I don't believe knowing who controls your borders is minutia and I am positive your government agrees with me.
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If you're looking for the original bashing, conflict and trolling spirit, you can check out a few dna 40 clone threads as well as one or the other yihi thread. That's where the action is now. This thread is now only for happy owners expressing their love towards the dna 40.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I was enjoying the discussion on soldering tips and working with the board.
I was reading along with you than, at least in the passed four or five pages but I didn't notice anyone using any silver content solders, or did I miss it?
I like this solder myself and unless the Internet sent me astray again it lends about 15% more conductivity.
Generally a good quality pure copper conductor will be smaller in diameter so the wires will fit in the holes easier. I've been cutting the 18 gauge wires at a slight angle and only stripping enough to make contact through the board with very little wire exposed on the exiting side.
Since the newest boards were delivered it's only been a faulty spring in one FDVs 510 and various atomizers that have been at any fault.
I broke out my older style Wen model 100 and soldered a couple wires on a Varitube style 510 for my Sigelei 100 watt box. What a pleasure it was to use.
Something I acquired a few years back but never even plugged it in till last night when I cleaned and tinned the tip. Looks brand new.
Re border crossing, one 750 ml bottle of booze and one cartoon if cigs per month.
But there's plenty of folks crossing multiple times a day with one of each (in a living)
Something I acquired a few years back but never even plugged it in till last night when I cleaned and tinned the tip. Looks brand new.
Re border crossing, one 750 ml bottle of booze and one cartoon if cigs per month.
But there's plenty of folks crossing multiple times a day with one of each (in a living)
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I use a Weller station myself, had to upgrade from my decades old simple wand and the 220 volt job I bought cheap that the class 2 transformer burned up for.
I looked through my pictures but didn't really find anything that show the 40s I've soldered well.
This is about as good as I've got.
The repair to the 510
I looked through my pictures but didn't really find anything that show the 40s I've soldered well.
This is about as good as I've got.
The repair to the 510
So. Popping in. Here's a build that I've run approx 100 mls, and maybe 5 to 6 rewick. Sharing this because I've been dry burning my coils to clean it. Resistance and performance has been holding up so far
The wire has definitely gotten a ton more malleable, and requires me using a tiny flat head screw driver to reestablish the spacing after i rewick
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The wire has definitely gotten a ton more malleable, and requires me using a tiny flat head screw driver to reestablish the spacing after i rewick
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So. Popping in. Here's a build that I've run approx 100 mls, and maybe 5 to 6 rewick. Sharing this because I've been dry burning my coils to clean it. Resistance and performance has been holding up so far
The wire has definitely gotten a ton more malleable, and requires me using a tiny flat head screw driver to reestablish the spacing after i rewick
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I find by around ten dry burns the coil is done. The wire is soft and brittle by then.
Other then that bobs your uncle.
Nope. Not sure if that's a good idea.
It's kinda hard to explain what dry burning does to the wire. Perhaps malleable wasn't a good word. But like what woofer said, it definitely becomes pretty damn brittle, while still being easily deformed. Perhaps someone else can describe it better haha
But anyways my point was more that dry burning the wire inherently makes it more brittle. Quenching any metal will only exacerbate the problem, so I would rather not do it. There has been a few times when I dry burn a wire the first or second time, and it kinda just snaps when I'm rewicking it.
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I have tried this hoping it would help banish the gunk, I can not say it did for me however qorax reports having good results with water.
I did end up with a 10 ml bottle of water that is handy for cleaning e-juicey hands.
Glad you tried it and reported back!
It is definitely worthwhile to me and I will continue to dry burn, how about you?
I've been experimenting with coils enough that I have only use cold water on red hot Ni200 twice now, once on two different coils, one 28 gauge and one triple twisted 32 gauge, no issues for me so far.
Malleable and brittle at the same time I don't understand, they're about opposites.
Malleable and brittle at the same time I don't understand, they're about opposites.
It's true, I've experienced the same thing after multiple dry-burns. I'd call it flimsy and brittle.
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The Ulbrich Ni200 datasheet would confirm this. It says that sustained temps of over 800° will result in carbon leaching and loss of ductility.
Dunking coils in a shallow dish of water or squirting water on them while firing cleans them some. I can then use a small brush to clean the coils a bit more followed by a rinse. That said, I can wrap coils pretty quickly so I often as not just do a new one.
Thanks! I don't think I'll be quenching coils in used motor oil to regain carbon atoms!
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I just got a new bap to replace a broken one I sent in. The battery meter is sort of going crazy. I'm going to hope it fixes itself because I don't want to go another month without it. See video. Also, when I initially turn the device on, it is always automatically in temp control mode, even if there is a kanthal build on there. My build is about .68 so I would think the chip could figure out its kanthal rather easily.
https://vimeo.com/122550231
https://vimeo.com/122550231
Haha it's Smth I've been doing from the start in spite of the numerous "warnings". Tbh im personally not concerned about carbon leaching at all, even if inhaled. Im skeptical that the health effects are significant at all, given the sheer negligible amounts of carbon in it to begin with, and also the physiological effects of carbon.
I've seen people like Qorax report firing their atty under TP and running water. I've been trying it recently and it simply doesn't work for me. It might get a tiny bit cleaner, but not much at all.
So yeah. I do believe I will continue to dry burn, especially if im a little low on time and in a rush. That said I will probably limit the number of dry burns to maybe 2 - 3 times.
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I just wiped some Ni200 very clean with alcohol and torched the bejeebers out of it. You can see the dull carbon on the surface very clearly and the wire loses its polished metal feel. However, wiping the wire very hard repeatedly with a white paper towel leaves the towel perfectly clean so the carbon isn't powdery at all. I don't see how it could be inhaled.
The loss of ductility is noticeable but not dramatic.
peraspera,
I wonder if what you are seeing in the form of color change is really carbon (there just isn't that much carbon in Ni200) but most metals tend to change color when heated. This is even done with some metals to give it a unique look.
Also if it was some oxides of some type you would definitely see it on the paper towel.
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