I opted for the "W" deck. Looks simple to build (crosses fingers). If the nano tank had the glass window I'd be happier 
Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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Having issues getting a proper build using the W deck. It seems that no matter how much cotton I stuff in the horizontal channels, It ends up flooding within minutes. It seems like lung hits are causing a vacuum to build up in the tank, and is essentially pulling juice out of the channels onto the deck, and into the chimney. I've yet to have any juice come out of the air flow, it all ends up in the chimney, and eventually in my mouth...
Any recommendations for resolving this issue?
My standard build is dual strand 28g twisted Kanthal at .8Ω.
Any recommendations for resolving this issue?
My standard build is dual strand 28g twisted Kanthal at .8Ω.
Could you take a picture the deck so we can see what your wick looks like?Having issues getting a proper build using the W deck. It seems that no matter how much cotton I stuff in the horizontal channels, It ends up flooding within minutes. It seems like lung hits are causing a vacuum to build up in the tank, and is essentially pulling juice out of the channels onto the deck, and into the chimney. I've yet to have any juice come out of the air flow, it all ends up in the chimney, and eventually in my mouth...
Any recommendations for resolving this issue?
My standard build is dual strand 28g twisted Kanthal at .8Ω.
Here's my first build I did yesterday on my new Squape. It's 28ga nickel and it's still performing great this morning. No flooding or dry hits. I'm pretty impressed with my first build. It usually takes me a time or two with a new tank. I just followed everyone's instructions from this thread. Thanks guys!
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I guess I should have said that it has an ID of 3mm and it's placed in the channel with the cotton filling the channel, but it isn't compressed at all. And I cut the cotton right next to the deck, and it just barely hangs over the sides, but not down the sides at all. If that makes since.
I usually do a 2.5 - 3mm coil legs up so the coil goes down in line with the channels but you can do it above like yours. Your problem is the wicks aren't filling up the channels and juice is probably flowing underneath the wick.
Fluff out the wicks in the channel and make sure they are filled (horizontal channels, no need to run wick down vertical channels).
The rest of the wick is fine resting above or on the deck, but those horizontal channels nerd to be filled.
Cutting the wick even with the deck is what most of us do too.
Look at the pic above yours if you want to see how most of do our coils in the SqR, although some people have done and liked the coil with legs facing down and all the way above the deck, but I think most of us get the best vape with the coil recessed in the deck, maybe the top slightly raised up and even with the top of the screws.
Tried stuffing the horizontal channels even tighter. Worked like a charm! Thank you!!!!
My first coil from yesterday was working great, but you know when you have something new, you want to try different builds on it. This is the easiest thing I've ever built on. This build is a spaced single strand 30ga nickel with a 3mm ID. The Squape makes working with Nickel so easy. I've tried this build in my other attis and was never successful. These build decks are awesome for attaching coils to, just throw your rod in there, tighten down your screws, and it doesn't move. It's the best RTA for nickel builds....at least I think.
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My Squape R with W deck finally arrived from Vaperev this morning. I had a very terrible clone in the past but it presented enough potential that I was certain I wanted the authentic. I love building this thing - it is just so fast and simple. This is easily my favorite RTA, edging out my authentic Aqua V2. I also have several Lemos and a Billow. I'll likely sell the Lemos and Billow to put towards the purchased of another SqR.
24 ga, 2.5mm, .41ohm, wicked with rayon (pre-trimming pic):
And here it is in light saber mode on my Workhorse:
24 ga, 2.5mm, .41ohm, wicked with rayon (pre-trimming pic):
And here it is in light saber mode on my Workhorse:
Mine just got delivered at home and Im stuck at work! Btw, just noticed that intaste has the bell cap on sale now. Ill enjoy the stock look first. Happy Friday!
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Yup.
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Found it! Thanks!
Doesn't seem like I can find the nano chimney sold separately from the Nano tank. I don't want a solid Nano tank but it looks like it's the only way to get the chimney unless someone knows of a source. Not sure I want to drop the ~$85 it would take to make the bell cap happen.
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Np bud! Oh missed that part...so the smaller chimney is required to use the bell. Ill worry about that later. In the meantime, I so want to leave work already so I could build the squape r lol!
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Yeah, they don't sell chimneys seperately I know I wanted an extra in case it ever got scratched or something.
The Kingtu nano kit does fit the authentic although it might be hard to find now.
I know I wanted an extra in case it ever got scratched or something.The Kingtu nano kit does fit the authentic although it might be hard to find now.
First build...26g 8 wraps on 2.5m came down to 0.9ohms...This beauty is tall!!! Lol! Vaping good so far. Flavor is spot on! Good vapor!
Edit: Kanthal wire, Rayon wick
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Edit: Kanthal wire, Rayon wick
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Hi squapers,
I have an original R and I've come to the impression the 510 connection is a bit "too short". In a nutshell, I have a VaporShark rdna40 that, despite the spring loaded center pin, doesn't seem to be able to report a solid and consistent resistance from my squape R, while I have no problems with e.g. a KF4, a LEMO and a nautilus mini.
I tried unscrewing the 510 center pin a bit to make it protrude, but while that makes it reach better for the mod's center pin, it also seems to loosen up the electrical connection with the atty too much so that things don't get much better.
Now, does anybody have had a similar experience or has any advice for e.g. a longer center pin screw or something similar? I can't really use it on my VaporShark at the moment :-(
I have an original R and I've come to the impression the 510 connection is a bit "too short". In a nutshell, I have a VaporShark rdna40 that, despite the spring loaded center pin, doesn't seem to be able to report a solid and consistent resistance from my squape R, while I have no problems with e.g. a KF4, a LEMO and a nautilus mini.
I tried unscrewing the 510 center pin a bit to make it protrude, but while that makes it reach better for the mod's center pin, it also seems to loosen up the electrical connection with the atty too much so that things don't get much better.
Now, does anybody have had a similar experience or has any advice for e.g. a longer center pin screw or something similar? I can't really use it on my VaporShark at the moment :-(
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