P18 @6V with AW Life P04's

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I got my P18 second-hand but ordered 2x AW Life P04 batteries and a charger from Super T. I was wondering what O-rings everyone was using with this setup.

When I first got the P18 from the classified seller it came with 2 of the silver UltraFire LC 18650 2400 mAh batteries (1 is supposed to run 3.7V I think). It had a 1.00 O-ring outside near the base/endcap. This made it hard to screw off, but actually seemed necessary because these batteries are too long. So, I vaped at 3.7V fine.

David told me to remove this and put an O-ring inside. I tried these new Life P04 batteries today both with and without the ring inside and it wouldn't even fire. With the ring, the atty-side end cap wouldn't screw down the whole way. Without any rings the batteries rattled.

David was nice enough to send me more rings, including the smaller 0.75 ones, so I will try those but I put the batteries back to charge. The charger quickly became green when I first fired it up so I assumed the batteries were charged. I don't know if the red/green lights are just not reliable or what. I'm hoping that is all I need to do. How long do these take to charge?

As long as I figure out how to get 6V working I am pretty happy with my P18 though. The next mod I want is a VV one and I just saw that a VV box mod is coming after the shockwave, so I am going to hold out for that probably.
 

forcedfuel50

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If you want to try this before i can get to pics do this to bring it back to stock:

First remove the Oring they placed between the bottom cap and body. It doesn't belong there. It won't accomodate for longer batteries, only that can be achieved with Orings inside the tube and by adjusting the switch throw via washers under it.

Second, remove all Orings from the bottom of inside the tube. I use a pencil to push them out and insert the pencil from switch end to push them out the top.

Third take one .100 thick Oring i sent you and put it in the top of your unit and push it down in with a battery until it bottoms out. This Oring will work great with AW 18650 batteries with no rattle and should work with 2 AW Lifepos without rattle when the top is tightened down.

If they still rattle, remove the .100 thick Oring and insert two .070 thick Orings (i hope i sent you two) this will give you .140 thickness and will eliminate any rattle.

I recommend switch to AW 18650 batteries when vaping at 3.7 volts. They are consistent in length, superior quality and you won't have to constantly fiddle with orings.

To adjust switch throw length, add or remove washers under the brass switch post, which is slotted for ease of removal with a screwdriver.

On the batteries too, make sure the switch is set to 3.2 volts on the WF 188 charger.
 
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forcedfuel50

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When i send them out, i send them out with one washer under the center post. There are thick and thin washers in the parts bag. Did you get the parts bag with it? Did you try another atomizer just to make sure it didn't pop right away? Do you have a volt meter to check the batteries to see if they are charging? Since you said it was working at 3.7 volts and not at 6, it kind of narrows it down a bit.
 
First, the O-ring near the switch is gone. Putting a little thought to how this thing works made me realize (I think) why that shouldn't ever be there. I didn't even realize the part about washers though. It had 3 washers on when I got it.

I just knew it was being delivered with "18650 batteries", not which type. I actually just looked at the positive end of the one 18650 I hadn't used yet and it looks really messed up... The contact is off center and the white ring of paper or whatever is covering it is peeled back the whole way around. No clue what happened there anyhow...

I just vaped fine at 3.7v with the normal looking battery, 2 washers and the 1.00 ring down inside. I'm wondering if it is just a bad set of batteries. I tried two IKV 306 atties, primed them and nothing happened. I tried with o-ring and 1-3 washers so far.
 
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juicefreak

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do you have access to a voltmeter or similar tool to check the batteries voltage? it sounds like they are not charging. I think i have the same charger and it's a little bit funky to get going. I think Issac (iken) said the neg metal thing that the battery sits in needs to be pulled out more.

It took me forever to get my charger to go to red light and start charging. I tried different sequences (right/left first) etc and got it to work. I still haven't vaped them down enough to need a recharge. I'd check the neg battery end in the charger. It sounds like they never charged.

A friend with a P18 had trouble at first with two 3.0 batteries and he realized he needed to unscrew the brass post a little bit (in the button end) to make contact. it worked great after that.

david will help you straighten it out if none of the tips work.
 
I got the part bag but it is just the 1.00 ring and 2x 0.70 rings. The 3 washers that came with it look to be about 1mm thick.

I just now realized that when I was putting a 1.00 ring inside the tube, there was already one in there, didn't see it until I held it in the light right. I can't get it out easily... guess I could come up with some way but I don't think that is the problem. The battery compartment is fitting properly again just using the one o-ring.

I'm thinking it is batteries or charger because there are only so many combinations of ring/washer/atty I can try and nothing seems to work. I just put my 18650's on the charger and both go to green pretty quickly though one should be at least half drained. I can try again tomorrow. My dad or a neighbor might have a voltmeter. I'll see what I can do.
 

vapn

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A volt meter should tell you what is happening. Set it on the 20 DCV setting and use the positive lead to the center post on the atty connection and the negative lead to the body of the device then push the button with batteries you should show the voltage of the battery. Test the battery first so you know for sure what the voltage should read at the atty connection. If you are getting the same voltage there then it might be the atty not screwed down far enough and not making contact. I know they can be a little tight when new. Keep at it, you have the best PV made and like you said, you can only try so many different combinations of washers and orings. Two things to keep in mind, if the battery cap screws on easily all the way down then you are probably not making contact with the battery, if the button pushes all the way in then you are probably not making contact with the battery. It's that simple. Hope you get it working.
 
