Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3 *PART 2*

[GeekyGeezer]

I have a post back in this thread (of course i can't find it), where I posted the weights of the SS parts and the Ti parts. So I measured them again:
SS 510+beauty ring = 11g
Ti 510+beauty ring = 5g.
You can feel the weight difference in the hand.

R

Must be my scale then. I can't feel a difference in weight. But more importantly, the reason I like Ti so much other than the incredible lightness is the distinctive shade. I can spot the greyish titanium from a distance. All of these parts have the sheen and shade of stainless.

And as for my ticket I got a reply which, while not directly answering my question, verifies a difference in weight:

"Thank you for asking. There is a slight difference in weight. The TI weighs just a bit less then the stainless steel. They are otherwise the same "

And for all my nonsense and doubting here, I still ordered 2 or each.

And since I'm feeling exceptionally old and feeble right now, a quote from my old friend Bill: "Much ado about nothing"

 

[AstroTurf]

Must be my scale then. I can't feel a difference in weight. But more importantly, the reason I like Ti so much other than the incredible lightness is the distinctive shade. I can spot the greyish titanium from a distance. All of these parts have the sheen and shade of stainless.

And as for my ticket I got a reply which, while not directly answering my question, verifies a difference in weight:

"Thank you for asking. There is a slight difference in weight. The TI weighs just a bit less then the stainless steel. They are otherwise the same "

And for all my nonsense and doubting here, I still ordered 2 or each.

And since I'm feeling exceptionally old and feeble right now, a quote from my old friend Bill: "Much ado about nothing"

I've found that on my Ti that they were stainless.

Perhaps it was changed at some point?

Personally, I think that for a 510 connection, stainless would be better.

 

[WillyZee]

in my Ti 2.5 mini they appear to be stainless ... I may be wrong, I believe the Ti 2.5s were the first titanium Provi.

The Ti P3 came after the Ti 2.5s ... that may be when they introduced the Ti 510 connection.

 

[GeekyGeezer]

in my Ti 2.5 mini they appear to be stainless ... I may be wrong, I believe the Ti 2.5s were the first titanium Provi.

The Ti P3 came after the Ti 2.5s ... that may be when they introduced the Ti 510 connection.

I think that's highly likely but I'd think it was a running change. My Ti P3 has stainless parts.

 

[tearose50]

Here's what ProVape said about the mini and standard 2.5 when it came out in Ti:

"The Special Edition Titanium features a custom TI logo on the tube and end cap.
Note that the top cap beauty ring and removeable 510 connection are made of stainless steel, everything else is ultralight Titanium"

Discussion thread for the ProVari™ V2.5 - Special Limited Edition Titanium

I don't know on the P3 -- I just know I my Ti's.

 

[GeekyGeezer]

Here's what ProVape said about the mini and standard 2.5 when it came out in Ti:

"The Special Edition Titanium features a custom TI logo on the tube and end cap.
Note that the top cap beauty ring and removeable 510 connection are made of stainless steel, everything else is ultralight Titanium"

Discussion thread for the ProVari™ V2.5 - Special Limited Edition Titanium

I don't know on the P3 -- I just know I my Ti's.

My Ti versions are my favorites also - but don't tell the others.

Do any others here have the Ti parts in hand?

 

[Alter]

My wife's Istick100 is beginning to wear out, the 510 threads are getting tired and I have airflow adapter from back in the day to help save her threads. I got her a P3 and received it last week so I hope this should tie her over for the next many years.
My disappointment in the adjustable 510 that is a oring that squishes a bit with a load of pressure, way more pressure you'd use threading on a atty...that I can get past. Its with a kanger subtank mini and the gap from the ring to the atty is what I can't get past. I bought a extra P3 connector and the gap is even wider. Now I have to manufacture a something to fill the gap and hold solid cause I can't backthread the ring to touch the atty cause my wife will surely loose it filling it with juice. I expected a bit of gap but not like this.
Glad I spent only the hundred bucks on it rather than the 250 I was almost willing to spend when they came out.

