Official ProVari Radius Thread - Part 2

[cats5365]

We can proceed if you end up
Waiting. Then issue must be that Windows installed its own generic sub driver. We just have to remove it and reinstall

I suppose you could use Windows system restore to go back to before you'd installed anything provape. That may be the easiest thing. There should be s list of dates and times. You can choose the one just before you installed for the first time.


Windows 8.1 right ? If it's later than 7 system restore works pretty well and doesn't have he issues associated with it previously as Windows 8 on are copy installs (generic to all
Machines rather than customized on install for each)

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/17085/windows-8-restore-refresh-reset-pc

You can go through this process restore to before you'd installed anything (make sure you reboot when needed and once before you start and once after drivers are installed) it doesn't delete data. You won't lose files or emails or anything you've done it just deals with modified Windows files.

Then run the installer as administrator. If you're in anything before 8 I would not recommend system restore.

This is what Provape sent me, and I'm not completely understanding it:
Next, look at the device manager to see if there are any drivers that have not installed. Right click "Computer", "Properties", select device manager. While the Radius is plugged in, are there any "!" symbols showing on the list? If the device was originally plugged into the PC before the software was installed, this can cause the drivers to not be available to Windows and it can create this setup.

If necessary, then try to reinstall the driver for COM29. This should be done through Windows Manage Device Drivers. The computer should be rebooted too, not just hibernated or put into sleep mode. There is no need to reinstall the software. If the device driver is having problems, that could cause the application to freeze or go non-responsive for a period of time until something in the driver times out.

If reinstalling the driver doesn’t work, then uninstall the device and re-add it. Go into Device manager and you will see a "!" next to the driver that didn't load. Try to reload it. You have to have the Radius plugged into the USB before you'll see the "!" next to the failed driver.

Please let me know if you need further assistance. Good luck!!!

When I checked the list, the only warning icon I found was for my HP printer, but I've been using the printer OK without the missing file.

I used the restore points on XP, but this new windows keeps sending me to mysterious websites on bing, and I'm not trusting them right now. I'll have to keep poking around to see if I can find the restore point. This PC came as a Win8 and was upgraded to 8.1 as soon as I could hook it to the internet, so I might be running into some issues with that.

Found and running system restore right now...

 

[MikeE3]

Not on Windows, but had this problem on a Mac with one Radius not being recognized.

What worked was turning the Radius off and then on again, then trying again.

The file (on a Mac) is ProVariRadiusProgrammer-1.0.1.dmg

Did I miss it. Did Provape release a Mac version of the Radius updater?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[AstroTurf]

Did I miss it. Did Provape release a Mac version of the Radius updater?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes you did...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ColoKaren]

Do remember that stainless steel wire is welding wire - even the high end stuff is repackaged. The difference in bulk buy and small Spool is how clean it is. The ire I bought in bulk is as clean to The human eye as any other I've tried. However k still wash my wire with degreasing soap after wiping it down with rubbing alcohol. I take off several
Feet and rewrap during which time I do the alcohol cleanse and then I wash and rinse as I'm getting ready to coil.

It's probably overkill. I've gained it straight off the spool with 0 taste difference or side effects. The wire looks clean and runs through my fingers clean. Much cleaner than many a filthy roll Of kanthal. But be aware as we talk about stainless steel it's welding wire. I don't want anyone to freak it if you vape it for six months then learn that and think you've been poisoning yourself.


Point at which toxins are released is 5000-6000 degrees F. Once again. Don't dry burn temp control wires. And if you do, pulse the power.

If you know you're the type of
Person to obsess about harm reduction buy 317L. Read the Wikipedia entry on stainless numbering and you'll see there's not much in it and the higher numbers don't always mean better. Higher can be harder to deal with due to spring back.


Just wanted to add that if anyone goes looking for bulk wire on eBay. It's all Over the place. Gplat is one name.

Awesome advice as always! Where might I find 28/36 Clapton SS over Kanthal? Been searching for over an hour, but maybe I'm just goofing that up.

 

[MikeE3]

Yes you did...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And now I even found it on the Provape site. Sweet!

 

[h00ligan]

This is what Provape sent me, and I'm not completely understanding it:
Next, look at the device manager to see if there are any drivers that have not installed. Right click "If ... driver.