Maybe the 1.00 ring needs to come out and try 2x 0.700 I just don't know what I have to even get it out offhand, didn't even know it was there for several days. When I do have two rings in I can get it to close barely, but then it is probably too far from the switch. I'm just confused about this charger. I don't like it if I can't tell when it is done.
 

Vaporologist

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To take the ring out, simply take a paper clip and bend it at the very tip (3-5 mm). It's easier to work from the bottom so unscrew the switch and press the bent part of the paper clip between the ring and the inside lip of the P18 tube and just push up. You won't be able to see the o-ring when looking from the bottom but you will feel it...

I've messed with all possible configurations and I find that using just one 1.00 ring works the best with my AW18650 which I use rarely as well as with my AW LiFePO4s stacked which I use most of the time. When using two stacked batteries for 6V vaping, I use a sleeve made of two business cards cut the length of the two batteries inside the tube. That pretty much stops any rattling...
 

forcedfuel50

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I sense your frustration, (understandably so) and since it's a used unit you purchased, probably the easiest and best thing to do would be to have me look over it, inspect it and return it to like new, as shipped condition. When i send out a new unit, it is set up to accept one AW 18650 or two Lifepo4's, rarely does the end user need to adjust anything. If you want to return it to stock, one .100 oring in the bottom of the battery chamber and one washer under the brass switch contact.

David
 

jerseydevil

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Jun 7, 2010
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Aprioristic, sorry you're having trouble with the unit. The ultrafire 18650 are very long compared to some of the other brands, the messed up center post looks awful, (their quality control leaves something to be desired) but functions without problem. I found the best setup for me was with the thinner o-ring inside, (to accommodate the length of the batts, not have them rattle, and allow the top cap to screw on fully) and no washers on the switch (to increase button throw). I had the o-ring on the switch to show you another option (longest possible button throw since I keep my mods in my pocket and am very active at work) and though it doesn't belong there, the unit works none the less. I also included extra washers to increase your button throw options. I would suggest some noalax occasionally on the connections for optimal performance, I can send you some if you like. I'll be subscribing to make sure you're happy with the sale, and feel free to contact me anytime. I would even refund your money if you are not happy with the transaction.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
Both of you guys are so nice. Everything is fine now, I just didn't take the time to mess around with anything until tonight. The charger started working fine, i.e. staying red for a long time and recharging... though somehow it was going right to green the first day when the 18650 should have been weak.

I guess I was just being dumb not even realizing another o-ring was down in there for so long, then not just bending a paperclip and getting it out. When I did, I realized it was a .700 and the 2x LifeP04 then got my 306 atties firing and everything fits perfect with a 1.00 - It's totally back to stock.

jersey, you don't have to send me noalox, done plenty and I will get around to giving you positive feedback sometime soon. I'll get noalox next time I am out and I know David has a video on YT somewhere about taking care of the device. I was curious though since I saw some closed thread in here about the silver conductive goop used on CPUs. I have an old bottle of that around somewhere, should I do anything with it?
 

dspin

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The most important part you should have is a meter. You must be able to test your batts before using and to test your attys. On another note, isn't David just the best. He is so helpful and your P18 is second to none!!!!!!!!!



Both of you guys are so nice. Everything is fine now, I just didn't take the time to mess around with anything until tonight. The charger started working fine, i.e. staying red for a long time and recharging... though somehow it was going right to green the first day when the 18650 should have been weak.

I guess I was just being dumb not even realizing another o-ring was down in there for so long, then not just bending a paperclip and getting it out. When I did, I realized it was a .700 and the 2x LifeP04 then got my 306 atties firing and everything fits perfect with a 1.00 - It's totally back to stock.

jersey, you don't have to send me noalox, done plenty and I will get around to giving you positive feedback sometime soon. I'll get noalox next time I am out and I know David has a video on YT somewhere about taking care of the device. I was curious though since I saw some closed thread in here about the silver conductive goop used on CPUs. I have an old bottle of that around somewhere, should I do anything with it?
 

forcedfuel50

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Both of you guys are so nice. Everything is fine now, I just didn't take the time to mess around with anything until tonight. The charger started working fine, i.e. staying red for a long time and recharging... though somehow it was going right to green the first day when the 18650 should have been weak.

I guess I was just being dumb not even realizing another o-ring was down in there for so long, then not just bending a paperclip and getting it out. When I did, I realized it was a .700 and the 2x LifeP04 then got my 306 atties firing and everything fits perfect with a 1.00 - It's totally back to stock.

jersey, you don't have to send me noalox, done plenty and I will get around to giving you positive feedback sometime soon. I'll get noalox next time I am out and I know David has a video on YT somewhere about taking care of the device. I was curious though since I saw some closed thread in here about the silver conductive goop used on CPUs. I have an old bottle of that around somewhere, should I do anything with it?

Nowadays, all i recommend on the Precise is Noalox. Put a dab on all brass contact points and threads and i also recommend putting a dap up on the top cap on the atomizer threads and brass contact point.

Good to hear you have your Precise purring again!
 
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