 

[AstroTurf]

My wife's Istick100 is beginning to wear out, the 510 threads are getting tired and I have airflow adapter from back in the day to help save her threads. I got her a P3 and received it last week so I hope this should tie her over for the next many years.
My disappointment in the adjustable 510 that is a oring that squishes a bit with a load of pressure, way more pressure you'd use threading on a atty...that I can get past. Its with a kanger subtank mini and the gap from the ring to the atty is what I can't get past. I bought a extra P3 connector and the gap is even wider. Now I have to manufacture a something to fill the gap and hold solid cause I can't backthread the ring to touch the atty cause my wife will surely loose it filling it with juice. I expected a bit of gap but not like this.
Glad I spent only the hundred bucks on it rather than the 250 I was almost willing to spend when they came out.

My advise...

Buy a decent topper, or, buy some sandpaper for current topper 510 pin.

 

[oplholik]

I understand that can be a bummer for ya. I have very few rta's that don't leave a gap on any Provari I have, but it doesn't bother me so much.

 

[WillyZee]

I don't mind some gap

 

[coldgin96]

I don't mind some gap

 

[Alter]

My advise...

Buy a decent topper, or, buy some sandpaper for current topper 510 pin.

Subtank mini is the only atty we use. I got building and wicking it down to a science, they haven't leaked a drop in the ages we've been using them and they have performed flawlessly....hate to say it but I trust my subtanks.
Not sure what you mean with sandpaper, I can't shorted the positive pin, it just barely sticks out and the base threads I don't know if I can remove some without compromising the threads.
I'm prolly going to end up putting a oring between the hitter and ring, it seems the simplest solution...but still it somewhat maddening that I have to revamp the hitter to look nice.

 

[coldgin96]

My wife's Istick100 is beginning to wear out, the 510 threads are getting tired and I have airflow adapter from back in the day to help save her threads. I got her a P3 and received it last week so I hope this should tie her over for the next many years.
My disappointment in the adjustable 510 that is a oring that squishes a bit with a load of pressure, way more pressure you'd use threading on a atty...that I can get past. Its with a kanger subtank mini and the gap from the ring to the atty is what I can't get past. I bought a extra P3 connector and the gap is even wider. Now I have to manufacture a something to fill the gap and hold solid cause I can't backthread the ring to touch the atty cause my wife will surely loose it filling it with juice. I expected a bit of gap but not like this.
Glad I spent only the hundred bucks on it rather than the 250 I was almost willing to spend when they came out.

 

[AstroTurf]

Subtank mini is the only atty we use. I got building and wicking it down to a science, they haven't leaked a drop in the ages we've been using them and they have performed flawlessly....hate to say it but I trust my subtanks.
Not sure what you mean with sandpaper, I can't shorted the positive pin, it just barely sticks out and the base threads I don't know if I can remove some without compromising the threads.
I'm prolly going to end up putting a oring between the hitter and ring, it seems the simplest solution...but still it somewhat maddening that I have to revamp the hitter to look nice.

Remove tank, remove 510 adapter from mod, screw in tank to 510 adapter.

Does it screw down fully?

 

[SoftSell]

There's no more P3s or Procyons on the Provape site... What a day...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oplholik]

I wonder if when all the Radius's are gone, if they will close it all up without saying anything, and steal away into the night?

 

[ENAUD]

 

[BreSha6869]

I wonder if when all the Radius's are gone, if they will close it all up without saying anything, and steal away into the night?

The lack of communication is what's bothersome. Be nice if someone at Provape gave at least an indication that things might not be going great right now. But watching the stock levels on their website over the last 6 months might be all one needs to know.

Sucks.

 

[oplholik]

Yeah, that pretty much tells the tale. Still it'd be nice if they communicated a little tho.

 

[Ca Ike]

Subtank mini is the only atty we use. I got building and wicking it down to a science, they haven't leaked a drop in the ages we've been using them and they have performed flawlessly....hate to say it but I trust my subtanks.
Not sure what you mean with sandpaper, I can't shorted the positive pin, it just barely sticks out and the base threads I don't know if I can remove some without compromising the threads.
I'm prolly going to end up putting a oring between the hitter and ring, it seems the simplest solution...but still it somewhat maddening that I have to revamp the hitter to look nice.

Kanger tanks have always had long 510 threads. I've never had any kanger tank sit flush on any mod. That's the problem with the 510 connector. There really is no set spec other than 7mmx.5mm thread size. Most seem to stick to a connector length of 4-5 mm but Kanger is always 5.5mm+.

If you want to fill that gap get a 6.5mmx 22mm x 1.5mm rubber or plastic fender washer. It will thread onto the tank and hold in place when you remove the tank.