What part is the ground ring on the switch. And why would it not work with 3 different used but workable switches and now you have me scared, are you hinting that Pailpoe is not selling switches anymore?
Orion V2 roll call
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What part is the ground ring on the switch. And why would it not work with 3 different used but workable switches and now you have me scared, are you hinting that Pailpoe is not selling switches anymore?
I have no idea if Pailpoe is still selling switches, I haven't contacted him in 8 months. If I lose another switch, I am building my own.
The part I am talking about is on the pole side of the switch, around the edge of the PCB. If that is not making good contact it will not work right. However, I have found that when my switches went bad, if I put a battery in backwards, they would still fire, which happens wether the switch is good or bad. It is not an indicator.
The part I am talking about is on the pole side of the switch, around the edge of the PCB. If that is not making good contact it will not work right. However, I have found that when my switches went bad, if I put a battery in backwards, they would still fire, which happens wether the switch is good or bad. It is not an indicator.
So the pole with the threads on top of it and the bottom part of the switch needs to be connected tightly to the switch. I know it is not loose but I haven't checked if the pole is making connection to the switch in that area. Am I understanding what your saying or am I way off?
You are way off. I think.
Look at a switch. On the side where the pole goes up through the tank, look at the PCB. On the outer edge of the PCB is a run of solder almost all the way around. That is what I am talking about. It must make good contact up inside of Orion on the ledge when it is installed.
Look at a switch. On the side where the pole goes up through the tank, look at the PCB. On the outer edge of the PCB is a run of solder almost all the way around. That is what I am talking about. It must make good contact up inside of Orion on the ledge when it is installed.
That's what I originally thought but I thought it had to be more complex than that. I am at my mom's house with my Provari so I can't check right now but I will when I get home. What would cause it to not touch the inner side of the Orion? Would it be wear and tear from taking the switch out too much? I know for a fact when I set it up before I came to my mom's house the switch fits inside of the Orion very snug and is not loose so based on that I would think it should be touching. Again can you explain in laymen terms how you can fix this issue because I am electronic illeterate and I don't even know what PCB stands for but I know what you are reffering to when you say it. I got a hold Pailpoe and he has switches to sell, I just have to wait til the 3rd to place an order.
Good to hear he has switches to sell!!! I'd get two.
Yes, it wears, from removal/replacement or just doesn't make good contact due to contamination inside the Orion. I fixed one once by adding solder to the ring on the PCB. So wouldn't suggest it if you are not confident, but it is already broke, It couldn't get much worse
Yes, it wears, from removal/replacement or just doesn't make good contact due to contamination inside the Orion. I fixed one once by adding solder to the ring on the PCB. So wouldn't suggest it if you are not confident, but it is already broke, It couldn't get much worse
Good to hear he has switches to sell!!! I'd get two.
Yes, it wears, from removal/replacement or just doesn't make good contact due to contamination inside the Orion. I fixed one once by adding solder to the ring on the PCB. So wouldn't suggest it if you are not confident, but it is already broke, It couldn't get much worse
true true...I am going to get 2 on the 3rd coming up and then another 2 the next month so I have a stock pile I think my switches are ruined because I have a bad habbit of over filling the tank and not checking to see if the liquid hit the switch so after blaming ever other aspect and trying every secnerio I just think all my switches have had juice leak on them then dry so when I take them apart they aren't wet with juice but the damage was already been done. Now I'm going to be on top of keeping the switches in tip top shape because a provari even with the best carto can't compare to when my Orion v2.1 is hitting like a beast. I need to try that cable wire from Mc Master Mar as well so I don't have to make wicks anymore. Anyone know what width to get so it will it in the wick hole? And I imagine you need wire cutters as well to cut the wire so i will be buying those as well.
I think you want the 1.5mm or 1/16" for the Orion I believe. Not sure TBH.
When you put your new switch in, leave the bottom tube off, put a finger over the switch and blow or suck into the battery tube. It should hold the pressure/suction. If it leaks down, then you will have eliquid leakage. I always check my batt tube for signs of leakage.
When you put your new switch in, leave the bottom tube off, put a finger over the switch and blow or suck into the battery tube. It should hold the pressure/suction. If it leaks down, then you will have eliquid leakage. I always check my batt tube for signs of leakage.
If i do that and have signs of leakage then i have to self modifiy the switch because it's kinda considered defective then? Or could it be the tank o rings also.
I am not sure I understand your first sentence.
If you are saying modifying an already not working/broken switch… it's broke, who cares what you do to it.
In my previous post (#3668) I am referring to leaving the bottom battery tube off and doing a test to make sure my switch is sealed from leaking is all. No modifying of the switch. If you get a new switch, no need to modify it, other then ensuring a good seal up top under the shoulder washer.
