Official DNA 40 introduction

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JamieZ4M

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30awg.. :D That's why I doubled the legs to help the screws get a bite without clipping.
Yes it's a bit of a pita! I might have to do that with the 29 gauge!
I pretty much turned into an instant fan boy the moment I held the rdna40. The size is absolutely perfect. I used to think big box mods (ESP dual 18650) were the way to go, and had no issues with the size. Then I got a few Reos and that was perfect.

And then I got the rdna40. Now that I really like. The magnet battery lid is an added bonus.

My single only gripe is the brass 510. But I can live with that


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Sounds like a nice device, always liked the look of them and they all a squeezed into the smallest possible enclosure. I thought the hana clone enclosure was tight to work with!
 

KTMRider

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Lol tbh if I were looking for a dna40 device, I would just wait for the bad chips to get outta the circulation first.

That said, I absolutely love my rdna40. Sick little device.


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I was thinking about waiting until all the bad boards were out of circulation. Pick up a VS DNA 30 and wait a couple of months. Then shinyitis hits and sometimes, you gotta say ....... it and just go for it. :D

Except I'm still waiting for mine :(
 

KTMRider

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My single only gripe is the brass 510. But I can live with that

I noticed that. I'm gonna try to install a VT 510 if I have problems. If I ever get mine :lol:


Yes it's a bit of a pita! I might have to do that with the 29 gauge!


Sounds like a nice device, always liked the look of them and they all a squeezed into the smallest possible enclosure. I thought the hana clone enclosure was tight to work with!

Hana boxes are much easier to work in and made for modder, IMO. The VS, not so much. I do like how compact it is and still uses a 18650.
 

JamieZ4M

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I noticed that. I'm gonna try to install a VT 510 if I have problems. If I ever get mine :lol:




Hana boxes are much easier to work in and made for modder, IMO. The VS, not so much. I do like how compact it is and still uses a 18650.


Yeah I think you're right. But yeah I'd like to make a mod that is as compact as the rda. I most definitely will be making another, got the bug after this one XD
 

350ZMO

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Well I've been waiting for a hana box kit from slow...errr...fastech for over a month and got fed up today so decided to go ahead and build a tube mod. I had done this with an SX350, ripped out the SX300 and put in a 350. Introducing the 26650 Seven DNA 40 by "Pioneer4Me"!

View attachment 389589
Yeah yeah I'm working on the window...works great without it though! :D

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Up Fire Down just like you'ld expect it.

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Had to notch from the 300 window to its fire button hole to make a slot long enough for the DNA40 window.

View attachment 389594
Drilled three holes on flat backside for the buttons.

View attachment 389595
Made a board sleeve from some 1/2" PVC.

All with simple hand tools only not on my front porch, been too cold lately!
 

peraspera

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Yeah I think you're right. But yeah I'd like to make a mod that is as compact as the rda. I most definitely will be making another, got the bug after this one XD

Mastblast09 from Plumes of Hazard replaced the iStick board with a DNA 40 and the battery with an 18650. Unfortunately, he said it was a major PITA to do and that he won't be doing another or offering any modding instructions.

 

350ZMO

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That's brilliant haha excellent work!

Thank you, got the V5 BIG Fogger with duals at .10 on her now, vaping away at 24W. Not that the Kaiser is bad but the V5 BIG is badder LOL :D

Oh yeah and this plus my box mod and XPV makes the third DNA40 bought from within a couple days of release that doesn't have the screen issue.

I see protovapor has boards back in stock, I'll have to get one for when the hana box kit eventually shows up.
 

TheKiwi

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Bah I knew it. I KNew it. Right after raving about my success with contact coils, I've had 11 builds with stupid hot spots that's just burning up my wick. Back to spaced coils for now.

Having more success with rayon and Ni200 builds!

28ga, with the double insertion method

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Heespharm

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Bah I knew it. I KNew it. Right after raving about my success with contact coils, I've had 11 builds with stupid hot spots that's just burning up my wick. Back to spaced coils for now.

Having more success with rayon and Ni200 builds!

