Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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nevillebartos

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The video doesn't work?

Well had to rewick the b deck today...thought i got the right amount of cotton, low and behold it leaked again :( only once though as i did just raise the coil a little bit. So maybe that's why?

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

Basically you plug the internal air hole, then take a syringe or squeeze bottle, or something else you can jam into the outer hole, and give it a pulse of water. The water pressure pops the deck right out.

Maybe its your amount of cotton? I use a strip about 1 inch wide, and around half a pad length.
 

alistairs

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Hmm. Now my love affair with my new SQRs is on hold - I have the dreaded jumping resistance on my 510. Did anyone ever come up with a way to fix this other than stuffing wire in the hole for the pin? I haven't tried that yet, but I'm nervous of messing up the threads, and I can't quite visualize how to get the wire in there.

I keep thinking I should be able to wrap something around the pin, but I can't think what ...
 
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MKID

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Hmm. Now my love affair with my new SQRs is on hold - I have the dreaded jumping resistance on my 510. Did anyone ever come up with a way to fix this other than stuffing wire in the hole for the pin? I haven't tried that yet, but I'm nervous of messing up the threads, and I can't quite visualize how to get the wire in there.

I keep thinking I should be able to wrap something around the pin, but I can't think what ...
Stattqualms suggestion is to take the screw out and use an interdental brush to clean the threads in the base, and of course clean the screw threads. Reassemble and screw or unscrew the screw until you locate your desired resistance. It works, temporarily.
 

Sptz

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Hmm. Now my love affair with my new SQRs is on hold - I have the dreaded jumping resistance on my 510. Did anyone ever come up with a way to fix this other than stuffing wire in the hole for the pin? I haven't tried that yet, but I'm nervous of messing up the threads, and I can't quite visualize how to get the wire in there.

I keep thinking I should be able to wrap something around the pin, but I can't think what ...

I always thought the Squapes were excellent for TC due to having solid connection from top to bottom... So the Pin gives problems? I havent noticed anything yet... but that's bad for such an expensive product..
 

vakaion

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Yes the pin can cause problems, mine was one of those cases (wire trick fixed mine).
Any atty with an adjustable 510 pin like that can cause issues with TC/TP. Build-up in the threads, or even just usage wearing the 510 pin threads loose, makes the connection weak.
(Of course weaker and/or cheaper materials used in the construction of said attys make the issue more common).
 

TheotherSteveS

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@IanDVaypes posted the wire trick thing a while ago I think but i doint remeber if he posted pics of how to do it. Must admit, I am finding it hard to visualise how this works so any clues would be welcome from thos who tried it! Apologies if there are pics and I missed them :)
 

drippaboi

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Posted this somewhere earlier in this thread, not my video but looks like an excellent method for stuck deck removal



Works great! I've been trying to pull my W deck out of the SQR for a few weeks now. My syringe tip wasn't quite as snug in the video so my deck didn't just pop out, but it did loosen/lubricate things enough that a decent pull with bare fingers did the trick.

:thumb:
 

Sptz

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Something keeps happening lately when refilling my Rs that is super annoying.

I carry 10ml plastic bottles with me, they have a thin tip just like this one -> http://www.sz-worldsales.com/images/201209/goods_img/665_G_1346651392615.jpg

So I start filling it up, slowly on one side and you see loads of liquid forming all around the chimney, as it happens when you fully fill it up to the brim, and it doesn't go down. So I can't fill my tank basically, even if I blow on it it just spits back onto my face.... and if by blowing like 5 times it clears up, I start filling it and same thing happens again... Basically I can't fill the tank ....
 

LazyBulldogge

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Something keeps happening lately when refilling my Rs that is super annoying.

I carry 10ml plastic bottles with me, they have a thin tip just like this one -> http://www.sz-worldsales.com/images/201209/goods_img/665_G_1346651392615.jpg

So I start filling it up, slowly on one side and you see loads of liquid forming all around the chimney, as it happens when you fully fill it up to the brim, and it doesn't go down. So I can't fill my tank basically, even if I blow on it it just spits back onto my face.... and if by blowing like 5 times it clears up, I start filling it and same thing happens again... Basically I can't fill the tank ....

