I'm just trying to pass along useful info that I read on the other thread re guarding the chip! Heck, I tried it myself at 40, wasn't too keen on my experience there either!
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Well I can't blame you NOVA albeit I would like to. I was the one crazy enough to give it a go at 40 watts. It didn't really BURN my lip but it did get hot enough to startle the be-jiggers out of me.
The reason I tried it is because I have had this nagging thought that maybe I was sitting on a time-bomb with my DNA40 and it was just waiting to catch me off guard and then go bonkers.
Actually I was impressed that my dual coil fogger and wick was able to hold 404 degrees thru the entire pull with no signs of going into temperature runaway. I have heard others talk about their attys hitting a certain temp (below TP) and pretty much just holding there. I had my doubts about their claims but like so many other things what the He!! do I know.
I am back at 15 watts and after the tests at 20, 30 and 40 watts my once full tank is down to the juice ports in the chimney so it is time to refill.
But I am going to have to wait a few minutes my head is still spinning and I don't think I could hit the fill hole with my syringe.
Actually NOVA lets blame this on "The Kiwi" I think he started this.
Nope. I want to know if this will fail. If it happens, I'll send it back. If not, neener, neener, neener
Vaping at 36w. How the hell do you guys vape this high??? Ick.
I just tried washing it with soap and it didn't help. Not wasting my vodka on it
Buy the 200 ml bottle of SKOL -- it's cheap, has lots of uses around the shop and unless you start taking a bath in it, should last a long time. (I seem to recall it's like $2.50, but I may be totally off there.)
Well I can't blame you NOVA albeit I would like to. I was the one crazy enough to give it a go at 40 watts. It didn't really BURN my lip but it did get hot enough to startle the be-jiggers out of me.
The reason I tried it is because I have had this nagging thought that maybe I was sitting on a time-bomb with my DNA40 and it was just waiting to catch me off guard and then go bonkers.
Actually I was impressed that my dual coil fogger and wick was able to hold 404 degrees thru the entire pull with no signs of going into temperature runaway. I have heard others talk about their attys hitting a certain temp (below TP) and pretty much just holding there. I had my doubts about their claims but like so many other things what the He!! do I know.
I am back at 15 watts and after the tests at 20, 30 and 40 watts my once full tank is down to the juice ports in the chimney so it is time to refill.
But I am going to have to wait a few minutes my head is still spinning and I don't think I could hit the fill hole with my syringe.
Actually NOVA lets blame this on "The Kiwi" I think he started this.
Ha! Yea....... That guy! I'm just glad I was able to try the tricks others posted to determine if my unit was glitchy or not!
Hopefully no more of my posts will cause physical harm, sorry 'bout that!!
I'm gonna be honest... I just don't get it.
I mean right now for example I'm running tp at 480. I hit the button and it goes to 480 within less than a second. It then holds there throughout the draw by increasing or lowering wattage. This provides an absolute constant vape throughout.
If you prefer the vape at say 350 degrees I get it, but then why would you set your tp at 450? Because in doing so the vape is going to be all over the place. Fire it before you start to draw and it's going to hit 450 and give you a hot start, as you draw the power going in doesn't support that temp so it drops. As your draw varies so will your vape. Not trying to sound like a ...., but at that point why not just run kanthal and make sure you don't run your tank dry?
To me what makes the dna40 the wondrous piece of tech that it is is that you can have an absolute consistent vape no matter what you do during your draw.
So if I want to vape at 350 then why on earth wouldn't I set the tp to 350? Then when I fire it the temp instantly goes exactly where I want it, as I draw on it when I draw harder it puts in more power, when I ease up it reduces power, no matter what I do the temp of the vapor and flavor ate going to remain exactly the same.
I just don't understand the point behind trying to reduce wattage to get a vape well below my tp setting when I can just set the tp and have it be 100 percent consistent.
I mean right now for example I'm running tp at 480. I hit the button and it goes to 480 within less than a second. It then holds there throughout the draw by increasing or lowering wattage. This provides an absolute constant vape throughout.
If you prefer the vape at say 350 degrees I get it, but then why would you set your tp at 450? Because in doing so the vape is going to be all over the place. Fire it before you start to draw and it's going to hit 450 and give you a hot start, as you draw the power going in doesn't support that temp so it drops. As your draw varies so will your vape. Not trying to sound like a ...., but at that point why not just run kanthal and make sure you don't run your tank dry?
To me what makes the dna40 the wondrous piece of tech that it is is that you can have an absolute consistent vape no matter what you do during your draw.
So if I want to vape at 350 then why on earth wouldn't I set the tp to 350? Then when I fire it the temp instantly goes exactly where I want it, as I draw on it when I draw harder it puts in more power, when I ease up it reduces power, no matter what I do the temp of the vapor and flavor ate going to remain exactly the same.
I just don't understand the point behind trying to reduce wattage to get a vape well below my tp setting when I can just set the tp and have it be 100 percent consistent.
This doesn't make sense...
Regardless if you set it at 15w or 40w, the temp protection should keep the vape at the same temperature.