Please let me know if you need further assistance. Good luck!!!

When I checked the list, the only warning icon I found was for my HP printer, but I've been using the printer OK without the missing file.

I

Found and running system restore right now...

You don't do a thing through a website. Sounds like maybe spyware but it could be Windows being weird about directions. Provape had you doing what I suggested they hair new exactly where the issue was. It sounds like.

Let me know how the restore goes. I hope you went with a very current one from
Just before the install. Remember to install the app As administrator

 

[h00ligan]

Awesome advice as always! Where might I find 28/36 Clapton SS over Kanthal? Been searching for over an hour, but maybe I'm just goofing that up.

Lightening vapes has it. $11/25ft
Clapton Wire

Pay attention when you choose. K is kanthal. They have stainless wrapped stainless Clapton too but bear in mind that will have to be spaced and with a stainless core in 28 you're going to need 8 wraps to get to 1 ohm. At least. So if you don't have atomizers with a lot Of space the stainless stainless may be tough to use depending on your vaping style. For mouth to lung you'd want higher resistance than the direct ling builds I'm sure you know. Just bear in mind stainless stainless Clapton will hit spot badly in contacts. Here's a screen shot of the proper selection for what I'm using. Hopefully it's legible at this size. I don't know if you meant you want stainless wrapped kanthal or meant kanthal wrapped stainless. Using stainless as the wrap means you can't do contact coils. It wouldn't really be useful to have kanthal core and stainless wrap as it limits builds and doesn't work for temp control. Kanthal wrapped around stainless on the other hand is very useful and works for temp control.

Given the shipping price id recommend grabbing a big spool of inexpensive wire you know you use.


If you ever use kanthal and haven't tried 29 and prefer 28. Try 29. So much more responsive. You can get a ton of nichrome or kanthal inexpensively to Justify shipping.

** sidebar about wick they carry

Also. I wasn't a big believer that cotton wick varied too terribly much. I used to use KGD pads. I tried muji and puff. I tried sterile cotton balls unrolled. Settled with kgd. Then I started usin cotton bacon and loved it. Then I started using native wicks premium (or platinum) blend and it's head and shoulders above everything bt cotton bacon. I really took a very long time to Come around to paying for wick in smaller quantities. But you should know that one bag of cotton bacon lady's me months. I expect the same from the native wicks. I cut maybe four inches off the spool. It splits into five 2mm-2.5mm wicks. And I can use leftovers of those in various devices. So I'm getting up to ten wicks from a four inch section. You get a few feet. I isnt stand all these people are probably repackaging whatever cotton product but until I find their source I'm happy enough to pay $5-7 every couple of months for wick that's this good. It also has minimal break in like cotton bacon v2. I like cotton bacon in drippers and native wicks in everything else.

They have it here and if you're paying shipping try a bag if you haven't. I'll be surprised if you don't think it's better than whatever you're using now. I've run my own wicking tests in active use situations.

Their stainless is good too and not too expensive.

OHMSWEETOHM coupon code gets a pretty decent discount. Have a poke around.

I've tried and like

Stainless kanthal Clapton
Stainless stainless Clapton
28 and 29 gauge kanthal
316L stainless
Nichrome 80 (I don't typically like this wire. It theirs seems super clean)

I don't know if they carry twisted wire. I want to see if they have it can get twisted 30 or 32.

I asked if they'd consider carrying stainless 29. They're working on it.

Once again a huge post but I hope helpful n

 

[cats5365]

You don't do a thing through a website. Sounds like maybe spyware but it could be Windows being weird about directions. Provape had you doing what I suggested they hair new exactly where the issue was. It sounds like.

Let me know how the restore goes. I hope you went with a very current one from
Just before the install. Remember to install the app As administrator

I found the real restore tool on my PC and not the weird carp windows search wanted me to use. I had to go back to 7-13, but earlier today I ran my regular HD back-up onto an external drive. System restore showed that the provape software would be removed and it appears to be gone. I'm going to take a break tonight and see if I want to tackle it in the morning when the room isn't 85 degrees.

Thank you for helping me sort this out and pointing me in the right directions to get it fixed.

