Old battery question from an old timer ......

[anavidfan]

I was thinking of picking up a couple pairs of 18650 batteries.

I used to always order AW IMR batteries, but now there are so many that are longer lived and flat, so I was wondering, for my mechs, do I have to use IMR ?

Can I use the Panasonic NCR18650BE 3200mAh or LG 18650HG2 3000MAH 20A
I usually buy for my regulated devices. I just remember that all the high end mech makers always put that recommendation on their product description of "ONLY IMR" .....

I never build below .70 ish . I just want something not as expensive as the AW, flat topped and better mAH rating for my 2 18650 mechs.

I SHOULD know this, but its only lately that Im using 18650 mechs. Usually they are way to long, but these are real short for that size.

 

[TheRac25]

ohms law says:
4.2V on .7 ohms is 6 amps
and 4.2V @20A would be a .21 ohm load

 

[Train2]

The LGHG2 is a great battery. Unfortunately, they were so great that there started to be copies - fakes, all over the place. So here's a couple thoughts:

1- As ALWAYS, only buy from a reputable battery expert vendor, who can help prevent distributing any fakes. IMRBatteries, illumn, RTD, Lion Wholesale, Kidneypuncher - they've all gotten some battery business from me.

2 - Don't skimp and save a buck on batteries...get the best you can for your use. These are all only $5 or $6 each...

3 - I still love the LGHG2. I also love the Samsung 25R (there are a couple versions - blue and green, both good). And I also love the Samsung 30Q (pink). All I vape are single 18650 mechs, pretty much.

I was thinking of picking up a couple pairs of 18650 batteries.

I used to always order AW IMR batteries, but now there are so many that are longer lived and flat, so I was wondering, for my mechs, do I have to use IMR ?

Can I use the Panasonic NCR18650BE 3200mAh or LG 18650HG2 3000MAH 20A
I usually buy for my regulated devices. I just remember that all the high end mech makers always put that recommendation on their product description of "ONLY IMR" .....

I never build below .70 ish . I just want something not as expensive as the AW, flat topped and better mAH rating for my 2 18650 mechs.

I SHOULD know this, but its only lately that Im using 18650 mechs. Usually they are way to long, but these are real short for that size.

 

[anavidfan]

ohms law says:
4.2V on .7 ohms is 6 amps
and 4.2V @20A would be a .21 ohm load

I usually am right at .85 to 1.2 , very rare that I accidentally miscount my wraps and end up in the .70 zone. If I do, I usually pop it on the SX mini at about 14 watts.

Anything lower than .85 on a mech is too warm for me

PS. I always buy at RTD since I got my first "real" mod years ago.

 

[halfempty]

I only use 18650's and over the years I have used many different ones. Currently I use LG HG2, Sony VTC4 and VTC5, and Samsung 25R and 30Q. My favorites for anything up to 20A are the Samsung 30Q. They are 3000mah and seem to run cooler than anything else I use.

They have been tested by Mooch with excellent results, and RTD has them for about $5 - $6.

As far as the IMR thing goes, you'll have to read Mooch's blog to verify but IIRC IMR is older technology, INR is even newer and safer stuff. The old copy you remember was to differentiate from standard LiIon batteries which can't handle the power requirements usually demanded in vaping.

 

[bombastinator]

I only use 18650's and over the years I have used many different ones. Currently I use LG HG2, Sony VTC4 and VTC5, and Samsung 25R and 30Q. My favorites for anything up to 20A are the Samsung 30Q. They are 3000mah and seem to run cooler than anything else I use.

They have been tested by Mooch with excellent results, and RTD has them for about $5 - $6.

As far as the IMR thing goes, you'll have to read Mooch's blog to verify but IIRC IMR is older technology, INR is even newer and safer stuff. The old copy you remember was to differentiate from standard LiIon batteries which can't handle the power requirements usually demanded in vaping.

The advantage of IMR (the whole melting rather than blowing up thing) remains true. In a mech if you light up a battery all it does is turn into warm black mush instead of, say a rocket (no, really. There is video) or even worse a road flare that can't be put out.

 

[KenD]

The advantage of IMR (the whole melting rather than blowing up thing) remains true. In a mech if you light up a battery all it does is turn into warm black mush instead of, say a rocket (no, really. There is video) or even worse a road flare that can't be put out.

Note that basically all the batteries we use are hybrid chemistry rather than true IMR. That's been the case for a very long time.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Spirometry]

IMR, ICR and INR are not battery chemistries. They are the first three letters of a Samsung model number.

So if you had a Sony cell you wouldn't have a IMR or INR, but the cell may be of a similar chemistry to the Samsung.

