Official DNA 40 introduction

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KenD

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DejayRezme,

You do realize the 0.1 ohms is the absolute bottom end of the range for Ni200 coils on the dna-40.

You might want to try a coil that is more toward the middle of the allowable resistance range which would be 0.4 ohms. But in any case I'll bet a lot of your problems disappear if you at least increase the coil resistance to 0.2 ohms. Sitting on the very bottom edge of the systems tolerance seem like a good way to have all kinds of strange problems.

Like when I try to use a 1.6 ohm Kanthal coil on a mod that has a lower limit of 1.6 ohms sometimes it fires sometimes it doesn't.

PS - this is the range from the Evolv manual:
Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold
min: .10 Ohm
middle .4 Ohm
max: 1.0 Ohm
It should soft limit though, and building a 0.4 ohm coil (particularly if we're talking dual coils) would result in a huge coil with ni200, wouldn't it?
 

350ZMO

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What sometimes works screwing off the and pressing fire so "check atty" comes up, letting the atty cool off for quite some time then reconnecting it and selecting "new coil". The chip detects 0.10 ohm correctly and temp protection works again. You can suck air through the atty to let it off cool more quickly.

EDIT: Well I just tightened the post screws some more and now I did get 0.10 ohm base resistance again, but temp protection still didn't kick in. But this issue might be just related to unreliable post connection. I'm still curious on why the shown base / reference resistance "creeps upward".

Maybe my juice or wicking is better now so I can vape safely at higher power?

Yep happened to me on two occasions, once when the center post screw was loose and on another the center screw in the 510 wasn't making good contact. Since we're dealing with really low resistances here, check those screws!

Yes the liquid is what takes the power to vaporize so the more juice you can flow and surface area the more power it will take.
 

want to quit

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Speaking of dual coil. i have always been a big anti dual coil guy and still am. I think it's pointless as I get the same of not better vape of a single coil but whatever floats your boat Ans keeps you of cigs is fine with me. Than again, I have very limited dual coil experience. If set up in a rda it's nice but not worth the trouble over a fantastic single coil set up IMO.

Now, with temp control how pointless or more effective do dual coils become?
 

DejayRezme

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    You do realize the 0.1 ohms is the absolute bottom end of the range for Ni200 coils on the DNA-40.

    It's quite possible that the low resistance does reduce the "precision" of the temperature measurement a bit, but Brandon said it does fire lower. It is just "soft limited" by the ampere and you can't fire your full ampere.

    I think my issues DID come from the bad post connection. If 10% of the resistance happen on the posts, it changes the whole temperature / resistance response curve. It could also make sense that the DNA40 could adjust the base resistance depending on this curve. If your post connection got loosened and the atty cools off the chip might actually detect the "low point" of the temperature / resistance curve and reset the resistance. I'll keep an eye on this and appologize if I'm talking nonsense and confuse people, but I'll wager that the most common response to people having problems with the TP will become "check your post connections".

    I think it's pretty much impossible to make a 0.4 ohms build, especially with dual coils. Even with extremely finicky AWG32 wire you would have to make 23.5 wraps on a 3mm diameter for dual coil! 12 wraps for single coil might work though. But you probably would have to handwrap them around a wick. So overall the DNA40 has to work with these low ohms.
     

    MordorMongo

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    For those having atty act wonky once removed and put back on.....make sure the 510 is clean and nothing has leaked down on it. My R91 is a leaker and one tiny drop on the 510 caused exactly what you guys are referring to.

    Same with bottom of atty of course.

    I change from drippers to tanks quite frequently and sometimes I take off and changed my mind so put same one back on....I've only had that issue once and there was a discernable, but tiny, drop of ejuice there. YMMV.
     

    want to quit

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    Lol! Shut up my german friend. I am out here selling our motherlands brew while typing in the car and you give me a hard time? Unbelievable sir. Bettet help me make this stupid nickel work on my veritas :(

    Monty_python_foot.png

    You have gone over to the dark side of imperialism my friend!
     

    350ZMO

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    Something just doesn't seem right. I hate having to unscrew my atty every 10 minutes for it to work properly. I'm far from an expert on this stuff but showing almost 400 degrees dang near instantly on a saturated coil doesn't seem accurate.

    It sounds like a bad connection issue. Check all your connections, post screws, center post screw, adjustable 510 screw. How many wraps what size etc?
     

    MordorMongo

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    It's quite possible that the low resistance does reduce the "precision" of the temperature measurement a bit, but Brandon said it does fire lower. It is just "soft limited" by the ampere and you can't fire your full ampere.

    I think my issues DID come from the bad post connection. If 10% of the resistance happen on the posts, it changes the whole temperature / resistance response curve. It could also make sense that the DNA40 could adjust the base resistance depending on this curve. If your post connection got loosened and the atty cools off the chip might actually detect the "low point" of the temperature / resistance curve and reset the resistance. I'll keep an eye on this and appologize if I'm talking nonsense and confuse people, but I'll wager that the most common response to people having problems with the TP will become "check your post connections".

    I think it's pretty much impossible to make a 0.4 ohms build, especially with dual coils. Even with extremely finicky AWG32 wire you would have to make 23.5 wraps on a 3mm diameter for dual coil! 12 wraps for single coil might work though. But you probably would have to handwrap them around a wick. So overall the DNA40 has to work with these low ohms.

    I put a 0.5 single coil in a dripper today, 13 wraps, 32 gauge, 3mm ID. I will say it works very well in that range compared to lower....quicker response time and seems easier to adjust to exactly where you want it.
     

    HolmanGT

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    It should soft limit though, and building a 0.4 ohm coil (particularly if we're talking dual coils) would result in a huge coil with ni200, wouldn't it?

    Ken,

    You have me at a distinct disadvantage I will not have my Vapo Flask DNA-40 and Ni200 wire until Monday (God willing or is that the USPS...).

    Yes I know what your saying but in reading the mail here in this thread I ordered 32, 30 and 28 Ga. Ni200. From what I have read so far in this thread the folks using 28 gauge wire have some resistances that are far below the lower limit for Ni200.

    My thoughts on this have been continually shifting as folks start posting more hands on technical issues.

    My current thoughts and I am absolutely sure you won't like it is this; build wick coil assemblies' where you take the wick you want to use and wind it with 32 (maybe 30) install them even for parallel setups (which most of mine are) and when they are really gunked up pull them pitch-em and install new.

    Now I know that is going to rub a lot of folks wrong but until this smart guy "Brandon from Evolv" gets on this thread and starts making suggestions and giving pointers I am going to take the DNA-40 PDF file from Evolv as the Gospel.

    I am just trying to figure reasonable solutions so please don't get mad at me (the messenger). I will also tell you that reading about some of the difficulties my build and pitch coils better work for me when I get my unit this Monday or Mr. Brandon is going to start getting some very unfriendly emails from yours truly.

    :confused: :facepalm: :confused:
     

    want to quit

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    Coil build is no issue but directing the coil and moving it is basically impossible on the veritas.

    I love this rda but gave up on it. It will stay kanthal and I just have to get a plume vale or the like for nickel builds.

    WTQ,

    What wasn't working for you on the Veritas?

    I still think you can dry burn Nickel, rinse it and go IMHO. Or use the Rip Tripper method of heating the coil until it glows and put it under running cold tap water. After all doesn't Kanthal have nickel as one of the components?
     

    DejayRezme

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    Speaking of dual coil. i have always been a big anti dual coil guy and still am. I think it's pointless as I get the same of not better vape of a single coil but whatever floats your boat Ans keeps you of cigs is fine with me. Than again, I have very limited dual coil experience. If set up in a rda it's nice but not worth the trouble over a fantastic single coil set up IMO.

    Theoretically you can get twice the performance from dual coil than from a single coil because of twice the wicking and airflow per surface area of the coil. The DNA40 could actually should show you that you practically double the max wattage you can vape safely at, double the vapor and/or reduce the temperature. The main problem is of course resistance because you can't easily set up a serial coils instead of parallel coils. Of course you can argue that you can produce enough vapor from a single coil so dual coil is just excessive :)
     

    KenD

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    Ken,

    You have me at a distinct disadvantage I will not have my Vapo Flask DNA-40 and Ni200 wire until Monday (God willing or is that the USPS...).

    Yes I know what your saying but in reading the mail here in this thread I ordered 32, 30 and 28 Ga. Ni200. From what I have read so far in this thread the folks using 28 gauge wire have some resistances that are far below the lower limit for Ni200.

    My thoughts on this have been continually shifting as folks start posting more hands on technical issues.

    My current thoughts and I am absolutely sure you won't like it is this; build wick coil assemblies' where you take the wick you want to use and wind it with 32 (maybe 30) install them even for parallel setups (which most of mine are) and when they are really gunked up pull them pitch-em and install new.

    Now I know that is going to rub a lot of folks wrong but until this smart guy "Brandon from Evolv" gets on this thread and starts making suggestions and giving pointers I am going to take the DNA-40 PDF file from Evolv as the Gospel.

