If you have all the stuff and tools it's maybe an evenings work? You definitely don't need 2 weeks
Plus the waiting time for the epoxy (additional cost, but not much) to dry
I don't like hot glue...- Status
Plus the waiting time for the epoxy (additional cost, but not much) to dry
I don't like hot glue...
Epoxy is much better for a permanent fixture than hot glue. You also can use filler materials in it according to what you want to achieve.
About the ft enclosures... It's not always the best choice... Once again depends on what you want / need.
For example, I want to build a mini hana style mod so the logical move would be to buy the mini hana enclosure. The problem with that is that this particular enclosure has the seam going through the top including the 510 cut out... Besides, it's 68mm tall so if one wanted to put a 18650 battery inside, you will have almost impossible mission there.
Ft however also sells a mini hana clone mod that is based on another case that doesn't have the seam on top and is 4mm taller... Fitting a 18650 becomes much easier.
The enclosure is around $17, the mini mod is $46 but in the end, the latter might be the better choice.
My two cents
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
About the ft enclosures... It's not always the best choice... Once again depends on what you want / need.
For example, I want to build a mini hana style mod so the logical move would be to buy the mini hana enclosure. The problem with that is that this particular enclosure has the seam going through the top including the 510 cut out... Besides, it's 68mm tall so if one wanted to put a 18650 battery inside, you will have almost impossible mission there.
Ft however also sells a mini hana clone mod that is based on another case that doesn't have the seam on top and is 4mm taller... Fitting a 18650 becomes much easier.
The enclosure is around $17, the mini mod is $46 but in the end, the latter might be the better choice.
My two cents
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Plus the waiting time for the epoxy (additional cost, but not much) to dry
Depending on the epoxy, cure times are as little as 30 mins to 4 hrs to use and up to 72 hrs for full cure. For the buttons, you can use quick setting epoxy and use it within 60 mins. You don't need super strength epoxy for the buttons.
Focalecig has a mini clone for $44.85 and with the 10% off code (code: fcvapingcheap) so $40.37 shipped and they just stocked it so it ships out within 48 hrs. It's 71.7mm tall. The center divider is also milled out to accept a 18490 battery but you can mod it to accept a 18650. It looks like the black one has the divider cut out but the other colors are milled.
Thx for the info
I'm still debating if I should try my luck with the 68mm enclosure though. If someone managed to stick a 18650 in an original hana mini mod (68mm) then it shouldn't be impossible to achieve the same on that enclosure but still thinking about it
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
I'm still debating if I should try my luck with the 68mm enclosure though. If someone managed to stick a 18650 in an original hana mini mod (68mm) then it shouldn't be impossible to achieve the same on that enclosure but still thinking about it
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
I think I'd rather have the extra 3-4mm for wall strength. With a 68mm enclosure, you'd have less than 1mm to play with once you get the contacts fitted. My shortest 18650 is a LG HE2 and it's 64.1mm. If you can get contacts less than 1mm, that's 66mm and then 1mm walls top and bottom. And you'd need a mill to get the wall that thin w/o going thru.
This explains, or may explain, the ONLY dry hit(s) I've had with the VS rDNA 40.
Vaping like a champ, indoors, on R91 at 0.19 ohms, 16-19 watts. Out for a walk to grocery, vaping. Then, BANG! Dry Hit City. G-d awful. Put in my pocket for the rest of block and a half walk. Out of the store...vaping kinda OK. Wondering what could be the matter. Should I rebuild? Is it a question of wicking.
Nah. Everything has been fine once back indoors, Temp variance indoors to out was about 30+ degrees. Two builds in Kayfun 3.1's have been excellent, though only one has been outdoors. That one nearly vaped to the empty wick. (Something I'm getting used to...and liking.)
I wonder if it's the connections being affected by the cold outside. Perhaps with the metals contracting everything loosens up a tiny bit? Easy way to find out would be to tighten the connections while out side and see if that solves this issue.
Resistance = reference resistance [1 + 0.00641( current temp C - 20° C)]
0.29 ohms at room temp (about 20 °C) going to 24°F (about -4°C) should be somewhere around 0.24~0.25 ohms. Not a huge change.
Of course, it shouldn't effect the vape at all, because temp control is based on the coil resistance at room temperature, not at current temperature. When it asks "new atomizer" it establishes the baseline resistance to go from. It's important to have the coil at room temp (around 20°C/70°F) when establishing the baseline resistance. If the coil is at lower resistance, it'll just take a little more power to get it to temperature. For example, with a 0.29 ohm coil at room temperature, with temp control set to 450°F, temp protection should kick in when the coil hits 0.68 ohms, regardless of what it was when fired.
BOOM!
I guess you are right. From what I've read, modding the 72mm case is a lot easier as you only need to shave one side.
One thing is sticking a 18650 inside, another is to make it servicable (read that as replacing it on a daily basis).
