Yikes! I'd expect more from someone selling a 300 dollar device! Hope they get back in contact with you soon!
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Damn. Does the screen stop updating after this happens?
Definitely should get it replaced if it's the screen issue.
Half half, it depends on what glitch and even then it's unpredictable.
For example sometimes the display looks ok, but is complete frozen. The temperature and watts don't change, but it's firing in temp mode.
Then sometimes the screen has weird garbled display, sometimes whatever display is remaining actualy still changes (stuff like the watts and resistance), other time it's straight up frozen but still fires.
Sometimes before firing it's garbled up. When pressing on the firing button, the display goes back to normal.
Other times when it's garbled before firing, it changes into some other weird display when firing.
Haha
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Yeah I'm actually trying to get a response from VF via email AND facebook now
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AH yes yes. Thing is my unit also has a huge physical defect (the charging port hole was way over milled and exposes a large part of the USB card.) so I'm trying to contact them and see what's the best route to go since I have both a chip and mod issue
In any case I got a response and will be exchanging for a new unit on Monday
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That's half the story bc mine has a double layer of silicon and still it's messing up
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Put together a Fasttech Hana enclosure dna40 this morning and have been enjoying it so far. Have built 2 drippers, a kayfun, and even a kanger head with nickel with no problem at all.
However, my chip will not recognize a new atty whether it be kanthal or nickel unless I remove the battery and re-install it. Good thing I installed magnets on the battery door or this would be a major pain in the ....
BTW, board was purchased from Vape Dojo OCT 15th
However, my chip will not recognize a new atty whether it be kanthal or nickel unless I remove the battery and re-install it. Good thing I installed magnets on the battery door or this would be a major pain in the ....
BTW, board was purchased from Vape Dojo OCT 15th
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Makes me wonder if the masking was missed farther under the screen ribbon. Well I'm sure Evolv is working on it.
Exactly. In the beginning they thought that was the cause. And no doubt it does cause the issues in some, but then evolv started insulating it from the factor. Mine was one already supposedly fixed by them. Unfortunately it still happened. With mine and with many others. Somewhere I remember a post where someone had communicated with evolv and found that they were still trying to figure out what was causing it in some boards since obviously the isolation of vias wasn't the only issue. It's not happening in all though. The second board I got has had zero issues. It's been flawless in every respect.
It's possible. I have some surface mount tools and had thought about removing the ribbon to examine under it in mine, but since it's being rma'd I don't want to take the chance of them noticing it and saying I had caused damage.
AH yes yes. Thing is my unit also has a huge physical defect (the charging port hole was way over milled and exposes a large part of the USB card.) so I'm trying to contact them and see what's the best route to go since I have both a chip and mod issue
In any case I got a response and will be exchanging for a new unit on Monday
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So is the port milled out too much or have a bevel to it? Mine appears to be that way but when I look at it from different angles I see that it is part of the CNC process to round the opening. Just a hunch.
I'm back at Ni200 wire - 200ml of GVC arrived today and it was screaming to be vaped with temp control. Interesting to taste the flavor profile change based on how much I allow the coils to heat up. Screen has yet to glitch but have had problems with it detecting Ni200 or Kanthal several times and is hit or miss if it asked if it is a new coil when switching attys.
It's def milled way too much
I can actually see most of the USB card
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Thanks for this rusirius FWIW
Ni200 has 0.15 %max carbon
Ni201 has 0.02% max carbon
Fabrication with Nickel 200/201
All hot working and cold working practices can be utilized when shaping Nickel 200/201. Hot working temperatures should be between 1200° F and 2250° F with heavy forming to be performed at temperatures above 1600° F. Annealing should be performed at a temperature between 1300° F and 1600° F. Care should be taken when choosing the anneal temperature and time at temperature for this can greatly influence the mechanical properties and structure of the material.
I still see no reason not to hot burn Ni coils.
It's def milled way too much
I can actually see most of the USB card
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Gee Kiwi, That had to have been a prototype. No one in their right mind would intentionally sell something like that.
I am with you Kiwi, The board/chip and flask are just not ready for prime time certainly not at $300 dollars.
My USB port looks like your "Normal" almost save the fact that it is jammed up against the top edge and it you touch it, it wobbles. If I had any energy left after trying to build Ni200 coil that will fit a normal atty I would raise some He!! with VaporArt and Evolv. I will say that I am very disappointed in the build quality and the occasional strange glitches (not display in my case - "Knock on Wood). i.e. sometime it detects a new atty sometimes not, resistance readings don't always make sense and "Oh" have you notice how everyone build a slightly different coils but almost everyone comes up with ~0.15 ohms (little fishy in my book).
George AKA "Unhappy Camper"
PS - To all, if you think yours is just fine and works great I am very happy for you but please don't blast me for my opinion. I am not trolling for arguments nor will I enter into any about my "Not ready for Prime Time comment". Thanks folks.
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