Official DNA 40 introduction

[350ZMO]

Thanks 350,

I am going to try again. I assume that is 30 Ga 12 wraps 3mm ID. But first I am going to order the Big Fogger V5 I was looking at last night. Apparently great minds...

I'll let you know how it goes.

PS - Did you wind the coil onto the wick or did you pull it thru after the coil was built. I assume you wrapped onto the wick or it would look like Do-Do if you pulled the wick thru.

You are welcome. It's 32 gauge on a screwdriver shaft that I think is around 5mm diameter just by looking at the coil size relative to the post screw heads. I'll have to measure it sometime. I did a single pull through of rayon.

View attachment 388033

What I don't like is how long the coil is, the spread needs to be closed up a little but even then still too long, as I've said before the wick length becomes an issue. Over time it will show how the middle gets more build up. But the BIG will support it if you want it. And even larger if you go vertical.

There is nothing wrong with wrapping directly on the wick most people use a needle in the middle of the wick, wrap the wire then pull the needle out but I have an idea about that I'll have to try sometime...

 

[HolmanGT]

You are welcome. It's 32 gauge on a screwdriver shaft that I think is around 5mm diameter just by looking at the coil size relative to the post screw heads. I'll have to measure it sometime. I did a single pull through of rayon.

View attachment 388033

What I don't like is how long the coil is, the spread needs to be closed up a little but even then still too long, as I've said before the wick length becomes an issue. Over time it will show how the middle gets more build up. But the BIG will support it if you want it. And even larger if you go vertical.

There is nothing wrong with wrapping directly on the wick most people use a needle in the middle of the wick, wrap the wire then pull the needle out but I have an idea about that I'll have to try sometime...

Thanks 350,

OK - I am going to the lab to try another build. i.e. "The Kitchen"

Last night I tried the wind on the wink method with a pin inserted and it came out pretty good. I was doing it on a V5 and the spring clips that it comes with don't work very well too loose so I use the holes in the post and screw @#?! it cut the wire right off - it cuts wire better than my precision wire cutters.

Now I am going to order the "Big" and maybe it will ship today. I don't think it is going to look very good on a Vapor Flash but if it works I should be able to live with it considering I have made a gazillion build on the darn V5 regular and have only succeeded in making my life miserable.

 

[KenD]

A little advice please. You who've bought the DNA40 chip, or a DNA40 mod; is the chip ready for primetime? Earlier this week I built my first mod, using a Fasttech clone chip as to not destroy an authentic chip if I'd mess up. I feel ready to tackle an authentic chip, but should I go for a DNA40 or go for a DNA30 while waiting for the second revision of its big brother? I can get a DNA30 for 36 euro ($45) or a DNA40 for 52.50 euro ($65) if I buy two or more.

 

[DejayRezme]

Well they are going to release a celcius version of the DNA40 which might be more polished, but considering the time your work building and soldering the chip is far more valuable than the difference in price.

 

[BNEAT]

Well they are going to release a celcius version of the DNA40 which might be more polished, but considering the time your work building and soldering the chip is far more valuable than the difference in price.

I wish my wife thought that way. According to her, my time is unlimited and free...unless of course I'm working on one of MY projects, then it's totally wasted.

 

[TheKiwi]

A little advice please. You who've bought the DNA40 chip, or a DNA40 mod; is the chip ready for primetime? Earlier this week I built my first mod, using a Fasttech clone chip as to not destroy an authentic chip if I'd mess up. I feel ready to tackle an authentic chip, but should I go for a DNA40 or go for a DNA30 while waiting for the second revision of its big brother? I can get a DNA30 for 36 euro ($45) or a DNA40 for 52.50 euro ($65) if I buy two or more.

I'm sure many many people would disagree, but for me at least, I think the evolv chips were released prematurely and are not ready for prime time at all. Nods. Great great idea, just not commercially ready


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[suspectK]

Everyone cutting wires, check out the sigelei taj ji.. the 22mm version has a screw in the positive post to adjust the hole size, and the negative posts are machined extremely well out of the base/deck, but they left a flat piece of ss at the bottom of the post hole, so when you tighten down your coil, it is against something relatively smooth.

 

[SeniorBoy]

I'm sure many many people would disagree, but for me at least, I think the evolv chips were released prematurely and are not ready for prime time at all. Nods. Great great idea, just not commercially ready


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I neither agree or disagree with YOU!

If you have the time, I would love to see your very detailed response on exactly why YOU think the Evolv 40 is not ready for prime time??

I have several reasons for asking you. I'm in the midst of an early draft review on my site. We can all learn from each other. And finally with a bit of tongue and check, you are a charter member of not only the early adopters club but what used to be a closely guarded secret and that's our xpv 40.



Danka in advance

 

[350ZMO]

Thanks 350,

OK - I am going to the lab to try another build. i.e. "The Kitchen"

Last night I tried the wind on the wink method with a pin inserted and it came out pretty good. I was doing it on a V5 and the spring clips that it comes with don't work very well too loose so I use the holes in the post and screw @#?! it cut the wire right off - it cuts wire better than my precision wire cutters.

