Overheating Mod

[DCFC]

Hi,

Recently I have been vaping using the Cool Fire 4 Mod with the standard iSub tank and with iSub coils 0.5 ohm. I have had no problems vaping like this however today I decided to 'upgrade' to the APEX 5ml tank and the new Innokin clapton coils.

I learnt that with claption coils you must vape between 30-70 watts (I normally vape between 15-20) so I have just been trying the new tank and coil out on 35 watts. Within the first 5 hits I realised that the cool fire 4 mod was overheating. This has never happened before and it made me worried to carry on vaping.

Is vaping with the APEX 5 using clapton coils on 35 watts too much for my cool fire 4 mod?
Is it normal to overheat like this?

If so I dont mind going back to standard coils until I eventually upgrade to the cool fire 4 plus but this is the first time it has overheated on me and it would be nice to know why!

Thanks in advance

 

[suprtrkr]

Depends on how hot it's getting. 35 watts is close to the limit of the CF4. Warm is not unexpected and no problem. Hot, as in hard to hold it, is a serious issue. The CF4 is at best marginal for subohm in the .5 range. I think it would probably be a bit happier up around .7ish.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Just because Innokin recommends 35-70w doesn't mean you must use 35 -70w or even 30w minimum.
Adjust power to what suits you best, vape to taste not to a number.
If you like the performance of .5Ω clapton heads anywhere in the CF4's power range whatever that number is, is where you should vape it.

Was the CF4 over heating as in the case getting hot or was it heating up due to heat transfer from the Apex, like just near the top of the device?

 

[zoiDman]

Hi,

Recently I have been vaping using the Cool Fire 4 Mod with the standard iSub tank and with iSub coils 0.5 ohm. I have had no problems vaping like this however today I decided to 'upgrade' to the APEX 5ml tank and the new Innokin clapton coils.

I learnt that with claption coils you must vape between 30-70 watts (I normally vape between 15-20) so I have just been trying the new tank and coil out on 35 watts. Within the first 5 hits I realised that the cool fire 4 mod was overheating. This has never happened before and it made me worried to carry on vaping.

Is vaping with the APEX 5 using clapton coils on 35 watts too much for my cool fire 4 mod?
Is it normal to overheat like this?

If so I dont mind going back to standard coils until I eventually upgrade to the cool fire 4 plus but this is the first time it has overheated on me and it would be nice to know why!

Thanks in advance

A Tank getting Hot can been seen is Normal in some cases. A Mod getting Hot is Never a Good Sign. And I would Not consider it normal for a Mod to Overheat like you described.

 

[MyMagicMist]

I agree with @Topwater Elvis. One tip off I often find is the word must. The one saying you must do whatever is offering their suggestion, albeit rather strongly. Understand it for what it is, an offer. You can say, "thanks, I'll do it my own way."

 

[Tol]

Like was said, Warm is expected, uncomfortable to hold or burning you could be a big problem.
I use an IPV D2 daily at 35-40 watts with a Velocity RDA.It gets a bit warm near the 510 connection (even with a Kepler Heat Sink sitting under my RDA) if I vape a lot in a single session. This is just heat transfer from my RDA, which is normal. I have used Atom Vapes gClapton coils in my SubTank Mini and the tank gets hot very fast compared to Kanger 0.5 coils with both of them running 35 watts. Claptons have a lot of metal compared to a normal coil, they can pump out some serious heat and hold onto it longer. That heat will transfer to your mod and even the drip tip on some toppers.

I guess the question is what do you mean by overheating? Just getting a bit warm? Shutting off on you?

 

[DCFC]

The whole cool fire mod was hot, not so much that I couldnt hold it but it was hot enough for me to post in here lol

I have had a few hits since and it has been ok, I think I might of just vaped too much in little time making it overheat. If it happens again I will just go back to normal coils and go back to clapton ones when I have upgraded to the cool fire 4 plus

 

[IMFire3605]

Two factors happening that you are becoming aware of

1) Amp draw, as you pull more amps out of the battery to supply watts, the battery heats up, this is transferred to the casing of the mod as well as conducted through the casing
2) Heat transfer - heat conduction from the coil transfers into the tank/atty base which then transfers and conducts down to the mod top and further down, basic heat physics at play here.

