Ok, here are the basics. Correct me if I am wrong.

[PatThePoltergiest]

Ok I am going to write down the basics of what I have found so far and you guys can correct or expand as you see the need. KK? K.

So,

Watts= heat generated from coil. VW devices change the power (volts) delivered from the battery to produce the desired amount of heat.

Volts= power delivered from battery. More volts means more power and more heat. VV devices require the user to vary the setting to achieve the desired heat (watts) for every coil.

Battery ohms= charge capacity from the battery. More ohms means more battery life and a longer charge time.

Atty ohms= resistance to current. More ohms means more resistance to current. Less power can pass through the coil at the same time. Low resistance means more power at once.

High resistance= (chevy cobalt) This means a high Ohm atty will heat properly with a smaller battery but will support a lower overall power and therefore will produce less heat and less flavor with less room for "tweeking", while also using less battery life and less ejuice at the same time.

Low resistance= (chevy camaro) A low ohm atty will allow more power to feed through to coil at any given time. This will produce more "heat saturation" and theoretically more flavor and vapor production. This should only be used on those devices that can handle the extra power needed to kick the coil up. More power means less battery life and more ejuice usage.

Mech mod= Unregulated device that offers a very simple cunstruction and no fussy electronics (or safeguards) to get in the way. These allow the advanced user more room for customization and can be used to power very low resistance atomizers achieving heavy flavorful hits. They require a working knowledge of electrical theory and more user input to work correctly. Not for newbies.

Disposable atty= Easy to use. Less likely to cause damage to mods. More expensive and have a shorter life span.

Rebuild able atty= Requires more skill to use. Very customizable. Cheaper to maintain and longer life span.

Exapmles:

Small mods (ego style)= Big enough to get a good vape but small enough to remain portable and user friendly. Very simple to use and maintain. VV but no VW usually. Should not be used with low resistance or rebuild able attys without extreme care. Battery life ranges from ok to very good.

Big mods (mech, vamo, mvp, ect)= Bigger with more battery life and the ability to power a larger variety of attys. Battery life ranges from good to OMG this thing never dies... Can potentially be used with low resistance and rebuild able attys but care should still be taken.

 

[radko]

The battery capacity is measured in milliamp hours or MaH

 

[Fittytigsic]

Ive been vaping for a year and I still don't fully understand volts to watts haha. The way I explain it to myself is volts really don't change, but depending on the resistance of the coil, the watts fluctuate. For instance, if I had a 1.2 ohm coil(running it on a mech mod with a regular 3.7 volt battery and fully charged) it should be running at about 4.1 volts and 14 watts. If I popped a .3 ohm atty on that same mech mod, I would still be putting out 4.1 volts and something around 56 watts. So yes, you are right. The wattage of something is basically the heat that the resistance wire gives off.

 

[jpwr25]

High resistance= (chevy cobalt) This means a high Ohm atty will heat properly with a smaller battery but will support a lower overall power and therefore will produce less heat and less flavor with less room for "tweeking", while also using less battery life and less ejuice at the same time.

Low resistance= (chevy camaro) A low ohm atty will allow more power to feed through to coil at any given time. This will produce more "heat saturation" and theoretically more flavor and vapor production. This should only be used on those devices that can handle the extra power needed to kick the coil up. More power means less battery life and more ejuice usage.

Kind of, although I think it just may be misuse of terminology. Low ohms will allow more current to flow through the coil at any given time (amperage) at the same voltage. Now, if you apply 3.7 volts to a 1.5 ohm coil and a 3.0 ohm coil, 2 things happen. First, the low ohm coil will draw twice the current (ameprage) and will also create twice the power (watts) of the high res coil. Because of the lower amperage draw of a higher resistance coil, you get MORE room for tweaking through the range of voltages on a VV device, especially ones with a lower amp cuttoff switch.

Play with this if you haven't yet, it should help you understand the relationship. I think you were maybe just using power interchangeably for current in the above, so pardon me if you already understand all this. Ohm's Law Calculator

 

[edyle]

Lord thats a lot of stuff :


One at a time:

Watts:

Watt is the unit of power, and if you check your utilities bill it might even mention kilowatthours or else it just says 'units' meaning kilowatthours.

