AAAHHHH! The suspense is killing me! The V3 is almost here!
8:30 am
On FedEx vehicle for delivery
8:30 am
On FedEx vehicle for delivery
Penelope V3
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Well that was a learning experience! Here's a few things I learned:
1) The washer that someone mentioned earlier is important! I took apart the Penelope to put all the bits through the ultrasonic cleaner, and forgot to put back the flat washer that buffers the bottom pin from the base. Everything kept spinning after I put it together again. Thanks to whomever it was that mentioned the washer here!
2) The coil fits better if the leads are wrapped around the back of the thumb screws. For the life of me I could not get the coil to sit low enough until I put the bit back in the coil, and let it rest in the Penelope base, and THEN connect the coil wrapped around the back of the screws. Thanks to all who posted screenshots of their microcoils!
3) I tried running the Penelope with a 1.2 ohm coil and cotton wick down around 7 watts, but the dna 30 in the Hana no likey. It would fire, but I noticed the ohms was blinking, so I was basically running sans protection. Boosted it up to 11 watts, and presto, vapes like a dream.
4) I found there's a 2-3 coil learning curve. Nice to have an entirely new setup and a break from my drippers... although I was cursing with each mess up, the vape upon completing the third re-done coil was awesome.
Again, thanks to all for the info posted here, especially those kind enough to post pics of their coils. It helped a LOT!
1) The washer that someone mentioned earlier is important! I took apart the Penelope to put all the bits through the ultrasonic cleaner, and forgot to put back the flat washer that buffers the bottom pin from the base. Everything kept spinning after I put it together again. Thanks to whomever it was that mentioned the washer here!
2) The coil fits better if the leads are wrapped around the back of the thumb screws. For the life of me I could not get the coil to sit low enough until I put the bit back in the coil, and let it rest in the Penelope base, and THEN connect the coil wrapped around the back of the screws. Thanks to all who posted screenshots of their microcoils!
3) I tried running the Penelope with a 1.2 ohm coil and cotton wick down around 7 watts, but the dna 30 in the Hana no likey. It would fire, but I noticed the ohms was blinking, so I was basically running sans protection. Boosted it up to 11 watts, and presto, vapes like a dream.
4) I found there's a 2-3 coil learning curve. Nice to have an entirely new setup and a break from my drippers... although I was cursing with each mess up, the vape upon completing the third re-done coil was awesome.
Again, thanks to all for the info posted here, especially those kind enough to post pics of their coils. It helped a LOT!
What is the reasoning for NOT torching wire before wrapping/making coils? I have only read that in this thread. The wire will eventually get as hot once fired. Someone said cleaning the wire with alcohol but not torching.
Someone pls explain to me.
Someone pls explain to me.
I don't torch before the coil, but I am using 28 gauge. I used to torch 30 and 32 gauge so the wire was easier to work with. I find with 28 you don't need to torch it to build the coils as it's so malleable and forgiving. At 10 wraps the coil fits nicely in between the posts.
Sent from my Xperia Z1
Sent from my Xperia Z1
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I can't find the exact post, but if I remeber correctly, imeo was saying that it was changing the metal structure, accelerating oxydation process, and generating some nasty fumes ... that being said, whatever the scientific reason, it would be great to have more information about this, and if it's true, the all community should be warned since torching is common practice now.
Imeo, save some lifes, share your knowledge and sources on that topic
(I secretly hope you're wrong on that one
)Unfortunately I am not wrong at all monk. Burning metals is one of the most dangerous things you can do.
You described all the health hazards in your above post
You described all the health hazards in your above post
You've said this before Imeo and I believe you but... is there any more info on this to be found somewhere? This is a pretty important subject as glowing wire is common practice among vapers aound the globe. Please?...
Unfortunately, I don't think your assumptions are grounded in science, but more in gut.
We are not getting anywhere close to the temps that would make Kanthal hazardous.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...id_some_research_on_the_safety_of_heating_a1/
The links within the post make for some dry, very technical reading but it should put your mind at ease.
We are not getting anywhere close to the temps that would make Kanthal hazardous.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...id_some_research_on_the_safety_of_heating_a1/
The links within the post make for some dry, very technical reading but it should put your mind at ease.
I am not a modder that came from nowhere Chief, I am a mechanical engineer. I am telling you that so you can understand that I never say things just because I think that they are right. If I say something, its always based on science.
But maybe you didnt understand well my post about wires. I was talking about burning wires, or to say it better make them red hot by your mod (dry burn) or a torch to make a microcoil.
A metal gets red when you apply temperature on it. The fatter the metal, the more difficult to get red hot. But on ecigs we are talking about very thin wires that get red hot very easy. The first result is that these wires get oxidised. So it would be better to search about oxides of metals and see what they can do to your lungs and your body in general.
