I thought about that when Kiwi was having problems with hot legs on his first attempts at compressed coils.
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I thought about that when Kiwi was having problems with hot legs on his first attempts at compressed coils.
Oh my God. I'm so going to do this... Lol
Now seriously... I would order the I stick and a dna today if it were possible to make that mod with an easy swappable 18650 however, by the description you put, I doubt it will be servicable the easy way.
I guess I'll stick to my plan in modding a mini hana clone.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Setting up the Istick to swap batteries isn't that hard. The 2 bottom screws just holds the cap. The battery has foam is glued to it and the board. You can easily take the foam glue off and put contacts for the battery in there. The screws take T5 (actually, T4.5) screw driver.
I'm curious how he got the buttons lined up. I wouldn't use the stock Istick button mechanisms as they're really cheap, not very reliable and break easily. I think I'd rather use a DNA 30 as a transplant victim
. I have an Istick and it's size is great. The curved back makes it very comfortable to hold even if it's a bit small for my hands. The 510 connector sucks but I have a dead Istick coming so I can try to see if I can retrofit a SS VT 510 with a spring loaded center pin. I'll probably swap out the battery too.
I had that problem, but only with my first board that had the screen glitch issue that wasn't resolved by insulating the vias. The more I've seen reports of this happening the more I suspect some boards are experiencing the same sort of issue but without the severity to cause the screen glitch. If it's some sort of short it make sense that maybe the board resets after idling down and rereads the base resistance. Since I've had the second board though this hasn't been an issue.
My second DNA40 getting some testing before attempting install. First board has some screen issues so I'm trying to ensure better luck this next time.
So far so good, knock on wood... Haven't seen a screen glitch or experianced an odd behavior yet. It's powered through at least 6ml of juice so it's without question working better than the 1st board.
So far so good, knock on wood... Haven't seen a screen glitch or experianced an odd behavior yet. It's powered through at least 6ml of juice so it's without question working better than the 1st board.
Ha! Funny you should mention that. I though about getting (or making) a small vape-specific welder for projects like that, but I sort of pushed it to the back burner, where it promptly fell off the stove and was forgotten.
Now I am thinking it's time for me to revisit that idea.
Coolest mod ever. Lol. I'd leave it just like it is. It would make a great conversation piece. Pulling it out in public might make people worry a little though, and the tsa might make you disappear for a very long time. LmaoMy second DNA40 getting some testing before attempting install. First board has some screen issues so I'm trying to ensure better luck this next time.
So far so good, knock on wood... Haven't seen a screen glitch or experianced an odd behavior yet. It's powered through at least 6ml of juice so it's without question working better than the 1st board.
I think the DNA board is getting blamed for problems that are not DNA problems. It has to have solid connections, it depends on the ohm rise being dependable, stable and predictable. If the atty or build is iffy and the ohms are jumping around it can not work correctly period. ATM I don`t think it is going to that hard to build for but things that went unnoticed in the past will not go unnoticed by the DNA 40
Thank you and ditto! To a certain extent segments of the "Vaping Culture" love to experiment and attempt to make devices accomplish tasks that they were never designed to do. Along with deep deep probes /lol into IP secrets that no reasonable inventor would ever release. / no offence intended
Bottom line for me is the 40 and my builds work like a champ on all my drippers. I'm not doing anything special and frankly I could care less. That's beyond my pay grade.
The KF and R91 of course is a slightly different set of challenges for me, however I think I've nailed it after numerous false starts which of course come with the territory and part of the joy of "early adoption" /lol Knowing when to STOP vs continuing to "tweak/experiment" is part of my DNA. Of course, these are just my views and not intended to convince anyone on planet earth or mars that "my way" is the only way.
HTH
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My second DNA40 getting some testing before attempting install. First board has some screen issues so I'm trying to ensure better luck this next time.
So far so good, knock on wood... Haven't seen a screen glitch or experianced an odd behavior yet. It's powered through at least 6ml of juice so it's without question working better than the 1st board.