28ga, with the double insertion method

0307a2ad99273263dd4ac6e0a98491a0.jpg


2f696e9fb13c09226c1749b140c3b88a.jpg


1ebacc2d1fb53d25326a162aecbd5608.jpg


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Chinese finger cuff method! Haha nice!... Yeah contact coils are burning my wicks too... Just slightly... But I've been running two veritas for a week, same juice and the contact coils are giving me almost as good of flavor but less burning
 

TheKiwi

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Chinese finger cuff method! Haha nice!... Yeah contact coils are burning my wicks too... Just slightly... But I've been running two veritas for a week, same juice and the contact coils are giving me almost as good of flavor but less burning

I just can't figure it out and it's blowing my mind. Shakes head.


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dougward1960

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ive been running dual 15 wrap 28guage ni200 in my orchid now for two days without burning or random fluctuations in watts. i think i finally got it working the best it can before i was rebuilding at least once a day. im going to sit back and enjoy it as long as it last. going through post holes and then up and around the post screws seems to have solved all my issues i was having i refilled like six times so far and after the first two refills id snug up the post screws just encase the expanding and contracting of the nickle loosened them up working flawless now
 

Woofer

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VS rDNA 40 is rockin` the Russian! with my first Ni coil. :D

I wiped the wire down with Vodka and wound 10 wraps of 28 ga around a 6-32 machine screw. Removed the coil from the screw, put it on a drill bit and compressed it tight a few times with my fingers. The result was a very even and reasonably tightly spaced coil. A 6-32 is 3.4 mm but the wire engages the threads so the ID is less then 3.4 mm. In my haste to make some vaper I didn`t measure the actual ID of the coil but it is 3mm give or take. It is 0.22 ohms. Easy peasy, perhaps beginners luck but at this point I`m not sure about the drama and fuss generated by the Ni coils. Mounting on the R91% was about the same as Kanthal, I wouldn`t complain if the screw heads were larger, I`m going to look for that or else stainless washers.

Wicked it with Cellucotton brand rayon. This is my second rayon coil and I used to much, cut the tails to long.:facepalm: I knew it when I stuffed em down the chimney but was meeting the wife for supper and was out of time. It`s working excellent as long as I block the air intake and suck to prime the wick every so often. :laugh: I will fix this in the morning. All in all I`m happy, 400 F lots of tasty vapor until the wicking falls behind and no burnt hits even then, temp protection kicks in vapor production falls off but what I get is still OK.

Just going to enjoy vaping this as is tonight and am looking forward to tommorow! :vapor:
 

Mark Denison

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I was having the same cr@p vape in my kayfun with touching coils so I decided I would take a break from nickel and build my sat22 with kanthal and use it on my rdna 40. Made my wick, did a 3/4 wrap of 28 and when I went to test fire the coil, I saw temp mode was on. I thought oh great, my dna40 is messing up now. Nope I used nickel accidentally lol. So I decided f it, I'll just try it. Came out to .07 ohm but it is vaping beautifully! I ran the tank dry and vapor just dropped to nothing, but no bad taste or burny mesh hit thank god. Success! ☺
 
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Pete54

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After reading this thread for the last month, I was expecting the worst when my rDNA arrived yesterday. Having practiced making a dozen or so coils, I decided to stick with the contact coils I love. Using an Origen v2 Genny, I wrapped about 12 coils of 28g around a 1/8" bit, as tightly as I could. I carefully mounted it, making sure both leads where very securely attached. Then I turned off temp and set it to 4 watts and fired it while gently squeezing the coils with ceramic tweezers. Came out looking perfect. Threaded some KGD though the coil and re-checked the leads to make sure they where still secure. Set the temp to 410 and the wattage to 19 (as that is where I usually fire this set up on an ordinary VW device. Moment of truth!
Wonderful, flavorful, perfect vape. Ohms are steady at 0.18 - 0.20 after heavy use. Rarely, if ever, do I get a Temperature Protected notice. Couldn't be any happier.
I write this because we've all speculated that many more people have no problems at all than do, but they are probably not posting. Is it just a lucky build? Probably, I guess. Don't really know yet. The three things I've learned are;
- Make sure your leads are very secure. I believe that this may depend on which atty you are using. Some may just not be designed to provide a secure enough connection without cutting the Ni200.
- Firing at low, non-temp protected wattage does allow you to create solid functioning contact coils. At 4-5 watts I never even saw the coil get red.
- I believe that you should set the wattage at whatever setting you would normally vape your selected atty on a regular VW device. There was a reason you originally used that wattage setting so why increase it? The quick ramp up feature will take care of getting the coil up to temp better than bombarding it with high watts.

