board if you put one battery in correctly and the other upside-down.
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That doesn't sound right.
If the batteries are wired in parallel, then the only problem you would have is that the batteries immediately short-circuit each other and vent. One might hope there was a diode in there to prevent it. But apart from fire damage, the DNA40 would not be stressed. I can imagine that there might be a fuse between the cells that might blow and render the mod unusable, but the DNA40 itself will be fine.
If the batteries are wired in series, then the resultant voltage will be around zero. That shouldn't stress the DNA40 either and should be rather safe.
rurwin,
I am pretty sure the batteries are in parallel (a poor man's 26650) and I don't think they use diode isolation (too much voltage drop) so if you do put one in correctly and the other the wrong way you will definitely damage the batteries but then they say the DNA-40 is protect and don't mention what will happen to the batteries. This is just my opinion nothing I know for sure.
I don't understand why the use of flattop batteries is so popular. If they used button tops like ProVape ProVari does it would solve a lot of potential problems and the use of diodes would be unnecessary because the ProVape design uses a mechanical solution to prevent the batteries from making contact when installed in reverse.
Don't know why the don't consult end users... but then what do we know.
The P3 can use flat tops. Also, if you exclude flat tops, you exclude the best batteries.rurwin,
I am pretty sure the batteries are in parallel (a poor man's 26650) and I don't think they use diode isolation (too much voltage drop) so if you do put one in correctly and the other the wrong way you will definitely damage the batteries but then they say the DNA-40 is protect and don't mention what will happen to the batteries. This is just my opinion nothing I know for sure.
I don't understand why the use of flattop batteries is so popular. If they used button tops like ProVape ProVari does it would solve a lot of potential problems and the use of diodes would be unnecessary because the ProVape design uses a mechanical solution to prevent the batteries from making contact when installed in reverse.
Don't know why the don't consult end users... but then what do we know.
rurwin,
I am pretty sure the batteries are in parallel (a poor man's 26650) and I don't think they use diode isolation (too much voltage drop) so if you do put one in correctly and the other the wrong way you will definitely damage the batteries but then they say the DNA-40 is protect and don't mention what will happen to the batteries. This is just my opinion nothing I know for sure.
I don't understand why the use of flattop batteries is so popular. If they used button tops like ProVape ProVari does it would solve a lot of potential problems and the use of diodes would be unnecessary because the ProVape design uses a mechanical solution to prevent the batteries from making contact when installed in reverse.
Don't know why the don't consult end users... but then what do we know.
18650's were never meant to be consumer batteries. They were most commonly used to make laptop battery packs so having a button top was an un-needed extra cost.
Yup - I read that the P3 was able to use either. That is a nice improvement.
I think it is only an issue with juices known to be gunkers. My Kayfun is fine so far and so is one dripper. But man the coil I have with Like a Sir running is gunked badly after 3 days. To be fair it gunks quick on Kanthal also but now I don't have an option to clean w/o damage to soft nickel coil.
It does seem like the others are all more clean after the amount of mls ran vs kanthal so I think overall you are correct.
My rDNA 40 won't ship for a few days but I did try swishing a cruddy Kanthal coil while firing in a bit of water in a glass dish. It took three or four changes of water but it did come clean. I only tried this once and it was Kanthal rather than Ni200 so no promises it will work. I also wonder if you could hold the coil over the sink or a dish while firing and drip water on it from a juice bottle to clean the coil?
Boiling water will clean most burned food off of cooking utensils but it won't clean hard carbon off things like broiling pans and grills so I expect there will be a limit in how effective it would be in cleaning a really filthy coil. Maybe the temperature limitation on the DNA 40 will prevent really hard carbon juice build up?
Not the board. The danger is discharge between the batteries and overheating/vent/worse. The solution many modders are employing is PTC fuses between the batteries.
I bought nickel non-resistant wire the other day. Is that not the same as NI200.
Won't my build work as a temperature builds?
If it is not Ni200 what is it?
I don't know how this happened but I was answering your first post and it got attached to your second post - "Go Figure"
I have to keep editing this to figure out how I replied to something you haven't posted yet.
Anyway Pure Nickel and Ni200 is the same thing so it should be no problem. Ni200 is like 99.6% pure.
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Should work fine. NI200 is > 99% nickel and nickel is nickel. One difference might be that tempered nickel wire is not as soft and easier to work with compared to softer annealed nickel wire.
Thanks! Good tip and I'm going to try it with my most used Ni200 build. I would suggest that you turn TC OFF before you do this. That way you can blast the coil with as many watts as you wish and in theory at least, increasing the "heat" of the coil may produce better results or faster results.
In theory that should do nothing since water vaporizes even quicker at 100°C (212°F). So the coil should never get hotter than that inside water. So it will get the max watts anyways.
If it is not Ni200 what is it?
I don't know how this happened but I was answering your first post and it got attached to your second post - "Go Figure"
I have to keep editing this to figure out how I replied to something you haven't posted yet.
Anyway Pure Nickel and Ni200 is the same thing so it should be no problem. Ni200 is like 99.6% pure.
Ha, that's was probably meanwhile I was uploading a picture into my post.
The company who sold the non-resistance wire did send out a newsletter today that they now have DNA40 wire in stock, NI200. I got a bit bummed out..
SK,
I think I remember in one of Brandon's videos with P.B. that the legs can still get hot but it is not something to worry about as I remember. i.e. they don't cause a problem just don't touch them right after firing.
Hardemyr,
Boy I don't think I would even give it a second thought 99.6% Ni200 and 100% Nickel is the same thing assuming it is 100%. I notice someone said it was not annealed if that is also true you are better off. From all I have gather so far the annealed is really soft which makes wicking a little more difficult.
But if you do decide to buy the "Ni200" I would suggest 30 Ga. it has a little more resistance per foot. The 28 Ga. is so low you have to use a lot of turns and if you plan to go parallel coils things will get pretty tight in your atty.
PS - I must have answered at the same moment you added the picture. Gee I thing I am going to run out and buy a Lotto Ticket.
I just felt the need to inform everyone that I sat at my vape desk from 1am to 4am last night to set up my veritas with nickel. After 10 foot of wire I came to the conclusion that it will stay a kanthal rda. This is still upsetting me today lol.
Question: How do we get rid of dirty coils if we cant burn em?
Question: How do we get rid of dirty coils if we cant burn em?
This came up on the Eleaf Istick thread...
Is there 2 versions of the DNA 40 board? DNA 40 and DNA 40D? XPV and VS both say they're using the DNA 40D. I just passed it off as a typo since the DNA 20D and DNA 30D had the "D" designation.
Is there 2 versions of the DNA 40 board? DNA 40 and DNA 40D? XPV and VS both say they're using the DNA 40D. I just passed it off as a typo since the DNA 20D and DNA 30D had the "D" designation.
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