Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

[h00ligan]

I recently picked up a clone from 3f which came with five decks and a bell cap.

No leaking at all, but at the same time following every different wicking advice I could fine I can't get it wicking consistently and when I do get it wicked the flavor is nonexistent.

The clone itself seems well built, I'm shocked at how bad the fksvir is though. Just super dull. Any advice?

P.s. I'm planning on buying an authentic and wanted to try some other things aside from the kayfun 4 before I dropped $180

Usually clomes give a fair enough idea of what to expect with the typical flaws..I've never had a clone that assembled perfectly with no leaks but tasted awful and the authentic was just better in that way. Usually they're pretty close but clomes don't thread or leak or whatever.

So while i am all for supporting authentic engineers, im not going to spend close to $200 blind with no satisfaction guarantee.

So maybe they should take that away. If they build so,etching they think is that great. Offer a satisfaction guarantee so people take the chance rather than buying a clone and deciding the design sucks or finding a 1:1 that negates the need to buy authentic.

 

[chrisz]

I recently picked up a clone from 3f which came with five decks and a bell cap.

No leaking at all, but at the same time following every different wicking advice I could fine I can't get it wicking consistently and when I do get it wicked the flavor is nonexistent.

The clone itself seems well built, I'm shocked at how bad the fksvir is though. Just super dull. Any advice?


P.s. I'm planning on buying an authentic and wanted to try some other things aside from the kayfun 4 before I dropped $180

Usually clomes give a fair enough idea of what to expect with the typical flaws..I've never had a clone that assembled perfectly with no leaks but tasted awful and the authentic was just better in that way. Usually they're pretty close but clomes don't thread or leak or whatever.

So while i am all for supporting authentic engineers, im not going to spend close to $200 blind with no satisfaction guarantee.

So maybe they should take that away. If they build so,etching they think is that great. Offer a satisfaction guarantee so people take the chance rather than buying a clone and deciding the design sucks or finding a 1:1 that negates the need to buy authentic.

I don't have a clone, so I don't know what the differences may be. What deck are you building on? The squape is the easiest tank I've found, for building and wicking. At least with my w & d decks. I have a b deck, but haven't used it yet, & there were some folks having issues with it.
Yours is the first complaint I've seen with flavor, so that may be clone related.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

I've had 2 SQR clones. 1 was decent in flavor and somewhat leak free, the other was a horrible mess, liquid would pour out of the AFC no matter how much cotton I packed and regardless of which deck I used. So for the SQR, the decent clones are apparently not something you come across often.

That being said: Get the original, you know you want to

 

[tmcguffie]

I'm still rockin' my R and Rs, my drippers are languishing on my rack, unused. The R's are the best pieces of kit I own by far.
Sorry about the pic, won't show right side up for some reason

 

[nclay]

I recently picked up a clone from 3f which came with five decks and a bell cap.

No leaking at all, but at the same time following every different wicking advice I could fine I can't get it wicking consistently and when I do get it wicked the flavor is nonexistent.

The clone itself seems well built, I'm shocked at how bad the fksvir is though. Just super dull. Any advice?

P.s. I'm planning on buying an authentic and wanted to try some other things aside from the kayfun 4 before I dropped $180

Usually clomes give a fair enough idea of what to expect with the typical flaws..I've never had a clone that assembled perfectly with no leaks but tasted awful and the authentic was just better in that way. Usually they're pretty close but clomes don't thread or leak or whatever.

So while i am all for supporting authentic engineers, im not going to spend close to $200 blind with no satisfaction guarantee.

So maybe they should take that away. If they build so,etching they think is that great. Offer a satisfaction guarantee so people take the chance rather than buying a clone and deciding the design sucks or finding a 1:1 that negates the need to buy authentic.

The clone R i had seemed to work ok. It rarely leaked and the flavor was on par with a kayfun. My authentic squape rs is leaps and bounds better than the clone R, the airflow is much wider on its highest setting, and the build quality is insanely better. I was glad i dropped the $175 to purchase an authentic. The clone was something i used off and on, the authentic is something i pick up everyday, it really is that much better.

 

[Sptz]

I have this issue with my Rs and B deck.

Dropbox - Tuesday, Jul 28

This is just the beginning, if I keep vaping all day it ends up being a puddle there, I have no leaks whatsoever, it's vaping perfectly. I'm just wondering if the W deck would reduce this build up?

 

[drippaboi]

I have this issue with my Rs and B deck.

Dropbox - Tuesday, Jul 28

This is just the beginning, if I keep vaping all day it ends up being a puddle there, I have no leaks whatsoever, it's vaping perfectly. I'm just wondering if the W deck would reduce this build up?

Cronic problem with both B and W decks in both the SQR and the Rs for me, no matter the coil. Stainless DTs seem to help with it not getting sucked up during inhales (vs delrin or plastic) but if there is a cure other than wiping out the DT adapter with a napkin I haven't figured it out.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

I have this issue with my Rs and B deck.

Dropbox - Tuesday, Jul 28

This is just the beginning, if I keep vaping all day it ends up being a puddle there, I have no leaks whatsoever, it's vaping perfectly. I'm just wondering if the W deck would reduce this build up?

Yeah, happens to me too over time. I try to keep inhaling for a second after releasing the fire button, to prevent condensation from building up, that keeps some of it away, so you could try getting into that habit and see if that helps you too

 

[nclay]

I have this issue with my Rs and B deck.