The model number of Samsung cells do give some indication of the chemistry they are using. So in the modern INR18650-30Q the letter N would seem to indicate that it contains nickel. The actual chemistry of the cell is NCA which is an abbreviation for Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide (LiNiCoAlO2)

 

[bombastinator]

Note that basically all the batteries we use are hybrid chemistry rather than true IMR. That's been the case for a very long time.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

Define "we". True imr are still available. I personally don't use imr any more because I don't use mechanicals anymore myself. The OP apparently does though. Afaik the only chemistry with really no major potential for serious injury if a battery is drastically overheated remains Imr. This kind of thing can happen with mechanicals because the button is literally just a switch and there are no protections. I've melted two 18390s myself in an old totally unprotected smok pipe mod, so I can attest to hot black goop being the only result.

 

[bombastinator]

I personally think there's very little reason to use a mech if one has a choice. They're hard to build for because their voltage isn't consistent, plus there are the safety issues. YMMV of course. And there is nothing more compact than a mech

 

[bombastinator]

each battery chemistry has advantages and disadvantages. The ones that hold a lot of ma often can't discharge fast enough to keep up with a sub ohm mechanical, or are reactive enough to explode or rocket if overheated.

Further reading is available here: Types of Lithium-ion Batteries – Battery University

My personal solution was to move on to an eleaf aster 75w VV mod and quit worrying about battery chemistry

 

[KenD]

Define "we". True imr are still available. I personally don't use imr any more because I don't use mechanicals anymore myself. The OP apparently does though. Afaik the only chemistry with really no major potential for serious injury if a battery is drastically overheated remains Imr. This kind of thing can happen with mechanicals because the button is literally just a switch and there are no protections. I've melted two 18390s myself in an old totally unprotected smok pipe mod, so I can attest to hot black goop being the only result.

Which batteries are imr?

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[anavidfan]

Which batteries are imr?

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

AW IMR from RTD . There are the purple EFfests too. Those are the ones I use all the time.
Now I kinda wish I had stuck to the AW, all this talk of melting vs boom.

Guess like all things in life, Im a dinosaur.
I prefer manual transmission, and keeping my car with as little electronics too.
I like to read and collect books and vinyl and actual "things" , I could go on, but dont worry I wont

 

[KenD]

AW IMR from RTD . There are the purple EFfests too. Those are the ones I use all the time.
Now I kinda wish I had stuck to the AW, all this talk of melting vs boom.

Guess like all things in life, Im a dinosaur.
I prefer manual transmission, and keeping my car with as little electronics too.
I like to read and collect books and vinyl and actual "things" , I could go on, but dont worry I wont

I wouldn't be so sure those are actually IMRs. The Efests certainly aren't (they're rewraps, not of IMR batteries). It's very common for rewrappers to use "IMR" on their cells although they're nothing of the sort.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[bombastinator]

Which batteries are imr?

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

IMR chemistry batteries (vs apparently IMRbrand batteries) are high drain low amperage and mostly important if you use a mechanical mod for power.

What exactly does "IMR" mean?

 

[KenD]

IMR chemistry batteries (vs apparently IMRbrand batteries) are high drain low amperage and mostly important if you use a mechanical mod for power.

What exactly does "IMR" mean?

I know what IMR chemistry is. I was asking which batteries used today are actually IMR. Pretty much all of the popular batteries today are hybrid chemistry (pretty much as safe as IMR, won't vent as violently as ICRs), although it's very common for rewraps to include "IMR" on the wrapper although they aren't actually IMR chemistry.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[bombastinator]

I know what IMR chemistry is. I was asking which batteries used today are actually IMR. Pretty much all of the popular batteries today are hybrid chemistry (pretty much as safe as IMR, won't vent as violently as ICRs), although it's very common for rewraps to include "IMR" on the wrapper although they aren't actually IMR chemistry.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

Check the label the chemistry should be in the code. There's a whole forum section just on batteries that will have better information than me. My information was that a lot of the hybrid chemistries that are safer also aren't high drain so they cause different problems. Technology keeps moving though.

 

[KenD]

Check the label the chemistry should be in the code. There's a whole forum section just on batteries that will have better information than me. My information was that a lot of the hybrid chemistries that are safer also aren't high drain so they cause different problems. Technology keeps moving though.

That would simply be the model identifier. Hybrids commonly are the best of both worlds, a balance of high drain and high capacity. The Samsung 25r and Sony vtc5 are lithium manganese nickel, LG hb6 are lithium manganese oxide (IMR).

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[bombastinator]

That would simply be the model identifier. Hybrids commonly are the best of both worlds, a balance of high drain and high capacity. The Samsung 25r and Sony vtc5 are lithium manganese nickel, LG hb6 are lithium manganese oxide (IMR).

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

....yyesss... what's your point?

 

[KenD]

....yyesss... what's your point?

That you can't simply check the label to know the chemistry, that IMRs are actually rare, and that there's not much of a difference in safety between IMRs and good hybrid batteries (no problem using cells such as the Samsung 25r in mechs, and the Sony vtc5a is in fact one of the best batteries to use in mechs).

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk