Optimal mesh dimensions, wire size and wraps for specific devices

[the ob]

I thought I would start a thread where everyone could list what they thought was the optimal mesh dimensions, wire gauge and wraps for the devices we know and love.

Each person could list the mesh number they are using and then the dimensions of the mesh they are cutting. Then you could list the wire gauge and wraps as well.

It might help to make a list and copy and paste. But I am not a dictator, so any way you want to do it is cool with me

 

[MikeE3]

I get this started, though I'm not claiming this is optimal, just my 1st experience w/ a 'fat' wick and the same # of wraps with different wire gauge.

Atty: ZAP

mesh: #500
size: 100mm x 37mm
finished size: just under 3mm
wick hole w/o insulator: .128 inches / 3.25 mm
wire: Kanthal A1 32 awq
wraps: 4/5
ohms: 2.6

mesh: #500
size: 100mm x 37mm
finished size: just under 3mm
wick hole w/o insulator: .128 inches / 3.25 mm
wire: Kanthal A1 30 awq
wraps: 4/5
ohms: 1.8

Wicking is superior to a stock 15mm/#400 wick. Can't get a dry hit for trying. Only draw back is for both the 30 and 32 awg coils I need to increase voltage significantly to get decent vapor production. On a 'skinny' wick at 2.5Ω I'm happy vaping at 4.0-4.2volts and at 1.8Ω 3.8-4.0 volts. With this wick at 2.6Ωs, I'm set at 5.0-5.2 volts and for the 1.8Ωs I'm vaping at 4.8-5.0Ωs. Not sure this is the most efficient use of my battery, I thinking I'm wasting volts/watts/amps heating the large wick. I'm thinking of dropping back to ~60mm to see how that works.

 

[Leothwyn]

Subscribing. Hopefully someone will have opinions on DUDs. So far all I've tried is one of the stock wicks that came with it (#400?, about 28mm wide), and then both of the stock wicks rolled together. Both of them together definitely worked better, but I'm hoping that I get get it even better when I get my coop #500.

 

[the ob]

MikeE3,

thanks for the start. Hopefully others will chime in too!

 

[emonty]

These are my good setups for now. It might change as I like to experiment

For all setups I use #500 mesh and only A1 Kanthal

Orion V 2.1

60 mm x 35 mm with 6/7 wraps 28 AWG ~1.1 ohm


Hellfire Mini & Mega:

45 mm x 40 mm with 4/5 wraps 30 AWG, ~1.1 ohm


Cobra TI 3 ml version

60 mm x 40 mm 5/6 wraps 30 AWG ~1.5 ohm

 

[gdeal]

Mike E3 - great format. The ob, here is my current set up that is working very well.

Atty: Dud

mesh: #500
size: 70mm x 37mm
finished size: 2.2mm (calculated)
wick hole: 2.5MM
wire: Kanthal A1 28g
wraps: 11/12
ohms: 2.2

Wick is solid, no center hole. The long coil and 28g needs a bit of heat up time, so this is better for a chain vape session. (This is not instant on, then take a toot). Wicking starts out good and improves greatly as the ss mesh and atty heats up after 3 to 4 full length pulls. It gets really good to outstanding when I have it percolating after 5 minutes. I start the heat-up process at about 4.2 volts and then adjust up to 4.6 volts.This where I usually stay at. I can push it to 5.2 volts, but then the wick starts really popping. I then have to slow down my pace to prevent a wick "dry-out" situation. (Leothwyn, sorry I do not have a comparison for this set up with #400) My 2.2 wick size was calculated per PV Apps http://tomcatt2.com/pvapps.html and confirmed by inserting a piece of 28g between the wick and the wick hole. (I need to get a better caliper)

 

[MikeE3]

Thanks gdeal - it's the info I look for when I read folks post about coming up w/ their ideal wick. With the number of diff types of atty's and wide variation of wick diameters, you almost need all the details to duplicate/understand what someone else is doing. And - I rarely see folks talk about the need for more 'power' or 'pre-heating' the 'fat/coil' wicks. Until someone pointed me to the 'watts don't matter' thread I thought I was doing something wrong w/ my setups. I was amazed how much I had to raise the voltage just to get the coil to glow when I 1st put it together.

 

[asdaq]

Nice to get the info in a concise list. Guys, it would be helpful to list also the size of the wick hole in the device. 'just under 2.2mm' suggests that is what the hole size is too, but 'just over x' starts to get fuzzy.

 

[MikeE3]

Nice to get the info in a concise list. Guys, it would be helpful to list also the size of the wick hole in the device. 'just under 2.2mm' suggests that is what the hole size is too, but 'just over x' starts to get fuzzy.

Sounds good.

