Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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Rikk

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Nice - Ya, I'm not 100% converted yet because I have three mods/atty's in heavy use through out the day and only one of them, my Flask does temp protection. But I've got me a new Hana that should be here next week so that will give me two mods that I can use nickel on. But I'm sure it will be a while before I give up on Kanthal all together because I have other mods that don't do nickel that I wanna use for awhile. But I'm getting there I guess.
 

Phone Guy

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You know, I think for the most part I've only used atty's with an adjustable 510 pins. So it might really bug me if I got an atty that didn't have it.

And man, sounds like you're going to have the best vape mail evar! I'd sure let you make something...... [emoji12] But it sounds like you already have your hands full with your family.... Lol
Man I can always do stuff for buddies! Anything you need, just shoot me a PM. If I can do it, I will!
 
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chia

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Hi Chia - it's not normal for me. I'm currently using my mini version right now and I blow thru a tank a day and I can seem to vape it dry with no leaking.

I hate to be one of those people that say I've never had it leak on me because I know that's not much help, but I've never had this thing leak on me. But I always use lots of cotton shaped like a bowtie in this tank and I think that may be part of the reason I never have any leaks. This wicking method really works for me.

On the first or second page of this thread, the member who first mentioned this method posted some photos that I found very helpful. How are you wicking?

My next thought would be o-rings maybe. Hopefully someone will chime in soon that's had a similar issue as you with a resolution.

Hi
Hey thanx.. I think my coil is set too low.. Pulled up till half the coil is showing, and now it's way better!

Thanx again ;)
 
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chia

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The SqR works fine with nickel.. So far I think most issues is with the KF4, probably too many parts connections to mess with the resistance reading.. But the gold plated spring seems to solve the problem.
Anyway with dna40 and nickel I try to build above 0.1 ohms.. 0.15 if possible. Seems to be more stable for me, else I get a lot of nasty ramp up..;(
 
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Rikk

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The SqR works fine with nickel.. So far I think most issues is with the KF4, probably too many parts connections to mess with the resistance reading.. But the gold plated spring seems to solve the problem.
Anyway with dna40 and nickel I try to build above 0.1 ohms.. 0.15 if possible. Seems to be more stable for me, else I get a lot of nasty ramp up..;(
I haven't tempted the K4 with nickel yet. When I get my new Hana next week I think I just may.

Actually, now that I have the experience I have with nickel builds (not claiming to be an expert ;)) I want to attempt some of the atty's I had failures with before. See if I fair any differently now.

Yup, I agree completely with the Squape being great with nickel. It's the main reason why I don't use or try any other atty's because it works so damn good. But having two in my future will open up more possibilities and more experiments.
 
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jazzvaper

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I haven't tempted the K4 with nickel yet. When I get my new Hana next week I think I just may.

Actually, now that I have the experience I have with nickel builds (not claiming to be an expert ;)) I want to attempt some of the atty's I had failures with before. See if I fair any differently now.

Yup, I agree completely with the Squape being great with nickel. It's the main reason why I don't use or try any other atty's because it works so damn good. But having two in my future will open up more possibilities and more experiments.

From the very first, Rikk, I've had no problem, at all, with the K4 and Nickel.

In fact, my K4's have never seen Kanthal. Neither, BTW, have my Origen or Marquis.

As I've said, I'm looking forward to the SquapeR(s) precisely because it's nickel friendly, which is to say it has solid connections and 510. You fans need to hurry Stattqualm up and get it released. ;)


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Rikk

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I gotta a little board today so I rebuilt my Squape. The build I had in was good, but I was outta juice so instead of refilling I rebuilt.

I'm currently loving 8 wraps of 29ga. I think having a little extra wire in there gives me a little warmer, moister vape over my 30ga wraps.

I been hitting it a couple hours and got board again so thought I'd post a picture of my new build. My wraps aren't pretty but they work so damn well. And the bowtie works amazing at keeping up with chain vaping ;)
17377e7a9d4ee63b815fc6f6715134f5.jpg
285c78393ae300b1aebd8c74e6bec2ad.jpg
 

Phone Guy

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I need to try titanium wire in my SqR. So far I'm having better (not perfect) results from the Ti wire vs the ni200.