    I am just trying to figure reasonable solutions so please don't get mad at me (the messenger). I will also tell you that reading about some of the difficulties my build and pitch coils better work for me when I get my unit this Monday or Mr. Brandon is going to start getting some very unfriendly emails from yours truly.

    :confused: :facepalm: :confused:
    No, you have me at a disadvantage. I don't have a DNA40 device yet, and don't expect to have one for a couple of months at least. I plan to build my own mod, and I think I'll need to do some tests runs with cheap DNA clones or a DNA30 board first :)

    What I know is only what I've read here and elsewhere, and this thread has been very interesting and informative. I'm looking forward to hearing about your experiences when you get your Vaporflask.
     

    want to quit

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    I produce enough vapor with a single coil and dual coil is just excessive my friend. Lol, just kidding I base my amazing comments on a few and simple experiments with my reo and a lil cyclone in dual coil set up meaning I am not experienced enough to even make any statements in regards to dual coils.

    Your comment however has me interested to at least give it a go. Did you see Werder today? I am so upset I could punch a wall.

    Theoretically you can get twice the performance from dual coil than from a single coil because of twice the wicking and airflow per surface area of the coil. The DNA40 could actually should show you that you practically double the max wattage you can vape safely at, double the vapor and/or reduce the temperature. The main problem is of course resistance because you can't easily set up a serial coils instead of parallel coils. Of course you can argue that you can produce enough vapor from a single coil so dual coil is just excessive :)
     

    HolmanGT

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    Coil build is no issue but directing the coil and moving it is basically impossible on the veritas.

    I love this rda but gave up on it. It will stay kanthal and I just have to get a plume vale or the like for nickel builds.

    WTQ,

    I know what you mean I have an RDA that is He!! to build with Kanthal I wouldn't even consider Ni200 on it. It is a cheap Clone RDA but it is hard to believe that ANY RDA would be hard to build so I have plenty of empathy for you.

    I have several tank attys that are a piece of cake to build and even my Fogger 4.4s are pretty easy and they are dual coils.
     

    want to quit

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    Hello to Sweden! you guys rock. Just wanted to throw that into the mix :)


    No, you have me at a disadvantage. I don't have a DNA40 device yet, and don't expect to have one for a couple of months at least. I plan to build my own mod, and I think I'll need to do some tests runs with cheap DNA clones or a DNA30 board first :)

    What I know is only what I've read here and elsewhere, and this thread has been very interesting and informative. I'm looking forward to hearing about your experiences when you get your Vaporflask.
     

    KenD

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    Speaking of dual coil. i have always been a big anti dual coil guy and still am. I think it's pointless as I get the same of not better vape of a single coil but whatever floats your boat Ans keeps you of cigs is fine with me. Than again, I have very limited dual coil experience. If set up in a rda it's nice but not worth the trouble over a fantastic single coil set up IMO.

    Now, with temp control how pointless or more effective do dual coils become?
    For me, my favourite RTAs are dual coil designs. The Fogger v4, the Aqua, most likely the Fogger v5 and Orchid that I've recently ordered. I set up my Kayfun/Russians with dual coils some time ago and I actually prefer them that way.
     

    want to quit

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    Just sucks since the veritas is really the only rda I ever owned that performs well for my mouth to lung inhales and doesn't leak at all.

    WTQ,

    I know what you mean I have an RDA that is He!! to build with Kanthal I wouldn't even consider Ni200 on it. It is a cheap Clone RDA but it is hard to believe that ANY RDA would be hard to build so I have plenty of empathy for you.

    I have several tank attys that are a piece of cake to build and even my Fogger 4.4s are pretty easy and they are dual coils.
     

    want to quit

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    I invite you for dinner if you are able to set up a dual coil build with nickel on a kayfun. It might be possible but it will probably be hard unless the Id of the coil doesn't have to be 3mm.

    So, speaking of kayfuns, do you think that svoemesto is basing their new v4 on the dna40? Phil said the design is TOTALLY different to their old kayfun design so maybe we get a bigger deck or the like to make bigger builds easier? CANNOT wait for them to release the new version.

    For me, my favourite RTAs are dual coil designs. The Fogger v4, the Aqua, most likely the Fogger v5 and Orchid that I've recently ordered. I set up my Kayfun/Russians with dual coils some time ago and I actually prefer them that way.
     

    want to quit

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    Nice! Friends of mine from the States went to Finland this summer and loved it. Afterwards they came to Germany for my wedding and the first thing they said and I quote "after traveling through Finland Germany seems quite disappointing." Needless to say I almost punched him lol

    I'm actually from Finland originally, but I do prefer living in Sweden :)
     
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