Here's what I measured the ZAP. (edited my original post)

Wick hole w/o insulator: .128 inches / 3.25 mm
Wick hole w/ insulator: .093 inches / 2.4 mm

 

[thejager]

great thread

 

[overall]

DID Standard
#500 mesh
35 x 70mm.
Solid wick
Jack frost outer edge only ....rest unoxidized
4/3 wraps 30awg kanthal
1.3 ohms
Vape at 3.7 volts

DID mini
Solid wick
Jack frost outer edge only ....rest unoxidized
4/3 wraps 32awg kanthal
1.6 ohms
Vape at 3.7 volts

Katana (drilled out wick hole)
#500 mesh
40 x 70mm
Solid wick
3/4 wrap 30awg

Orion v2.1
#500 mesh
35 x 70mm
Solid wick
3/4 wrap 30awg

Z atty pro
Tossed out the insulator
500 mesh
40 x 80mm
Solid wick
4/3 32awg
1.7 ohms vaped at 4.2 volts

 

[MikeE3]

(I need to get a better caliper)

For hole sizes I use numbered drill bits as go/no-go guages. For wick diameter I use a number drill bit gauge. No fancy-smancy calipers or micrometers.

 

[yankeebobo]

Now THIS is the thread to subscribe to!

 

[studiovap]

DID Standard No.1 Son.( Brass nuts & center post)
Wickhole:3.5mm
#500 mesh, (Quick allover Jack frost, then rolled, torched quenched 2-3 times, then oxidizes with vertical juiceburns 2-3 times)
Starting mesh size: 37 x 110mm.
Solid wick rolled to 3.3-3.4mm(not as tight as I can roll it though, slightly "spongy" rather than solid as a rock)
6/7 wraps 28awg nichrome
0.9 ohms
Vaped from 4.2 down to 3.6 volts or 19.6 - 14.4 Watts on mechanical mod (Paps V2 18650 & 18350)
Adjustable tank breather screw one turn out from fully closed(could probably close it right up , but still experimenting),no leaks, just minimal seepage when super hot from chain vaping and laying on side for 15mins)

DID Standard No.2 Son (SS nuts & center post)
Wickhole:3.5mm
#500 mesh, (Quick allover Jack frost, then rolled, torched quenched 2-3 times, then oxidizes with vertical juice burns 2-3 times)
Starting mesh size: 37 x 85mm.
20g center hole (around 1mm) wick rolled to 3.3-3.4mm(not as tight as I can roll it though, slightly "spongy" rather than solid as a rock)
3/4 wraps 32awg kanthal
1.7 ohms
Vaped at 9-12 Watts on Zmax (true watts closer to =10-12watts)
Adjustable tank breather screw half a turn out from fully closed(again could probably close it right up , but still experimenting),no leaks..

Will post more data next time I have to rebuild my other gennnys.

 

[asdaq]

14g center hole wick rolled to 3.3-3.4mm(not as tight as I can roll it though, slightly "spongy" rather than solid as a rock)

Studiovap, you rolled your wick on a 14G needle? That has a 2.1mm OD, sounds like it would get leaky.

Thanks for the hole sizes guys, with such a variety of devices present now it is near impossible to keep track. Has no one got a classic 2mm hole anymore?

 

[studiovap]

Studiovap, you rolled your wick on a 14G needle? That has a 2.1mm OD, sounds like it would get leaky.

Thanks for the hole sizes guys, with such a variety of devices present now it is near impossible to keep track. Has no one got a classic 2mm hole anymore?

Well spotted asdaq I actually rolled it on what I think a 18g filling needle, but by the time it was sized for the hole it was a little smaller 20g maybe that's around 1mm, but not 14g as you pointed out I have corrected my post thanks to your vigilance.

 

[asdaq]

I'm a stickler when it comes to needles

I was just worried as I could fit my thin wick inside of yours if that were the case and as a standalone that would be one megastraw of volcanic splatter. Or not if the top were pinched shut, then it would be a serious column of juice inside.

 

[jun0felix]

Orion V2.1: 70mm x 30mm #500 mesh

the hex key that comes with the DID fits right through the Orion's mesh hole. this hex key is 2.5mm. i use it also to wrap the Kanthal (29 AWG A1) to prepare the coil. the same key does not work for the DID itself, it's hole is smaller.

DID: 60mm x 45mm #500 mesh

i had the best result when i rolled the mesh without a help (e.g. needle), adding some liquid to it. and i always boil the mesh in water for 5 minutes to clean it before i use it.

 

[ChrisEU]

NGP Touch:
#500 mesh, 37 length x 75mm width, Kanthal A AWG 29, 6 wraps @ 1.3 Ohms

This setup is able to wick Boba's Bounty vertically which is quite impressive, as that stuff is barely liquid.

 

[ormandj]

DID-clone, stock mesh (325/400, no clue), 28mm and rolled by hand, then cut to length of top post when installed. I oxidize before rolling and after rolling using a butane torch. I remove the wick (don't skip this step, you'll get shorts), wrap it with 30awg nichrome (which has been torched, as well) to make 8 coils. I then install the wick, bolt up the wires, and go to town. When dry, all coils light up immediately and evenly.

1.8 ohms, so works great on fixed voltage and variable voltage devices, though at 3.2 volts you're still at 5.69 watts, so you're not going to get really low wattage vaping if that's what you're after. You could step up to 32awg nichrome for higher resistance if that's what you wanted.

Tons of vapor production, you cannot chain vape enough to cause a dry hit, great flavor. I have 635 mesh on the way, and I may experiment with 32awg nichrome as even at 3.2V, with some liquids, it's too strong for me (no burned taste, the throat hit is just more than I like). You do not have to hold the unit horizontal, it works fine vertical. I do leave the fill hole screw out, but haven't tried with it in. Might work just fine (another experiment for another day).