The tempered ni200 doesn't affect heat right? Just easier to work with being less soft than annealed ni200 right. Am I understanding that correctly?
 

Phone Guy

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It's a wide piece of KGD with the outer skins removed. Wicks great for me.
That's what I do. KGD or muji (I have both, I see no difference except the muji pads are thinner which is better in most situations) and I peel that 'coarse' outer skin off each side to leave the fluffy stuff.
 
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Rikk

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I need to try titanium wire in my SqR. So far I'm having better (not perfect) results from the Ti wire vs the ni200.

The tempered ni200 doesn't affect heat right? Just easier to work with being less soft than annealed ni200 right. Am I understanding that correctly?
No it doesn't affect heat or anything like that. Just easier to work with, holds it shape better and is more stable.

I put a lot of cotton in there and I don't compress it first, but I do need to twist the cotton as I'm pulling it thru so it doesn't bunch up too much. Before I make the final cut to make it flush with the deck, I take a piece of wire and comb it thru the ends really quick to remove any clumps and to fluff it up, being careful not to remove much cotton the the process.

I'm still amazed at how well this thing wicks and keeps up when I'm chain vaping. But that's a testament to just how great the SqR is.
 
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Rikk

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That's what I do. KGD or muji (I have both, I see no difference except the muji pads are thinner which is better in most situations) and I peel that 'coarse' outer skin off each side to leave the fluffy stuff.
I have some muji I haven't tried yet. Got it free every time I ordered my tempered wire from StealthVape. I haven't used it because it was thinner, but now that you say it, it would probably be great in my micro coils.
 
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Rikk

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So if anybody cares (;)), when I filled my Squape earlier today, I did so with the new 6mg bottle of POET I bought and was so afraid to try after the last 6mg bottle I tried a couple days ago and hated. This one I can live with and TFG.

Lately when I'm home, especially if I'm sitting in front of the TV, I can chain vape the **** out of my atty's and I've been getting a major nic buz. I had to do something because I guess I wasn't cutting back....lol

I was a little worried that going from 12 to 6 all at once was going to be to much. And all because of the earlier bottle that had no throat hit and I thought I wasn't going to be able to enjoy it. But was hoping maybe after time I'd get use to it :(. So yesterday I went and bought 2 bottles of juice from the Beard Co. Both were the same juice but one was 6 and the other was 12 and I mixed them to hopefully get 9mg. I guess it works that way right? It seems to be pretty good and I think 9 will be a good number for a bit.

Yup, I must be board because now I'm rambling ;) Time to watch Orphan Black!
 

Rikk

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im getting spitback in my squape, its a 3mm coil deep in the well, using the w deck
If you look a few posts up, you'll see my coil is set deep in the well too. On occasion, I'll get spit back but it's very rare. Nothing that I would even think to mention it happens so few times. My thought would be, maybe not enough wicking material?

I've found over time the more cotton I have inside the coil the less spit back I get. So I keep my coils quite full.

What kind of wicking do you use and how much?
 
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Rikk

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Hi Rikk I was curious about how deep your coil was in the deck. Do you push it down in the center after installing it? Perhaps that helps with wicking a bit too as gravity would help the juice pool more in the part of the wick where the coil heats first.
I don't mean to push it down further, it just happens sometimes. [emoji15] When I pull the rod from the coil, the ID of the coil lines up perfectly with channels in the deck. But sometimes after I wick I may have to adjust or separate my wraps a bit, especially with the 29ga because of more wraps, that I noticed I end up pushing the coil down in the well more. It's not on purpose though.

I noticed this coil looked even deeper than it normally does. I must have really pushed this one down when I was working it. I try to keep it even with the channels and for the most part I think I do.

I've seen some have the coil lifted out of the well and I never do that. Mine is always in the well, flush with the top of the deck. Seems to work great that way.
 
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