Imagine 20w and 350F... It should start at 20w and once the coil reaches 350F, it should start throttling (which could be 20w, 18 or even 15w).
If you keep the same temp and rise the watts to 40, it should be exactly the same vape but it also should hit the target temp much faster and throttle down sooner but, in the end, the vape should be the same.
For people that have less temp than the set one, are probably using less watts than they need for a set temperature.
Edit: I was beaten by rusirius.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Regardless if you set it at 15w or 40w, the temp protection should keep the vape at the same temperature.
Imagine 20w and 350F... It should start at 20w and once the coil reaches 350F, it should start throttling (which could be 20w, 18 or even 15w).
If you keep the same temp and rise the watts to 40, it should be exactly the same vape but it also should hit the target temp much faster and throttle down sooner but, in the end, the vape should be the same.
For people that have less temp than the set one, are probably using less watts than they need for a set temperature.
Edit: I was beaten by rusirius.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
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Makes total sense, I think some people have different expectations for their vape and look to experiment with it until they find what satisfies. When I get mine back, I'm going to try all kinds of builds and settings. Why? Because I can!!
OK rusirius,
I just tried your way. It works!!!
I had been watching the power and when I did what you say to do the power kind of goes all over the place. So I figured that was not a good deal.
Just now doing it your way you are correct (as usual) and though the power was bobbling all over the temp stayed right at the TP point.
But now I am out of the test loop for another 30 minutes... until my head stops spinning again. This is as bad as when I am playing with new builds puffing away and not washing the juice off my hands i.e. High as a kite - Ugh!
I just tried your way. It works!!!
I had been watching the power and when I did what you say to do the power kind of goes all over the place. So I figured that was not a good deal.
Just now doing it your way you are correct (as usual) and though the power was bobbling all over the temp stayed right at the TP point.
But now I am out of the test loop for another 30 minutes... until my head stops spinning again. This is as bad as when I am playing with new builds puffing away and not washing the juice off my hands i.e. High as a kite - Ugh!
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Lol, I keep 0mg around for build testing, etc.
If you're like me you'll find that the vape is 100 percent consistent from start to finish. You'll also find that changing the tp by 10 or 20 degrees can make a big difference in the flavor and vapor produced.
After you settle in a temp if the tp keeps kicking in then you can start bumping the wattage down till it doesn't. The way the dna40 is designed it doesn't show the message just because it hits your temp, it only shows it when it has to drop the wattage way below the set wattage for a longer period of time. So if I build something that I find runs at my tp by kicking out say 30w when my power is set to 40, then I set the wattage to say 35w or maybe a little less depending on build, airflow, etc. That keeps the tp message from becoming annoying, yet it'll start to show up if my wicks are getting dry, etc. Because then it has to regulate the wattage down much lower than the normal 30w.
I just kept my temp at 420°F so I don't burn the rayon. I adjust the wattage to get a warmer or cooler vape depending on my mood. I'm usually at 12-14w on other mods and it works for me. I'm at 15w on the VS and it's good.
Lol, I keep 0mg around for build testing, etc.
If you're like me you'll find that the vape is 100 percent consistent from start to finish. You'll also find that changing the tp by 10 or 20 degrees can make a big difference in the flavor and vapor produced.
After you settle in a temp if the tp keeps kicking in then you can start bumping the wattage down till it doesn't. The way the dna40 is designed it doesn't show the message just because it hits your temp, it only shows it when it has to drop the wattage way below the set wattage for a longer period of time. So if I build something that I find runs at my tp by kicking out say 30w when my power is set to 40, then I set the wattage to say 35w or maybe a little less depending on build, airflow, etc. That keeps the tp message from becoming annoying, yet it'll start to show up if my wicks are getting dry, etc. Because then it has to regulate the wattage down much lower than the normal 30w.
OK - I am starting to like your method - a lot.
And yes I have been told to get some 0mg for testing but every time I go to purchase some new juice I forget to buy some 0mg. However after todays buzz-orama I don't think I will have any trouble remembering to get some on my next order.
Thanks for the tips rusirius and everyone else in this "How to" loop or is that "Looped".
PS - it's not like this brand new gadget comes with any instructions except the one that says a typical Ni200 coil is 0.4 ohms and makes no mention that to achieve that you are talking about a coil the size of a garage door spring.
Imo, on atties like the kayfun, it's best to either use larger diameter or use higher gauge wire. I've found that if my coils get too wide from too many wraps, the airflow is just insufficient to adequately cool the entire coil evenly, and ends up giving me a harsher vape. I've talked to other folks who've had the same issue too.
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I'm just about to the four day point with my FT box/DNA 40 without any problems.So far so good, this is my first NR coil.
I have twisted 30g on 2.78mm drill bit (7/64"). I think it was 9 or 10 wraps, spaced. It's pretty good. Kept up at 40w chain vaping 9-10 pulls.
Yeap. I've found 9 or 10 wraps to be my maximum too.
When I was using 28ga and going 12 to 14 wraps on 3/32, the coil was just soooo wide most of the coil were significantly away from the airhole and I had poor vapes. Dropped my wraps down to 10 and used 7/64 and it was significantly better.