Now I am going to order the "Big" and maybe it will ship today. I don't think it is going to look very good on a Vapor Flash but if it works I should be able to live with it considering I have made a gazillion build on the darn V5 regular and have only succeeded in making my life miserable.

LOL

Yeah it's very large but it does hold gobs of juice and has a nice large build deck. Here are a couple ideas, I never liked using pins as I always end up poking myself at one point or another so here is one idea.

I used a 2mm brass tube (K&S thin wall), rod will do also, and wrapped the rayon around it and then wire around that.
View attachment 388055
Then scrunch them together right on the mandrel see how the wick pokes out between the wire wraps increasing surface area of wire in contact with wet wick. Turned out .18 ohms total.

Here is another idea, pull the rayon through a tube mandrel and wrap the wire on the mandrel then slide coil off onto wick as you pull it out of the mandrel. I used a K&S thin wall 4mm tube, slightly flared one end:
View attachment 388056
The wick doesn't poke through between the wraps and is more difficult to screw down post screws and maintain coil shape and size but can be done:
View attachment 388058
Total resistance of .26 ohms.

All these vape pretty much the same. I prefer the latter as the coil diameter relative to length is much better. All with 32 gauge Ni200.

 

[350ZMO]

A little advice please. You who've bought the DNA40 chip, or a DNA40 mod; is the chip ready for primetime? Earlier this week I built my first mod, using a Fasttech clone chip as to not destroy an authentic chip if I'd mess up. I feel ready to tackle an authentic chip, but should I go for a DNA40 or go for a DNA30 while waiting for the second revision of its big brother? I can get a DNA30 for 36 euro ($45) or a DNA40 for 52.50 euro ($65) if I buy two or more.

I made my own with the current DNA40 and absolutely love it. My DIY SX350s are collecting dust.

View attachment 388059
View attachment 388060

Still waiting for the hana box kit from slow err..fastech so I can put my other DNA40 chip in it.

 

[BNEAT]

Really not looking forward to 32ga Nickel

 

[Nomoreash]

A little advice please. You who've bought the DNA40 chip, or a DNA40 mod; is the chip ready for primetime? Earlier this week I built my first mod, using a Fasttech clone chip as to not destroy an authentic chip if I'd mess up. I feel ready to tackle an authentic chip, but should I go for a DNA40 or go for a DNA30 while waiting for the second revision of its big brother? I can get a DNA30 for 36 euro ($45) or a DNA40 for 52.50 euro ($65) if I buy two or more.

I put one in a FT Hana Box. It had the screen lock issue which it's now being replaced for but otherwise performed as it should. It initially wouldn't stay in F mode which wound up being a ground issue causing just enough resistance to keep it switching modes. I replaced the screw, sanded the contact area and connector again, problem solved. If you go with the 40 now I've found it's not as tolerant for less than perfect connection points than the 30 so even if they look clean, clean em again, it could save you some frustration down the road. I ran the 30 in the same box with the same ground for months with no issues.

Aside from the screen issue I was thrilled with it, love the ramp up feature. I mainly worked with 28ga and bigger diameter contact coils and didn't find them difficult. I did try a few with 30ga and didn't care for it, 28 was much easier to me.

If you get one now from what I've read and experienced the screen issue has been the most common issue but those should be weeding out and if you've got one with it you'll know fairly quickly. If you choose to wait and want a chip now might want to consider a clone chip for temp service. I don't usually recommend them as they don't perform to authentic standards but they're cheap and they work.

 

[TheKiwi]

I neither agree or disagree with YOU!

If you have the time, I would love to see your very detailed response on exactly why YOU think the Evolv 40 is not ready for prime time??

I have several reasons for asking you. I'm in the midst of an early draft review on my site. We can all learn from each other. And finally with a bit of tongue and check, you are a charter member of not only the early adopters club but what used to be a closely guarded secret and that's our xpv 40.



Danka in advance

This is purely my experience haha.

1) I've been getting a multitude of weird screen glitches

They're worse some times. There are also instances when I click 5 times to lock, and it doesn't say lock. All that happens is the screen dims. That's all. Atty doesn't fire tho.

2) chip doesn't ask if i put on a new Atty 90% of the time, regardless of whether I press the fire button before putting on a completely room temp atty. The implications vary: in some cases, it detects the right new resistance and works fine. In other cases, the resistance is waaay off, resulting in dry hits or in some cases, hitting temperature protection prematurely. Not sure how the logic for this part is implemented, but I think it'll be useful the logic to ALWAYS ask if it's a new atty AFTER a "check atomizer" display

3) chip has difficulty differentiating between kanthal and Ni, even when the kanthal build is 1.5+ ohms

4) super random 999F readings.