This is so ghetto style, I love it
Oh and those multiplex (mpx) connectors are awesome. I use them in all my sailplanes... from thermal walkers to high speed missiles
Regards
Tony
Thanks for the feedback. Maybe I will shoot evolve a message if all else fails. I am just hoping it is something to do with getting a functional build on my kayfuns and not another faulty board. That is what I have been devoted to since that is the first I tried and the atty I will be using most. I've been playing around with drippers for the past hour and don't seem to have any of those problems but haven't had a chance to take them anywhere with different temperatures then what I built them in and that seems to be the factor with my kayfun build going haywire.
i too have been having this same issue very frustrating after 2 days of it working properly if it sets and cools off it blasts me with 39-40 and burns my cotton. it is cold here as well so dont leave it set out in your car and pick it up and hit it cold it will give you the WORST dry hit ever!!!
That's pretty much enough to confirm my suspicions that it may be overly sensitive and not ideal for an out and about device for someone like me who works outside a lot and goes from hot to cold places fairly often. It's unfortunate since it normally is in my tool belt at work and in my car when out and about. I guess kanthal may still be the best choice for those situations. I think the ni200 is leaving a funny after taste anyway.
I'd be surprised if the temperature change of cold weather would have any effect really. It's more likely to be a secondary effect from connectivity issue. But it certainly is more finnicky than kanthal.
And AFAIK nickel doesn't leave any taste at all but there can be a soapy lubricant on the wire. Best to wipe the wire with ethanol / isopropenol. I didn't have any taste at all.
It doesn't seem like it should work that way.
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well i didnt change anything had been working great for 2 days and then today it just started giving me burnt hits everytime it sat for long enough to cool down got to the point where id fire it and watch the watts jump up to 39-40 watts then go down to my setting of 15 watts. im not saying that someting is wrong with the board but something is wrong because like you said it shouldnt work that way. i kind of hate to tear it apart because it was great for 2 days but i know i have to see if something has happened to my coils i had very secure connections maybe one broke from all the expanding and contracting. two times when i had to refill i rechecked my post screws and snugged them up a tiny bit more i'll know later when i got time to rebuild AGAIN
All my connections are good as well and it works fine till I go somewhere with a different temperature then the room I built the coil in. Going from 70℉ inside to the 24℉ outside this morning caused a huge difference in the reading of the the atty resistance and dramatically changed the way it vaped. Once I got back inside in the warmth and let everything come back to room temperature before vaping the reading went right back to what it was before going outside and performed perfectly again. I've ripped my zna apart 3 times looking for bad joins and cleaned all contacts. Connections and contacts are not the issue. I haven't tried going outside with my drippers yet but the fact everything goes back to what it was when it is returned to the temperature that the kayfun was first built and attached to the zna at definitely makes me think the lower temperature outside changes things since the DNA judges temperature by the minute changes in resistance caused by the increased heat and calibrated its self based on the resistance measured when the atty is attached. It doesn't seem to make up for the difference for a coil that is well below room temperature.
i didnt even leave the room the original temp resistance was set in today. it was this morning when i woke up and woke up i did when i got that way to hot burnt hit. it hasnt done it for a couple hours now so i dont know but i fire it first and watch the display before i hit it. i know it has to be rewicked but just havent had time to fiddle with it yet. im ready to go back to kanthal as i never got burnt hits with it not in months always keep my tank filled every morning so.............
For those interested, I returned a DNA40 board to Evolv that they received on Wednesday and they shipped me a new board the same day and I received it today. So good on them for the quick turnaround.
I have about 5 hours on the new board and it is working as advertised.
I have about 5 hours on the new board and it is working as advertised.
I don't have a DNA40 yet.......but for those experiencing these "ambient temperature" problems, would removing the atty, replacing it and confirming as "New Atomizer", solve this?
Hmm.
I think it has to be some kind of thermo-mechanical problem. That something contracts or expands and changes the resistance slightly. I'm just guessing though. Do you use contact coils?
The temperature coefficient of resistance for nickel is something like 0.033% per °F (0.6% per °C). So moving from 70°F to 24°F should give you about a 1.5% decrease in resistance. So from 0.2 ohm to 0.197 ohm. The temp coefficient is "largely linear". Or viewed differently, because the change is linear the most change you should expect to get is that the to temperature protection kicks in 1.5% sooner or later. So from what I understand vaping with the DNA40 in cool room should just reduce the max temperature.
Of course if it registered the base resistance in a cool room and moving to a warm room and vice versa would reverse the effect, but it should really only be about 1.5% in either direction, not dramatically.
Just trying to help!
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