Yeah, found the pic, posted and then went to the site and saw it was you so I edited the post to give you credit
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Yeah, found the pic, posted and then went to the site and saw it was you so I edited the post to give you credit
I think I've decided to wait (ouch!) until someplace that was out of them gets them back in stock. That way I can be (more or less) assured it's new stock of revised boards. (Plus I'll ask them before placing the order.) I am leaning toward getting it from Protovapor, if they get new stock about the same time as others -- based on the feedback on this board, they seem to be doing some real quality control.
Actually, I am sorely tempted to get an XPV 40 too. Problem is, I'm afraid I'd find it pretty clunky to hold (5'6", medium small hands). Once a setup gets above a certain size, I seem to much prefer both the look and feel of a box mod style, plus I think they fit in my pocket better -- ergo why I was initially leaning toward the rDNA. (Feedback on others' experience with the kinesthetics of the XPV welcomed. Please include glove size.)
Maybe I should print out an XPV-sized box, tape some weight in it, and see how it feels and fits in my pocket.
Oh wait, I don't have a 3d printer yet. Rats. Too many projects, too little time.
XPV works great, fits great in the hand and with the stand sits on a table ok but it feels lousy in my pocket, the clip works sort of, but I find it awkward.
@KGie - Whatever floats your boat is fine by me. ProtoVapor the builder of the XPV 40 used to fly under the radar /lol I agree with 350 and mine would never be an out and about device. I would argue that real world QC, a long history with Evolv, and transparency carry more weight IMHO with this Mod Maker on steroids than any attempt at timing your purchase. If you have a local B&M in your area hold and use a ProVari 2.5. About the same size, heavier and round but might help you decide.
See my cloud chaser vid at: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...3-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds-7.html#post14554688
Good luck whatever you decide.
See my cloud chaser vid at: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...3-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds-7.html#post14554688
Good luck whatever you decide.
Those are exactly the characteristics of Protovapor that put the XPV on my radar. From everything I have seen and read, I really like the way they do business.
Hopefully someone can help me. I have a Vaporshark rDNA 40 and no matter what Ni200 build I do on my authentic Russian 91, I can't get it to regulate temperature right and it always comes out to 0.15ohm no matter how many wraps I do. I have temperature mode working flawlessly on my Quasar and my Patriot. I've tried using 28g and 30g Ni200 from Temco. Any help would be appreciated.
How far does up your positive pin stick out the 510? I had the same problem with my Eleaf and i unscrewed the 510 postive pin out to make a harder connection with the mod... Only other thing I can think of is the Russian has an internal resistance natively as 0.15 due to the threading or what not
It sticks out some. I tried taking it out farther and putting it in deeper and no luck.
Do u have a multimeter? Measure the attys internal resistance without wire
I just watched a review on YT for the Hana Modz DNA 40 (by Regulated Reviews) and he said his has the 510 spring connector, is that true?
He didn't demonstrate it but I thought it still came with the standard 510 that didn't self adjust or did they update this recently?
Thanks
He didn't demonstrate it but I thought it still came with the standard 510 that didn't self adjust or did they update this recently?
Thanks
I don't have a multimeter right now. I think something happened to it. Now after building a kanthal coil it's resistance is bouncing from 2.3-1.3 while firing on the DNA40. Starting high and rapidly dropping to 1.3. My DNA30 won't even fire it. Everything looks good on it too.
A link to the review would be helpful. I've never heard of "Regulated Reviews". If he/she says their 510 pin is spring loaded he is either mistaken or Hana made a major improvement and decided to keep it a secret. Highly doubtful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AednG4lKrL0&sns=em
I figured it probably wasn't true but wasn't sure.
Welp. Just picked up my rdna40 and it works a mile better than my flask. Now I'm convinced my flask's chip is messed up.
With the rDNA, it asks if I have a new coil ever single time I put on a new atty!!! Yay.
Recognizes all my kanthal builds too!!!
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
With the rDNA, it asks if I have a new coil ever single time I put on a new atty!!! Yay.