These 2 combined is what you are experiencing. But word of caution, even though a car can do 150mph plus, redlining and speeding that car toward those limits all the time will cause wear and tear and later issues of catostrophic failure, same applies to a vaporizer, push it to its battery limits every time, you will destroy the mod from the inside rapidly. So get a mod that will do twice what those clapton coils require to run, ie 35watts get a 70watt device, 80watts get a 150plus mod.

 

[vlodato]

Two factors happening that you are becoming aware of

1) Amp draw, as you pull more amps out of the battery to supply watts, the battery heats up, this is transferred to the casing of the mod as well as conducted through the casing
2) Heat transfer - heat conduction from the coil transfers into the tank/atty base which then transfers and conducts down to the mod top and further down, basic heat physics at play here.

These 2 combined is what you are experiencing. But word of caution, even though a car can do 150mph plus, redlining and speeding that car toward those limits all the time will cause wear and tear and later issues of catostrophic failure, same applies to a vaporizer, push it to its battery limits every time, you will destroy the mod from the inside rapidly. So get a mod that will do twice what those clapton coils require to run, ie 35watts get a 70watt device, 80watts get a 150plus mod.

Your not taking into account boost circuits. A evic vtc mini might say it's pulling 75w but it's not pulling 75w from a single 18650. When the boards are working at their upper limits it will heat up. Imo it's not that big of a deal. You may see a small reduction in life of the mod has an internal battery because of it not being user replaceable, but to say you should get a 80w mod to do 40w is way overkill. All modern boards from joytech, evolv, and YiHi have heat sensors that will shut the device down when it's over the limmit. Unless your device is constantly shutting down or your batteries are a bad brand I would not worry one bit.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

 

[IMFire3605]

Your not taking into account boost circuits. A evic vtc mini might say it's pulling 75w but it's not pulling 75w from a single 18650. When the boards are working at their upper limits it will heat up. Imo it's not that big of a deal. You may see a small reduction in life of the mod has an internal battery because of it not being user replaceable, but to say you should get a 80w mod to do 40w is way overkill. All modern boards from joytech, evolv, and YiHi have heat sensors that will shut the device down when it's over the limmit. Unless your device is constantly shutting down or your batteries are a bad brand I would not worry one bit.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

In a sense you are right and I am wrong, but also at the same time in a sense you are wrong and I am right. As with anything mechanical or electronic, wear and tear are always an issue, excessive or abusive use will compound upon that wear and tear more rapidly. Thus the analogy of a racing car above, to address that sort of wear and tear increases maintenance and care on such a vehicle, mods are not much different from that. Excessive abuse, this means higher wattage uses, if a regulated mod max output is 60watts at 18.75 amps, the battery we will say is a 20amp CDR battery, this excessive abuse will degrade not only the circuitry due to the heat being created across its paths but also the battery degrades rapidly in this abusive usage as well. So to get a coil to output what a user needs, if that output has to be in the range of 35 to 50watts, and example 60watt mod is put through this we'll say 70 maybe 90 times a day fired at that output, at 35watts there really isn't that much issue as the heat disipation is adequate for that application, at 50watts though you are reaching engineered maximums, the heat will cumulatively tear things up, that is 3 areas of heat generation.
1) Most dangerous the battery going near its maximum amp discharge rating, higher up near this limit the warmer the battery gets, without active cooling (remember most mods use passive cooling) the battery boils and simmers itself to death, changing its chemistry internally which decreases its maximum amp discharge rating cumulatively
2) Circuitry heats up, this can cause separation or breaking from laminated layers or circuit paths
3) Heat from the very hot atomizer coil down into attached parts

To alleviate 2 of those variables above, never discharging a battery at half its maximum (20amp max output 10amps, 30amp max output 15amps) will increase longevity of not only the battery but not generate much heat that will transfer to the circuit board and surrounding materials, and using a circuit board designed for twice the output you will be using decreases the heat generation it creates upon itself but again the surrounding materials, that or engineer and attach a better passive cooling system or going to an active cooling system like you see in a computer (active fan cooling a heatsink which cools the CPU/Memory/GPU or a liquid cooling system doing similarly the same), higher stress situations on a computer, example gaming or breaking an encryption algorithm you'll see massive cooling on such a unit.