 

[ColoKaren]

Update on cc on a Nauti (stock coil, Radius says is 1.7ohm):
F7 is giving me a cool, more flavorful vape. Maybe 75% of the vapor, and also 50% of the flavor I get in watts mode. That's an improvement, so I'll keep dinking around to find the best setting for me.

 

[jwbnyc]

That's good, because I've never seen a BVC coil sit at 1.6ohm. They go immediately to 1.7ohm, and then 1.8ohm.

The 1.8ohm go 1.9-2.0ohm. Good to know they are still working on it.

 

[ColoKaren]

Lightening vapes has it. $11/25ft
Clapton Wire

Pay attention when you choose. K is kanthal. They have stainless wrapped stainless Clapton too but bear in mind that will have to be spaced and with a stainless core in 28 you're going to need 8 wraps to get to 1 ohm. At least. So if you don't have atomizers with a lot Of space the stainless stainless may be tough to use depending on your vaping style. For mouth to lung you'd want higher resistance than the direct ling builds I'm sure you know. Just bear in mind stainless stainless Clapton will hit spot badly in contacts. Here's a screen shot of the proper selection for what I'm using. Hopefully it's legible at this size. I don't know if you meant you want stainless wrapped kanthal or meant kanthal wrapped stainless. Using stainless as the wrap means you can't do contact coils. It wouldn't really be useful to have kanthal core and stainless wrap as it limits builds and doesn't work for temp control. Kanthal wrapped around stainless on the other hand is very useful and works for temp control.

Given the shipping price id recommend grabbing a big spool of inexpensive wire you know you use.


If you ever use kanthal and haven't tried 29 and prefer 28. Try 29. So much more responsive. You can get a ton of nichrome or kanthal inexpensively to Justify shipping.

** sidebar about wick they carry

Also. I wasn't a big believer that cotton wick varied too terribly much. I used to use KGD pads. I tried muji and puff. I tried sterile cotton balls unrolled. Settled with kgd. Then I started usin cotton bacon and loved it. Then I started using native wicks premium (or platinum) blend and it's head and shoulders above everything bt cotton bacon. I really took a very long time to Come around to paying for wick in smaller quantities. But you should know that one bag of cotton bacon lady's me months. I expect the same from the native wicks. I cut maybe four inches off the spool. It splits into five 2mm-2.5mm wicks. And I can use leftovers of those in various devices. So I'm getting up to ten wicks from a four inch section. You get a few feet. I isnt stand all these people are probably repackaging whatever cotton product but until I find their source I'm happy enough to pay $5-7 every couple of months for wick that's this good. It also has minimal break in like cotton bacon v2. I like cotton bacon in drippers and native wicks in everything else.

They have it here and if you're paying shipping try a bag if you haven't. I'll be surprised if you don't think it's better than whatever you're using now. I've run my own wicking tests in active use situations.

Their stainless is good too and not too expensive.

OHMSWEETOHM coupon code gets a pretty decent discount. Have a poke around.

I've tried and like

Stainless kanthal Clapton
Stainless stainless Clapton
28 and 29 gauge kanthal
316L stainless
Nichrome 80 (I don't typically like this wire. It theirs seems super clean)

I don't know if they carry twisted wire. I want to see if they have it can get twisted 30 or 32.

I asked if they'd consider carrying stainless 29. They're working on it.

Once again a huge post but I hope helpful n

Looks like you've put together my shopping list! I'm off to shop and burn up that coupon code as well... You rock, buddy... thank you so much!!

 

[JohnD0406]

Just had an MRI on my shoulder to see if I tore something in there too.

I've been MIA for the past couple months due to a shoulder surgery to fix a SLAP tear on the biceps tendon. Someone who had rotator cuff surgery as well as the procedure I had said the rotator cuff procedure was a walk in the park compared to this. I'm in physical therapy, on an 8-month road to full recovery. Had to be my right shoulder too, so I had to not only learn how to do everything one-handed, but with my left hand. At least I can type again, but not for too long without increasing discomfort.

 

[JohnD0406]

Just seen the email about the 60W radius. Where are the people that said that "Provape will never make a single 18650 device that goes that high"? I guess Provape is feeling the heat from the competitions.