Dropbox - Tuesday, Jul 28

This is just the beginning, if I keep vaping all day it ends up being a puddle there, I have no leaks whatsoever, it's vaping perfectly. I'm just wondering if the W deck would reduce this build up?

Im using the W deck and i get the same thing. I just stick a paper towel in there and wipe it out once in a while.

 

[Viluxia]

Hey guys, ive got a Squape RS with the B deck, now ive had a little trouble with it leaking, but i think thats me mainly, but what im wanting to know is there any Bell Cap that fits the RS, from a looks point of view that would make it look better.

Onto the B deck, im assuming that if it starts to leak i need to pack more cotton in there? Also is the RS really suited to NI200 coils, ive not had much luck so far.

 

[nclay]

I made some clapton wire earlier this week for RTAs. 28 gauge kanthal wrapped with 36 nichrome 80. Did a four wrap on my squape W deck, came out to 0.8Ω. Wow, tastes so good! I never really thought about using clapton in a tank atty.

 

[nevillebartos]

Onto the B deck, im assuming that if it starts to leak i need to pack more cotton in there? Also is the RS really suited to NI200 coils, ive not had much luck so far.

That's a tricky one. With a very full amount of fluffy cotton (big fat tails, and filling in all around, but not going higher than the air hole, I get awesome wicking, but last build I think I overdid it and it has leaked a couple times, so may have to dial it back and find a balance. For pretty much the whole time with the B I have used very fluffed cotton with no leaks, usually just a lesser amount. By fluffy I mean I peel off both outer layers and use the middle bit, once its through the coil I fluff it up more by hand and then place it in around the deck, avoiding packing it down as much as possible. I tried it with leaving the outer layers on and packing it in a bit, but it didn't wick well enough for me, I think I was hitting TC before 20 watts with that setup. The latest one I think can handle 35W with 75VG ruyan4, but I'm only running 25W day to day.

Basically, I've found better overall results with cotton very fluffy, but too much appears to lead to leaks. You definitely need to keep it below the air hole no matter what though, if it gets over there it'll drip down into it, the lower the less chance of leaks would be my guess. I also have a suspicion if the wicks holding too much and gets vibrated, like when in a car, it might drip out. I havn't seen that happen since I switched from the screw method to the jig thing, so maybe the smaller ID solved it, if that was even the issue to begin with.

 

[Freedom2Vape]

I lost my Squape R to my wife - who absolutely loves it. Haven't had any issues with leaks or anything else. I rewick about once a week or if my wife says it doesn't taste correct. I've put a new coil on it about once a month - running a 1.0 Ω coil, 5 wraps of 28g 2.5mm ID. Only one problem - she won't give it back .

 

[Sptz]

Onto the B deck, im assuming that if it starts to leak i need to pack more cotton in there? Also is the RS really suited to NI200 coils, ive not had much luck so far.

I'm definitely not feeling it regarding TC. Only reason for this is the adjustable pin, I have no idea how far to stick it out, it changes .1ohms every few turns. For TC you must have the exact resistance of the coil, that's why I'm contemplating going back to an Erlk for TC.

 

[Bhoot]

Guys...need some help. I have 2x full bases. 1x I have the W deck and works fine. 510 gets dirty but after a solid sonic clean ohms ready are stable. 2. Deck has a D dual coil deck installed. I have used quite a lot but suddenly it has stopped working. Cleaned the 510 pin, took D deck out and proper cleaned it. Even tried it single coil but simply not getting an ohm reading at all. Any advice?


Bhoot

 

[Freedom2Vape]

You might try unscrewing the 510 pin just a bit to make sure it is getting a connection?

 

[Bhoot]

You might try unscrewing the 510 pin just a bit to make sure it is getting a connection?

Freedom. First thing I tried. I cleaned the base like its new. Simply not happening. I think it's the 510 pin. Going order another 510 and see if that works. Kept the D deck as a treat for weekends.


Bhoot

 

[Sptz]

I vote for Stattqualm to release a fixed pin acessory, just one single pin you screw in until the max, and if you want it sticking out, just include a washer like Erlkonigin has. This would solve all issues.

 

[Bhoot]

I vote for Stattqualm to release a fixed pin acessory, just one single pin you screw in until the max, and if you want it sticking out, just include a washer like Erlkonigin has. This would solve all issues.

Sp. they will probably release a new tank revision to fix it rather than just a new pin. Apart from the pin issue the Squape is much more reliable than a Kayfun v4. I have 3x genuine v4's and gave 2 of them away to a friend. He loved them at first as a new vaper but after a few months when he was more experienced he had a few hours playing with my Squape and got one himself. The simplicity is great...now just wish it had a decent 510.


Bhoot

 

[nevillebartos]

I'm definitely not feeling it regarding TC. Only reason for this is the adjustable pin, I have no idea how far to stick it out, it changes .1ohms every few turns. For TC you must have the exact resistance of the coil, that's why I'm contemplating going back to an Erlk for TC.

I'd say you'd want it out as far as possible until the ohms stop dropping, with the pin connection you'll be looking for the minimum amount of resistance - the best connection possible, if using a spring loaded connector then loading it up should be our best bet. The coil should be the resistance 'bottleneck' allowing us to control ohms with type, gauge and length, anything reading higher than that coil isn't making proper contact.

Wire strands arn't a bad solution, to get that pin thread fitting very tight every time would require some pretty precise manufacturing, I think the issues we're seeing with the pins are that slight variation in production, some are tight, some are loose.