That's all I have so far. One build ....... perfect results. Just so people on the fence realize that this thing does work beautifully for some people.
 

mrcrunch08

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I just want to say thank you to everyone here sharing their experiences with the DNA 40. I purchased one a couple weeks ago that arrived DOA and received the replacement two days ago. I installed it in my zna and have been experiencing most of the issues I have seen here. I wish I would have seen this sooner. I spent countless hours playing with coils and have ripped the zna apart 3 times now thinking I must have a poor connection with no luck. I believe I got the coil building issues sorted but I'm finding it is resetting the resistance of the coil based on the temperature it rests at. My most recent build is 0.2ohm and was working perfectly and continues to do so if I let it sit on my coffee table but if I go into a room that is colder and let it rest there the resistance drops to 0.17ohm and since its currently freezing outside it drops even lower and dumps 40watts without reaching 410f and basically fried everything or in a warmer place the resistance rises and flashes temp protection and gives no power. Has anyone else had similar issues using the DNA 40 as an out and about setup?
 

JamieZ4M

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Mastblast09 from Plumes of Hazard replaced the iStick board with a DNA 40 and the battery with an 18650. Unfortunately, he said it was a major PITA to do and that he won't be doing another or offering any modding instructions.


I have an istick on the way but I think I'll pass on that for now haha. I'd try it if I could buy an empty istick case!

Thank you, got the V5 BIG Fogger with duals at .10 on her now, vaping away at 24W. Not that the Kaiser is bad but the V5 BIG is badder LOL :D

Oh yeah and this plus my box mod and XPV makes the third DNA40 bought from within a couple days of release that doesn't have the screen issue.

I see protovapor has boards back in stock, I'll have to get one for when the hana box kit eventually shows up.
Definitely a good idea. It's soo rewarding building it yourself!!
 

KGie

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Has anyone tried welding heavier gauge legs to their 30-32 gauge Nickel coils to ease the pain of mounting? You know, NR-R-NR style. It seems like 22ga legs would make things a lot more sturdy, and easier to capture.

(I don't have a 40 yet, so it wouldn't do me any good to try this)

I'd be curious to hear of anyone's experience that tries this, because it would also take care of a potential issue I occasionally wonder about, which is how much hotter the leads may be getting than the wick covered coil. The 40 is looking at the average temp, so the leads could get substantially hotter than the much larger-mass coil without affecting the average temp very much at all.
 
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Woofer

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- Make sure your leads are very secure. I believe that this may depend on which atty you are using. Some may just not be designed to provide a secure enough connection without cutting the Ni200.
- Firing at low, non-temp protected wattage does allow you to create solid functioning contact coils. At 4-5 watts I never even saw the coil get red.
- I believe that you should set the wattage at whatever setting you would normally vape your selected atty on a regular VW device. There was a reason you originally used that wattage setting so why increase it? The quick ramp up feature will take care of getting the coil up to temp better than bombarding it with high watts.

That's all I have so far. One build ....... perfect results. Just so people on the fence realize that this thing does work beautifully for some people.

Sound advice! I especially agree with this
I believe that you should set the wattage at whatever setting you would normally vape your selected atty on a regular VW device. There was a reason you originally used that wattage setting so why increase it? The quick ramp up feature will take care of getting the coil up to temp better than bombarding it with high watts.

I think the DNA board is getting blamed for problems that are not DNA problems. It has to have solid connections, it depends on the ohm rise being dependable, stable and predictable. If the atty or build is iffy and the ohms are jumping around it can not work correctly period. ATM I don`t think it is going to that hard to build for but things that went unnoticed in the past will not go unnoticed by the DNA 40 :2c:
 
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