Recognizes all my kanthal builds too!!!
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
I'm SUPER glad I did too! I had gotten so frustrated with the dna40 that I was close to giving up. But the vaporshark has given me a glimpse of what I should have been experiencing. Cannot be happier now.
If anyone is interested in some pictures, I've posted a bunch in the RDNA thread
I love the device. Burping out loud using Tapatalk
i finally got dual coils to work on my orchid used 32 gauge to. wasnt easy and took two tries but its reading .26 and i have temp set really low like360 and it only after chain vaping gives me tp warning if thats what its called tons of vapor and would be even more if i turn up the watts but i like a cool vape and thats what im getting
Fantastic! WE knew it.
YOU can finally RMA and please please be persistent as in a LARGE PITAMaybe.
I've been following this thread since the beginning, and I think I'm starting to notice a couple of patterns.
First off, it seems like some people are leading a charmed life, at least when it comes to building nickel coils and very successfully and happily using them on their DNA 40 devices in Temperature Protection mode.
And it seems like another group are doomed to a life of frustration and disappointment in Temperature Protection Purgatory.
From this distance, it looks possible that to quote the first word of this post maybe the folks leading charmed lives are using XPV's, and only the ones (or maybe more accurately some of the ones) using Flasks and more recently rDNA's are running into issues. Could this be, and if so, how?
Here's one possible mechanism. Not saying this is what's going on, just offering it up as a possibility; it should be easy enough to check.
In working with digital circuits, particularly newly designed ones, occasionally I would come up against one that exhibited an odd variety of apparently unrelated glitches. The circuit looked great and worked swimmingly on paper, but in real life misbehaved in an odd variety of ways that made it totally exasperating to debug. The glitches were often intermittent, which made debugging them that much more difficult and frustrating.
At first I would try to debug each glitch independently. This usually got me absolutely nowhere, other than to the end of the day (and too often the night). I finally decided to check everything, including the basics that didn't seem like they could possibly be causing the problems, such as the integrity of the power supply and its connections, which included checking the grounding.
The first couple of times that I found a bad ground and fixed it, much to my surprise I discovered that hadn't fixed just one of the glitches, it had fixed them all! I quickly learned when a circuit was exhibiting an odd assortment of apparently unrelated and quite baffling glitches not to even waste my time checking it any out any further until Id thoroughly vetted the grounding.
You most likely know where I'm headed with this by now: I'm wondering if there's a problem with the grounding on the Flask (and possibly rDNA's), but not the XPV's (nor likely the beta units, but as I wasn't part of the beta program I know pretty much nothing about the design of the mods that were used for it).
There are both obvious and unexpected ways grounding can go awry, some of which are pretty subtle. In the obvious camp are such things as bad solder joints, missing ground wires or PCB traces, etc. I expect these are unlikely in the current DNA 40 products that are already on the market.
I would think much more likely to be causing a problem in this ah, case would be if the circuit is wired using the case as a ground connection, rather than having all ground points hard-wired together. This might be a good way to set up what are known as ground loops, a situation in which all points in the circuit that are supposed to be at the same potential ground, exactly zero (I assume) volts in this case aren't. Some ground points will end up at slightly different voltages than others, or have no connection at all (floating), creating what is known as a ground loop (and the title of this thread).
Bad grounds and ground loops can almost certainly will wreck havoc on logic circuits especially, cause hum in audio equipment and a diverse host of other ailments, often apparently unrelated, and often intermittent.
Sound familiar? Having a high integrity ground system is almost surely even more critical when you start measuring resistance down to two decimal places, and it should be easy enough to determine if I'm on the right track here: we just need to answer the question of how each mod physically handles ground connections, and the integrity of the entire grounding system. I don't have any of the mods under discussion here (yet) and haven't even seen them in person, let alone looked into their innards, but if it turns out that the XPV is hard-wired, whereas the Flask uses the case as common ground, we may know where to look for the problem. And/or there might be other reasons for inadequate grounding. (Not quite enough feedback on the rDNA's yet, but early indications are that it's in the XPV camp i.e., performing reliably.)