The kilowatthour is a practical measure of ENERGY.

Power is energy per second.

 

[edyle]

Voltage is like electrical pressure or electrical force.

It's like a measure to the electrical potential ability of a device.

Household wall outlets are 115 volts ac.
Car battery is 12volts dc.

Lithium batteries are about 3 to 4 volts dc.

Many standard AA, AAA, C and D size batteries are 1.5 volts dc.

The higher the voltage, the more potential ability there is to do stuff.

 

[edyle]

battery ohms?

The batteries themselves have an internal resistance; in the case of lithium ion batteries it would probably be something like 0.5 ohm or less.

Car batteries also have very small internal resistances less than an ohm, and even less than a tenth of a ohm.

But I suspect it was really battery voltage that you really meant to think about.

The battery inself has some voltage, but in a regulated 'mod' or 'apv' electronic circuitry takes the power from the battery and outputs some other voltage - the output voltage.

So the battery might vary in voltage from 4 volts to 3.2 volts as it discharges with use, but the regulated mod outputs an almost constant voltage of 3.7 volts or whatever it is set for.

 

[edyle]

'atty ohms'

atty is slang/shortname for 'atomizer'; sometimes refering to the entire tank with coil and mouthpiece, sometimes referring only to the replaceable coil module.

Ohms is the unit of measuing resistance.

The resistance of a household 100 watt lightbulb is about 1 ohm

 

[edyle]

low resistance/ high resistance

For a particular voltage - say 3.7 volts, a high resistance coil will be less hot than a low resistance coil.

 

[edyle]

mech mod:

a simple container for a battery, with a connector for the ecig type tank or atomizer.

 

[PatThePoltergiest]

Battery ohms was a typo. I meant to say mah.

So for our purpose here, a low resistance atomizer simply produces a stronger current and thus more "heat". Not temperature heat but amount of heat sort of like the btu of a household furnace. Doesn't necessarily get hotter, but it throws more heat. But, in order to do this, we need a battery with enough capacity to support the extra current draw. Ok, so what then is the correct measurement to use in determining the appropriate battery to use? All I see is volts and mah when looking at battery specs.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2

 

[edyle]

Batteries and mods:

The typical eGo type battery comes with some electronics to timeout, detect a short, and flashing led codes; after a number of charges, the battery will be dead and you throw out the whole device.

A battery mod is a device for holding a replaceable battery; when the battery needs replacing, you replace the battery alone, not the whole device.

Typical battery size used in apv's is the 18650 which is 18mm diameter by 65mm lenth.

Less common is the much smaller 14500 battery, which I recently discovered is the AA battery!!

 

[jpwr25]

Battery ohms was a typo. I meant to say mah.

So for our purpose here, a low resistance atomizer simply produces a stronger current and thus more "heat". Not temperature heat but amount of heat sort of like the btu of a household furnace. Doesn't necessarily get hotter, but it throws more heat. But, in order to do this, we need a battery with enough capacity to support the extra current draw. Ok, so what then is the correct measurement to use in determining the appropriate battery to use? All I see is volts and mah when looking at battery specs.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2

The lower resistance of the coil will draw more amperage, thus producing more wattage and therefore more heat. The c rating is what you're looking for in a battery; this is the continuous amperage rating of the battery. To simplify which batteries have higher current capabilities, look here, the continuous amperage is in bold. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html

 

[Maestro]

Lower resistance means the electricity can flow through easier. Higher voltage pushes harder. That's amperage. But if the wire is too thin for that much amperage, it heats up. That's why you have fuses and circuit breakers in your house, to prevent too much amperage and the wires starting a fire. For coils, the wire is thin on purpose so that it gets hot. Higher resistance or less voltage reduces amperage. Lower resistance or higher voltage increases amperage. Wattage is just amperage times voltage.

