Official DNA 40 introduction

[Pete54]

Just received my DNA40 Vaporshark! Yea, baby!!!! Coiling with Ni200 tonight!

Ya, we need picture! Love to see how they did the magnetic door.

 

[Darkly spectr]

I am getting more and more interested in the dna 40 but honestly it kinda scares me to get one in the US. european websites selling them tend to upmark them a ton.

for example. first website in europe that has the new dna 40 vapor flask

319 euro which comes out to 397 dollars! While the US price is like 299.

hell in terms of RBA. the big dripper in US 129 dollars. in EU 186 dollars.

urgh.

but then again if I buy any dna 40 products in the US and it breaks bam I have to get it shipped to the US. hell do companies like vaporshark even do warranty work if its overseas.

So what is the cheapest DNA 40 mod out there so far?

god I need to push my work (well I technically work for my parents) to finally get that 3D printer they have been talking about. home made dual 28650 DNA 40 box mod. ahoy

fiddling around with 3D programs now. kinda of want to make 100% customizable box mods and offer them for pretty cheap to people. big dreams ahead.

 

[HolmanGT]

.07ohms. I rebuilt after the 3mm using a screwdriver shaft, not sure the size, but I think they are closer to 4 or 5. Here are some comparison pics:
View attachment 387824
View attachment 387825
View attachment 387826

V5 on the left, its diameter is like the original and last V4, then a V4.bigdeck which was in the middle of the V4s, like kiwi its my favorite of the V4s and then the BIG Fogger. Significantly larger deck and juice channels and post screws. I've taken the neg post out for a vertical coil build.

Thanks for going to all the trouble to go pictorial.

That sure makes it a little easier to see the differences between the three. Now all I have to do is find a Fogger "V4 Big Deck". When I got mine I had a chance to get one but went for the newer model... newer is not always better and the V5 is a real PITA.

Regards,
George

 

[TheKiwi]

Had to rebuild this fella. Really wish someone can prove definitively it's ok to dry burn the coils haha.

Hi Ni200 30ga, I still hate you

Bunny ear

Best that I can tidy up the coil

Juiced up

The double insertion method works waaaaaaaay better holy crap


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[peraspera]

Ya, we need picture! Love to see how they did the magnetic door.

Posted a pic in the VaporShark rDNA thread.

 

[dougward1960]

kiwi brandon said its ok to dry burn your coils and if doing contact coils all coils need to be TOUCHING it was posted in one of the 5-6 dna40 threads

 

[TheKiwi]

kiwi brandon said its ok to dry burn your coils and if doing contact coils all coils need to be TOUCHING it was posted in one of the 5-6 dna40 threads

OH. Hmm ok didn't know that. Thanks for it!


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[dougward1960]

yep it was either in the vapor flask thread or the issues with the dna 40 thread but after reading them all i cant be sure. dont glow them like we do with kanthal but enough to get the hot spots out

 

[dougward1960]

This is an e-mail, I recieved from Brandon:

? Message: Hi Folks, I am getting conflicting info regarding wrapping Ni200 coils for the DNA40. Should the coils be spaced, or wrapped touching? If touching, do we dry burn (not in temp control mode) ,to squeeze the coil, to remove hot spots, and get the coil to glow from the inside out, just like Kanthal? Thanks for any info you can give me.

Answer:
Hi Jeff,
If you are building a coil with wraps touching, make sure all of the wraps are touching to avoid hot spots. It is trickier with Ni-200 than with Kanthal but I've successfully built miro-coils that perform well.

Yes you can dry burn the coils, it tempers the wire a bit and burns off the oil they use in the drawing process.

Thanks,
Brandon Ward
Evolv, Inc.

kiwi it was this thread heres the post

 

[HolmanGT]

kiwi brandon said its ok to dry burn your coils and if doing contact coils all coils need to be TOUCHING it was posted in one of the 5-6 dna40 threads

OH. Hmm ok didn't know that. Thanks for it!


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I think I already said this but hey why not... How in the He!! would you ever be sure ALL coils are touching and stay touching. It just sounds like a good way to shot your own foot off.

I believe Brandon said that but I won't do it and before I thought about it I tried it and any coil that was supposed to be a "touching" coil would give me the occasional Volts instead of Temp. I don't have any idea why it does that but to the best of my observation it has only happened with touching coils.

What I need is an atty with a big enough build deck to handle a Ni200 size coil (dual coils) that is at least 0.2 total ohms or better.

@ 350 or anyone else that has used the 28mm Fogger would it be a good choice? Actually I want yours Kiwi the Fogger V4 with the large build deck but I can't find one anywhere.

 

[dougward1960]

I think I already said this but hey why not... How in the He!! would you ever be sure ALL coils are touching and stay touching. It just sounds like a good way to shot your own foot off.

I believe Brandon said that but I won't do it and before I thought about it I tried it and any coil that was supposed to be a "touching" coil would give me the occasional Volts instead of Temp. I don't have any idea why it does that but to the best of my observation it has only happened with touching coils.

What I need is an atty with a big enough build deck to handle a Ni200 size coil (dual coils) that is at least 0.2 total ohms or better.