I know I said these are my own issues, and tbh if I'm the only one reporting these issues, I would just chalk it up to bad luck and just keep quiet and go ahead with the RMA process. Unfortunately, they are issues which have been reported by a sizeable number of other people.

I think the issue is both a manufacturing and chip technology inadequacy though.


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[HolmanGT]

Really not looking forward to 32ga Nickel

32 Gauge Nickel is Vapor's He!! - "Hear me now and believe me later" (SNL)

 

[TheKiwi]

32 Gauge Nickel is Vapor's He!! - "Hear me now and believe me later" (SNL)

30ga is ALRDY a massive pain in the ...., I can't imagine using 32ga. Shudders.


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[HolmanGT]

LOL

Yeah it's very large but it does hold gobs of juice and has a nice large build deck. Here are a couple ideas, I never liked using pins as I always end up poking myself at one point or another so here is one idea.

I used a 2mm brass tube (K&S thin wall), rod will do also, and wrapped the rayon around it and then wire around that.
View attachment 388055
Then scrunch them together right on the mandrel see how the wick pokes out between the wire wraps increasing surface area of wire in contact with wet wick. Turned out .18 ohms total.

Here is another idea, pull the rayon through a tube mandrel and wrap the wire on the mandrel then slide coil off onto wick as you pull it out of the mandrel. I used a K&S thin wall 4mm tube, slightly flared one end:
View attachment 388056
The wick doesn't poke through between the wraps and is more difficult to screw down post screws and maintain coil shape and size but can be done:
View attachment 388058
Total resistance of .26 ohms.

All these vape pretty much the same. I prefer the latter as the coil diameter relative to length is much better. All with 32 gauge Ni200.

I have saved your post as a word document for reference.

By the way I tried 32 gauge and could make it work. Then I tried 30 gauge with the double pull method and Eureka - only 0.16 ohms but success is success.

I am now on my way to the store and see if I can get some tubing like you used it really looks like a simple way to do it. Also the pin and then crunching the coil so the wick pouches up sounds like a double pay off, a working coil that fits and extra surface contact.

Hi-ho, Hi-ho it's off to the hobby shop I go...

Don't come up with any better ways... my vaping budget is shot until 2015.

 

[RandyF]

I posted this in the another rDNA thread, but here is what I did with the 30g nickel.......

Got my rDNA 40 today. I had a Kayfun Lite+ already to go with a twisted Ni200 30g (2 wire) 12 wrap build. Wicked it with Koh Gen Do cotton, juiced it, popped it on the VS (read .16 ohm) and at 20w with the temp set at 410, it hits like a dream. The coil isn't perfect, but it is the best I could do without heating and pinching it.

Edit: also, this was wrapped around a 3mm precision screwdriver.

 

[rusirius]

This is purely my experience haha.

1) I've been getting a multitude of weird screen glitches

They're worse some times. There are also instances when I click 5 times to lock, and it doesn't say lock. All that happens is the screen dims. That's all. Atty doesn't fire tho.

2) chip doesn't ask if i put on a new Atty 90% of the time, regardless of whether I press the fire button before putting on a completely room temp atty. The implications vary: in some cases, it detects the right new resistance and works fine. In other cases, the resistance is waaay off, resulting in dry hits or in some cases, hitting temperature protection prematurely. Not sure how the logic for this part is implemented, but I think it'll be useful the logic to ALWAYS ask if it's a new atty AFTER a "check atomizer" display

3) chip has difficulty differentiating between kanthal and Ni, even when the kanthal build is 1.5+ ohms

4) super random 999F readings.

I know I said these are my own issues, and tbh if I'm the only one reporting these issues, I would just chalk it up to bad luck and just keep quiet and go ahead with the RMA process. Unfortunately, they are issues which have been reported by a sizeable number of other people.

I think the issue is both a manufacturing and chip technology inadequacy though.


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That's definitely a board with the glitch problem. Trust me, I had more than my share of experience with it. It will likely get worse over time. Contact them and get it replaced.

 

[TheKiwi]

That's definitely a board with the glitch problem. Trust me, I had more than my share of experience with it. It will likely get worse over time. Contact them and get it replaced.

I have tried. Fella from VF offered to swap a new unit and then suddenly cut off all comms with me.


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[rusirius]

A little advice please. You who've bought the DNA40 chip, or a DNA40 mod; is the chip ready for primetime? Earlier this week I built my first mod, using a Fasttech clone chip as to not destroy an authentic chip if I'd mess up. I feel ready to tackle an authentic chip, but should I go for a DNA40 or go for a DNA30 while waiting for the second revision of its big brother? I can get a DNA30 for 36 euro ($45) or a DNA40 for 52.50 euro ($65) if I buy two or more.

Once I got a board without the glitch problem I've had absolutely zero problems. I've seen reports of it switching back and forth between tp and standard mode and some other weirdness, but I've had zero problems with the new board. My old one did that even when the screen wasn't glitching, etc. So it does seem like there are plenty of bad ones out there, but as long as you get newer stock I don't think you'll be disappointed!