Happens to me every now and then as well, with that type of needle bottle, this is how I get around it:
1) When turning the tank around, prior to unscrewing the base, do it slowly, so that the liquid has a chance to travel to the top (now bottom) of the tank.
2) When filling, tilt the tank about 45 degrees, start filling and turn the tank upright slowly, as you fill it.

I hope it makes sense?
 

nevillebartos

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@IanDVaypes posted the wire trick thing a while ago I think but i doint remeber if he posted pics of how to do it. Must admit, I am finding it hard to visualise how this works so any clues would be welcome from thos who tried it! Apologies if there are pics and I missed them :)

Have not used it myself but there was talk of silicone wire being good for the job. I had assumed it was wrapped around the threads in the pin to create a very tight fit. There's a bunch of discussion on it somewhere earlier in this thread.
 

drippaboi

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Try dispensing the juice directly onto the threads while holding the tank at a slight angle to give the juice a chance to spread out before flowing past the chimney. Breaking the vacuum before opening is essential (turn over slowly and watch the juice "drop") and a quick wipe down of the chamber and threads before filling will allow it to fill faster.
 

TheotherSteveS

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Pretty annoying an atty this expensive has an issue like that :/
I agree Sptz. Having said that, this isnt a problem for non-TC and probably that is what most people still do and what the squape was designed for (and most other atty's I guess). I think we will start to see new TC-friendly designs emerging with low static resistance, rock solid connections and tight electron path through the device. In fact we probably need a new answer to the atty-mod interface. The 510 paradigm is way past its sell by date i think...
 

vakaion

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I agree Sptz. Having said that, this isnt a problem for non-TC and probably that is what most people still do and what the squape was designed for (and most other atty's I guess). I think we will start to see new TC-friendly designs emerging with low static resistance, rock solid connections and tight electron path through the device. In fact we probably need a new answer to the atty-mod interface. The 510 paradigm is way past its sell by date i think...

The basic, fixed, 510 connection design on atomizers has never been much of an issue with TC/TP. It's adjustable 510s with threads that loosen up over time etc that cause the issues (which is a pet peeve of mine when the pin is of a different metal to the atty it screws into lol). If the vape world would just standardize the atty pin as fixed, and mod end as adjustable (where there seem to be far less issues and far more room to work in good solutions) within certain tolerances it'd be all good.

But yeah, I'm sure there are better ways to do the job. :)
 

TheotherSteveS

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The basic, fixed, 510 connection design on atomizers has never been much of an issue with TC/TP. It's adjustable 510s with threads that loosen up over time etc that cause the issues (which is a pet peeve of mine when the pin is of a different metal to the atty it screws into lol). If the vape world would just standardize the atty pin as fixed, and mod end as adjustable (where there seem to be far less issues and far more room to work in good solutions) within certain tolerances it'd be all good.

But yeah, I'm sure there are better ways to do the job. :)

yup. Basically, adjustability at the atty end (and at the mod end really although there are slutions to that) is the enemy of connectivity!
 

nclay

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Well, I'm in - just picked up a Squape R(S) from Vapinart....I've been waiting to pull the trigger for awhile on this bad boy.
Ive been using a squape R clone for about 8 months and i always compared it to a kayfun 3.1 or similar antiquated RTA, I've used it off and on during that time as my main mouth to lung tank as i preferred it to the kayfun. I recently pulled the trigger on an authentic squape rs, all i can say is WOW. I can't believe how much better the airflow is! Not to mention quality.
 

Drumonron

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You know what made me decide to get the Squape R(S) authentic(besides this thread, of course)? The fact that, after they redesigned the squape to the smaller version, they designed it so, if you had the original it would be compatible and all you'd have to do is buy the redesigned part. I think that speaks volumes for the stattqualm company - I decided I wanted to invest in this company's product and so I now have the Squape coming.

That's my 2 cents...other designers/engineers should take the lesson from Stattqualm.

I mean, we should be building and evolving from the fundamentals. For instance, maybe in the future they come out with a top feeder option and maybe I'll be able to purchase that piece?

I'll be back after I receive the Squape R(S) and have had a few days with her.

Peace and Vape On Dudes!
 
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