I believe I was one of those... ProVape have abandoned the 50% rule, as 60W at a 3.6V cutoff will eat 17A of a 20A cell (like the Samsung INR shipped with the Radius). They must be really confident in their battery testing, but still, end-users could put a higher mAH, lower amp cell in there.

Of course, I had to pick one up (another Ghost White, of course - love the LED glow/bleed-through). I've been using my Procyon at 50W with the RBA in the Cleito tank lately (after beta testing the cc firmware). Guess I'll have to see what the going rate is on a used Radius and list it in the classies...

 

[AstroTurf]

I believe I was one of those... ProVape have abandoned the 50% rule, as 60W at a 3.6V cutoff will eat 17A of a 20A cell (like the Samsung INR shipped with the Radius). They must be really confident in their battery testing, but still, end-users could put a higher mAH, lower amp cell in there.

Of course, I had to pick one up (another Ghost White, of course - love the LED glow/bleed-through). I've been using my Procyon at 50W with the RBA in the Cleito tank lately (after beta testing the cc firmware). Guess I'll have to see what the going rate is on a used Radius and list it in the classies...

Sorry... Recalculate... Using the 12.5 amp limit.

 

[JohnD0406]

Sorry... Recalculate... Using the 12.5 amp limit.

That amp limit is for the atomizer, not the battery. As you already know, when discussing power drain at the battery, the resistance of the atomizer is irrelevant. Wattage at the atomizer is equal to the wattage at the battery, minus the device efficiency. At 98% efficiency, 60W, and a fully charged battery at 4.2V, it's drawing 14.58A from the battery - that's MINIMUM to achieve 60W. At a 3.6V cutoff, it's drawing 17.01A.

A 12.5A limit at the battery would prevent it from ever reaching 60W.

Recalculate

PS - 0.4ohms, 60W, at the atomizer, is 12.25A - you can see why they chose 12.5A as the limit.

 

[h00ligan]

I believe I was one of those... ProVape have abandoned the 50% rule, as 60W at a 3.6V cutoff will eat 17A of a 20A cell (like the Samsung INR shipped with the Radius). They must be really confident in their battery testing, but still, end-users could put a higher mAH, lower amp cell in there.

Of course, I had to pick one up (another Ghost White, of course - love the LED glow/bleed-through). I've been using my Procyon at 50W with the RBA in the Cleito tank lately (after beta testing the cc firmware). Guess I'll have to see what the going rate is on a used Radius and list it in the classies...

Sorry can you explain the ghost white ? I'm contemplating a white one. Is there a standard white and ghost white ? And what do ou mean by the led bleed through and such. I received my radius gratis and I don't know this product line options very well yet but as in shopping I'd appreciate your feedback on the white. As well as how your finish has held up if it's not the standard metal finish that comes with all the radius by default. So far my radius has been very durable. Much more than I thought it would be when I read it would be plastic.

Also I love the Leica inspired design.

 

[JohnD0406]

Sorry can you explain the ghost white ? I'm contemplating a white one. Is there a standard white and ghost white ? And what do ou mean by the led bleed through and such.

Unless I've missed something new, there is no white model. Ghost White is a translucent color that lets light through, so when you fire the Radius, you see whatever color your fire button is set to light up the inside of the Radius.

As well as how your finish has held up if it's not the standard metal finish that comes with all the radius by default. So far my radius has been very durable. Much more than I thought it would be when I read it would be plastic.

The metal on the Ghost White has no coating - it's bare metal, so it's held up very well - no signs of wear. I try to stay away from any printed, painted, anodized, or otherwise coated materials these days.

 

[jwbnyc]

Bog stock Ghostie ftw.

 

[access0denied]

That's good, because I've never seen a BVC coil sit at 1.6ohm. They go immediately to 1.7ohm, and then 1.8ohm.

The 1.8ohm go 1.9-2.0ohm. Good to know they are still working on it.

Well damn. I can't find ss wire locally for my kayfun. Threw my 1.8 ohm bvc coil my kubuki tank. Just throws errors in cc mode.

 

[BreSha6869]

Well damn. I can't find ss wire locally for my kayfun. Threw my 1.8 ohm bvc coil my kubuki tank. Just throws errors in cc mode.

Are you out of SS or just cant find it locally?

If you just can't get it, I have about 250 feet of 316l if you need a bit and if 26ga isn't too thick....