Also, the link you posted is just a user's opinion and at the same time it shows that he hasnt understand the problem. If you really want to search about metals and their oxides, you have to check scientific sites to my humble opinion.
But maybe you didnt understand well my post about wires. I was talking about burning wires, or to say it better make them red hot by your mod (dry burn) or a torch to make a microcoil.
A metal gets red when you apply temperature on it. The fatter the metal, the more difficult to get red hot. But on ecigs we are talking about very thin wires that get red hot very easy. The first result is that these wires get oxidised. So it would be better to search about oxides of metals and see what they can do to your lungs and your body in general.
Also, the link you posted is just a user's opinion and at the same time it shows that he hasnt understand the problem. If you really want to search about metals and their oxides, you have to check scientific sites to my humble opinion.
And also dont forget the oxidation that some people that vape mesh have to do an SS thin metal to make it non conductive. Maybe now you can see what is going on.
As for the metal structure, maybe you know that making a metal glow red and then put it on water or oil, you can make its surface harder and also make it lose its physical elasticity. Those are big changes on its structure with unknown results on vaping. I am telling you these things because I remember them from university. If I search more I may find more info.
And of course not all metals or alloys are stable in a specific temperature. For example, SS was never made to be red hot for any application. If your make red hot your can you will damage it and you will thow it away and you will never cook there.
Also if you want to put carbon on a steel you have to raise the temperature a lot and that makes steel change its structure to accept carbon.
As for the metal structure, maybe you know that making a metal glow red and then put it on water or oil, you can make its surface harder and also make it lose its physical elasticity. Those are big changes on its structure with unknown results on vaping. I am telling you these things because I remember them from university. If I search more I may find more info.
And of course not all metals or alloys are stable in a specific temperature. For example, SS was never made to be red hot for any application. If your make red hot your can you will damage it and you will thow it away and you will never cook there.
Also if you want to put carbon on a steel you have to raise the temperature a lot and that makes steel change its structure to accept carbon.
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The thing about torching the wire and I read the link posted above. The wire elements change their chemistry at around 3000 degrees according to the link. When you torch the wire the chemistry changes. Even we are not heating the wire that hot to vape. But if you torched the wire to that hot beforehand the chemistry and dangerous chemicals are still there when you vape. IMO the wire works and vapes better without torching. I know because I've tried.
I have a degree in Electrical Engineering, doesn't mean I can't learn. No one uses a torch on their wires that produces 3000 degrees. Most of us that do have a torch might hit 2000 degrees F... 1900 degrees C less than the toxic temp. If torching was so toxic, we would have mass metal sickness across the globe, which we don't. We're talking about 250-300 degrees F when using our coils in a Penelope for example, and less than 1090 degrees C when torched. Neither of which will force the Kanthal to leech chromium. If you have some actual peer reviewed studies proving the toxicity of Kanthal at temps we can readily produce in the home, I would love to see it. Otherwise, we'll agree to disagree.
I understand that oxides formed on Kanthal and NiChrome wire when heated red hot can be dangerous for your health. But do we - and how do we - know that these oxides come off the wire and into our lungs when vaping at 170 - 200 degrees C?
ChiefAllDay, I think the all point of Imeo is to say that the safety provided by the high temperature resistance of kanthal are not applicable to the oxidized layer that covers the intact kanthal. The only question is to know if this oxidized layer, made of several chimical ingredients (that are not part of pure kanthal), could be hazardous at 170-200 degrees C ... maybe yes, maybe no
Without a scientific answer to this question, some might want to be on the safe side by vaping non-oxidized kanthal.
I personaly feel like moving on the safe side from now on ... torching 28 GA kanthal is useless from micro-coil since it's not that elastic at that gauge, and re-doing a coil when it starts looking uggly is ok for me ... I use to enjoy the convenience of dry burn and perfectly shapped micro-coil, but there's no real difference on the vape so ... better be safe imho
Without a scientific answer to this question, some might want to be on the safe side by vaping non-oxidized kanthal.
I personaly feel like moving on the safe side from now on ... torching 28 GA kanthal is useless from micro-coil since it's not that elastic at that gauge, and re-doing a coil when it starts looking uggly is ok for me ... I use to enjoy the convenience of dry burn and perfectly shapped micro-coil, but there's no real difference on the vape so ... better be safe imho
By the way you don't need to torch your microcoil.
Wrap it good and tight using a drill bit or a toothpick. Put it on your atomiser. Fire a few seconds until it barely glows. Squeeze a couple of times with pliers.
You're good to go.
Wrap it good and tight using a drill bit or a toothpick. Put it on your atomiser. Fire a few seconds until it barely glows. Squeeze a couple of times with pliers.
You're good to go.
Ok I'm going to continue to vape my ... off with my new Penelope V3 while you guys duke it out. Oh video is done and its uploading.
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