So, anyone with any of these mods able to answer the questions about how the grounding is done, and its quality? Am I onto something here, or is this another blind alley?
I've been following this thread since the beginning, and I think I'm starting to notice a couple of patterns.
First off, it seems like some people are leading a charmed life, at least when it comes to building nickel coils and very successfully and happily using them on their DNA 40 devices in Temperature Protection mode.
And it seems like another group are doomed to a life of frustration and disappointment in Temperature Protection Purgatory.
From this distance, it looks possible that to quote the first word of this post maybe the folks leading charmed lives are using XPV's, and only the ones (or maybe more accurately some of the ones) using Flasks and more recently rDNA's are running into issues. Could this be, and if so, how?
Here's one possible mechanism. Not saying this is what's going on, just offering it up as a possibility; it should be easy enough to check.
In working with digital circuits, particularly newly designed ones, occasionally I would come up against one that exhibited an odd variety of apparently unrelated glitches. The circuit looked great and worked swimmingly on paper, but in real life misbehaved in an odd variety of ways that made it totally exasperating to debug. The glitches were often intermittent, which made debugging them that much more difficult and frustrating.
At first I would try to debug each glitch independently. This usually got me absolutely nowhere, other than to the end of the day (and too often the night). I finally decided to check everything, including the basics that didn't seem like they could possibly be causing the problems, such as the integrity of the power supply and its connections, which included checking the grounding.
The first couple of times that I found a bad ground and fixed it, much to my surprise I discovered that hadn't fixed just one of the glitches, it had fixed them all! I quickly learned when a circuit was exhibiting an odd assortment of apparently unrelated and quite baffling glitches not to even waste my time checking it any out any further until Id thoroughly vetted the grounding.
You most likely know where I'm headed with this by now: I'm wondering if there's a problem with the grounding on the Flask (and possibly rDNA's), but not the XPV's (nor likely the beta units, but as I wasn't part of the beta program I know pretty much nothing about the design of the mods that were used for it).
There are both obvious and unexpected ways grounding can go awry, some of which are pretty subtle. In the obvious camp are such things as bad solder joints, missing ground wires or PCB traces, etc. I expect these are unlikely in the current DNA 40 products that are already on the market.
I would think much more likely to be causing a problem in this ah, case would be if the circuit is wired using the case as a ground connection, rather than having all ground points hard-wired together. This might be a good way to set up what are known as ground loops, a situation in which all points in the circuit that are supposed to be at the same potential ground, exactly zero (I assume) volts in this case aren't. Some ground points will end up at slightly different voltages than others, or have no connection at all (floating), creating what is known as a ground loop (and the title of this thread).
Bad grounds and ground loops can almost certainly will wreck havoc on logic circuits especially, cause hum in audio equipment and a diverse host of other ailments, often apparently unrelated, and often intermittent.
Sound familiar? Having a high integrity ground system is almost surely even more critical when you start measuring resistance down to two decimal places, and it should be easy enough to determine if I'm on the right track here: we just need to answer the question of how each mod physically handles ground connections, and the integrity of the entire grounding system. I don't have any of the mods under discussion here (yet) and haven't even seen them in person, let alone looked into their innards, but if it turns out that the XPV is hard-wired, whereas the Flask uses the case as common ground, we may know where to look for the problem. And/or there might be other reasons for inadequate grounding. (Not quite enough feedback on the rDNA's yet, but early indications are that it's in the XPV camp i.e., performing reliably.)
So, anyone with any of these mods able to answer the questions about how the grounding is done, and its quality? Am I onto something here, or is this another blind alley?
Not that it couldn't cause the issues in some, but many of the issues I've seen, like not detecting coils right, resetting base resistance all the time, etc... are all issues I experienced with my first board that also experienced the screen glitch. I'm an ee and build electronics all the time. Definitely wasn't a grounding issue in my case unless it was integral to the board itself. I suspect even if it doesn't manifest in an extreme way, I think it's all the same defect. My second board has been flawless since I got it.
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