 

[Moonswanni]

Big mods (mech, vamo, mvp, ect)= Bigger with more battery life and the ability to power a larger variety of attys. Battery life ranges from good to OMG this thing never dies... Can potentially be used with low resistance and rebuild able attys but care should still be taken.

Personally, I would put mechanical devices in a separate category. They are unregulated devices. There is no circuit board (not sure of the proper terminology) and no protection. With mechanical you have to know what your doing. The others are regulated devices and there is protection. If you do something silly/stupid it just gives you an error message. I'm getting lazy today, here is a thread about the difference.

 

[Moonswanni]

So much for being lazy. Here is the difference in pictures. The Provari (regulated device with circuit board) is like the MVP, although the Provari has removable batteries and the MVP doesn't. The Magneto (unregulated device w/o circuit board) is a mechanical mod. On a mechanical mod you cannot do variable voltage, variable power, unless you add a kick (type of circuit board). The power is dedicated by the battery and the charge left on the battery. A mechanical mod also has no LED, which is one reason they are sleek looking in my opinion. Mechanical are not necessary mass produced (hairy comparison I know due to clones) where regulated device almost always are. Hope that helps.

Mechanical / Magneto:




Provari

 

[edyle]

Battery ohms was a typo. I meant to say mah.

So for our purpose here, a low resistance atomizer simply produces a stronger current and thus more "heat". Not temperature heat but amount of heat sort of like the btu of a household furnace. Doesn't necessarily get hotter, but it throws more heat. But, in order to do this, we need a battery with enough capacity to support the extra current draw. Ok, so what then is the correct measurement to use in determining the appropriate battery to use? All I see is volts and mah when looking at battery specs.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2

Battery mAh:
A 2000 mAh battery will last you twice as long as a 1000 mAh battery before it needs recharging.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Might not be a bad time to mention amperage discharge rating. When getting into rebuild-able attys and mechs, one of the things to learn your way around is how much of an amp draw your battery can handle. Mah is a measurement of duration of a battery's charge while amp rating is a measurement of how much current your battery can deliver without exploding (without mentioning C ratings getting more technical than necessary and stuff).

OP, for the most part it sounds like you got it figured out. Just remember Volts/ohms=amps, and that dividing by a fraction is multiplying.

 

[edyle]

Battery ohms was a typo. I meant to say mah.

So for our purpose here, a low resistance atomizer simply produces a stronger current and thus more "heat". Not temperature heat but amount of heat sort of like the btu of a household furnace. Doesn't necessarily get hotter, but it throws more heat. But, in order to do this, we need a battery with enough capacity to support the extra current draw. Ok, so what then is the correct measurement to use in determining the appropriate battery to use? All I see is volts and mah when looking at battery specs.

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk 2

Battery and Resistance:

A battery is like a high pressure gas tank like what is used for cooking.
The voltage of the battery is like the pressure of the gas in the tank.
Resistance is like the valve on the stove: turn the valve open is like connecting a resistance to the battery.
Opening the valve a little is like high resistance.
Opening the valve wider is like lowering the resistance.
The wider you open the valve the faster the pressure drops; the lower the resistance, the faster the battery voltage drops.

 

[PatThePoltergiest]

For right now lets forget the whole amp idea. Lets assume that my battery can handle any amps I need to put on it.

With a 2.2ohm atomizer I find that my best performance is at about 3.8v. That comes to just over 7w using the calculator. So 7w is my target.

If we drop to a 1ohm atomizer, it takes about 2.7v to achieve the same 7w. So, by switching to a low resistance, I have dropped my voltage below the range of most regulated batteries. If I set my battery to the lowest possible setting (3.3v) then I have pushed my watts to the point that I am now getting a burnt taste using a 1ohm coil.

If I am using a device that needs to operate below 3.3v (like a mech mod that is discharged) then that would be fine. But, with a regulated device that cant drop below 3.3v, there is no benefit at all to going low ohm? What is the big deal with all this sub ohm talk then? A fully charged battery of any kind would produce a wattage that gives a burnt taste using a sub ohm coil if my logic is correct. There must be a variable I am missing.