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Thank you and ditto! To a certain extent segments of the "vaping Culture" love to experiment and attempt to make devices accomplish tasks that they were never designed to do. Along with deep deep probes /lol into IP secrets that no reasonable inventor would ever release. / no offence intended
Bottom line for me is the 40 and my builds work like a champ on all my drippers. I'm not doing anything special and frankly I could care less. That's beyond my pay grade.
The KF and R91 of course is a slightly different set of challenges for me, however I think I've nailed it after numerous false starts which of course come with the territory and part of the joy of "early adoption" /lol Knowing when to STOP vs continuing to "tweak/experiment" is part of my DNA. Of course, these are just my views and not intended to convince anyone on planet earth or mars that "my way" is the only way.
HTH
Thank you and agreed! I did forget to mention I only wind coils deep in the everglades under a full moon or else they don`t work.
I could live with never rebuilding!
And to add to my previous post, I realize some are having problems and they are real. I don`t mean to trivialize them.
given how fragil nickle coils are never having to rebuild is only in your dreams
Thanks got my replacement chip from evolv today... Working well so far except sometimes it asks me if its a new coil from sleeping to awake
For all of you waiting on evolv fyi: Evolv received it 11/2 received to me 11/14...
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Glad to hear it Heespharm.
It may interest you to know that I got my first screen glitch today. On the box mod. Parts of the screen disappeared. As I got to looking inside I saw a drop of ejuice on the edge of the display. Now I'm not sure how it got in there maybe through the lid I doubt it was through the Fatdaddy vapes 510 or the window which is press fit but who knows. Got a few q-tips and some vodka and swabbed off the display sides and edges, both sides of the ribbon cable and as much of the board as possible especially where the ribbon cable attaches. Let it dry, reassembled and voila no more screen glitches. Just something to keep in mind.
PS I had a bad leaky 510 (not FDV) on an SX350 box mod and instead of screen glitches it had button glitches, the thing acted like it was possessed changing settings firing on its own etc. As I opened it I saw there was ejuice everywhere. On that one, I poured the vodka in it and swished it around and dumped it out and let it dry. Worked like a champ.
~$20 for the enclosure inc. battery cradle/various cheap parts from Fasttech.
~$60 for the DNA40
~$5 for the Fat Daddy Connector (you will need to tap the box, so add ~$7 for the tap)
~$10 for chip cradles from shapeways (if you use them, reduces/eliminated gluing)
~$5 for 3 quality tactile buttons (can use the ones that come with the box, but they semi suck)
~$10 in various wire/adhesives
Numbers are approximate but should be relatively accurate.
40 dollars for the clone on eBay , 5 dollars for a fat daddy 510(optional but a better connection), and 60 dollars for the chip... 105 total
Wires I cannibalized from a box full of poser cables that are junk but I keep around just in case... And electrical tape and solder I had already
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Wires I cannibalized from a box full of poser cables that are junk but I keep around just in case... And electrical tape and solder I had already
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Is there a guide/video for a DIY build. I plan on doing one during winter break. Thanks for the price list.
Just remove old board then follow the wiring diagram in the dna40 data sheet
But it's simple, two wires for fire switch, 2 for up button, 2 for down button, 2 for 510 and 2 for battery... Then the usb charger has two wires that u can connect to the battery terminals or onto the board
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There is a thread here about it:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...looking-tips-tricks-suggestions-new-post.html
Or check the fasttech forums for the cloupur clone case:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10007864/1785704
Yeah sounds easy. I'm not very tech savy, but I have built my own pc's before ;p. Just want some resources for a piece of mind. Thanks
Not sure on the a guide, its relatively straight forward using the DNA's wiring diagram, but it is a bit of a pain in the .... to squeeze everything in/get it perfect.
Unless you really want to avoid doing much rewiring/securing of buttons, i don't see much point in paying an extra $20 to buy an already built box, after-all you're likely never gonna use the clone chip.
The $20 enclosure's on FT come with basically everything you MUST have, though i personally wouldn't use the included 510, wires, or tactile switches.
Yeah I recommend the fast tech way if ur doing this for winter break.. I got this Hana clone in two days from eBay... Speed was my cost plus I have a spare chip now ... Just in case
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I kind of want to do my own wiring just to learn how it all works on a deeper level. As I have only been vaping for about a month (yes, I have an addicted personality ;p)
Winter break is about 2 weeks long, so hopefully I'll have enough time to complete it...if not I do have an authentic hana dna 40 anyway. And that reminds me- does anyone know if the Hana DNA 30 skins will fit on the Hana DNA 40? Are they the same size?
Winter break is about 2 weeks long, so hopefully I'll have enough time to complete it...if not I do have an authentic hana dna 40 anyway. And that reminds me- does anyone know if the Hana DNA 30 skins will fit on the Hana DNA 40? Are they the same size?
If you have all the stuff and tools it's maybe an evenings work? You definitely don't need 2 weeks
The supplied buttons work really nice for me. Clicky and easy to press. I only press fitted them and it's nice how they are hanging in there so far. And you can definitely use the wire for the switches since they don't need to be rated for current. For the battery / 510 wires I used 0.75mm² wire which is a bit thinner than the recommended 18AWG wire but it was the max I was able to fit into the board connectors.
The supplied buttons work really nice for me. Clicky and easy to press. I only press fitted them and it's nice how they are hanging in there so far. And you can definitely use the wire for the switches since they don't need to be rated for current. For the battery / 510 wires I used 0.75mm² wire which is a bit thinner than the recommended 18AWG wire but it was the max I was able to fit into the board connectors.
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