When I install the switch, I seal the positive pole under the nylon shoulder washer with an extra little o-ring, and silicon sealant. Also, I watch for leakage that could be coming from air hole or tank, and getting into through the switch button.
Things can get lost in communication. Plus looks like you are a Marine, and I am retired Sailor, so we talk different Maybe PM or Sype would be better?
If you are saying modifying an already not working/broken switch… it's broke, who cares what you do to it.
In my previous post (#3668) I am referring to leaving the bottom battery tube off and doing a test to make sure my switch is sealed from leaking is all. No modifying of the switch. If you get a new switch, no need to modify it, other then ensuring a good seal up top under the shoulder washer.
When I install the switch, I seal the positive pole under the nylon shoulder washer with an extra little o-ring, and silicon sealant. Also, I watch for leakage that could be coming from air hole or tank, and getting into through the switch button.
Things can get lost in communication. Plus looks like you are a Marine, and I am retired Sailor, so we talk different
Maybe PM or Sype would be better?
Oh no, I am not retired Marines. I just like the avatar. I did score in the 97% on the ASVAB test in highschool and the US AMY wanted me badly, they haunted me down from my house to school to my job at taco bell but for some reason I was not interested and probably one of my biggest mistakes in life was not joning. I'm just a 36 year old that is electronic incompetent. lol. How long after you blow on the switch before you know you have a tight seal or see the juice leak on to the switch.
Thanks for all your responses, all though having some trouble understanding they still have been a great help once I finally understand what you are saying to me.
Thanks for all your responses, all though having some trouble understanding they still have been a great help once I finally understand what you are saying to me.
Hey Guys, how are you contacting Pailpoe for replacement switches? I would love to get a couple of spare switches for my Orions.
VaporWall I always like to PM him to let him know I want to buy switches first to see if he has any or out o town, etc... then he will give you the answer and his paypal address and instructions.
I need to know the width of the SS 7x19 that will fit inside the Orion hole. Can someone give me the exact width to order or is the 304 7x7 better than the 7x19? Either way I need to know the width to I don't buy some SS cable that's to big. Appreciate the help.
Thanks for the info on Pailpoe.
Here's what I use for cable. Fits into my Orion with no modification other than cutting to length.
5 64" 2mm 7x19 Stainless Steel T316 Cable Wire Rope 25' | eBay
What is this thing that came with my Orion v2.1 when I ordered it off Mod Trader on Facebook a long time ago. It screws perfectly on the switch where the spring and washers plus m nuts should go but it serves no purpose as it has no way to connect the wire too in order to make a connection.
It seems to be a center post but in order for it to work you would have to take off the plastic piece that goes first and the nut that goes next (those are the two things that go in first before the spring then washers and finally m nut. I'm afraid to try it because I don't know if that plastic piece is what is keeping the switch from burning out. Does this make sense to anyone? Anyone know what this is or how to use it? Does it even come with the Orion v2.1 or did the guy I bought it from just added it from another device, etc...
It seems to be a center post but in order for it to work you would have to take off the plastic piece that goes first and the nut that goes next (those are the two things that go in first before the spring then washers and finally m nut. I'm afraid to try it because I don't know if that plastic piece is what is keeping the switch from burning out. Does this make sense to anyone? Anyone know what this is or how to use it? Does it even come with the Orion v2.1 or did the guy I bought it from just added it from another device, etc...
@ 'Desiderata': It didn't come w/ my V2.1 but he added them for later units. I'm 99% sure it's an option to have a solid center post, otherwise, to replace the spring.
Let someone correct or confirm that.
Let someone correct or confirm that.
Well the problem is when you screw it on it leaves no room to add a m-nut on top to wrap a wire around. The only way it works is if you take out the plastic piece that goes on first when you are putting a switch on and then the m nut that keeps the plastic piece in place.
What I'm worried about is if I remove the plastic piece (as that leaves enough room to add a m-nut on top of the center post I posted a picture of to wrap the wire around) then it might short out my switch because I don't know if that plastic piece is there to protect the switch from metal on metal contact or if it's just there to keep the switch from wiggiling around. I know the switch has that black protective coating in between the switch itself and the top of the switch where it is riveted for things to be screwed on. But I never seen a video or a comment on using that center post. The center post will not stop the switch from wiggiling around like that plastic piece does is another concern as it doesn't screw down far enough.
I might give it a try if I can get some confirmation on my concerns. Because my Orion and I have a love/hate relationship. I always get hot spots no matter what I try but I'm not ready to give up on this mod just yet.
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