@ 350 or anyone else that has used the 28mm Fogger would it be a good choice? Actually I want yours Kiwi the Fogger V4 with the large build deck but I can't find one anywhere.

i think the key words in what brandon said was "its trickier than with kanthal" but if you dry burn and pinch your coils it does work but its a lot of work so i just do spaced myself and still dry burn because you can still have one coil hotter than the rest and i just play with it till all coils glow evenly

 

[drmarble]

I am getting more and more interested in the DNA 40 but honestly it kinda scares me to get one in the US. european websites selling them tend to upmark them a ton.

for example. first website in europe that has the new DNA 40 vapor flask

319 euro which comes out to 397 dollars! While the US price is like 299.

hell in terms of RBA. the big dripper in US 129 dollars. in EU 186 dollars.

urgh.

but then again if I buy any DNA 40 products in the US and it breaks bam I have to get it shipped to the US. hell do companies like vaporshark even do warranty work if its overseas.

So what is the cheapest DNA 40 mod out there so far?

god I need to push my work (well I technically work for my parents) to finally get that 3D printer they have been talking about. home made dual 28650 DNA 40 box mod. ahoy

fiddling around with 3D programs now. kinda of want to make 100% customizable box mods and offer them for pretty cheap to people. big dreams ahead.

I think this is the cheapest from a very reputable manufacturer with product that ships quickly: XPV DNA-40D with Temperature Protection | Protovapor.com
If vapedojo has any bap 40's left you could look at them bapgood makes nice dual 18650 mods.

 

[Rossum]

for example. first website in europe that has the new DNA 40 vapor flask

319 euro which comes out to 397 dollars! While the US price is like 299.

hell in terms of RBA. the big dripper in US 129 dollars. in EU 186 dollars.

Much of the price difference is accounted for by the fact that we have no VAT in the US, while retail prices quoted in the EU almost always include your VAT, which in Belgium would be 21%, right? Plus, the importer probably had to pay some duties and shipping isn't free either.

 

[DejayRezme]

So what is the cheapest DNA 40 mod out there so far?

I feel your pain... damn vat and import fees. For importing you'll only pay 21% tax though, so depending
on shipping it's still way cheaper. And a european vendor won't be able to offer warranty without sending
it on to the manufacturer. So better buy directly, without a "middle man".

The cheapest is certainly DIY: Hana Mod clone case from fasttech (16€) DNA40 chip (60€) optional varitube 510 connector and tap (20€). Oh and some epoxy to hopefully fix that damn screen garble issue.

If you're planning on 3D printing and making mods anyway it might be a good project. I do too btw, still have to get my 3D printer working though.

What I need is an atty with a big enough build deck to handle a Ni200 size coil (dual coils) that is at least 0.2 total ohms or better.

@ 350 or anyone else that has used the 28mm Fogger would it be a good choice? Actually I want yours Kiwi the Fogger V4 with the large build deck but I can't find one anywhere.

If you want higher ohm the best way is probably to try titanium wire.

If you want really big surface area I think the best way to go is with vertical coils and outside wicking. Theoretically outside wicking "scales" better since you can add more to the outside.

I've got the big fogger but never used it. The build quality was quite bad.

 

[350ZMO]

I think I already said this but hey why not... How in the He!! would you ever be sure ALL coils are touching and stay touching. It just sounds like a good way to shot your own foot off.

I believe Brandon said that but I won't do it and before I thought about it I tried it and any coil that was supposed to be a "touching" coil would give me the occasional Volts instead of Temp. I don't have any idea why it does that but to the best of my observation it has only happened with touching coils.

What I need is an atty with a big enough build deck to handle a Ni200 size coil (dual coils) that is at least 0.2 total ohms or better.

@ 350 or anyone else that has used the 28mm Fogger would it be a good choice? Actually I want yours Kiwi the Fogger V4 with the large build deck but I can't find one anywhere.

How about .25 ohm?

View attachment 388026
View attachment 388027
View attachment 388028

I cannot tell much of a difference between how this vapes and the .07 ohm, but there ya are. I just ordered a V5 BIG Fogger from fleabay, I like the top fill.

 

[SheerLuckHolmes]

rDNA 30 side by side with rDNA 40 VaporSharks:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=854364707917465&set=p.854364707917465&type=1

 

[freedogg]

Link didn't work for me.

 

[dougward1960]

Link didn't work for me.

nope link didnt work here either

 

[HolmanGT]

How about .25 ohm?

View attachment 388026
View attachment 388027
View attachment 388028

I cannot tell much of a difference between how this vapes and the .07 ohm, but there ya are. I just ordered a V5 BIG Fogger from fleabay, I like the top fill.

Thanks 350,

I am going to try again. I assume that is 32 Ga 12 wraps 3mm ID. But first I am going to order the Big Fogger V5 I was looking at last night. Apparently great minds...

I'll let you know how it goes.

PS - Did you wind the coil onto the wick or did you pull it thru after the coil was built. I assume you wrapped onto the wick or it would look like Do-Do if you pulled the wick thru.

 

[Darkly spectr]

I feel your pain... damn vat and import fees. For importing you'll only pay 21% tax though, so depending
on shipping it's still way cheaper. And a european vendor won't be able to offer warranty without sending
it on to the manufacturer. So better buy directly, without a "middle man".

The cheapest is certainly DIY: Hana Mod clone case from fasttech (16€) DNA40 chip (60€) optional varitube 510 connector and tap (20€). Oh and some epoxy to hopefully fix that damn screen garble issue.

If you're planning on 3D printing and making mods anyway it might be a good project. I do too btw, still have to get my 3D printer working though.




If you want higher ohm the best way is probably to try titanium wire.

If you want really big surface area I think the best way to go is with vertical coils and outside wicking. Theoretically outside wicking "scales" better since you can add more to the outside.

I've got the big fogger but never used it. The build quality was quite bad.

Well to be honest. I AM going to the US next month so I might as well just get it in the US.