I guess I'll go with the assembled mini mod.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Hey look at this:
It's done that about 5 times... The difference is the screen will refresh to the correct screen after a couple of presses and the screen has never fully crashed the device... It looks like the faulty chips have been reprogrammed with a refresh feature... More of a bandaid then a fix
Update: added silicon and redid my ground wire because it was fraying... Seems to be better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's done that about 5 times... The difference is the screen will refresh to the correct screen after a couple of presses and the screen has never fully crashed the device... It looks like the faulty chips have been reprogrammed with a refresh feature... More of a bandaid then a fix
Update: added silicon and redid my ground wire because it was fraying... Seems to be better
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Got some time to tinker today and broke down the atty. When I got to the build I was basically scratching my head thinking, geeze that was a spaced coil going in. The gaps were very close together, some touching. It was like the middle caved in a little bit causing an according effect; or perhaps I malled it up more than I thought wicking. I think sometimes they were contacting other times and places not. Perhaps that's why the resistance was jumping around too. The leads to the atty were solid though. Anyways This is my theory as to what the issue was.
Rewicked and respaced and relevelled everything. Been working great the last hour or so with no flip flops between tempProtection on and off. It didn't prompt me with the new atty message, even though I did a fire with the coil off which usually works for me. I'll try the other approach if I ever put it down long enough to cool. The coil (same as before just spaced out more evenly and no contact points) has been reading .1 ohm each time I've checked whereas before it was .18+/- .05ish and bouncing around before.
No signs of screen issues and definitely periods of greatness. I think the DNA40, Nickel, and I are just getting to know each other and should be fine. Hope I can get it to consistent performance.
Appreciate the feedback 350 and Jax.
Hmm.
I think it has to be some kind of thermo-mechanical problem. That something contracts or expands and changes the resistance slightly. I'm just guessing though. Do you use contact coils?
The temperature coefficient of resistance for nickel is something like 0.033% per °F (0.6% per °C). So moving from 70°F to 24°F should give you about a 1.5% decrease in resistance. So from 0.2 ohm to 0.197 ohm. The temp coefficient is "largely linear". Or viewed differently, because the change is linear the most change you should expect to get is that the to temperature protection kicks in 1.5% sooner or later. So from what I understand vaping with the DNA40 in cool room should just reduce the max temperature.
Of course if it registered the base resistance in a cool room and moving to a warm room and vice versa would reverse the effect, but it should really only be about 1.5% in either direction, not dramatically.
Just trying to help!
Thanks for that info. I am using micro coils if that makes any difference. Maybe the extreme change is temperature is causing the coils to expand and separate enough to change the readings but I really don't know. I have probably gone through 20+ builds on the kayfun with a consistent vape indoors but a few minutes outside letting the tank get cold still changes everything. I've been trying today with a squape. It's not as cold so the change is not as bad. Since it works so well in doors I'm actually starting to wonder if it's just from the fact the nickel is so soft and the tossing in tha passenger seat or bumps is causing the coil to shift and since the coil is more securely seated the difference isn't as bad with the squapes. Idk though, I've put in too much time with it the past few days. I need to try another brand of nickel wire anyway. I'm not a fan of the after taste. Reminds me a lot of nichrome.
I had about 2-3 months to think about all this
I finally settled on the full sized clone for now. But for $40 shipped (Focalecig), I might just order one for the hell of it.Was there any juice on the board? Seems odd that you've been getting all the bad boards. What are you doing to them?
I had about 2-3 months to think about all this
Was there any juice on the board? Seems odd that you've been getting all the bad boards. What are you doing to them?
I think it's a ground problem... I grounded to the chassis not the 510 due to space issues... Ever since I fixed the ground it's been running pretty well... Plus the silicon under the ribbon
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can't have a mod or atty that doesn't say mini / nano or micro in it's name... It's a psychological thingI had about 2-3 months to think about all this
Was there any juice on the board? Seems odd that you've been getting all the bad boards. What are you doing to them?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
That's how I understood it would work but if the cold is making an impact on the reading and not shifting in the coils makes me wonder. Could it be possible that the initial reading at room temperature is calibrated to the equivalent of zero so anything under that has no impact till the resistance of the coil reaches the resistance calibrated as zero when first attached? Basically saying that if when first attached the resistance is 0.2ohm and the DNA calibrates that as "zero" and basically estimates that every additional 0.01ohm to 0.2ohm is an increase in temperature but when it sees 0.15ohm on the same coil and you don't take the coil off to recalibrate it doesn't seem the change of resistance from 0.15ohm to 0.2ohm as an increase in temperature so it blasts all it has till it reaches what the original estimated resistance limit for the temperature selected. I hope none of that is correct but it does explain the behavior I have been experiencing. I find it hard to believe evolve would over look that but then again it clearly sets limits since it needs to be prompted when a new coil is installed or not to change parameters.
Last edited:
I tried to read that more than once but there's people around me talking
When mine was resetting the Base resistance, it made me think it was automatically resetting the Base resistance, I thought it was a design fault as if it resets the Base resistance on its own when you're in a room/outside where it's not room temperature, then it would be estimating the wrong temperature. In my mind, what it should do is only take a base reading when you screw on an atty. As you can do that at room temperature and know you're calibrating it correctly. So once it's on, it shouldn't reset the Base resistance at all. If you do enter a climate of a lower temperature, the resistance of the coil will reduce, so it should be reading that as a drop in temperature and then would vape the same.
Imo the chip shouldn't reset base resistance unless the atty is removed. Mine seemed to be working like that yesterday and didn't change all day, this was after I rebuilt the coil differently and made sure the leads connected properly. But for now I've gone back to kanthal until my 29 gauge ni200 turns up.
I can't have a mod or atty that doesn't say mini / nano or micro in it's name... It's a psychological thing
Regards
Tiny
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Fixed your name. You'll like it.
- Status