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Been there done that. A real PITA.
Kiwi, I have had the same problem and discovered your solution all on my own... that's a first. I had a 16 turn 32 gauge X 2 coils (total ~0.2 ohms) in my fogger and the temperature would climb thru the roof no matter how hard I puffed. And like you the flavor was a little harsh but the worst is the flavor was nothing like it should be.
I ripped it out last night and went with 30 gauge 12 wraps on a 3mm mandrel for a total of 0.12 ohms tightly spaced (not touching) to keep as much as I could over the air holes. Eureka, it works like a charm good taste, not harsh, plenty of vapor and the temperature doesn't runaway with itself like it did the 16 wraps where most of the coils were a mile either side of the air holes.
The coil portions that were far from the air holes must have been getting really hot although when I ripped it out I didn't seen any signs of uneven heat - "Go-Figure". Anyway I will stick with coils that are closer in physical size to the Kanthal coils I used pre-DNA40. I tell ya though it is hard for me (OCD) to use coils that are in the range of 0.12. It just makes me feel like "that can't be right" but it is hard to turn your back on success.
Actually between you and rusirius and a couple of other folks I would be ready to put my V.F. up for sale in the "Classifieds". Caveat, don't go getting a big head now.
Been there done that. A real PITA.
Kiwi, I have had the same problem and discovered your solution all on my own... that's a first. I had a 16 turn 32 gauge X 2 coils (total ~0.2 ohms) in my fogger and the temperature would climb thru the roof no matter how hard I puffed. And like you the flavor was a little harsh but the worst is the flavor was nothing like it should be.
I ripped it out last night and went with 30 gauge 12 wraps on a 3mm mandrel for a total of 0.12 ohms tightly spaced (not touching) to keep as much as I could over the air holes. Eureka, it works like a charm good taste, not harsh, plenty of vapor and the temperature doesn't runaway with itself like it did the 16 wraps where most of the coils were a mile either side of the air holes.
The coil portions that were far from the air holes must have been getting really hot although when I ripped it out I didn't seen any signs of uneven heat - "Go-Figure". Anyway I will stick with coils that are closer in physical size to the Kanthal coils I used pre-DNA40. I tell ya though it is hard for me (OCD) to use coils that are in the range of 0.12. It just makes me feel like "that can't be right" but it is hard to turn your back on success.
Actually between you and rusirius and a couple of other folks I would be ready to put my V.F. up for sale in the "Classifieds". Caveat, don't go getting a big head now.
Hahaha yeah. For many of us, transitioning to Ni200 builds have been a journey of trial and (waaaay more) errors to figure out what works. I've ripped apart God knows how many builds as it is haha. But I'm glad we are slowly figuring everything out!
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Awwww shucks...Been there done that. A real PITA.
Kiwi, I have had the same problem and discovered your solution all on my own... that's a first. I had a 16 turn 32 gauge X 2 coils (total ~0.2 ohms) in my fogger and the temperature would climb thru the roof no matter how hard I puffed. And like you the flavor was a little harsh but the worst is the flavor was nothing like it should be.
I ripped it out last night and went with 30 gauge 12 wraps on a 3mm mandrel for a total of 0.12 ohms tightly spaced (not touching) to keep as much as I could over the air holes. Eureka, it works like a charm good taste, not harsh, plenty of vapor and the temperature doesn't runaway with itself like it did the 16 wraps where most of the coils were a mile either side of the air holes.
The coil portions that were far from the air holes must have been getting really hot although when I ripped it out I didn't seen any signs of uneven heat - "Go-Figure". Anyway I will stick with coils that are closer in physical size to the Kanthal coils I used pre-DNA40. I tell ya though it is hard for me (OCD) to use coils that are in the range of 0.12. It just makes me feel like "that can't be right" but it is hard to turn your back on success.
Actually between you and rusirius and a couple of other folks I would be ready to put my V.F. up for sale in the "Classifieds". Caveat, don't go getting a big head now.
A little trick I learned when dealing with large surface area coils in air flow setups that have small air holes compared to coil size like the fogger, orchid, etc. Spacing the coil further away can help, but for the best results I've found making a V in the coil helps tremendously. Make the long coil, bend it in half into a V and then wick it, our depending on setup, wick it first then bend it. Keeps the coils more verticle over the air holes and really smoothes things out.
Hahaha yeah. For many of us, transitioning to Ni200 builds have been a journey of trial and (waaaay more) errors to figure out what works. I've ripped apart God knows how many builds as it is haha. But I'm glad we are slowly figuring everything out!
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Boy can I identify with the re-re-builds. Before I got my V.F. I ordered 32, 30 and 28 Ga Ni200 100' foot spools and I am about ready to order some to replenish my stock. My Kanthal after a year and a half is still in ample supply from my original puchase. I don't think with Kanthal I had to just rip it out and start over actually just standard re-builds when they got gunky. Actually the Kanthal was good for my ego, wish I could say that for Ni200.
This Ni200 gives a whole new meaning to "Old Dogs and New Tricks".
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